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HOW TO 

COOK, CARVE AND EAT; 

<i^. XC 3^ c/^- 

WHOLESOME FOOD, 

AND 

HOW TO PREPARE IT FOR THE TABLE. 

BEING A COMPLETE 

TREATISE ON THE ART OF COOKING EVERY VARIETY OP FOOD IN 

COMMON USE IN A PALATABLE AND DIGESTIBLE 

MANNER AT A REASONABLE COST. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED 

% (Sljaptcr 011 tijc %xi of Ciutiitg, 



TWO HUNDRED OF THE MOST VALUABLE AND POPULAR 
RECEIPTS KNOWN FOR DOMESTIC PURPOSES. 

THE WHOLE 

fORMING A mSTOllY OF DOMESTIC KNOWLEDGE AND USEFUL ECONOMY, 



By W. a. HEKDERSOK. 

lUustratcd tirith Steel Enr):rai;in^8.; 



NEW YORK: 
LEAVITT & ALLEN BRO'S, PUBLISHERS, 

No. 8 HOWARD STREET. 



A^ 



^^^ 



^•^ 



Entered acccrdiui,' to Act of Coii;,'ress, in thf year ISTO, hy 

Leavitt & Allen Bro"s, 

In the Clerk's Ofilce of the District Court of the United States for the Southern 

District of New York. 



7 

ADVERTISEMENT. 



As tiicre is scarce an individual who is not a^vare 
of the comfort resulting from a regUiar and cleanly 
meal, it may appear to many labour lost, to write a 
preface to a work which is designed to leach w\ how 
to prepare such a repast. 

But, in the daily progress of life, we may often dis- 
cover an amiable and accomplished woman, who pos- 
sesses a general knowledge, with the exception ol 
domestic cookery, whith, I must.be suffered to remark, 
is a subject of infinitely gi-eater importance to her tb^r: 
superficial acquirements, whether we consider her a^ 
a daughter, wife, or mother. Indeed, she can never 
be properly the mistress of a family, imless she makes 
iierself acquainted with its interior economy. 

Exclusive of the necessity of such knowledge, it is 
sMrprising, how much such a woman, possessed of it 
may save in the yearly expenditure of her fawIL', 
\\ Inch, in the present times, is an object of materia] 
importance to all persons of moderate incomes, for 
s\ bom this book is peculiarly adaptea, combining eco- 
aomy and /gentility in its receipts and dhections. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS 



MANAGEMENT OF A FAMILY, 



All persons should endeavour to discharge the duties of the sta. 
.on they may fill, so as to claim the respect of their compeers ; and 
afford a beneficial example to the younger branches of society : to 
such as are desirous of respect, this mode of conduct is a matter of 
necessity, the neglect of which no excuse can extenuate. 

The accomplishments proper for the female character, are not so 
seriously attended to as formerly, when all persons, whatever might 
be their mnk, were studious to render themselves useful. Yet do- 
mestic occupations should never for one moment be neglected, as 
such neglect must produce misery, and may, perhaps, ultimately ter- 
minate in ruin. At no very distant period, ladies knew but little be- 
yond their own family concerns ; now, alas ! there are few things 
of which they know so little. Viewed either way, this is running into 
extremes, which should be carefully avoided, because elegant ac- 
quirements may, with some little care, be easily united with useful 
knowledge, and without which they become ridiculous. That this 
may be done, we have numerous examples, even in the most ele- 
vated ranks of society, in which the mistress of a family, possessed of 
every possible feminine accomplishment, may be frequently seen 
superintending her family arrangements, mvestigating her accounts, 
instructing her servants, and keeping within the bounds of her hus- 
band's income ; by such means, reflecting credit on him, as well as 
herself. 

If such minute attention to domestic concerns reflects honour upon 
females of elevated rank, at the same time that it is useful to them, 
how much more therefore must it be beneficial to such as possess 
contracted incomes, and who can only support an elegant, nay even a 
neat appearance, by exertmg the most rigid economy, and attentive- 
ly directing their efforts to the proper management of their domestic 
affairs. 

Females should be early taught to prefer the society of their homes, 
to engage themselves in domestic duties, and to avoid every species 
of idle vanity, to which thousands of them owe their ruin ; and, above 
ail thmgs, to consider their parents as their best friends, who are ia- 
tc'^^ted only in their welfare ; th&F; indeed we might hope to see alJ 



6 DIRECTIONS FOR 

as it should bo, uid to have daily evidence of real comfort and lap- 
piness. Were females thus instructed, they would soon leai.i to 
discriminate between the solid enjoyments of domestic peace, and 
he fleeting phantoms of delusive pleasure. 

It is natural to imagine, that when a female marries, she docs sa 
?)m a principal of love. It must surely, therefore, be admitted, that 
her duties then become still more seriously important, because hci 
station is more responsible than it previously was. She will then 
have to superintend the affairs of the man with whose destiny she has 
united her own ; the domestic part of which falls particularly within 
the sphere of her management, and the duties of which she oughl 
actively to execute, and at the same time to support as neat and 
elegant an appearance as is consistent with prudent economy ; with- 
out twhich even princely fortunes must fail ; in which case, her hus- 
band will soon discover her merits, and place a proper Value on tha 
treasure he possesses. 

A person who desires to please, will seldom fail to do so. This 
conviction should of itself be sufRcient to stimulate to the attempt, 
as domestic knowledge in a female is of more real importance than 
vain acquirements, not that accomplishments, when properly direct- 
ed, are incompatible with domestic duties ; on the contrary, Ihcj 
become intimately combined with them, because they add to the ra- 
tional enjoyments of that home which should ever be the centre ol 
attraction to the husband, to her children, and others connected with 
it ; and this is what an ignorant, unsocial, and unaccomplished wotnan 
can never render it. It is the abuse of things from which alone 
mischief can originate, not from the temperate use of them. 

The domestic arrangements of a family belonging entirely to the 
female, the table, of course, becomes entitled to no small share ol 
her attention in respect to its expenditure, appearance, and general 
supplies. 

Taste and judgment are highly requisite in this department, be- 
cause the credit of keeping a good and respectable table depends 
not (as of old) on the vast quantity of articles with which it is cover- 
ed, but the neatness, propriety, and cleanliness, in which the whole ia 
served up, which alone can confer real credit on her Mho directs the 
prepaa-atioii. 

Dinner parties are very expensive, and certainly fall very heavy on 
persons whose incomes are moderate ; such persons, therefore, 
sh!»uld not support a custom productive of unpleasant consequences, 
by lending it the sanction of their exaniple. But if it is found requi- 
site occasionally to give dinner.^, it should be done in a liberal and 
genteel manner, otherwise it is far better to decline it altogethei 



DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT. 7 

Dinners are not so sumptuous now as they formerly were, which 
may be accounted for from the increased price of provisions ; in con- 
sequence of which, persons who possess a moderate property are 
compelled to be as economical as possible, in order to support that 
genteel appearance necessary for the promotion of comfort. 

Yet a certain degree of caution is requisite in providing even a 
family dinner, as a casual visiter may unexpectedly enter, whose 
company cannot be avoided, and every man feels his consequence 
hurt, should such a visiter chance to drop in to a dinner not suffi- 
ciently good or abundant ; a table should therefore be furnished 
according to the income and rank of its master ; thus I would not 
have a tradesman emulate the expenditure and appearance of a noble, 
nor a noble of royalty. A good plain dinner, of which there should 
be sufficient, with clean linen and decent attendance, will obviate 
every difficulty ; and the entrance of an unexpected visiter will occa- 
sion no additional trouble, and all uneasy sensations on account of 
the appearance of the dinner, will be banished from the breasts of 
the master and mistress, by which harmony and enjoyment will of 
course ensue. 

This mode of providing a table may be extended to every class of 
society, where each individual should have a table provided according 
to the fortune which must pay for it, and such an arrangement will 
meet with the respect and approbation of all serious persons. 

Carving also, though seldom attended to, merits attention ; for, 
without a due knowledge of it, the honours of a table cannot be per- 
formed with propriety, or without considerable pain. It also makes . 
a great difference in the daily consumption of a family. I therefore 
reconnnend my readers to study this useful branch of domestic 
knowledge, which can be attained only by constant practice, as writ- 
ten instructions can merely point out the way which practice must 
render perfect, and without which no person can preside with honour 
at the head of a table. 

Where there are young persons in a family, it would greatly im- 
prove them, were they made to take the head of the table, under the 
superintendence of their parents, by whose salutary directions they 
would soon discharge the duty thus thrown upon them with equal 
ease and grace, and iearn more in one month's practical employment, 
than they would in twelve months' observation. This would also 
prepare them to discharge their duties in a proper manner, when they 
become mistresses themselves. For my own part, I can imagine 
nothing more disagreeable than to behold a person at the head of a 
well-furnished table, presiding only to haggle and spoil the finest 
artiiles of provision, by which great waste is occasioned, and, we 
1* 



8 DIRECTIOINS FOR 

ra«y add, some disgust, because many delicate persons, when help- 
ed in a cluiusy nmnner, al)S(jlutcly loullic the provisions (howevei 
good) thus set hcfoio ilieni. 

Every lady who fills the situation of a mistress ol' a famijy, will, 1 
ain ci.nlident, upon mature reflection, be convinced, that much do- 
peiids uii the vigilance of her conduct, as far as respects good ma- 
nagement and domestic economy ; the most trifling events should 
claim her notice, lor the keen eye of a superior can alone resiram 
servants and dependants within proper bounds, and prevent that 
waste which would othervvise ensue. This is a line of conduct 
which the present price of every article of life renders still more im- 
perative. No female should ever harbour a moment's doubt re- 
specting her power to conduct and manage a family, even if previous- 
ly unused to it, as many of her senior friends will freely give her 
tlieir advice, and a short practical experience will soon render hor 
able to estimate the host mode of managemciit, and also teach her 
how to keep her family expenditure agreeable to her income, and 
how to lay out her money to thy greatest advantage. To execute 
this in a proper manner, a strict account of the yearly income set 
apart for domestic expenses, should be carefully taken ; and that it 
may not be ignorantly exceeded, a minute account of the daily 
expenditure should be invariably made out, by which a regular habit 
of prudent economy will be obtained; and should the expenses of 
one week then exceed their bounds, it must be made u[) by retrench- 
ing on those of the following weeks. For where persons depend for 
their support and comfort on the skill and active exertions of a father, 
much also depends on the mother, who, should she be a bad ma- 
nager, will soon undo all that her husband his done ; but should slvo 
understand her duties, prosperity will smdc upon the family, and 
perhaps fortune may be ultimately secured. 

To prevent useless trouble in the household accounts, a Family 
Book-keeper should be purchased, when the sums laid out will only 
require to be noted down, as the various articles are printed, with a 
column for every day in the year, by which means the exact expen- 
diture is always ascertained for any period in a few minutes. 

Persons who possess the means, should always pay for every 
article in ready money, the benefit of which they will very soon ex- 
perience ; and tradesmen will be careful to supply such va.'iable 
customers with the best of their goods. They are also willing to 
Bell their goods cheaper for money than on credit, consequently, by 
properly attending to this circumstance, a considerable saving may 
be made in tlic course of a year. I would also reconmiend my rea- 
ders never to ch:uige their trades-people without some serious cause 



DOMESTIC MANAGEMENT. 9 

of offence, as, after dealing some lime with a tradesman, he consi- 
ders you a valuable customer, obeys your orders with punctual 
attention, and invariably serves you with the best goods he can 
procure, with the view of securing your future support, and a recom- 
mendation of his shop to your friends. 

On the contrary, those tradesmen who give long credit, are obli- 
ged to charge a proportional interest, v^ithout which they could not 
carry on their business ; and it is this circumstance which contributes 
iii no small degree to keep up the high price of every necessary of 
life. You will therefore easily perceive that, by having long creditj 
you will lose money, respect, and comfort. 

A person of moderate income should make every purchase herself, 
and to do this well, she should make herself acquainted with the best 
articles, and the yelaiive value of each, by which she will occasion- 
ally make her pound o;o as far as many less active and experienced 
persons would two. Although 1 do not intend by the above to 
advocate the cause of bargains, which generally in the end prove 
losses ; on the contrary I recommend whatever may be purchased tr. 
be of the best quality, which, you may rely on it, will go farthest 
Stated rules cannot be fully given, as rank, fortune, and habit, must 
determine many points ; however, attentive inspection can be no 
disgrace even to the most elevated or wealthy. One great advantage 
resulting from this close attention is, that servants will soon discover 
that such a mistress must not be trifled with, and will consequently 
res{)ect, fear, and serve her, better than they otherwise would do. 

Waste of every description should be cautiously avoided; nothing 
can be more criminal, when we reflect that there are thousands of our 
fellow-creatures suffering from want, while, by the bounty of Pro- 
vidence, we have the full enjoyment of every good thing. Waste- 
fulness, therefore, should never be tolerated in any of the necessaries 
of life. Every respectable family, by proper attention, may do much 
good to their poor neighbours, without injury to themselves, by 
properly preparing the offal of their houses, and distributing it to such 
as are in want; this would be affording much actual relief at the 
expense of little more than trouble. 

Regularity should be punctually observed in all families, as by 
keeping good hours much time is gained. By breakfasting early the 
servants have a fair day before them ; and they should, when coi> 
venient, be suffered to retire to rest at an early hour, by which means 
they will not be late on the following morning. 

This method will also render less servants necessary. I am sen- 
sible that many of my fair readers may imagine this to be of little 
coasequence, but Icana.ourc them that they will ultimatelv find, 

1V# 1 u 



10 DIRECTIONS FOR, &c. 

that regular and early hours in a family is of serious importanco to 
every branch of it, as far as relates to comfort, and it should be 
remembered that servants have feelings equally with ourselves. 

It is prudent and economical to have a sufficient quantity of hoise- 
h<»ld articles and culinary utensils. The stock should invariably be 
w(!ll kept up, and to do this effectually, requires some consideration. 
Tlie best, and indeed only regular method of doing this, is to keep 
a ••oriect account of these, as well as different articles of household 
fii-jMture, linen, plate, china, &c. &c. and the various articles should 
b. occasionally examined, and every article replaced as soon as 
broken. 

Much time will also be saved, if every article is kept in its proper 
place, clean ; and remember every thing should be mended the 
Ml )ment it is injured, and new applied to any oilier use than that for 
■d'hich il zoas originalhj designed, by which mode of management 
any thing will last much longer than it otherwise would do. 

What an active person may perform in the course of one year by 
a punctual attendance to regular hours, and a persevering industry, 
would, if calculated, astonish a common observer by its extent and 
utility. In respect to servants, a mistress should be extremely care- 
ful whom she hires, and be particular in procuring a good charscter 
from the persons with whom they have previously resided. It is also 
the solemn duty of a mistress, to be just in giving a character to 
such servants as leave her, because a servant's whole dependance 
rests entirely on the possession of a good character ; destitute of 
which, inevitable ruin must follow. This is a duty, the breach of 
which nothing can extenuate ; for by giving an undeserved bad 
.:haracter to a good servant, through caprice, eternal infamy must be 
reflected on the person who does so. Faithful, honest servants 
should be treated with respect and kindness, and when an occasion 
offers, they should be duly rewarded, which will create emulation in 
others ; but never more kept than sufficient. 

Should you deal on credit, a book should be kept, in wlxich every 
Kiticle, with its weight and price, should be inserted the instant it is 
received, which will prevent imposition, and also serve as a reference. 
In a %vell rsgulated family, every article should be kept in con- 
btant readiness, such as broken sugar, pounded spices, &c. by which 
rnucli trouble will be prevented when such articles are wanted for 
immediate use. Serva4:ts should also be required to pay the same 
attention in waiting on the family, when alone, as they do when there 
IS company : this will soon become a regular habit, and visiters will 
(x.casion but little additional trouble, while every thing will appear to 
go on smoothly. 



HOW TO COOK. 



CHAPTER I. 

SOUPS and BROTHS. 

As a proper mode is the first and most judicious 
step that can be taken in the display of any subject, 
so we shall commence our work with a particular de- 
scription of the manner of making aU Idnds of Soups 
and Broths, those articles in the ^drt of Cookery being, 
at most entertainments, whether of a pubhc or private 
nature, first brought upon the table. 

To acquire reputation, and give satisfaction to those 
for wliom any kind of provision is dressed, the first 
grand consideration of the cook should be a particu- 
lar attachment to cleanliness, and this more immedi- 
ately in the proper care of all vessels wherein such 
provision is to be dressed. They must be kept pro- 
perly tinned, and, as soon as possible after being used, 
weU cleaned, and placed, with then* covers on, in 
some situation adapted for the purpose. Previous lo 
their being again used, examine them very strictly, 
and be careful that they are totally free from any kind 
of grease, or any particles of sand, wMch will be too 
apt to secrete themselves in unobserved cavities of the 
vessels. To avoid this, rub the palm of your hand 
all round, with the ends of your fingers in the cavities, 
and if any sand is left, it will stick to the flesh, which 
will naturally draw it out. After tliis, wipe it all 
roiuid with a clean cloth, and you may be pretty well 
satisfied it is thoro iglily cleansed for use. The pains 



12 SOUPS. 

you have taken in this first degree of care will be am- 
ply repaid by the articles you cook being, if properly 
managed according to the rules here laid down, brought 
to table in the highest state of perfection. 

As a necessary prelude to the making of soups and 
l)rolhs, we shall introduce a few general observations ; 
which we recommend as deserving the particular 
notice and attention of the cook. 

AViien yo^i make any kinds of sou])s, more especi- 
ally portable, vermicelli, or brown gravy soup, or, 
indeed, any other that hath roots or herbs in it, always 
observe to lay the meat at the bottom of yom* pan, 
with a good lump of butter. Cut the herbs and roots 
small, lay them over the meat, cover it close, and set 
it over a slow fire : this will draw all the virtue out of 
the roots or herbs, turn it to a good gravy, and give 
the soup a different flavour from wiiat it would have 
on putting the water in at first. As soon as you find 
the gravy is nearly dried up, then fill the saucepan 
with water, and when it begins to boil skim off the fat, 
and pursue the directions given for the soup intended 
to be made. In making peas soup observe, that if 
they are old, yon must use soft water; but if green, 
hard or spring water, as it will greatly contribute to 
the preservation of their colour. One principal thing 
to be observed in making all kinds of soup is, that no 
one ingredient is more powerful in the taste than an- 
other, but that all are as nearly as possible equal, and 
that the soup be relished in proportion to the purpose 
for which it is designed. 

Vermicelli Soup. 

Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from 
each of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the 
size of walnuts, and mix them together, with five or 
six thin .slices of lean ham. Put into the bottom ot 
your pan about four ounces of butter, and then your 
meat; to which add three or four blades of mace, two 
or tliree carrots, two parsnips, two lai'ge onions, with 
a clove stuck on both side^ of pach, cut in four or five 



SOUPS. 13 

heads of celery washed clean, a bunch of SAveet herbs, 
eight or len morels, and an anchovy. When yout 
articles are thus prepared and mixed together in the 
pan, cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire, 
without any water, till the gravy is drawn out of the 
meat. When this is done, pour it out into a pot or 
large basin: then let the meat brown, (taking care that 
it does not burn,) and put into the saucepan four quarts 
of water. Let the whole boil gently till it is wasted 
to three pints, then strain it, and mix with it tlie hrsi 
gravy drawn from the meat. Set it on the fire, and 
add two ounces of vermicelli, a nice head of celery cul 
small, chyan pepper and salt to your taste, and let the 
whole boil about six minutes. Lay a small French 
roll in the soup dish, pour the soup upon it, strcAv 
some of the vermicelli on the surface, and then serve 
it to table. 

Vf.rmicelli Soup White. 
Wash yoiu* vermicelli in boiling water, and leave 
it to drain on a sieve that it may not lump : boil it with 
isome good gravy soup; and the moment before serving 
it up, put in a cullis a-la-reiiie, or the yolks of some 
eggs beat up with cream or milk. It must not boil 
after the eggs are in, or else it will cm'dle. 

Soup a-la-Reine. 
Take a knuckle of veal, and three or four pounds 
of lean beef, to which put in six quarts of water, with 
a little salt. When it boils take off the scum quite 
clean, then put in six large onions, two carrots, a head 
or two of celery, a parsnip, one leek, and a little thyme. 
Let the whole stew together till the meat is quite 
boiled doA^m, then strain it through a hair sieve, and 
a^ter it has stood about half an hour, skim it well, and 
clear it off gently from the settlings into a clean pan. 
Boil half a pint of cream, and pour it on the criunb of 
a small loaf till the whole is soaked in. Take half a 
pound of almonds, blanch and beat them as fine as 
possible, putting in now and then a little cream to pre- 
vent them from oiling. Then take the yolks of six 



1-1 SOUPS. 

Iiarcl eggs, o<*,at them with a loaf soaked in the cream, 
and mix the whole together. Put your brcth in again 
into the saucepan, and when hot pom' it to your al- 
monds. Strain it througli a fine hah sieve, rubbing it 
with a spoon till all the virtue and flavour are extracted. 
Put the Avhole into the saucepan, adding a little more 
cream to make it wh'te. Set it over the fire, keep 
stirring it till it boils, and skim ofT the froth as it rises. 
In the meantime soak the tops of two Fjench rolls in 
melted butter in a stew-pan till they are crisp, but not 
brown ; then take them out of the butter, and lay them 
in a plate before the fire. After remaining there a short 
time put them at the bottom of the tureen, pouring to 
them a small quantity of the soup. When yoin* soup 
has been thoroughly skimmed from froth, 2nd is just 
ready to boil, then take it off, pom it into the tureen, 
and serve it hot to table. In making this soup, par- 
ticular care must be taken that no fat be on the surface 
of the broth at the time it is poured upon the almonds, 
otherwise the whole will be spoiled. 

Sou]) Cressy. 

Cut a pound of lean ham into small bits, and put 
at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a French roll cut in 
slices, and laid on the top. Take two dozen heads of 
celery cut small, six onions, two turnips, one carrot, 
SLX cloves, fom* blades of mace, and two bunches of 
water cresses. Put them all in a stew-pan, with a 
pint of good broth. Cover them close, and let them 
sweat gently for about twenty minutes, afler A^iiich fill 
it up Avith veal broth, and stew it four hours. When 
this is done, strain it through a fine sieve or cloth, and 
put it again into the saucepan, seasoning it with salt 
and a little chyan pepper. As soon as it is simmered 
np, pour it into the tureen, putting in some French roll 
toasted hard. 

Transparent Soup. 

Cut off the meat from a leg of veal as clean a? you 
can, after which break the bone in small pieces. Put 
the meat iuti a largo ]ug, with tise bones at top, and 



SOUPS. 15 

add to it a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce 
of mace, half a pound of blanched almonds, and pour 
in four quarts of boiling water. Set it over a slow fire, 
(dose covered, and let it stand all night. The next 
day take it out of the jug, put it into a clean saucepan, 
and let it boil slowly till it is reduced to two quarts. 
Daring tlie time it boils be particularly careful to talve 
off all the scum and fat. Strain it into a large bowl, 
and when yoti think the meat is perfectly settled at the 
bottom, so that no sediment can intermix: with the 
soup, put it into a clean saucepan, and intermix it with 
three or four ounces of boiled rice, or two ounces of 
vermicelli, which you like best. Wiien it has boiled 
about a quarter of an hour, poui* it into the tureen, and 
serve it to table. 

Almond Soup. 
Take a quart of almonds, and beat them in a marble 
mortar, with the yolks of six hard eggs, till they be- 
come a fine paste. Mix them by degrees with two 
quarts of new millc, a quart of cream, and a quarter of 
a pound of double refined sugar, beat fine, and stir the 
whole well together. When it is properly mixed, set 
it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring quick till you 
find it of a good thickness : then take it off, pour it into 
yom* dish, and serve it up. The principal care to be 
observed in making this soup is to prevent its curdling, 
which can only be done by keeping it constantly stir- 
ring till it boils. 

Soup Santc, or Gravy Soup. 
Take a pound and a half of lean ham cut, in slices, 
and put them in the bottom of the stew-pan, with 
about two ounces of butter under them. Over the 
ham, put three ounces of lean beef, and over the beef 
the same quantity of veal. Put in six onions cut in 
slices, two carrots, and two turnips sliced, two heads 
of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, and two 
blades of mace. Let there be a little water at the 
bottom, and when you have gently drawn it till it 
sticks, put in a gallon of boiling water. Let it stei*^ 
2 



16 30UP8. 

Cfently for two hours ; season witli salt and chyan pep- 
per, and strain it clear olF. Having ready a carrot cut 
in thin pieces about two inches in length, a turnip, tuo 
lieads of leeks, two of celery, two of endive cut across, 
two cabbage lettuces cut in the same manner, with a 
little sorrel and chervil. Put these into a stew-pan, 
and sweat them over the fire for about fifteen minutes ; 
then put them into your soup. Set the whole over 
the fire, and let it boil gently about a t[uarter of an 
hour ; then pour it into your tureen, with the crust of 
a French roll on the top, and send it to table. 

Soiq? and Bouille. 

Take about five pounds of brisket of beef, roll it up 
as tight as you can, and fasten it Avith a piece of tape. 
Put it into the stew-pan, with four pounds of the leg 
of mutton piece of beef, and about two gallons of water. 
When it boils, take off the scum quite clean, and put 
in one large onion, two or tlu'ee carrots, two turnips, a 
leek, two heads of celery, six or seven cloves, and some 
whole pepper. Stew the whole very gently, close 
covered, for six or seven hours. About an hoiu* be- 
fore dinner strain the soup quite clear from the meat. 
Have ready boiled carrots cut into small pieces with a 
carrot cutter, turnips cut in balls, spinach, a little 
chervil and sorrel, two heads of endive, and one or two 
of celery cut into pieces. Put these into a tureen, 
with a French roll dried after the crumb is taken out. 
Pom- the soup to these boiling hot, and add a little salt 
and chyan pepper. Take the tape from the beef, or 
bouille, and place it in a dish by itself, with mashed 
turnips and sliced carrots, each in a separate small 
dish, and in this manner serve up the wiiole. 

Ox Cheek Soujy. 

Break the bones of the cheek, and after havniij 
washed it thoroughly clean, put it into a large stew- 
pan, w^ith about two ounces of biitter at the bottom, 
and lay the fleshy side of the cheek do^Miwards. Add 
to it about half a pound of lean ham, cut in slices 



■ oups. 17 

Pat in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, 
two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and three blades of 
mace. Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of 
an hom', when the virtues of the roots will be extracted; 
after which put to it four quarts of water, and let it 
simmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you mean 
to use it as soup only, strain it clear off, and put in the 
white part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, ■\\ith 
a little browning to make it a fine coloiu*. Scald two 
ounces of vermicelli, and put into the soup, then let it 
boil for about ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen, 
with the crust of a French roll, and serve it up. If it 
is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as 
possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut 
in square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut in 
small dices, put in a little chyan pepper, strain the soup 
through a hair sieve upon the whole, and carry it to 
table. 

Macaroni Soup. 

Mix together tluree quarts of strong broth with one 
of gra\y. Take half a pound of small pipe macaroni, 
and boil it in three quarts of water, with a little butter 
in it, till it is tender, after w^hich strain it through a 
sieve. Cut it in pieces of about two inches in length, 
and put it into yom* soup, and boil it up for about ten 
minutes. Send it to table in a tureen, Avith the crust 
of a French roll toasted. 

Calf^s Head Soup. 

Wash the head as clean as possible, which you will 
the more easily do by strewing a little salt on it to 
take out the shme. After it is thoroughly cleansed, 
put it into your stew-pan, with a proper quantity of 
water, and throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion 
stuck with cloves, five or six blades of mace, and some 
pearl barley. When it has stewed till it is tender, put 
in some stewed celery. Season it with pepper, pour 
the soup into your dish, place the head in the middle, 
and serve it to table. 

No. 1. c 



18 SOUPS. 

Peas Soup in the Common Way. 
Put a quart of split peas into four quarts of water, 
with some beef lK)nes, or a little lean bacon. Add one 
bead of celery cut small, with three or four turnips. 
Let it boil gently till it is reduced to two quarts, and 
then work it through a fine sieve with a wooden s}X)on. 
Mix a little Hour and water well together, and boil 
them in the soup. Add another head of celery, with 
chyan pepper and salt to yom* taste. Cut a slice of bread 
in dice, fry them a light brown, and put them into yoiir 
dish ; after which pour in the soup, and serve it up. 

JVJiite Peas Soup. 
Take four or five pounds of lean beef, and put it 
into six quarts of water with a little salt. When it 
l)oils skim it clean, and put in two carrots, three whole 
onions, a little thyme, and tv.o heads of celery. When 
you have done this, put in three quarts of peas, and 
boil them with the meat till the latter is quite tender : 
then strain the soup through a hair sieve, at the same 
time rubbing the pulp of tiie peas so as to extract all 
their virtue. Split three ooss lettuces into four quarters 
each, and cut them about four inches in length, with a 
little mint shredded small : then put half a pound of 
butter in a stew-pan that will hold yom* soup, and put 
the lettuce and mint into the butter, with a leek sliced 
very thin. Stew them a quarter of an hour, shaking 
them about often ; and after adding a little of the soup, 
stew them a quarter of an hour longer : then put in 
3'^our soup, and as much thick cream as w U make it 
white : keep stirring it till it boils, fry a French roll in 
butter a little crisp, put it in the bottom of the tureen, 
pour the soup over, and serve it up. 

Green Peas Soup. 
Cut a knuckle of veal into thin slices, with one 
pound of lean ham. Lay them at the bottom of a 
soup-pot with the veal uppermost. Then put in six 
onions cut in slices, with two or three turnips, two 
carrots, three heads of celery cut very sin;ill, a little 



SOUPS. IM 

thyme, four cloves, and four blades of mace. Put a 
little vrater at the bottom, cover the pot close, and 
draw it gently, taking particular care the meat does 
not stick to the pot. When it is properly drawn, put 
in six quarts of boiling water, and let it stew gently 
four hours, skimming it well during the time. Take 
two quarts of peas, and stew them in some of the 
liquor till tender ; then strain them off and beat them 
fine, put the liquor in, and mix them up. Take a 
tammy, or fine cloth, and rub them tlirough till you 
have rubbed all the pulp out, and then 'put your soup 
in a clean pot, with half a pint of spinach juice, and 
boil it up for about a quarter of an hour : season with 
salt and a Httle pepper. If you tliink your soup not 
thick enough, take the crumb of a French roll, and 
boil it in a little of the soup, beat it in a mortar, and 
rub it through your tammy, or cloth, then put it into 
yoiu' soup, and boil it up. Pour the soup into the 
tmeen, with half a pint of young peas and mint, stewed 
•n fresh butter; then serve it up. 

Onion Soup. 
Take eight or ten large Spanish onions, and boil 
them in milk and water till they become quite soft, 
changing your milk and water tlu'ee times while the 
onions are boiling. When they are quite soft rub them 
tlirough a hair sieve. Cut an old fowl into pieces, and 
boil it for gravy, with one blade of mace. Then strain 
it, and having poured the gravy on the pidp of the 
onions, boil it gently, with the crumb of a stale penny 
loaf gi'ated into half a pint of cream, and season it to 
your taste with salt and chyan pepper. When you 
serve it up, grate a crust of brown bread round the 
edge of the dish. It will contribute much to the deh- 
cacy of the flavour, if you add a little stewed spinach, 
or a few heads of asparagus. 

Milk Soup. 
Boil a pint of milk with a little salt, and if you 
please sugar; arrange some sliced bread in a dish, pour 



^ SOUPS. 

over part ofyoiir milk to soak it, and keep it hot npiin 
your stove, taking care that it docs not burn. When 
you are ready to serve your soup, beat up the yolks 
of five or six eggs, and add them to the rest of the 
milk. Stir it over the fire till it chickens, and then 
take it off for fear it should curdle. 

Milk Soup. Another Way. 
Take two quarts of new milk, and put into it two 
sticks of cinnamon, two bay leaves, a small quantity 
of basket salt, and a little sugar. While these are 
heating, blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and 
beat them up to a paste in a marble mortar. Mix some 
milk with them by a little at a time, and while they 
are heating, grate some lemon-peel with the almonds, 
and a little of the juice ; after which strain it tlu'ough 
a coarse sieve ; mix all together, and let it boil up. 
Cut some slices of French bread, and dry them before 
the fire ; soak them a little in the milk, lay them at the 
bottom of the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve it up. 

Milk Soup, icith Onions. 

Take a dozen of onions, and set tliem over a stove 
till they are done without being coloured. Then boil 
some milk, add to it the onions, and season it with salt 
alone. Put some button onions to scald, then pass 
them in butter, and when tender add it to the soup, 
and serve it up. 

Rice Soup. 

Put a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into two 
quarts of water. Cover it close, and let it sinmicr 
very gently till the rice is quite tender. Take out the 
cinnamon, then sweeten it to yom' palate ; grate into it 
half a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold. Then 
beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of 
white wine ; mix them well together, and stir them 
into the rice. Set the whole over a slow fire, and keep 
stirring it all the time, lest' it should curdle. When it 
is of a good thickness, and boils, take it up, and keep 
stirring it till you pour it into your dish. 



SOUPS. 21 

Rice Soup, or Potage duRis. 

Take i handful of rice, or more, according to the 
quantity of soup you make; wash it well in warm wa- 
ter, rubbing it in yom* hands, and let it stand two honrs 
and a half or tln-ee hom-s over a slow fire, with good 
beef and veal gravy : when it is done, season it to yonr 
palate, and serve it np. 

Scotch Barley Broth. 

Take a ]eg of beef cut into pieces, and boil it in 
three gallons of water, with a sliced carrot and a crust 
of bread. Let it continue boiling till reduced to one 
half. Then strain it off, and put it again into the pot, 
with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of celery 
cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, a little 
parsley chopped small, and a few marigolds. When 
this has been boiled an hour, put in a large fowl, and 
let it continue boiling till the broth is quite good. Sea- 
son it with salt to yoiu* taste, take out the onion and 
sweet herbs, and send it to table with the fowl in the 
middle. The fowl may be used or omitted, according 
to yom' own discretion, as the broth will be exceeding 
good without it. 

Instead of a leg of beef, some make this broth with 
a sheep's head, ^vhich must be chopped all to pieces. 
Others use thick flank of beef, in wiiich case six pounds 
nnist be boiled in six quarts of water. Put in the 
barley with the meat, and boil it very gently for an 
hour, keeping it clear from scum. Then put in the 
before-mentioned ingredients, with turnips and carrots 
clean scraped and pared, and cut into small pieces. 
Boil all together softly till you find the broth very good, 
and season it to your palate. Then take it up, pour 
the broth into yoin* dish or tureen, put the beef in the 
middle, Avith carrots and turnips round the disli, and 
send it hot to table. This is a very comfortable repast, 
more particularly in cold and severe Aveather. 

Soup Lorraine. 
Take a poimd of almonds, blanch them, and beat 
Chem in a fine mortar, with a Aery little Avater to keep 



22 SOUPS. 

them from oiling. Then take all the white part of a 
large roasted fcwl, uith the yolks of four poached eggs, 
and pound all togelhcr as hne as possible. Take three 
quarts of strong veal broth, let it be very white, and 
all the fat clean skimmed off. Pour it into a stew-pan 
with the other ingredients, and mix them well together. 
Boil them gently over a slow fire, and mince the w hite 
part of another fowl very fine. Season it with pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace. Put in a bit 
of butter about the size of an egg, with a spoonful or 
t'»vo of the soup strained, and set it over the fire to be 
quite hot. Cut t\^o French rolls into thin slices, and 
set them before the fire to crisp. Then take one of the 
liollow loaves which are made for oysters, and fill it 
with the minced fowl : close the roll as neat as possible, 
and keep it hot. Strain the soup through a very fine 
sieve into a clean saucepan, and let it stew till it is of 
the thickness of cream. Put the crisped bread into 
the dish or tm'een, pom* the Foup over it, place the roll 
with the minced meat in the middle, and serve it up. 

Soup Maigre. 
Put half a pound of butter into a deep stew-pan, 
shake it about, and let it stand till it has done making 
a noise ; then tlu'ow in six middle-sized onions, peeled 
and cut small, and shake them about. Take a bunch 
of celery, clean W' ashed and picked, cut it into pieces 
about half an inch in length; a large handful of spinach 
clean washed and picked, a good lettuce (if it can be 
got) cut small, and a bundle of parsley chopped fine. 
Shake all these w^ell together in the pan for a quarter of 
an hour, and then strew in a little flour : stir all together 
in the stew-pan, and put in two quarts of wa^er. 
Throw in a handful of hard dry crust, w^th alx)ut a 
quarter of an ounce of ground pepper, and three blades 
of mace beat fine. Stir all together, and let it boil 
gently for about half an horn* : then take it off, beat up 
tlic yolks of two eggs, and stir them in with one spoon- 
ful of vinegar. Pour the whole into a soiip dish, and 
Bend it to table. If th^ season of the year will admit. 



sours. 23 

a pint of green peas boiled in the soup will be a mate- 
rial addition. 

Giblet Soiqy. 
Take four pounds of gravy-beef, two pounds of a 
scrag of mutton, and two pounds of a scrag of veal. Put 
these into a saucepan w4th two gallons of water, and 
let them stew very gently till the broth begins to have 
a good taste. Then pour it out, let it stand till it is 
cold, and skim off all the fat. Take two pah* of giblets 
well scalded and cleaned, put them into the broth, and 
let them simmer till they are very tender. Take out 
the giblets, and strain the soup through a cloth. Put 
a piece of butter rolled in flour into yom* stew-pan, and 
make it of a hght brown. Have ready, chopped small, 
some parsley, chives, a little penny-royal, and a small 
quantity of sweet marjo/cmi. Place the soup over a 
very slow fire ; put in the giblets, fried butter, herbs, 
a little Madeu'a wine, some salt, and chyan pepper. 
Let them simmer till the herbs are tender, and then 
send the soup to table with the giblets intermixed. 

Hodge Podge. 
Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a 
pound of scrag of mutton. Cut the beef into small 
pieces, and put the whole into a saucepan, with two 
quarts of water. Take an ounce of barley, an onion, 
a small bundle of sweet herbs, tliree or fom* heads of 
celery w"ashed clean and cut small, a little mace, two 
or tlii-ee cloves, and some whole pepper, tied all in a 
piece of cloth ; and tlu'ow into the pot with the meat 
tlu-ee turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot 
scraped clean and cut in six pieces, and a small lettuce. 
Cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for five 
or six hom's ; then take out the spice, sweet herbs, and- 
onion, poin- all into a soup dish, season it with salt, 
and send it to table. 

Coiv Heel Soup. 
Take four pounds of lean mutton, tlu-ee of beef, 
and t^^vo of veal ; cut them across, and p^itthem into a 



24 80UPS. 

pot with an old fowl, and lour or fjve slices of lean 
)iam. Let these stew without any liquor over a very 
slow fire, but be careful they do not burn to the pot. 
As soon as you fnid the meat begins to stick to the 
bottom, stir it about, and put in some good beef broth 
clear of all the fat: then put in some turnips, carrots, 
and celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a 
bay leaf; then add some more clear broth, and let it 
stew about an hour. While this is doing, talve a cow 
heel, split it, and set it onto boil in some of the same 
broth. When it is very tender take it off, and set on 
a stew-pan with some crusts of bread, and some more 
broth, and let it soak eight or ten minutes. W^hen 
the soup is stewed till it tastes rich, lay the crusts in a 
tureen, and the two halves of the cow heel upon them. 
Then pom- in the soup, season it to yoiu- palate, and 
serve it to table. 

White Soujy. 
Take a knuckle of veal, a large fowl, and a pound 
of lean bacon: put these into a saucepan wath six quarts 
of water: add half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few 
peppercorns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three 
onions, and three or fom' heads of celery cut in shces. 
Stew them all together, till the soup is as strong as 
you would have it, and then strain it tlu'ough a hair 
ftieve into a clean earthen pan. Let it stand all night, 
and the next day take off the scum very clean, and 
pour the liquor into a stew-pan. Put in half a pound 
of sw^eet almonds beat fine, boil it for about a quarter 
of an hour, and strain it through a lawn sieve. Then 
put in a pint of cream, with the yolk of an egg, stir all 
together, let it boil a few minutes, then pom* it into 
yom' tureen, and serve it up. 

Gravy Soiij?. 
Take a shin of beef, with the bone well chopped, 
and put it into your saucepan w4th six quarts of w ater, 
a pint of peas, and six onions. Set it over the fire, 
and let it boil gently till the juices of the meat are 
drawn out : tlien strain i]\e liquor through a sieve, and 



SOUPS. 25 

add to it a quart of strong beef broth. Season it to 
yoia- taste with pepper and salt, and put in a little 
celery and beet leaves ; and when it has boiled till the 
vegetables are tender, pom* it into a tureen, and take 
it to table. 

Spring Scujj. 
Take a pint of young peas, some chervil, sorrel, 
young green onions, spring carrots, and turnips, and 
stew them in some butter till tender ; when done, add 
what quantity of good brown gravy you wish ; season 
it with pepper, mace, and salt. Let the turnips and 
carrots be sliced, and be sure take off all the fat that 
rises upon the soup. 

Hare Soup. 

Cut a large hare into pieces, and put it into an 
earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large 
onions, a httle salt, a red-herring, half a dozen large 
morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. 
Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then strain 
the liquor into a stew-pan. Have ready boiled four 
ounces of French barley, and put in ; just scald the 
liver, and rub it tlu'ough a sieve with a wooden spoon ; 
put it into the soup, set it over the fire, but do not let 
it boil. Keep it stu'ring till it is on the brink of boil- 
ing, and then take it off. Put some crisped bread into 

your tureen, and pour the soup into it. This is a 

most delicious rich soup, and calculated for large enter- 
tainments. If any other kind of soup is provided, this 
should be placed at the bottom of the table. 

Partridge Soup. 

Take two large old partridges, skin them, and cut 
tliem into pieces, with three or fom* slices of ham, a 
little celery, and tlu'ee large onions cut in slices. Fry 
them in butter till they are brown, but be sure you do 
not let them burn. Then put them into a stew-pan, 
with three quarts of boiling water, a few peppercorns, 
and a little salt. After it has stewed gently for two 
hours, strain it throngli a sieve, put it again into your 

No. 2. ]) 



26 ROUPS. 

stew-pan with sijme stewed celery aiifl fr.ed fjread. 
When it isnearb(»ilii»g, pour it into your tureen, and 
serve it up hot. 

Cray Fish Soup. 

Boil an Imndred fresh cray fish, as also a fine lob- 
ster, and pick the meat clean out of each. Pound 
the shells of both in a mortar till they are very fine, 
and boil them in four quarts of "water "with four pounds 
of mutton, a pint of green split peas nicely picked and 
^^'ashed, a large turnip, a carrot, an onion, mace, cloves, 
an anchovy, a little thyme, pepper, and salt. Stew 
them on a slow fire till all the goodness is out of the 
mutton and shells ; then strain it through a sieve, and 
put in the meat of your cray fish and lobster, but let 
them be cut into very small pieces, with the red coral 
of the lobster, if it has any. Boil it half an honr, and 
just before yon serve it up, add a little butter melted 
thick and smooth : stn it round a\ hen yon put it in, and 
let it simmer very gently about ten minutes. Fry a 
French roll nice and brown, lay it in the middle of the 
d :sh, poiu: the soup on it, and serve it up hot. 

Fcl Soup. 

Take a pound of eels, which will make a pint oi 
good soup, or any greater weight, in proportion to the 
(piantity of soup you intend to make. To every pound 
of eels put a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or 
three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover them close, and 
let them boil till half the liquor is wasted : then strain 
it, and toast some bread ; cut it small, lay the bread in 
your dish, and pour in the soup. This soup is very bal- 
samic, and particularly nutritious to weak constitutions. 

Oyster Soup. 

Take a pound of skate, fom' or jfive flounders, and 
two eels ; cut them into pieces, just cover them with 
water, and season Avith mace, an onion stuck with 
cloves, a head of celery, two parsley roots sliced, some 



SOUPS. £1 

pepper and salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Covci 
thein down close, and after they have simmered about 
an hour and a half, strain the liquor clear oif, and pul 
it into a clean saucepan. In the mean time take a 
qiiart of oysters, bearded, and beat them in a mortar 
w ith the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. Season it with 
pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; and when the liquor 
boils put all into it. Let the whole boil till it becomes 
of the thickness of cream, then take it off, pour it into 
your tureen, and serve it to table. 

Mutton Broth. 

Take a neck of mutton about six pounds, cut it in 
two, boil the scrag part in a gallon of water, skim it 
\vell, and then put in a small bundle of sweet herbs, an 
onion, and a good crust of bread. When the scrag 
lias boiled about an hour, put in the other part of the 
mutton, and about a quarter of an hour before the meat 
is done, put in a turnip or two, some dried marigolds, 
a few chives, with par.sley chopped small, and season 
it with salt. You may at first put in a quarter of a 
pound of barley or rice, which both thickens and con- 
tributes a grateful flavour. Some like it thickened 
with oatmeal, and some with bread ; and, instead oi 
sweet herbs and onions, season it with mace : but this 
is a mere fancy, and determined by the different palates 
of different people. If you boil turnips as sauce to the 
meat, let it be done by themselves, otherwise the fla- 
vour, by being too powerful, will injure the broth. 

Beef Broth. 

Take a leg of beef with the bone well cracked, 
tvash it thoroughly cleaa, and put it into yom' pot with 
a gallon of water. Scum it well, and put in two or 
rhree blades of mace, a small bunch of parsley, and a 
large crust of bread. Let it boil till the beef and 
sinews are quite tender. Cut some toasted bread 
and put into your tureen, then lay in the meat, and 
\)our the soup all over 
3 



28 SOUPS. 

Beef Drink. 
Take a pound and a lialf of loan beef, cut it into 
small pieces, and put it into a gallon of water, with the 
under crust of a penny loaf, and a little salt. Let it 
boil till it is reduced to two quarts, then strain it off, 
and it will be very good drink. — Observe, when you 
first put the meat into the water, that it is clear of all 
skin and fat. 

. Sti'ong Beef Broth to Izeep. 

Take part of a leg of beef, and the scrag end of a 
neck of mutton. Break the bones well of each, and put 
to it as much water as will cover it, Avith a httle salt. 
When it boils skim it clean, and jnit to it a large onion 
stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pep- 
per, and a nutmeg quartered. Let these boil till, the 
virtues of the mace are drawn out, then strain the soup 
through a fine sieve, and keep it for use. 

Veal Broth. 
Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, 
put in tw^o ounces of rice or vermicelli, a little salt, and 
a blade of mace. When the meat is thoroughly boiled, 
and the liquor reduced to about one half, it will be very 
good and lit for use. 

Chicken Broth. 
Skin a large old fowl, cut oil the fat, break the 
fov/1 to pieces, and put it into two quarts of water, 
with a good crust of bread, and a blade of nmce. Let 
it boil gently five or six hom's : then pom' off all the li- 
quor, put a quart more of boiling water to it, and cover 
it close ; let it boil softly till it is good, then strain i( 
off, and season it with a little salt. In the meantime 
boil a chicken, and save the liquor ; and w hen the flesh 
s eat, take the bones, break them, and put them in the 
liquor in which you boiled the chicken, with a blade 
of mace, and a crust of bread. When the juice of the 
bones is extracted, strain it off, mix it v>ith the other 
liouor, and send it to UMe.. 



SOUPS. 29 

Spring Broth. 
Take a crust of bread, and about a quarter cf a 
pound of fresh butter; put them mto a soup-pot or 
stew-pan, with a good quantity of herbs, as bear, sor- 
rel, chervil, lettuce, leeks, and purslain, all washed 
clean, and coarsely chopped. Put to them a quart of 
water, and let them stew till it is reduced to one half, 
when it will be fit for use. This is an excellent pm'i- 
fier of the blood. 

Plum Porridge to keep. 
Take a leg and shin of beef, put them into eight 
gallons of water, and boil them till the meat is quite 
tender. When the broth is strong, strain it off, shake 
out the meat, and put the broth again into the pot. 
Slice sLx: penny loaves thin, cutting off the tops and 
bottoms, put some of the liquor to them, cover them 
over, and let them soak for a quarter of an hour : then 
boil and strain it, and put it into yoiu- pot. When the 
whole has boiled a short- time, put in five pounds of* 
stewed raisins of the sun, and two pounds of prunes. 
After it has boiled a quarter of an hour, put in five 
pounds of currants clean washed and picked. Let 
these boil till they swell, and then put in three quar- 
ters of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and 
two nutmegs, all beat fine. Before you put these into 
the pot, mix them with a little cold liquor, and put 
them in but a short time before the whole is done. 
When you take off the pot, put in tln-ee pounds of 
sugar, a little salt, a quart of sack, a quart of claret, 
and the juice of two or three lemons. If you think 
proper, instead of bread, you may thicken it with sago. 
Pom- your porridge into earthen pans, and keep it lor 
use. 

Mock Turtle Soup. 

Scald a calf's head with the skin on, and take oil 
the horny part, which must be cut into pieces about 
two inches square. Let these be well washed and 
cleaned, then dry them in a cloth, and put them into a 
stew-pan, with four quiu'ts of water made as follows : 



30 SOUPS 

Take six or seven pounds of beef, a calf 's foot, a sliank 
of liam, an onion, two carrots, a turnip, a iiead of ce- 
lery, some cloves and whole pej)per, a binich of sweet 
herbs, a little lemon-peel, and a few truflles. Put 
those into eight quarts of water, and let it stew gently 
till the broth is reduced one half; then strain it oil", and 
put it into the stew-pan, with the horny parts of the 
calfs head. Add some knotted marjorum, a little 
savory, thyme, and parsley, all chopped small together, 
with some cloves and mace pounded, a little chyan 
pepper, some green onions, a shalot cut fine, a few 
chopped mushrooms, and half a pint of Madeira wine. 
Stew all these together gently till the soup is reduced 
to two quarts ; then heat a little broth, mix some flour 
smooth in it, with the yolks of two eggs, and keep it 
stirring over a gentle lire till it is near boiling. Add 
this to the soup, keeping it stirring as you pour it in, 
and let them all stew together for another hour. When 
you take it off the fire, squeeze in the juice of half a 
lemon, and half an orange, and thrown in some boiled 
force-meat balls. Pour the w hole into your tureen, 
and serve it up hot to table. This is a rich soup, and 
to most palates deliciously gi*atifying. 

Portable Soup. 

This soup (wliich is particularly calculated for the 
use and convenience of travellers, fi'om its not receiv- 
ing any injiu'y by time,) must be made in the following 
manner. Cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, 
one of beef, and the lean part of a ham. Put a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cal- 
dron, then lay in the meat and bones, with four ounces 
of anchovies, and two ounces of mace. Cut off the 
green leaves of five or six heads of celery, wash the 
heads quite clean, cut them small, put them in with 
three large carrots cut thin, cover the caldron quite 
close, and set it over a moderate fire. When you find 
the gravy begins to dra^v, keep taking it up till you 
have got it all out ; then put water in to cover the 
meat ; set it on the fire again, and let it boil gently for 



SOUPS. cJi 

• four hours ; then strain it thi'ough a hau* sieve into a 
clean pan, till it is reduced to one part out of three. 
Strain the gravy you draw from the meat into the pan, 
and let it boil gently till you find it of a glutinous con- 
sistence, observing to keep skimming off the fat clean 
as it rises. You must take particular care, when it is 
nearly enough, that it does not burn. Season it to your 
taste Avith cliyan pepper, and pour it on flat eartlien 
dishes a quarter of an inch thick. Let it stand till the 
next day, and then cut it out by round tins a little 
larger than a crown piece. Lay the cakes in dislies, 
and set them in the sun to dry, to facilitate which tiu-n 
them often. When the cakes are dry, put them into 
a tin box, with a piece of clean white paper between 
each, and keep them in a dry place. If made in frost v 
weatlier, it will be sooner formed in its proper solidity 
This soup is not only particularly useful to travellers, 
but it is also exceeding convenient to be kept in pri^ ate 
families ; for by putting one of the cakes into a sauce- 
pan, with about a pint of w^ater, and a little salt, a 
l).\sin of good broth may be had in a few minutes. 
T^lere is also another great convenience in it ; that ])y 
bo Jhig a small quantity of water with one of the cakes, 
it will make an excellent gravy for roast turkeys and 



32 

CHAPTER II. 

BOILIJVG IJV GEJVERAL. 
SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

A S a necessary prelude to the directions given under 
this head, we shall make a few necessary and general 
observations. All meat should be boiled as slow as 
possible, but in plenty of water, which will make it 
rise and look plump. Be careful to keep it clear from 
scum, and let your pot be close covered. If you boil 
it flist, the outside will be hardened before tlie inside is 
V arm, and the meat will be disagreeably discoloured. 
A leg ofveal of twelve pounds weight, will take three 
hours and a half boiling ; and the slower it boils the 
whiter and plumper it will be. 

With respect to mutton and beef, if they are rather 
under done, they may be ate without being either 
disagreeable or unwholesome; but lamb, pork, and 
veal, should be thoroughly done, otiierwise, they will 
be obnoxious to the sight, and consequently ungrate- 
ful to the palate. A leg of pork will take half an 
hour's more boiling than a leg of veal of the same 
weight; but in general, when you boil beef and mut- 
ton, you may allow as many quarters of an horn' as the 
meat weighs pounds. To put in the meat when the 
water is cold must be allowed to be the best method, 
as thereby the middle gets warm before the outside 
becomes hardened. Three quarters of an hour will 
boil a leg of lamb four pounds and a half weight. 
From these general directions, it would be imneces- 
sary to describe the usual mode of boiling the common 
joints of either mutton or l>eef We shall therefore 
proceed to those articles which require more particif 
tar notice. 



BOILING MEAT, t^'C. 33 

To dress a Calf's Head, one half boiled, the other 

baked. 

After having well cleansccrthe head, parboil one 
half, beat up the yollv of an egg, and vnb it over the 
head with a feather ; then strew over it a seasoning 
of pepper, salt, tliynie, parsley chopped small, shred 
Jeuion-peel, grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; stick 
bits of bntter over it, and send it to the oven, Boi] 
the other half white in a cloth, and put them both into 
a dish. Boil the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with 
a very little parsley, and a leaf or two of sage. When 
they are boiled chop them small, and warm them up 
in a saucepan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper 
and salt. Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the 
middle of a small dish, and the brains round it ; have 
in another dish, bacon or pickled pork ; and in a third, 
greens and carrots. 

Grass Lamb. 

Whatever the number of pounds is that the joint 
weighs, so many quarters of an hom- must it boil. 
When done, serve it up with spinach, carrots, cab- 
bage, or brocoli. 

A Ham. 

Put yom- ham into a copper of cold water, and when 
it boils take care that it boils slowly. A ham of twen- 
ty pounds weight will take four hours and a half boil- 
ing ; and so in proportion for one of a larger or smaller 
size. An old and large ham will require sixteen hours 
soaking in a large tub of soft water ; but a green one 
does not requhe any soaking. Be sure, while your ham 
is boiling, to keep the water clear from scum. When 
you take it up, pull off the skin, and rub it all over with 
an egg, strew on crumbs of bread, baste it with a little 
butter, and set it to the fire till it is of a light brown. 

Another Way of boiling a Ham. 

With respect to its being an old ham, or a green 
one, observe the before-mentioned directions. Pare it 
round and underneath, taking care no rusty part is left. 
Put it into a pan or pot that will properly '^ontain it, 

iVn. 2. v: 



;3L boiling 

cover it with ^vatcl^ and })ut in i few cloves, thyme, 
and laurel leaves. Let it hoil or a sIoav fire about five 
hours, and then add a glass of brandy, and a pint of red 
wine : finish boiJing in the same manner. It it is to be 
served up hot, take off the skin, and throw it over with 
crumbs of bread, a little parsley finely chopped, and a 
few bits of butter, and give it a good colour either i» 
the oven, or w ith a salamander. If it is to be kept 
cold, it will be better to let the skin remain, as it will 
be a means of preserving its juices. 

Ham a-la-Braise. 
Pare your ham round and underneath, taking caro 
no rusty part is left ; cover it w ell with meat under 
and over, with roots and spices, filling it up w ith water. 
The gravy that comes from the ham being excellent 
for all kinds of brow^n gauces. 

Tongues. 
If it be a dried tongue^ steep it all night in water; 
but if it be a pickled one, only wash it ^veil from tlie 
brine. Let it l3oil moderately three hours. If it is to 
be eat hot, stick it with cloves^ rub it over with the 
yolk of an egg, strew crumbles! bread over it, and, 
when done, baste it with butter, ajid set it before the 
fire till it becomes of a light brown. Dish it up with 
a little brown gravy, or red wine sauce^ and lay slices 
of currant jelly round the dish. 

JVeafs Tongue, with Parsley. 
Boil it a quarter of an hour, then take it cmt, antl 
lard it ; put it in again to boil with any meat you have 
going on ; when it is done, take the skin oil', cut aknost 
half througli the middle lengthwise, that it may open 
in two parts, without the pieces coming apart, anil 
serve it up with some gravy, pepper, and parsley shred 
fine. If you wish you may add a dash of lemon-juice. 

Jjeg of Mutton, with Caulijloivers and Spinach. 
Take a leg of mutton, cut venison fashion, and boil 
|t in a cloth. Boil two fine cauliflowers in milk and 



MEAT, ^C. 35 

waler, pull them into sprigs, and stew them with bnt- 
ter, pepper, salt, and a little milk : stew some spinach 
in a saucepan, and piit to it a quarter of a pint o( 
gi*avy, with a piece of butter, and a little flour. When 
all is done, put the mutton in the middle of the dish, 
the spinach ronnd it, and the cauliflovver over all. The 
butter the cauliflower was stewed in must be pom-ed 
over it, and it must be made to appear like smootli 
cream. 

Lamb's Head. 
Wash the head very clean, take the black part from 
the eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay the head 
in warm water; boil the lights, heart, and part of tiie 
liver. Chop and flom* them, and toss them up in a 
saucepan with some gravy, catchup, and a little pep- 
per, salt, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of cream. Boil 
the head very white, lay it in the middle of the dish, 
and the mince-meat round it. Place the other parts 
of the liv^er fried, with some very small bits of bacon 
on the mince-meat, and the brains fried in little cakes 
and laid on the rim of the dish, with some crisped pars- 
ley put between. Pour a little melted butter over the 
head, and garnish with lemon. 

Or you may dress it thus : 
Boil the head and pluck tender, but do not let the 
liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it 
cross and cross with a knife, grate some nutmeg over 
it, and lay it in a dish before a good fire. Then grntv 
some crumbs of bread, some sweet herbs rubbed, a 
little lemon-peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and 
salt, and baste it with a little butter ; theji throw a 
little flour over it, and just as it is done do the same, 
baste and dredge it. Take half the liver, tlie hearty 
the lights, and tongue, chop them very small, with 
about a gill of gravy or water. First shake some flou? 
over the meat, and stir it together, then put in the gnny 
or water a good piece of butter rolled in a little flour, 
a little pepper and salt, and what runs from the head 
in tJie dish. Simmer all together c. few minutes, and 



36 BOILING 

add half a spoonful of vinegar; pctir it into jour dish, 
lay the head in the middle of the mince-meat, have 
ready the otlier half of the liver cut tliin Avith j^onie 
slices of bacon broiled, and lay round the head. Gar- 
nish with lemon. 

Leg of Lamb boiled, and Loin fried. 
Cut yonr leg from the loin., and boil it three qnar- 
ters of an hour. Cnt the loin in handsome steaks, 
beat them ^^ ith a cleaver, and fry them a good brown. 
Then stew them a little in strong gravy. Put your 
leg on the dish, and lay your steaks roimd it. Pour 
on your gravy, lay round hnnps of staved spinach 
and crisped parsley on every steak. Send it to table 
with gooseberry sauce in a boat, and garnish with lemon. 

A Haunch or JVeck of Venison. 

Asa necessary preparation for eitlier of these joints, 
let it lie in salt for a week ; then boil it in a cloth well 
floured, and allow a quarter of an liour's boiling for 
every pound it weighs. For sauce, boil some cauli- 
flowers, pulled into little sprigs, in some milk and wa- 
ter, with some fine white cabbage, and turnips cut in 
dice ; add some beet-root cut into narrow pieces about 
an inch and a half long, and half an inch thick. After 
your cabbage is boiled, beat it up in a saucepan witli 
a piece of butter and salt. When your meat is done, 
and laid in the dish, put the cabbage next the cauli- 
flower, and then the turnips. Place the beet-root here 
and there, according to your fancy : and have a little 
melted butter in a cup, in case it should be wanted. 
This dish is not only excellent in its quality, but par- 
ticularly pleasing in its appearance. If any is left, it 
will eat well the next day, hashed with gi'avy and 
sweet sauce. 

Pickled Pork. 

After wasliing and scraping it perfectly clean, put 
it into the pot with the water cold, and when the rind 
feels tender, it is enough. The general sauce is green», 
among the variety of which you are to make choice to 
voiiv OAvn dh-ection. 



MEAT, t^C. 37 

Pig''s Pettitoes. 
Boil the feet till they are quite tender, but take up 
the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled ten 
minutes, and shred them small. Then take out the 
feet and split them ; thicken your gravy with flour and 
butter, and put in your mince-meat, a spoonful o{ 
white wine, a slice of lemon, a little salt, and give it a 
gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg ; put to it two 
spoonsful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Then 
put in the pettitoes, and shake it over the lire till it is 
quite hot, but do not let it boil. Put sippets into the 
dish, pour over the whole, and garnish with sliced 
lemon. 



SECT. II. 
BOILING POULTRY. 

Twkeys. 

A Turkey should not be dressed till three or foiu- 
days after being killed, as it ^ill otherwise not boil 
uhite, neither will it eat tender. When you have 
plucked it, draw it at the rump, cut off the legs, put the 
ends of the thighs into the body, and tie them w ith a 
string. Having cut off the head and neck, gi'ate a pen- 
ny loaf, chop fine about a score of oysters, shred a little 
lemon-peel, and put in a sufficient quantity of salt, pep- 
per, and nutmeg. Mix these up into a light force- 
meat, with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, 
and a spoonful or two of cream. Stuff the craw of tlie 
turkey with one part of this composition: the other 
r.-iust be made into balls, and l)oiled. When you have 
sewed up the turkey, and dredged it with flour, put it 
into a kettle of cold water ; cover it close, set it over 
the fu'e, and when the scum begins to rise, take it clean 
oil, and then cover the kettle close. If a young one of 
a moderate size, let it boil very slowly for half an horn" 
then take off your kettle, and let it stand for some tim 



33 BOILING 

close coveired, \vlicn tlie steam being confined, will 
sufficiently do it. When you dish it up, pour a .' lie 
of yoiu' oyster sauce o\er it, lay the force-meat balls 
round it, and serve it uj) with the rest of the sauce in 
a boat. Garnish your dish with barberries and lemon. 
The best sauces for a boihxl turkey are, good oyster 
and celery sauce. Make the oyster sauce thus : Take 
a pint of oysters, strain the liquor from them, and beard 
and wash them in cold water. Pom' the liquor clear olf 
into a stew-pan, and put in the oysters with a blade of 
mace, some butter rolled w ith flour, and a quarter of 
a lemon. When they boil up, put in half a pint of 
cream, and boil the whole gently togetlier. Take the 
lemon and mace out ; squeeze the juice of the lemon 
into the sauce, and serve it up in your boats or basins. 
Make the celery sauce thus : Cut the white part 
of the celery into pieces about an inch in length, and 
boil it in some water till it is tender. Then take hall 
a pint of veal brotli aiid a blade of mace, and tliickeii 
it Avith a little flour and butter; add half a pint of 
cream, and boil thejn gently together. Put in youi 
celery, and when it boils, pour them into yom* boats 

Chickens. 

xVfter you have draw^n them, lay them in skimmed 
milk for two hom'S, and truss them. Wlien you hn\e 
properly singed, and dusted them with flour, cover 
them close in cold water, and set them over a sIoav fire. 
Having taken ofl" the scum, and boiled them slowly fi\ <» 
or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep tiu i;i 
close covered for half an hour in the water, which w ill 
do them sufliciently, and make them plump and wliite. 
Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat 
then drain theiii and pour over tliem wliite sauce, which 
you must have made ready in the following manner : 

Take the heads and necks of the chickens, with :\ 
small bit of scrag of veal, or any scraps of mutton you 
may have by yoii, anc' put them into a saucepan, witii 
a blade or two of iriar«, and a few black peppercorns, 
an anchovy, a hi ;id v-f celerv, a slice of the end of > 



POULTRY, ^'C. 39 

lemon, and a bnnch of sweet herbs. Put to these a 
qnart of water, cover it close, and let it boil till it is 
reduced to half a pint. Then strain it, and tliicken it 
with a quarter of a pound of butter mi.\ed with Hour, 
vind boil it five or six minutes. Then put in two vspoons 
fill of mushrooms, and mix the yolks of two eggs wiVn 
a tea-cup full of cream, and a little nutmeg grated. 
Put in your sauce, and keep shaking it over the fire till 
it is near boiling ; then pour it into yom* lx)ats, and 
serve it up with your chickens. 

Foivls. 

After having drawn your fowls, which you must 
be particularly careful in doing, cm off the head, neck, 
and legs. Skewer them with the ends of their legs in 
their bodies, and tie them roimd with a string. Singe 
and dust them w^ell v\dth flour, put them into cold wa- 
ter, cover the kettle close, and set it on the fire ; but 
take it off as soon as the scum begins to rise. Cover 
them close again, and let them boil gently twenty mi- 
nutes ; then take them off, and the heat of the water 
will do them sufficiently. Melted butter with pars- 
ley shred fine is the usual sauce, but you may serve 
them up with the like sauce as before directed for 
ciiickens. 

Rabbits or Duclcs. 

Boil your duck or rabbit in a good deal of water, 
and when the scum rises take it clean oft". A duck will 
take about twenty minutes, and a rabbit half an honr. 
Melted butter and parsley is frequently used as sauce 
for rabbits; but if you prefer onion sauce, which will 
do for either, make it thus : Peel your onions, and 
throw them into water as you peel them ; then cut 
tliem into thin slices, boil them in milk and water, and 
scmn the liquor. About half an hour will boil them. 
When they are sufficiently boiled, put them into a clean 
sieve to drain; chop them, and rub them tlu'ough a 
cullender; then put them into a saucepan, and shake 
a little flour, with two or three sjxwnsful of cream, and 
a good piece of butter. Stew them all together till 



40 BOILING 

tliey are thick and fine; lay the duck or rabbit in a 
tiisii, and ponr the sauce all over. If a rabbit, you 
must phick out the jaw-bone^*, and stick one in each 
eye, the small end inwards 

Another sauce for a boiled duck may be made thus : 
Take a larjjje onion, a handful of parsley clean "washed 
and picked, and a lettuce ; cut the onion small, chop 
the parsley fine, and put them into a quarter of a pint 
of good gravy, Avith a spoonful of lemon-juice, and a 
little pepper and salt. When they have stewed to 
gether half an hour, add two spoonsful of red wine. 
Lay the duck in your dish, and pour the sauce over it. 

Pigeons. 
When you draw your pigeons, be careful to take 
out the craw as clean as possible. Wash them in se- 
veral waters, and having cut off the pinions turn their 
legs under their wings. Let them boil very slowly a 
quarter of an hoiu', and they will be suificiently done. 
Dish them up, and pour over them good melted butter; 
lay round the dish a little brocoli, and serve them up 
Avitli melted butter and parsley in boats. They should 
be boiled by themselves, and may be eaten with bacon, 
greens, spinach, or asparagus. 

Geese. 
Singe a goose, and pour over it a quart of boiling 
milk. Let it continue in the milk all night, then take 
it out, and dry it well with a cloth. Cut an onion 
very small with some sage, put them into the goose, 
SCAN it up at the neck and Aent, and hang it up by the 
legs till the next day ; then put it into a pot of cold 
Avater, cover it close, and let it boil gently for an hoiu'. 
Seive it up Avith onion sauce. 

Partridges. 
Boil them quick in a good deal of Avater, and fifteen 
minutes aahII be sufficient. For sauce, take a quarter 
of a pint of cream, and a bit of fresh butter about the 
size of a Avalnut. Stir it one Avay till it is melted. 
nnd then i^oir it over the ])irds. 



fOULTRY, t^'C. 41 

Pheasants, 
These must he likewise boiled in plenty of water. 
If it be a small one, half an hour will be sufficient, but 
if a large one, three quarters. For sauce, stew some 
lieads of celery cut very fine, thickened Avith cream, 
and a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and season 
with salt to your palate. When yonr bird is done, 
pom* the sauce over it, and garnish the dish with thin 
slices of lemon. 

Snipes or Woodcocks. 

Snipes or Woodcocks must be boiled in good 
strong broth, or beef gravy, which you must make as 
follows : Cut a pound of lean beef into small pieces, 
and put it into four quarts of water, with an onion, a 
^ jndle of sweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, six 
. Jo\ es, and some whole pepper. Cover it close, let it 
tx>il till it is half wasted, then strain it off, and put the 
gravy into a saucepan, with salt enough to season it. 
Draw the birds clean, but take particular care of the 
guts. Put the birds into the gravy, cover them close, 
and ten minutes will boil them. In the meantime cut 
the guts and liver small, then take a little of the gravy 
the birds are boiling in, and stew the guts in it with 
a blade of mace. Take about as much of the cruml) 
of bread as the inside of a roll, and rub or grate it 
very small into a clean cloth, then put into a pan 
with some butter, and fry it till crisp, and of a line 
light brown coloiu'. When your birds are ready, take 
about half a pint of the liquor they v^ere ])oiied in, 
^\\(\ add to the guts two spoonsful of red Avine, and 
a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in 
flour. Set them on the Are, and shake yom* saucepan 
often, (but by no means stir it witli a spoon,) till the 
butter is melted ; then put in the fried crumbs, gi\ e 
the saucepan another sliake, take up your birds, lay 
them in the dish, and pour your sauce over them 
Gamish with sliced lemon. 



42 BOlLIlfO 

SECT. III. 
BOILING FISH. 

Turbot. 

When you liave tlioroiighly washed anl cleansed 
your fish, rub some allegar over it, Avhichwill greatly 
contribute to its firmness. Put it in your fisii-plate 
with the belly upwards, and fasten a cloth tight over 
it to prevent its breaking. Let it boil gently in hard 
water, with plenty of salt and vinegar, and scum it 
well, to prevent the skin being discolom'ed. Be sure 
not to put in your fish till the water boils, and when 
it is enough, take it up, and drain it. Remove the 
cloth carefully, and slip the fish very cautiously on 
the dish, for fear of breaking it. Lay over it oyster- 
patties, or fried oysters. Put yom' lobster or gravy 
sauce into boats, and garnish with crisped parsley anil 
picldes. 

Another Way to dress a Turbot. 

Put into the bottom of yom* stew-pan some thyme, 
parsley, sweet herbs, and an onion sliced. Then lay 
in yom* fish, and strew over it the like quantity of the 
same herbs, Avith some chives and sweet basil. Co\'er 
tlie fish with an equal quantity of white wine and the 
best vinegar. Strew in a little bay salt with some 
whole pepper. Set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, 
.ipid gradually increase the heat till it is enough; 
when done, take it off the fire, but let the fish remain 
in the liquor, till you have made yom* sauce as fol- 
lows : Set a saucepan over the fire, with a pound of 
buttei', two anchovies split, boned, and washed, two 
large spoonsful of capers, cut small, some chives 
whole, a little pepper and salt, some nutmeg grated, 
a little flour, a spoonfid of vinegar, and a little 
water. — Keep shaking it round for some time, and 
then put on the fish to make it quite hot. When both 
are done, put the turbot into a dish, pour some of the 
sauce over it, and the remainder mto a boat. Garnish 
the dish with horse-radish. 



FISH. 43 

Turhot en Maigre. 
'Put into your stew-pan a pint of water, a good bit 
of salt, some garlic, onions, all sorts of sweet herbs, 
and cloves ; boil the whole half an hour over a slow 
fh'e Let it settle. Pom* it off clear, and strain it 
through a sieve ; then put in twice as much milk as 
brine, and put the fish in it over a slow fire, letting it 
sinnner only. When your turbot is done, you may 
ser\'e it with any one of the following sauces : Ragout 
of egg balls, ragout of oysters, or truffles, or mush- 
room, or a sauce hachee. 

Salmon. 
This is so substantial a fish, that it requires to be 
well l>oiled. A piece not very thick w ill take half an 
houi Boil horse-radish in the water. For sauce, 
melt some butter plain, and some other with anchovy. 
Garnish with horse-radish and sliced lemon. 

To dress a tvhole Salmon for a large Company. 

When the salmon is scalded and gutted, take off 
the head and tail, cut the body through into slices an 
inch and a half thick, and throw them into a large pan 
of pump water. When they are all put in, sprinkle 
a handful of bay salt upon the water, stir it about, 
and then take out the fish. Set on a large deep stew- 
pan, boil the head and tail, but do not spht the head, 
and put in some salt. When they have boiled ten 
minutes, skim the water very clean, and put in the 
slices. When they are boiled enough, take them out, 
lay the head and tail in a dish, and the slices round. 
Serve it up with plain melted butter and anchovy sauce. 
Garnish with horse-radish, mixed with the slices. 

Cod's Head. 
Take out the gills and the blood, wash the whole 
very clean, rub over it a little salt, and a glass of alle- 
gar, and lay on your fish plate. When the water boils, 
tlirow in o good handful of salt, with a glass of alle- 
gar. Then put in the fish, and let it boil gently half an 
hour (if it s a large one, three quarters.) Take it iij> 
4* 



44 BOILING 

very carefully, and strip the skin clean off, set it before 
a brisk fire, dredge it all ov^er ^vitil flour, and baste it 
well with butter. When the froth begins to rise, 
throw over it some very flne white bread crumbs, and 
continue basting it to make it froth well. When it is 
ofa flue light brown, dish it np, and garnish it with 
lemon cut in slices, scraped horse-radish, barberries, a 
^ew small fish fried and laid round it, or fried oysters. 
Cut the row and liver in slices, and lay it over a littk' 
of the lumpy part of the lobster out of the sauce, which 
you must make as follows : Take a good lobster, and 
stick a skewer in the vent of the tail to keep out the 
water. Throw into the water a handfifl of salt, and 
when it boils, put in the lobster, which will be done 
in half an hour. If it has spawm, pick them off, and 
pomid them very flne in the mortar. Put them into 
half a pound of good melted butter : then take the 
meat out of your lobster, break it in bits, and put that 
in likewise, with a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, the 
same of walnut catchup, a slice of lemon, one or two 
slices of horse-radish, and a small quantity of beaten 
mace; season it to your taste with salt and chyan 
pepper. Boil them one minute, then take out the 
horse-radish and lemon, pom* it into your sauce-boat, 
and serve it up with your fish. — If lobsters cannot be 
procured, you may make use of oysters or shrimps the 
same way ; and if you cannot get any kind of shell fish, 
30U may then add to tlie butter two anchovies cut 
small, a spoonful of walnut hquor, and an onion stuck 
with cloves. 

IVJiole Cod, 

Put a large quantity of water into yoiu' fish-kettle, 
which must be of a proper size for the cod, with a 
quarter of a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt, and hall 
a stick of horse-radish. Let these boil together for 
some time, and then put in the fish. When it is done 
enough (which will be known by feeling the fins, and 
the look of the fish) lay it to drain, put it in a hot fish- 
plate, and then in a warm dish, with the hver cut in 



FISH. 45 

ii.'iir, and laid on each side. Serve it np with slirimp 
or oyster-sauce, and garnish with scraped horse-radish. 

Salt Cod. 
Steep your salt fish in water all night, with a glass 
of vinegar thro^ni into it, with which take out the salt ; 
and make it as mild as fresh fish. The next day hoil it, 
and ^vhen it is enough, separate it in flakes into your 
dish. Then pour egg-sauce over it, or parsnips boiled 
and beat fine with butter and cream. As it will soon 
grow cold, send it to table on a water plate. 

Cod Sou7ids. 

Boil your sounds well, but be careful they are not 
done too much. Take them up, and let them stand till 
tliey are quite cold. Then make a forcemeat of chop- 
ped oysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, tlie 
yolks of two eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and fill 
your sounds with it. Sl^ewer them in the shape of a 
turkey, and lard them down each side, as you would 
the breast of a turkey. Dust them well with flour, and 
put them before the fire in a tin oven to roast. Baste 
them well with butter, and when enough, pour on them 
oyster-sauce, and garnish with barberries. This is a 
pretty side-dish for a large table ; or very proper in 
the time of Lent. 

Soles ^ 

Take a pair of soles, skin and gut them. Then 
wash them tlioroughly clean, and lay them in vinegar, 
salt and ^vater, for two hours ; then dry them in a cloth, 
put them into a stew-pan witii a pint of white wine, 
a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with six 
cloves, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Cover 
them quite close, and when enough, take them up, 
lay thein in your dish, strain the liquor, and thicken 
it with butter and flom\ Pour the sauce ovei', and 
garnish with scraped horse-radish and lemon. You 
may add prawns, shrimps, or muscles to your sauce, 
according to the fancy of those for whom you provide, 
This is a very good method ; but to make a a ariety, 
you may dress them as folio us : 



40 BOII.I/JG 

Take two or t'nree pair of midiUing sized soles, skin, 
gut, and wasli them iu sprinj^ water. Then put them 
on a disli, and pour halt' a pint of white wine over 
them, turn them two or three times in it, and then 
pour it away. Cut olf the heads and tails of the soles, 
and set on a stew-pan with a little rich lish broth ; 
put in an onion cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
pepper, salt, and a blade of mace. When these boil, 
put in the soles, and with them half a lemon cut in 
sHces with the peel on. Let them simmer slowly for 
some time, then take out the sweet herbs, and put in 
a pint of strong white wine, and a piece of butter rol- 
led in flour. Let them all simmer together till the 
soles are enough. While the fish are doing, put in half 
a pint of veal gravy, and a quarter of a pint of es.-'ence 
of ham, let it boil a little, then take up the sole.s, pud 
pour this over them. Serve up sauce as before di- 
rected, and garnish your dish with sliced lemon and 
horse-radish. 

Trout. 

Boil them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece 
of horse-radish ; and serve them jp with anchovy- 
sauce and plain butter. 

Pike, 

Whe> you have taken out the ^Jls and guts, and 
tlioroughly w^ashed it, make a good foi-cemeat of chop- 
ped oysters, the crumb of half a penny loaf, a litlJe 
lemon-peel shred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks ol 
two eggs, a few sweet herbs, and seasow them to your 
taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix all these 
well together, and put them into the belly of the fish, 
which must be sew^ed up, and skewered r*and. Boil 
it in hard water w ith a httle salt, and a tea-cup full of 
vinegar put into the pan. As soon as the water boils, 
put in the fish, (but not before,) and if it is of a middling 
size, it wdll be done in half an hour. Serve it up with 
oyster-sauce in a boat, having first poured a little on 
the fish. Garnish with pickled Ixirberries. 



FISH. 47 

Carp. 

When you kill your carp, save all the blood, and 
have ready some nice gravy, made of beef and mutton, 
seasoned \\'\i\\ pepper, salt, mace, and onion. Before 
you put in your fish, strain it off, and boil your carp be- 
fore you put it into the gravy. Set it on a slow fire about 
a quarter of an houi , and thicken the sauce with a large 
piece of butter rolled in flour ; or you may make your 
sauce thus : take the liver of the carp clean from the 
guts, three anchovies, a little parsley," thyme, and an 
onion. Cliop these small together, and take half a pint of 
Rhenish -wine, four spoonsful of vinegar, and the blood 
of the carp. When all these are stewed gently together, 
put it to the carp, Avhich must first be boiled in wa- 
ter with a little salt and a pint of wine ; but take care 
not to do it too much after the carp is put into the sauce. 

Mullets. 

These must be boiled in salt and water. When 
they are enough, pour away part of the water, and put 
to the rest a pint of red wine, some salt and vinegar, 
two onions sliced, with a bunch of sw^eet herbs, some 
nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil 
these well together, with two or three anchovies. Then 
put in the fish, and when they have simmered in it some 
time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce over 
them. You may add slmmp or oyster-sauce according 
to your discretion. 

Mackarel. 

Gut and Avash them clean, then dry them in a cloth, 
and rub them gently over with vinegar. Lay them 
strait on your fish plate, and be very careful in handling 
them, as they are so tender a fish that they will easily 
break. When the water boils, put them into your fish- 
pan with a little salt, and let them boil gently about a 
quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain 
them w^ell, and put the ^vater that runs from them into 
a sauce-pan with one large spoonful of catchup, a blade 
or two of mace, an anchovy, and a slice of lemon. I/Cl 



48 BOILING 

these all boil together ahoiit a quarter of an hour, then 
strain it throngli a hair sieve, and tliicken it ^vitli flonr 
and butter. Put this sauce in one boat, and melted but- 
ter and parsley in another. Dish u]) your fish with their 
tails in the middle ; and garnish with scraped horse- 
radish and barberries, Mackarel jnay be served Avith 
melted butter and a little fennel, cut fine, mixed ^^ ith 
scalded gooseberries ; also with sweet herbs, cut fine, 
in melted butter, with a little anchovy essence. 

Mackarel a-la Bourgeois. 
Split them open, put pepper, salt, mace, parsley, 
shalots, and bread crumbs, with some butter on them. 
You may either fiy or send them to the oven. Ser^ e 
them up with plain melted butter. 

Heri'ings. 
Scale, gut, and wash t.hen\, then dry them tho- 
rouglily in a cloth, and rub them over w ith a little salt 
and vinegar. Skewer their tails in then- mouths, and 
lay them on your fisli plate. When the water boils, put 
them in, and about ten or twelve minutes w ill do theiiK 
After you have taken them up, let them drain properly, 
and then turn their heads into the middle of the disli. 
Serve them up with melted butter and parsley, and gar- 
nish with scraped horse-radish. 

Flounders, Plaice, and Dabs. 
As the similarity of these fish is so great, the me- 
thod of dressing either must be the same. First cut off 
the fins, nick the brown side under the head, and take 
out the guts. Then dry them with a cloth, and boil 
them in salt and w^ater. Serve them up w ith shrimp, 
cockle, or muscle sauce, and garnish w^itli red cabbage. 

Pei^ch. 

Put your fish into the water when it boils, Avith some 
salt, an onion cut in shces, some parsley, and as much 
milk as w ill turn the water. When the fish is enough, 
put it into a soup-dish, and pom* a little of the water 
with the parsley and onions over it. SerA e it up Avith 
melted butter and parsley in a boat. 



FISH. 49 

Eels. 
After skinning, gutting, and properly washing 
l.heni, cut off their heads, dry them, and twist them 
round on your fish pkite. Boil them in salt and water, 
and serv-e them up witli melted butter and parsley. If 
you only boil them in such a quantity of water as will 
just cover them, the liquor will be exceeding good, and 
very beneficial to weak or consumptive constitutions. 

Sturgeon. 

When youliav^e cleaned your fish properly, prepare 
as much liquor as will boil it in the following manner 
To two quarts of water put a pint of vinegar, a stick 
of horse-radish, two or three bits of lemon-peel, some 
whole pepper, a bay-leaf, and a small quantity of salt. 
Boil your fish in this liquor, and when enough (which 
you will know by the flesh appearing likely to sepa- 
rate from the bones) take it up, and have ready the 
following sauce : Melt a pound of butter, dissolve an 
anchovy in it, put in a blade or two of mace, bruise the 
body of a crab in the butter, a few shrimps or cray-fish, 
a little catchup, and a little lemon-juice. When it 
boils, take up the sturgeon, drain it well, lay it in your 
dish, and serve it up with the sauce poured into boats. 
Garnish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and scraped 
horse-radish. 

Turtles. 

These animals not only furnish the most delicious 
repast to the epicure, but to all those who can obtain 
so luxurious a gratification. They are of various sizes, 
and that the reader may be informed how to dress 
them, Ave shall here confine ourselves to one of about 
eighty pounds weight. Take the turtle out of the Ava- 
ter the night before you intend to dress it. In the 
morning cut its throat, or the head off", and let it bleed 
for some time. Then cut off the fins ; scald, scale, and 
trim them and the head, and raise the callipee, Avhich is 
the belly or under shell; clean it well, leaving to it as 
much meat as you conveniently can. Take from the 
back shell all the mea<^ and entrails, except the mon- 

No. 3. G 



50 BOILING 

isieur, whicli is the fat, Jiiicl looks ^'cen : this .nnst also 
1)0 baked witli tlie sliell. Wash all clean with sail 
and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate size. 
Take it from the bones, and put them witii the fir.h 
and head into a soup-pot, with a gallon of water, some 
salt, and two blades of m<ice. When it boils, skim ii 
clean, and put in it a bimch of thyme, parsley, saxory, 
and yomig onions, andyoiir veal pait, except about one 
pound and a half, which must be made forcemeat of, as 
for Scotch collops, adding a little chyan pepper. Wlieii 
the veal is boiled in the soup about an hour, take it 
out, cut it into pieces, and put to the other part. The 
guts, which are considered as the best part, must be 
split open, scraped, and made clean, and cut into pieces 
about two inches long. Scald and skin tlie paimch or 
maw, and cut it like the other parts; mix them with 
the guts and other parts, except the liver, and add half 
a pound of fresh butter, a few shalots, a bimch of thyme, 
parsley, and a little savory, seasoned ^^ ith salt, white 
pepper, mace, three or four cloves beaten, and a little 
chyan pepper. Stew them about half an hour over a 
good charcoal ftre, and put in half a ])int of Madeira 
>vine, with as much of the broth as will coxer it, and 
let it stew till tender, wliich will take about four or five 
hours. When it is nearly enough, skim it, thicken it 
with flour, and some veal broth, and make it about th^.? 
thickness of a fricasee. Let your forcemeat balls be 
fi"ied about the size of a walnut, and stewed about hali 
an hour with the rest. If there are any eggs, let them 
be boiled and cleaned : but if none, get twelve or four- 
teen yolks of hard eggs. Then put the steAV (which 
is the callipash) into the shell with the eggs, and either 
make use of a salamander, or put it into the oven to 
hake. Slash the callipee in several places, put some 
hnfter to it, and season it moderately with chyan and 
'Ahite pepper, salt, beaten mace, chopped thyme, pars- 
ley, and young onions. Put a piece on each slash, and 
some over the whole, and a dust of flour : then bake 
it in a brisk oven, in a tin or iron dripping-pan. The 
back shell, which is called the callip.'ish. must be sea- 



PISH. 51 

soned like the callipee, and baked in a dripping-pan, 
set upright, with four brick-bats, or any thing of that 
kind. An hoiu* and a half will bake it, which must 
be done before the stew be put in. The fins, whcii 
boiled very tender, must be taken out of the soup, arui 
put into a stew-pan, with some good veal gravy, p.ot 
lu'gh coloured, a little Madeira wine, seasoned and 
thickened as the callipash, and served in a dish by 
itself The lights, heart, and liver, may be done tlic 
same way, but a little higher seasoned ; or the lights 
and heart may be stewed with the callipash, and taken 
out before you put it into the shell, with a little of the 
sauce, addhig a little more seasoning ; but dish it ]jy 
itself The veal part may be made fricandos, or Scotci) 
coUops. The liver should never be stewed with the 
callipash, but dressed by itself in any manner you like ; 
except you separate the hghts and heart from the cal- 
lipash, and serve them together in one dish. Be care- 
ful to strain the soup, and serve it in a tureen, or large 
china bowl. The different dishes may be placed on 
the table as follows : The callipee at the head, the cal- 
lipash at the bottom, and the lights, soup, fins, &c. in 
the centre. — The fins kept in the liquor wiU eat well 
when cold. 

Court Bouillon f 07' all Jcinds of fresh Fish. 

Put into your fish kettle, Avliich must be according 
to the size of your fish, some water, a quart of white 
wine, a bit of butter, salt, pepper, a faggot of sweet 
herbs, some stewed onions and carrots : lx>il your fish 
in tlMS Dquor. 
5 



52 

CHAPTER III. 

ROASTIJYG IJV GENERAL. 

SECT. I 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

THE first consideration of the cook in roasting mi si 
be to regulate tlie strength of lier fire in proportion ic 
the article she has to dress. If it is a small or thin 
joint, the fire must be brisk, that it may be done quicli: ; 
bnt if a large one, a substantial fire must be made, in 
order that it may gradually receive the heat, and by 
stirring up the fire, when it begins to bm'n up, and 
keeping the bottom clear, the meat must be roasted 
as it ought to be, and with little trouble to the cook. 
Never put salt on your meat before you lay it to the 
fire, as it will be apt to draw out the gi'a^y. In roast- 
ing Beef, if it be a large piece, skewer a sheet of writ- 
ing paper over the fat, and baste it well while roasting. 
When it is near enough, which you will know by the 
smoke drawing to the fire, take oft' the paper, then 
baste it well and dredge it with flour to make it frothy. 
Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a clear quick 
fire. Veal requires particular care, and must be done 
of a fine light brown colour. If it is a fillet or loin, put 
paper over the fat, in the same manner as you do beef. 
At first let it be some distance from the fire, and baste 
it with butter : but when it is got thoroughly warm 
put it nearer, and when nearly done, dredge it Avith 
flour. If a breast, put the caul over it, with the sweet- 
bread skewered on the back, and, when sufficiently 
done, take off the caul and dredge it with flour. Pork 
well as Veal should be well done, otherwise it will 
AHuseate : but mutton and beef, if a little underdone, 
may be dispensed with. Wild Fotvls must be roast- 
ed with a clear, brisk fire, and when they are frothy, 
suid of a light brown colour, they are enough. Great 



ROASTING MEAT. 63 

care must be taken not to overdo them as the loss of 
gravy will prochice a want of the flavour. Tame 
folds requh'e more roasting, and must be often basted, 
in order to keep up a strong froth, wliich will make 
them look well when brought to table. Pigs and 
Geese must be done vrith a quick hre, turned quick, 
and frequently basted. Hares and Rabbits require 
time and care, otherwise the body will be done too 
much, and the ends too little. In roasting any article, 
always allow longer time for it in frosty than in mild 
weather, and take particular care that yom' spits are 
thoroughly clean before you put on your meat, as no- 
thing is more disagreeable than the mark of it left in 
the flesh. 

Having laid before the cook these necessary and gen- 
neral observations in roasting, we shall now proceed to 
give directions for dressing the respective articles un- 
der this head ; beginning with 

Beef. 

The first steps to be taken in roasting Beef we have 
akeady noticed in the foregoing observations. It re- 
mains, therefore, only to say, that the time each joint 
will take doing mast be proportioned to its weight. If 
a piece often pounds, it will take an hour and a half at 
a good fne. Twenty pounds weight, if a thick piece, 
will take three hours, but if thin, half an horn- less ; and 
so on in proportion to the weight. When done, take it 
up, and put it into your dish. Serve it with potatoes, 
horse-radish, and pickles for sauce, and garnish th3 rim 
of the dish with horse-radish scraped very fine. 

Mutton and Lamb. 

Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a quick 
clear fire. Baste it as soon as you lay it down, sprinkle 
on a little salt, and when near done, dredge it with 
flour. A leg of mutton of six pounds will take an hour 
and a quarter, and one of twelve tw o hours ; a breast 
half an hovn* at a quick fire ; a neck an hour, and a shoul • 
der much about the same time as a leg. In dress- 



64 ROASTING 

ing the loin, the chine (which is the two loins) and the 
saddle (which is the two necks and part of the shoulders 
cut together) you must raise the skin, and skewer iton, 
and when near done, take off the skin, and baste it to 
froth it up. Send some good plain gravy up with it. 

Haunch of Mutton dressed like Venison. 

Take a hind-quarter of fine mutton, stale killed, and 
cut tlie leg like a haunch. Lay it in a pan with the back 
downwards, pour in a bottle of red wine, and let the 
meat soak in it twenty-four hours. Before you spit it, 
let it be covered with clean paper and paste as you do 
venison, in order to preserve the fat. Roast it before a 
quick lire, and keep basting with butter mixed w ith 
some of the liquor in which it w^as soaked. When done, 
serve it up with some good rich gravy in one boat, and 
sweet sauce in another. It will take about three hours 
roasting. 

A Fore-quarter of House Lamb. 

A small fore-quarter of house-lamb will take an liour 
and a half roasting ; a leg three quarters of an horn*. 
When it is done, and put into the dish, cut off the 
shoulder, and pepper and salt the ribs. Serve it up 
with salad, broccoli, potatoes, or mint sauce. 

Tongues or Udders. 

Parboil the tongue before you put it down to 
roast ; stick eight or ten cloves about it, baste it with 
butter, and serve it up w ith some gravy and sweet- 
meat sauce. An udder may be roasted after the same 
manner. You may also lard the tongue nicely, bu( 
take care that the fu-e does not burn the larding. 

Veal. 

If your fu*e is good, veal will take about a quarter of 
an hour to each pound in roasting. The ^-xi of the loin 
and fillet must l>e covered wnth paper, as w^e have be- 
fore observed. The fillet and shoulder must be stuffed 
«vith the following savoury composition : a quarter of a 



M£AT. 55 

pound of suet chopped fine, parsley and sweet herbs 
chopped, 2^'ated bread, and lemon peel ; pepper, .salt, 
and a little nutmeg, and the yolk of an cg;g;. Work 
these all well together, and stuff them into your veal 
as secm*e as you can, that it may not fall out while 
roasting. The breast must be roasted with the cavil 
on till it is near enough ; then take it off, and flour and 
baste the meat. When you have taken it up, and put 
it into your dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and 
serve it up with any of the following sauces ; potatoes, 
brocoli, cucumbers stewed, French beans, peas, cauli- 
flowers, celery stewed. Remember in dressing any 
joint of veal that it is well done, but at the same time 
let it not be too much. If it is not done enough it will 
be too disgustful to enjoy, and if too much, the juices 
vyill be lost, and the flesh eat tasteless. 

Pork. 

Pork, like veal, must be well done. If it is a loin, 
take a sharp penknife, and cut the skin across, which 
will not only make tlie joint more convenient to carve, 
but will also make tlie rind or crackling more pleasant 
to eat. A leg of pork must be scored in the same man- 
ner as the loin; if not particularly objected to, stuil 
the knuckle part with sage and onion chopped fine, 
with pepper and salt : or cut a hole under the twist, 
put the seasoning there, and fasten it with a skewer. 
Roast it crisp, as it will make the crackling, of whicli 
most people are fond, eat the better. If yon want a 
Spring, (which is not very common, though, at the 
same time, if young, will eat exceeding well,) cut off 
the shank, or knuckle, sprinkle sage and onion over it, 
roll it round, and tie it with a string. About two 
hours will do it. The Spare-i^ib shonld be basted 
with a little bit of butter, a very little dust of flour, and 
some dried sage shred small. The principal sauces for 
any kind of roast pork are, potatoes, mustard, and 
apple sance, the latter of which you must make tlius . 
P(u*e, core, and slice some apples, and put them into a 
ssauce-pan wirh a little water, to prevent tlieir biu'n- 
5* 



^6 ROASTING 

ing, and throw in a bit oi' icmon-peel. When tliet 
are enough, take out the peel, bruise the apples, and 
add a piece of butter and a little sugar. When yon 
have worked the whole together very line, set it on the 
fire till it is qnite hot, then put it into your basin, and 
serve it up with the meat. If it is a leg of pork, have 
a little drawn gi'avy ready against it is done, and ])oi{r 
it into the dish when you serve it up. The best way 
of dressing Pork Griskin is to roast it, baste it with 
a little butter and sage, and a little pepper and salt. 
The only article used as sauce for this is mustard. 

Slicking Pigs 

When your pig is properly prepared for dressing, 
;Qnt into the belly of it a little sage shredded fine, with 
aome salt, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, and a crust 
of brown bread. Then spit it, sew up the belly, and 
lay it down to a brisk clear fii'e, with a pig-plate hung 
in the middle to prevent the body part being done be- 
fore the extremities. As soon as it is warm, put a 
piece of butter into a cloth, and frequently rub the pig 
with it while roasting. When it becomes of a fine 
brown, and the steam draAvs to the fire, rub it quite 
dry with a clean cloth, and then Avith a bit of cold but- 
ter, which will help to crisp it. Having taken it up, 
and put it into your dish, cut off the head with a sharp 
knife, and take off the collar, the ears, and the jaw- 
bone. Split the jaw in two, and when you have cut 
the pig down the back, which must be done before you 
draw out the spit, lay the two sides with the back part 
to each other, a jaAV on each side, and an ear on each 
shoulder, and the collar on the shoulder. Have rea- 
dy your sauce, Avhich you must make in the following 
manner : Having chopped the brains, put them in a 
saucepan, with a tea-spoonful of white gra^y, the gravy 
that runs out of the pig, (which you must be carefiil to 
save, by putting a basin or pan in the dripping-pan 
under the pig as soon as the gravy begins to run,) and 
a small piece of anchovy. Add to these half a pound 
of butter, and as much flour as will thicken the gravy. 



MEAT. 67 

a slice of lemon, a spoonful of white wine, some caper 
liquor, and. a little salt. Sliake it over the fire till it 
is quite hot, then pour it into your dish with the pig, 
and serve it up. You may likewise boil a few currants, 
and send them in a tea-saucer, with a glass of currant 
jelly in the middle. 

As there may sometimes be a necessity for the cook's 
killing the pig herself, it may not be improper to inform 
her in that case how to proceed. Stick the pig just 
above the breast-bone, and let the knife touch its heart, 
otherwise it will be a long time dying. As soon as it 
is dead, put it into cold water for a few minutes, and 
rub it over with a little rosin beat exceeding fine, or 
instead of that use its own blood, which will nearly 
answer the same purpose. Let it lie half a minute in 
a pail of scalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a 
clean table, and. strip oft" all the hairs as fast as possible ; 
but if they do not come clean off, put it into the hot 
water again, and when it is perfectly clean off, wash it 
in warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, 
that, Avhen dressed, it may not taste of the rosin. Take 
off the four feet at the first joints, slit it down the belly, 
and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver, 
lights, and pettitoes together ; wash the pig well in cold 
water, and having perfectly dried it with a cloth, hang 
it up. When you dress it, proceed asbefoie directed. 

Calf's Head. 

When you have thoroughly washed, and cleansed 
it from tlie slime, take out the bones, and dry it well 
in a cloth. Make a seasoning of beaten mace, pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, and cloves, some bacon cut very small, 
and some grated bread. Strew this over the head, roll 
it up, skewer it, and tie it with tape. While roast- 
ing, baste it with butter, and when done, having pre- 
viously made a rich veal gravy, thickened witli butter 
rolled in flom-, pom- it over, and serve it to table. Some 
like mushroom sauce, in which case make it as fol- 
lows : Clean and wash a quart of fresh mushrooms, 
cut them into pieces, and put them into -i stcAv-pan, 

No. 3. n 



58 ROASTING 

with a little salt, a blade of mace, and a little butter. 
Stew them gently for half an hour, and then add a 
pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs beaten up fnie . 
keep stirring it till it boils, then pour it into a boat, 
and vserve it up with the head. This is an excellent 
sauce for fowls or turkeys. 

Ham, or Ga^imon of Bacon. 

Whichever you dress of these, take off the skin 
or rind, and lay the meat in hike-warm water for two 
or three hours. Then put it into a pan, pour over it 
a quart of Canary wine, and let it soak about half an 
hour. When you have spitted it, put a sheet of clean 
paper over the fat side, pom- the Canary, in which it 
was soaked, into the dripping-pan, and baste the meat 
with it all the time it is roasting. W^hen it is enough, 
take off the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled 
bread and parsley shred fine. Make the fii'e brisk, and 
brown it well. If you serve it up hot, garnish with 
raspings of bread ; but if cold for a second course, gar- 
nish w itli green parsley. 



SECT. II. 
ROASTING POULTRY. 

Tu7'keys. 

When your Turkey is properly trussed for dress- 
ing, stuff it with the following ingredients : Take foia* 
ounces of butter, or chopped suet, some grated bread, 
a little lemon peel, parsley, and sweet herbs cIiopj)cd 
together, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a little cream, and 
the yolks of two or three eggs; work these all well to- 
gether, and fill the craAV witli it. Let your fire be very 
brisk, and when you put it down paper the breast, antl 
let it continue on till near done ; then take it off, dredge 
it with flour, and keep basting it till it is done. If it is 
a large tui'key, serve it up with gravy alone, or brown 
celery, or mus^lu'ooui sauce. If it is a turkey-poult, 



POULTRY. 59 

serve it up wdth gravy and bread sauce, the latter oi 
which make thus : Cut the crumby part of a penuy 
loaf into thin slices, put it into a saucepan with cold 
water, a few pepper corns, a little salt, and an onion : 
boil it till the bread is quite soft, and then beat it \ ery 
hue : put it into a quarter of a pound of butter, witii 
two spoonsful of thick cream, and when it boils up, 
pour it into a basin, or boat, and serve it up with the 
turkey. A middling sized tmkey will take more than 
an hour, a small one three quarters of an horn*, and a 
very large one an hour and a half In dressing these, 
as well as fowls, always let your fu'e be clear and 
brisk. 

Folds. 

When your fowls are laid to the fire, singe them, 
then baste them with butter, and dredge over some 
flour. When the smoke begins to dra# to the fire, 
baste and dredge them again : let the fire be brisk, 
and send them to table with a good froth. The pro- 
per sauces for roast fowls are, gravy, egg, muslnroom, 
or celery-sauce, the latter of which make thus : Wash 
and pare a large bunch of celery very clean, cut it into 
thm bits, and boil it gently in a little water till it is 
tender : then add a little beatcji mace, nutmeg, pep- 
per, and salt, and thicken it with a large piece of but- 
ter rolled in flour : then give it a boil, and serve it up in 
a boat. To tlie water in which you boil the celery 
put a half pint of cream, wliich will make it very rich 
and substantial. This is an excellent sauce, not only 
■for fowls but also for partridges, or any other game of 
the same kind. 

Chickens, 

Be particularly careful in drawing your chickens, 
which done, cut ofl" their claws, and truss them for 
dressing. Put them down to a good fire, and singe, 
dust, and baste them with butter. When they are 
enough, fi-oth them, and lay them in yom* dish. Serve 
tliem UD with parsley and butter poured over them, and 



60 hOASTING 

gi'avy and mushroom sauce in boats. A large chicJker 
will take lialf.in hour, a small one twenty minutes. 

Green Geese. 

When the goose is properly cleaned, and ready for 
dressing, put into tliehody a large lump of butter, then 
«<pit it, and lay it down to a brisk clear fire. Singe it, 
dredge it with flour, and as soon as it begins to receive 
the heat of the fire, baste it Avell with butter, which 
will occasion the flesh to rise, and make it look well. 
When you think it near enough, dredge it again ^^ itli 
flour ; and baste it till the froth rises, and it is of a clear 
light brown. When done, take it up, and put it into 
your dish, having ready the following sauce • Melt 
some butter, and put it into a spoonful of sorrel juice, a 
little sugar, and a few scalded gooseberiies. Pour it 
into your sapce-boat, and send it up hot with the goose 
to table. You may likewise add gi'avy and apple- 
sauce, and garnish yom* dish with a crust of bread gra- 
ted very fine. 

^ Stubble Goose 

Take two onions, with a few leaves of sage Avash- 
ed clean, and chop them as fine as possible. Mix with 
them a large piece of butter, some salt, and pepper. 
Put this into the body of the goose, then tie both ends, 
and put it down to the fire to roast. Singe and dredge it 
with flour, and when it is thoroughly hot, baste it with 
fresh butter. When near done dredge it again, 
and keep basting it till the froth rises, and the steam 
draws to the fire, then take it up, and put it into your 
dish, pour a little boiling hot water over it, and serve 
it up with good gravy-sauce in one boat, a])ple-sauce 
in another, and mustard. 

Ducks. 

You must prepare them for the spit in the same 
manner you do geese, by putting into the body some 
sage and onion chopped fine, wuth pepper and salt. 
When you lay them down, singe, dust, and baste theip 



POULTRY. 6i 

with butter, and a good fire will roast them in about 
twenty minutes. Before you take them up, dust them 
with flour, and give them another hasting with butter 
to make tliem froth and look brown. Your gra^y 
must be made of the gizzard and pinions, with an onion, 
a tea-spoonfnl of Icmon-piclde, a few grains of pepper, 
a large blade of mace, and a tea-spoonful of catsup. 
When they are thorouglily stev>'^ed, strain off the gravy, 
put some into the dish with the ducks, and the remain- 
der in a boat or basin. Wild ducks must be done in 
the same manner. 

Pigeons. 
After you have drawn your Pigeons, and taken the 
craws clean out, w^ash them in several waters. When 
you have dried them, roll a good lump of butter in some 
chopped parsley, and season it witli pepper and salt. 
Put this into your pigeons, tlien spit, dust with flour, 
and baste them. When enough, serve them up with 
parsley and butter for sauce, and, if in season, garnish 
yoiu* disli Avith bunches of asparagus. A good fire will 
••oast them in twenty minutes. 

Larks. 

Take a dozen of Larks, put them on a skewer, and 
tie both ends of the skewer to the spit. Dredge and 
baste them, and in about ten or twelve minutes tliey 
will be done. Make your sauce thus : take the crumb 
of half a penny loaf, slu'ed it very fine, and put it into 
a stew-pan or frying pan, with a piece of butter about 
the size of a walnut. Shake it over a gentle fire till 
it is of a light brown, then lay it between your birds on 
your plate or dish, and pour a little melted butter over 
them. 

Rabbits. 

When you have cased your rabbits, skewer their 
heads upon their backs, their fore legs into their ribs, 
and the hind legs double. Take the crumb of half a 
penny loaf, a little parsley, thwie, swcet-marjoruui, and 
lemon-peel. Shred all these fine, and season them A^ith 
pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Mix them up into a light 



02 ROASTING 

stiifling with two eggs, a little cream, and a quarter of 
a j>ound of butter. Put this into their bellies, sew 
tiicin lip, and dredge and baste them well with butter. 
When done, take tliem up, chop the livers after boil- 
ing, and lay them in lumps round the edge of your dish. 
Serve them up with parsley and butter for sauce. 

To roast a rabbit hare fashion, you must lard it with 
bacon, and baste it in the same manner you do a hare, 
directions for which you will fmd in the next section. 
If you lard it, make gravy sauce; if not, white sauce 
will be most proper. 



SECT. III. 

ROASTING GAME. 

Pheasants and Partridges. 

The same methods are to be taken in dressing ei- 
ther of these birds. When you have spitted and laid 
them down, dust them with flour, and baste them often 
uitii fresh butter, keeping them at a good distance 
from the lire. About half an hour will roast them. 
Make your gravy of a scrag of mutton, and put into 
the sauce-pan Avith it a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, 
a large spoonful of catsup, and the same of brown- 
ing.* Strain it, and put a little into the dish witli the 
birds. Serve them up with the remainder in one ba- 

*As we shall have frequent occasion to mention the article oiown- 
iNG, it will be necessary here to give proper directions how to nialce 
it. — Beat small four ounces of treble refined sugar, and put it info a 
Irving pan with one ounce of bitter. — Set it over a clear fire, and mix 
it well together. When it begins to be frothy by the sugar dissolving, 
hold it higher over the fire, and have ready a pint of red wine. ^^ hen 
the sugar and butter is of a deep brown, pour in a Kttle of the wine, 
and stir it well together ; then add more wine, and keep stirring it all 
the time. Put in half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, six cloves, four 
.-halots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three spoonsful of 
catsup, a little salt, and a rind of one lemon. Boil them slowly abouf 
ten m'nutcs, and then pour it into a basin. When cold, take off the 
seutr very clean, aiul botde it up for use. 



GAME. (53 

sin, and bread sauce in another. By way of ornament 
fLK one of tlie principal feathers of the pheasant in its 
tail. 

Woodcocks or Snipes, 
These birds are so peculiar from all others, that 
they must never be drawn. When you have spitted 
them, take the round of a threepenny loaf, and toast 
it nice and brov n ; then lay it in a dish, mider the 
birds, and when }ou put them to the hre, baste them 
witli a little butter, and let the trail or gut drop on the 
toast. When tliey are done, put the toast in a dish, 
and lay the birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint 
of gravy into the dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing- 
dish for three or four minutes, and then take it liot to 
table. A woodcock will take about twenty minutes 
roasting, and a snipe fifteen. 

Hares. 

When your hare is cased and properly trussed for 
dressing, make a stuffing thus : Take a large slice of 
bread, and crumble it very fine, put to it a quarter of 
a pound of beef marrow, or suet, the like quantity of 
butter, the liver boiled and shred fine, a sprig or two of 
winter savory, a bit of lemon-peel, an anchovy, a little 
chyan pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. MLx: these 
well together ^vitli a glass of red wine and two eggs, 
put it into the belly of the hare and sew it up. When 
you have spitted it, and laid it before the fii'e, put into 
yonr dripping-pan a quart of milk, and keep basting 
your hare with it till there is little left. W^hen it is 
nearly done, dredge it with flour, and baste it witli but- 
ter till it is properly frothed. If it is a small hare it 
will take about an hour and a half; and if a large one 
two hours. When done, put it into your dish, and 
serve it up with plenty of good rich gi'avy, and some 
currant-jelly warmed in a cup ; or red wine and sugar 
done to a syrup thus : Take a pint of red wine, put it 
into a quarter of a pound of sugar, set it over a slow 
fire, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour ; then 
take it off, and pour it into your sauce-lwat or basin- 
G 



04 ROASTING FISH. 

Venison. 
Take a haunch of venison, and when you have 
spitted it, rub some butter all over it. Take ibui 
.sheets of clean paper, well buttered, two of which put 
on the haunch. Then make a paste with some flour, 
a little butter and ^\ ater ; roll it out half as big as your 
hainich, and put it over the fat part ; cover this with 
the other tvk^o sheets of paper, and tie them ftist ^^ith 
packthread. Lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well 
all the time it is roasting. When it is near done, take 
off both paper and paste, dredge it well with flour, 
and baste it with butter. As soon as it becomes of a 
light brown, take it up, and serve it to table with 
brown gravy, currant-jelly, or the syrup mentioned 
in the preceding article for a hare. A haunch will 
take about three hours roasting. 



SECT. IV. 

ROASTING FISH. 

To roast Sturgeon. 
Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into a stew-pan, 
with salt, pepper, parsley, onions, sweet herbs, cloves, 
half a pint of water, and a little vinegar. Stir it over the 
fire, and when it is luke-warm take it off", and put your 
stiu'geon in to steep. When it has taken the flavour 
of the herbs, roast it, and serve it up with any vege 
table sauce you think fit. 

Roasted en Gras. 

Lard it with fat bacon, roast it, and serv^e it wit? 
a ragout of truffles, morels, mushrooms, veal, sweet 
bread, &lc. 

Lobsters. 

When you have half boiled your lobster take it 
out of the water, rub it well ^^ ith butter, and lay it 
before the fire : continue basting it with butter till it 
has a fine froth, and the shells look of a dark bro^^•Tl. 
Then put it into your dish, and serve it up with plain 
melted butter ii a sauce-boat. 



CHAPTER IV. 

B A K I JV" G. 

SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

""l HE only method to be observed previous to this 
mode of cookery, is to have the pans, or wliatever 
vessels you send your provisions in to the oven, per- 
fectly clean, so that the care you have taken in pre- 
paring the article may not be injured from neglect in 
cieanliness. 

Rump of Beef a-la-Braise. 

Cut out the bone quite clean, then beat the flesh 
well with a rolling-pin, and lard it with a piece of 
bacon cut out of the back. Season your bacon with 
pepper, salt, and cloves, and lard across the meat, 
that it may cut handsomer. Season the meat with 
pepper, salt, and cloves ; put it into an earthen pot 
with all tl e broken bones, half a pound of butter, 
some bay leaves, whole pepper, one or two shalots, 
and some sweet herbs. Let the top of the pan be 
covered quite close, then put it into the oven, and it 
will be done in about six liours. When enough, skim 
oir tlie fat clean, put the meat into a dish, and serve 
it up with a good ragout of mushrooms, truffles, force- 
meat-balls, and yelks of eggs. Let the gravy ^vhich 
comes from the beef be added, nicely seasoned, to 
those ingredients. 

Calf's Head. 

When you have properly cleansed the head, put 
it into a large earthen dish, or pan, and rub the inside 
■svith butter. Put some long iron skewers across the 
top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Grate 
some nutmeg all over the head, with a few sweet 
herbs shred small, s>>me crumbs of bread, and a little 
lemon-peel cut fuie. Then flour it all over, stick 

No 3 1 



GG BAKING MEAT. 

pieces of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of 
the head, and send it to the oven. You may throw 
a Httlc pepper and salt over it, and put itito the dish 
a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a blade of mace, 
some Avhole pepper, two cloves, and a pint of water, 
and boil the brains a\ ith some sage. When the head 
is enough, lay it on a dish, and put it before the tire 
to keep warm ; tlien stir all together in the dish, and 
put it into a gauccpan, and when it is quite hot strain 
it off, and pour it into the saucepan again. Put in a 
piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage and brains 
chopped fine, a spoonful of catsup, and two of red 
wine. Boil them well together, pour the whole over 
the head in a dish, and send it to table. 

Pigs. 

Lay your pig into a dish well buttered, flour it all 
over, rub some butter on the pig, and send it to the 
oven. When you think it is enough, take it out, rub 
it over with a buttered cloth, and put it into the oven 
again till it is dry ; then take it out, lay it in a dish, 
and cut it up. Skim oft' the fat from the dish it was 
baked in, and some good gravy will remain at the 
bottom. Put this to a little veal gravy, with a piece 
of butter rolled in flour, and boil it iip Avitli the brains ; 
then pour it into a dish, and mix it well with the 
sage that comes out of the belly of the pig. Serve it 
up hot to table with apple-sauce and mustard. 

A Bullock's or Calfs Heart. 

Take some crumbs of bread, chopped suet, (or a 
bit of butter,) parsley chopped, sweet mar jorum, le- 
mon-peel grated, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, with the 
yolk of an eg^ ; mix these aU well together, stulf the 
heart with it, and send it to the oven. When done, 
serve it up with gra\7^, melted butter, and currant • 
jelly in boats. The same methods are to be used 
whether you bake or roast it; but if care is taken, 
bailing it is the best Avay, as it will be more regularly 
done than it can be by roasting. 



BAKING FISH. 67 

SECT. II. 
BAKING FISH. 

Cod's Head. 

When it is thoroughly cleanseii and washed, .ay 
II a the dish, Avhich you must fii'st rub round with 
bittter. Put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck 
with cloves, three or four blades of mace, some black 
and white pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a little lemon- 
peel, a piece of horse-radish, and a quart of water. 
Dust the head with flour, grate a little nutmeg over 
it, stick bits of butter on various parts, and sprinkle 
raspings all over it, and send it to the oven. When 
done, take the head out of the dish, and put it into 
that it is to be served up in. Set the dish over boil- 
ing water, and cover it close to prevent its getting 
cold. In the mean time, as expeditiously as you can, 
pour all tlie liquor out of the dish in which it was 
baked into a saucepan, and let it boil three or four 
minutes : then strain it, and put to it a gill of red 
wine, two spoonsful of catsap, a pint of shrimps, half 
a pint of oysters, a spoonfid of mushroom pickle, and 
a quartern of butter rolled in flour. Stu* all ^vell to- 
gether, and let it boil till it is thick ; then strain it, 
and pour it into the dish. Have ready some toasted 
bread cut tlu-ee corner ways, and fi'ied crisp. Stick 
some pieces of toast about the head and mouth, and 
lay the remainder round the head. Garnish your dish 
with crisped parsley, lemon notched, and scraped 
horse-radish. This method is equally good for 



roastmg. 



Salmon 



Take a piece of salmon, of five or six pounds 
weight, (or larger according to your company,) and 
cut it into slices about an inch thick, after which 
make a forcemeat thus : Take some of the flesh of the 
salmon, and the same quantity of the meat of an eel. 



68 BAKING 

with a few miishrooiris. Season it w itli pepper, salt, 
nutmeg, and cloves, and beat all together till it is very 
fine. Jioil the crumb of a roll in milk, and beat it iij) 
with four eggs till it is thick ; then let it cool, add 
four more raw eggs to it, and mix the whole well to- 
gether. Take the skin from the salmon, and lay tlie 
slices ii: a dish. Cover every slice Avith the forcemeat, 
pour some melted butter over them, with a few crimibs 
of bread, and place oysters round the dish. Put it into 
the oven, and when it is of a fme brown, pour over a 
little melted butter with some red wine boiled in it, 
and the juice of a lemon, and serve it up hot to table 

Carp. 

Take a brace of carp, and having gi'eased the pan, 
•n which they are to be baked, w ith butter, put them 
tnto it. Let it be of such a size as will hold them at 
full length, otherwise they w ill be apt to break. When 
you have put them into the pan, season them with a 
little black and white pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
a bunch of sw^eet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy : 
then pour in a bottle of Avhite wine, cover them close, 
and put them into the oven. If of a large size they 
will take an horn- baking ; but if small, a less time will 
do. When enough, take them out of the pan, and 
lay them in a dish. Set it over boiling water to keep 
it hot, and cover it close. Pour all the liquor in which 
they Avere baked into a saucepan ; let it boil a minute 
or tAvo, strain it, and add half i pound of butter roll- 
ed in flour. Keep stirring it all tlie time it is boiling ; 
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and put in a pro- 
per quantity of salt, observing to skim all the fat olT 
the liquor. Pour the sauce ovtr the fish, lay the roes 
round them, and garnish vdi\\ lemon. 

Eels and LaQiij^reys. 

Cut off' their heads, gut them, and take out the 
blood from the bone as clean as possible. ]\Iake a 
forcemeat of shrimps or oysters chopped small, half a 
penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the 



FISH. 69 

yolks of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nut- 
meg. Put this into the bellies of the fish, sew them 
up, and turn them round on the dish. Put flour and 
butter over them, pour a little water into the disli, 
and bake them in a moderate oven. When done, 
take tiie gravy from under them, and skim off the fat, 
strain it through a hair sieve, and add one tea-spoon- 
ful of lemon-pickle, two of browning, a large spoonful 
of walnut catsup, a glass of white wine, an anchovy, 
and a slice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and 
thicken it with butter and flour. Garnish with lemon 
and crisped parsley. 

Herrings 

Scale, wasli, and dry them well in a cloth, then 
lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper, a 
few cloves, and plenty of salt ; mix them together, and 
rub the iish all over with it. Lay them straight in a 
pot, cover them over v.'ith vinegar, put in a few bay- 
leaves, tie a strong paper over the top, and bake them 
in a moderate oven. They may be eat either hot or 
cold ; and if you use the best vinegar, they will keep 
good for two or three months. 

Sjn^ats may be done in the same manner, and either 
of them will furnish an occasional and pleasing relish. 

Tiwbot. 

Take a dish about the size of the turbot, rub but- 
ler thick all over it, throw on a little salt, a little bea- 
ten pepper, half a large nutmeg, and some parsley 
cliopped fine. Pour in a pint of Avhite wine, cut oil 
the head and tail, and lay the turbot in the dish: pour 
another pint of white wine all over, gi'ate the other 
half of the nutmeg over it, a httle pepper, some salt, 
and chopped parsley. Lay a piece of butter here and 
there all over, then strew it with flour and crumbs ol 
bread, Being thus prepared, send it to the oven, and 
let it be done of a line brown colour. When you take 
it out, or have it home, put the turbot into the dish in 
which you mean to serve it up, then stir the sauce in 



70 BAKING FISH. 

the disli it was baked in, pour it into a saucepan, 
shake in a little flour, let it boil, and then stir in a 
piece of butter with two spoonsful of catsup. When 
the whole boils, pour it into basins, and serve it up 
\vith the iish. Garnish your dish with lemons ; and you 
may add what other sauce you fancy, as shrimps, an- 
chovies, mushrooms, &c. 

Pike, with forcemeat. 

Prepare your pike thus : — Gut it, without cut- 
ting it open, and take care it is well cleaned. Cut a 
notch down the back from head to tail, turn it round, 
and fasten the tail in the mouth. Make your force- 
meat thus : Take the udder of a leg of veal, or the 
kidney part of a loin of lamb, some fat bacon cut in 
dice, the spawn or melt of the fish, some gi'een onions, 
a mushroom or tw o, or truffles, parsley and salt, and a 
little nutmeg and pepper : add a bit of butter to fry 
it : chop it all well, with the crumb of a French roll 
soaked in cream or milk. Pound all together in a 
large mortar, with three or four eggs ; try if it is sea- 
soned to your mind, fill the belly of your fish with it, 
close up that part which was cut in the back, and make 
it nice and even. Then take two or three eggs, beat 
them up, daub the fish well over with it, and strew on 
some crumbs of bread. Put it in a gentle oven, and 
proportion the time according to the size of your fish. 
When done use the following sauce : take two or three 
ladles of good gravy, and add to it three large spoons- 
fiil of whole capers, some parsley chopped fine, the 
juice of two lemons, and a little minced shalot. Pour 
this into a boat or basin, and serve it up hot with 
your fish. Garnish with fried parsley. A piper may 
be baked the same as the pike. 

Mackarcl. 

Cut their heads off, w*ash and dry them m a cloth, 
cut them open, rub the bone with a little bay-salt, 
beat fine : take some mace, black and white pepper, 
and a few cloves, all beat fine ; lay them m a long 



BROILING MEAT, c^'C. 7 

pan, and between evevj layer offish put two or three 
bay leav'cs, and cover them with vinegar. Tie writing 
paper over tliem first, and then thick brown papei* 
doviblcd. Tliey mnst be put into a very slo\v oven, 
and will take a long time doing. When they are 
enough, uncover them, and let them stand till they 
are cold, then pour away all the vinegar they are 
boiled in, cover them with some more vinegar, and put 
in an onion stuck with cloves. Send them to a vei-y 
slow oven again, and let them stand two hours. When 
completely done, put them aside, and they will keep 
good a considerable time. When you take them out, 
let it be with a slice, as your hands will be apt to 
break and spoil them. They make a most excellent 
occasional repast. 



CHAPTER V 

BROILIKG. 

IN this mode of cooking, three things are to be prin 
cipally observed. First, that your gridiron is the 
roughly clean, and your fire quite clear. Secondly, 
that yon turn your meat quick and often Avhile broiling, 
as it will be a means of preserving the juices. And, 
tliii dly, to have your dish placed on a chafing-dish of 
hot coals, that by putting one piece after another into 
it as they are done, the whole may be taken quite hot 
to table. 



SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT and POULTRY. 

Beef Steaks. 

Let your steaks be cut oif the rump of beef about 
half an inch thick ; take care to have yom' fire clear, 
and rub your gridiron well with beef suet. When it 
is hot lay on your steaks : let them broil till the side 



72 BROILING 

Dcxt the fire is brown ; then turn them, and when the 
otlier side is brown, lay them on a hot dish, with a 
shce of Imtter between each steak : sprinkle a little 
pepper and salt over them, and let them stand two or 
three minntes ; in the mean time slice a shalot as thin 
ns possible into a spoonful of ^^ater ; lay on your steaks 
again, and keep turning them till they are enough ; tl.'.en 
put them on your dish, pour the shalot and water over 
them, and send them to ta])le. Add for vSauce horse- 
radish and pickles. Garnish with scraped horse-radish. 

Mutton Steaks. 

Cut your steaks about half an inch thick, and if it 
be the loin, take off the skhi with a part of the fat. 
When your gridiron is hot, rub it with fresh suet, lay 
on your steaks, and keep turning them as quick as 
possible : if you do not take great care, the fat that 
drops from them into the fire will smoke and spoil 
them: but this may be in a great measure prevented, 
by placing your gTidiron on a slant. Wlien enough 
put them into a hot dish, rub them w ell with butter, 
slice a shalot very thin into a spoonful of water, and 
pour it on them, with a spoonful of catsup. Serve 
them up hot, with scraped hoi-se-radish and pickles. 

Pork Chops. 

In broiling these the same rules are to be observed 
as those given for mutton chops, except Avith this dif- 
ference, that they require more doing. When they 
are enough, put a little good gravy to them : and in 
order to give them an agreeaWe flavour, strew o\ er 
a little sage shred very fine. The only sauce is 
mustard. 

Ox Palates. 

Prepare your palates for broiling thus : having 
peeled them, put into a stew-pan a little butter rolled 
in flour, salt, and pepper, two shalots, a clove of garlic, 
two cloATs, parsley, a laurel leaf, thyme, and as mucli 
milk as wiil simmer yom- palates till tender. When 



MEAT, ^C. /3 

this is done, take them out, and rub over them the 
yolks of eggs with bread crnmls ; then put them on 
your gridiron, broil them slowly, and when enough 
.serve them up with sharp sauce. 

Chickens. 

Split your chickens down the back, season them 
with pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron 
over a clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the 
ins ides continue next the fire till they are nearly lialf 
done ; then tiu*n them, taking care that the flesh)* 
sides do not burn, and let them broil till they are of a 
fine brown. Have ready good gravy sauce, with 
some muslurooms, and garnish them with lemon and 
the livers broiled ; the gizzards cut, slashed, and broil- 
ed, with pepper and salt. Or you may make the fol- 
lowing sauce : take a handful of sorrel, and dip it in 
boiling water ; then drain it, and have ready half a 
pint of good gravy ; a shalot shred small, and some 
parsley boiled very green ; thicken it with a piece of 
butter rolled in flom*, and add a glass of red wine ; 
then lay your sorrel in heaps round the chickens, and 
pour the sauce over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Pigeons. 

Pigeons may be broiled either whole or sht, and 
must be done very slowly over a clear fire. If you 
broil thenc whole, take some parsley shred fine, a 
piece of butter as big as a walnut, with a little pepper 
and salt, and put into their bellies, tying both ends 
with a bit of coarse thread. If you spht them, season 
the inside with pepper and salt ; and when done, 
serve them up with parsley and butter pom-ed over 
them. They will be quicker done by being slit : but 
the best method is to broil them whole. 
No. 4. K 



74 BROILING 

SECT. IT. 

BROILING FISH. 

Fresh Salmon. 

Cut some slices from a fresh salmon, ard wipe them 
clenn and dry ; then melt some butter smooth and fine, 
\\ till a little flour and basket salt. Put the pieces ol 
saiJTioii into it, and roll them about, that they may be 
covered all over with butter. Then lay them on a nice 
clean gi'idiron, and broil them over a clear but sIoav 
fire. While the salmon is broiling make your sauce 
thus : take two anchovies, wash, bone, and cut them 
into small pieces, and cut a leek into three or four long 
pieces. Set on a saucepan with some butter and a little 
llour, put in the anchovies and leek, with some capers 
cut small, some pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg ; 
add to them some warm water, and two spoonsful of 
vinegar, shaking the saucepan till it boils ; and then 
keep it on the simmer till you are ready for it. When 
the salmon is done on one side, turn it on the other till 
it is quite enough ; then take the leek oat of the sauce, 
pour it into a dish, and lay the broiled salmon upon it. 
Garnish with lemons cut in quarters. 

Dried Salmon. 
Lay your dried salmon in soak for two or three 
hours, then lay it on the gridiron, and shake over it a 
little pepper. It will take but a short time, and when 
done serve it up with melted butter. 

Cod. 
Cttt the cod into slices about two inches thick, and 
dry and flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub 
the gi'idiron with a piece of chalk, and set it high from 
the fire Then put in your slices of fish, turn them 
often, and let them brown till they are of a fine brown 
colour. Great care must be taken in turning them that 
liiey do not break. When done serve them up with 
lobster and slu-imp sauce. 



FISH. 75 

Crimped Cod. 
Take a gallon of spring water, put it mto a sance- 
pan over the fire, and throw in a handful of salt. Boil 
t up several times, and keep it clean scummed. Whefl 
t is well cleared frrm the scum, take a middling sized 
tod, as fresh as possible, and put it into some fresh 
oump Avater. Let it lie a few minutes, and then cut 
t into slices about two inches thick. Tlu'ow these into 
the boiling brine, and let them boil briskly a few mi- 
nutes. Then take the slices out with great care that 
they may not break, and put them on a sieve to dra^^n. 
When they are well dried, flour them, and lay them 
at a distance upon a very good fii'e to broil. When 
enough serve them up with lobster, shrimp, or oyster 
sauce. 

Cod Sounds. 

Lay them a few minutes in hot water; then take 
them out, rub them well with salt, and take off the 
skin and black dirt, that they may look white. After 
this put them into water, and give them a boil, then 
take them out, flour them well, strew on some pepper 
and salt, and lay them on the gridiron. When enough 
lay them on your dish, and pour over them melted 
butter and mustard. 

Trout. 

When you have p^'operly cleansed your fish, and 
made it thoroughly dry with a cloth, tie it round with 
packtlTread from head to tail, in order to preserve its 
sha}3e entire. Then melt some butter, with a good 
deal of basket salt, and pour it all over the trout till it 
is perfectly covered : after lying in it a minute or two, 
take it out, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire, 
that it may do gradually. For sauce wash and bone 
an anchovy, and cut it very small ; chop a large spoon- 
ful of capers : melt some butter, Avith a little flour, pep- 
per, salt and nutmeg, and put it into the anchovy and 
capers, with half a spoonful of vinegar. When the 
trout is done lay it in a warm dish, pour your sauce 
boiling hot over it, and send it to table 
7 



76 BROILING 

Ma char el. 

Wash them clean, cut off tlieir heads, and take 
out the roes at the neck end. Boil the roes in a little 
water ; then bruise them with a spoon, beat up the 
yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg ; a little lemon- 
peel cut fine, some thyme, parsley boiled and cliopped 
iine, a little salt and pepper, and a few crumbs of 
bread. Mix these well together, and put it into the 
bellies of the fish ; then flour them well, and broil them 
nicely. Let your sauce be melted butter, with a little 
catsup or walnut pickle. 

Mackarel a-la-Maitre d^ Hotel. 

Broil your Mackarel whole : the sauce is sweet 
herbs, chopped fine, in melted butter. 

Haddocks and Whitings. 

When you have gutted and clean washed them, 
dry them well in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over 
them, which will prevent the skin from breaking. 
Having done this, dredge them well with flour, and 
before you put them on, rub the gridiron well with 
beef suet. Let your gridiron be very hot when you 
lay your fish on, otherwise they will stick to it, and 
the fish be broke in turning. While they are broiling, 
turn them two or three times, and when enough serve 
them up with plain melted butter, or shrimp sauce. 

Another, and indeed a very excellent metlif)d ol 
broiling these fish is thus : when you have cleaned and 
dried them as before-mentioned, put them into a tin 
oven, and set them before a quick fire. As soon as 
the skins begin to rise, take them from the fire, and 
having beat up an egg, rub it over them with a fea- 
ther. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over them, 
vige them well with flour, and rub your gridiron, 
. fien hot, with suet or butter. Lay on your fish, 
and Avhen you have turned them, rub over a little 
butter, and keep turning them till they are done, 
which will be known by their appearing of a nice 



F»*5H. 77 

brown colour ; when done, serve them np either with 
shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter, and garnish with 
melted butter or red cabbage 

Eels. 

Having skinned, cleansed, and dried your eels, 
rub them with the yolk of an egg; strew over them 
some crumbs of bread, chopped parsley and sage, and 
season them ^vith pepper and salt. Baste them well 
with butter, and then put them on the gridiron over a 
clear fire. When done, serve them up with melted 
butter and parsley. 

jGe/6' pitch-cocked. 

Take a large eel, and scour it well Avith salt, to 
clean off the slime ; then slit it down the back, take 
out the bone, and cut it into tliree or four pieces. Take 
the yolk of an egg, and put it over the inside, sprinkle 
on crumbs of bread with some sweet herbs and pars- 
ley chopped very fine, a little nutmeg grated, and some 
pepper and salt mixed together. Then put it on a 
gridiron over a clear fire, broil it of a fine light brown, 
and when enough, serve it up with anchovy sauce, 
and parsley and butter. Garnish with raw parsley 
and horse-radish. 

Another method of pitch-cocking eels is, when you 
have gutted, cleansed, and properly dried them, sprin- 
kle them with pepper, salt, and a little dried sage, turn 
them backward and forward, and skewer them. Rub 
your gridiron with beef suet, broil them a good brown, 
aiitl when done, put them into your dish, and serve 
them up with plain melted butter for sauce. Garnish 
your dish with fried parsley. 

Herrings. 

Scale, gut, and cut off their heads; wash them 
clean, and dry them in a cloth ; then dust them well 
with flour, and broil them. Take the heads, mash 
them, and boil them in small beer or ale, with a httle 
wh:le pepper and onion. When it is boiled a qiiarter 



78 FRYING 

of an hour strain 'jt off, thicken it with butter and flour, 
and a good deal of mustard. Lay the herrings, when 
done, in a plate or dish, pour the sauce into a boat, 
and serve them up. 



CHAPTER VI. 

F R ¥ I JV G 

SECT. I. 
BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Venison. 

CUT your meat into slices, and make gravy of 
xie bones. Fry it of a nice brown, and when clone 
,ake it up, and keep it hot before the fire. Then put 
some butter, well rolled in flour, into the pan^ and keep 
stirring it till it is quite thick and brown ; but be care- 
ful that it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of 
fine sugar beat to powder, put in the gravy made from 
the bones, and some red wine. Make it the thick- 
ness of a fine cream ; squeeze in tJie juice of a lemon, 
warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the 
sauce over it. 

Veal Cutlets. 

Cut your veal into slices of a moderate thickness, dip 
them in the yolk of eggs beat up fine, and strew over 
them crumbs of bread, a few sweet herbs, some lemon- 
peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put them into 
your pan, and fry them with fresh butter. While they 
are frying, make a little good gi'avy, and when the 
meat is done, take it out, and lay it in a dish before 
the fire. Sliake a little flour into the pan, and stir it 
round ; put in the gravy, with the juice of a lemon, 
stir the whole well together, and pour it over the cut- 
lets. Garrish your dish with sliced lemon. 



MEAT, i^C. 7d 

JVeck or Loin of Lamb. 

Cut yunr lamb into chops, rub both sides \rith the 
yolk of an egg, and sprinkle over them some crumbs 
of bread, mixed with a little parsley, thyme, marjo- 
rum, winter savory, and a little lemon-peel, all chop- 
ped very fine. Fry them in batter till they are of a 
nice hght brown, then put them into your dish, and 
garnish with crisped parsley. Or you may dress 
them thus : 

Put your steaks into the pan with half a pint of ale, 
and a little seasoning, and cover them close. When 
enough take them out of the pan, lay them in a j)late 
before the fire to keep hot, and pour all out of the pan 
into a basin ; then put in half a pint of white wine, 
.1 few capers, the yolks of two eggs beat fine, with a lit- 
tle luitmeg and salt ; add to this the liquor they were 
fried in, and keep stirring it one w^ay all the time till 
it is thick ; then put in the chops, keep shaking the 
pan for a minute or two, lay the chops in the dish, and 
pom* the sauce over them. Garnish with crisped pars- 
ley and lemon. 

Sivectbreads. 

Cut them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an 
egg, and rub it over them with a feather. Make a 
seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated bread, strew this 
over them, and fry them in butter. Serve them up 
with melted butter and catsup, and garnish with 
crisped parsley, and very small thin sUces of toasted 
b.jcon. 

Calf's Brains. 

Cut the brains into four pieces, and soak them in 
broth and white wine, with two slices of lemon put 
into it, a little pepper and salt, thyme, lam-el, cloves, 
oarsley, and shalots. When they have remained in this 
about half an hoiu- take them out, and soak them in 
batter made of wliite wine, a little oil, and a little salt, 
ftnd fry them of a fine coloiir. You may likewise strev^ 



80 MIYING 

over them crumbs of bread mixed ^vith the yolks of 
eggs. Serve them up with ])lain melted butter, and 
garnish with uarsley. 

Beef Steaks. 

Fry your steaks over a brisk fire, witl^ a little but- 
ter in the pan, and when they are of a nice light 
brown take them out, and put then, in a dish ])efore 
the fire. Then take half a pintof hct gi'avy, and put 
it into the pan with a little pepper and salt, and two 
or three shalots chopped fine. Boil them up in the 
{)an for two or i\v"*^. minutes, and then pour the whole 
over the steaks, vrarnish w ith scraped horse-radish. 
Ox Tongues. 

When you have boiled the tongue till it is ten- 
der, cut it into slices, and season them with a little 
nutmeg, cinnamon, and sugar. Tlien beat up the yolk 
of an egg with a little lemon-juice, and rub it over 
the slices with a feather. Make some butter boiling 
hot in the frying-pan, and then put in the slices. When 
done serve them up with melted butter, sugar, and 
white wine, all well mixed together. 

Ox Feet, or Coiv-Heel. 

Split the feet asunder, then take out ail the bones, 
and put the meat into the frying-pan witli some but- 
ter. When it has fried a few minutes, put in some 
mint and parsley shred small, a little salt and some 
beaten butter. Add likewise the yolks of two eggs 
beat fine, half a pint of gravy, the juice of a lemon or 
orange, and a little nutmeg. When the foot is done, 
take it out, put it into your dish, and pour the sauce 
over it. 

Tripe. 

Cut your tripe into pieces about three inches 
square, dip them in some small beer batter, or yolks 
of eggs, and have a good quantity of mutton or beef 
dripping in your pan. Fry it till it is of a nice light 
brown, then take it out, let it drain for a minute, put 
it Into your dish, and sqxxc it up. with plain melted but- 
ter in a boat, and mustard. 



MEAT, 4*C. 8 

Sausages. 
The mode of frying sausages is so simple, and ge- 
nerally known, that it needs no description. How- 
ever, we shall notice one way of whidi the cook may 
not be informed. Take six apples, and slice four of 
them as thick as a crown piece : cut the other two into 
quarters, and take the cores clean out. Fry the slices 
with the sausages till they are of a nice light broAvn 
colour. When done put the sausages into the middle 
of the dish, and the apples ro^md them. Garnish 
with the apples quartered. 

Chickens. 

Cut your chickens into quarters, and rub them 
with the yolk of an eg^ ; then strew ok some crumbs 
of bread, with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and le- 
mon-peel, and chopped parsley. Fry them in butter 
and when done put them into your dish before the tire 
For sauce thicken some gravy with a little flour, and 
put into it a small quantity of chyan pepper, some 
mushroom powder or catsup, and a little lemon-juice. 
When it is properly heated, pom* it over the chickens, 
and serve it up. 

Artichoke Bottoms. 

Blanch them in water, then flour them, and 
fry them in fresh butter. Lay them in your dish, and 
pour melted butter over them for sauce. Or you 
may put a little red wine into the butter, and season 
with nutmeg, pepper, and salt. 

Celery. 
Take six or eight heads of fresh celery, and cut 
oft' the green tops with the outside stalks. Wash 
them well and have the roots clean. Have ready a 
pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, 
and a little salt and nutmeg. Mix all well together 
with flour, and make it into a batter, then dip every 
head into it, put them into a pan, and fry them with 
butter. When enougli lay them in your dish, and 
pour melted butter over them ^(s ' san 'c. 



82 FRYING 

Potatoes 

Cut yo\ir potatoes into thin slices, and fry them 
in butter till they arc nicely brown. Then lay them in 
a dish or plate, and pour melted butter over them for 
sauce. 

Potatoes are lilvewise fried by the French in batter, 
and served up with powdered sugar thrown over them. 
You must fry all your batter in sweet oil or hog's 
lard. Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same 
manner, and served up as a corner dish in the second 
course. 



SECT. II. 

FRYING FISH. 

As a necessary prelude to our directions for frying 
fish, it may not be improper to make the few following 
general observations : When you fry any kind of fish, 
first dry them in a cloth, and then flour them. Put 
into your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog's lard, 
and let it boil before you put it into a dish. When 
they are properly fried, lay them in a dish, or hair 
sieve, to drain. If you fry parsley, be sure to pick it 
very cautiously, wash it well, dip it into cold water, 
and throw it into a pan of boiling fat. This will make 
it very crisp, and of a fine green, provided you do not 
let it remain too long in the pan ; but this you may 
prevent by its appearance while doing. 

Turhot. 
IIavino properly cleansed your fish (which in this 
mode of dressing must be small) and thoroughly dried 
it, strew on some flour, and put it into your pan, with 
a sufficient quantity of hot lai'd to cover it. When it 
is firied nice and brown, take it carefully out, and tho- 
rouglily drain the fat from it. In the meantime clean 
the pan, put into it as much claret and white wine as 
will nearly cover the fish, with an anchovy, salt, nut- 
meg, and a little ginger. Put in the trn-bot, and 
let it remain in the liquor till it is half wasted ; then 



PISH. 83 

take it out, and put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
and a minced lemon. Let them simmer together till 
of a proper thickness, then rub a hot dish with a 
piece of shalot, lay the turbot in the dish, pour over 
the sauce, and ser^'e it up. You may likewise add 
plain melted buttei in a basin. 

Carp. 

After having cleansed your fish, lay them in a 
cloth to dry, then flour them, put them into the pan, 
and fry them of a light brown. Take some crusts of 
bread, cut them three corner ways, and fiy them v\ ith 
the roes of the fish. When your fish are nicely fried , 
lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, and prepare an- 
chovy sauce with the juice of a lemon. Lay yom* 
carp in the dish, with the roes on each side, and gar- 
nish with the fried crust, and slices of lemon. 

Tench. 
Split the fish along the backs, and raise the flesh 
from the bone : then cut the skiii across at the head 
and tail, strip it clean ofi", and take out the bone. 
Having thus prepared them for frying, take one of 
them, and mince the flesh very small, with mush- 
rooms, chives, and parsley chopped fine ; a little salt, 
pepper, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savory herbs. 
Mix these well together, then pound them in a mor- 
tar and crumbs of bread soaked in cream, the yolks 
of three or four eggs, and a piece of butter; and with 
this composition stuff" your fish. Put clarified butter 
into your pan, set it over the fire, and when it is 
hot strew some flour on your fish, and put them in one 
by one. When they have fried till they are of a nice 
brown colour, take them up, and lay them in a coarse 
cloth before the fire to keep hot. Then pour all the 
%t out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter, and shake in some flour. Keep it sirring with 
a spoon till the butter is a little brown, and then put 
in half a pint of white wine. Stir them together, 
and put in half a pint of boiling water, an onion 
shred witb cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two 



-i FUriffG 

hliulcs of mace. Cover tliese close, and let them stev\ 
as gently as you can for a quarter of an hour, then 
strain otf the liquor, and put them into the pan again, 
adding two spoonsful of catsup, an ounce of trulHes 
or morels boiled tender in half a pint of water, a few 
muvshrooms, and half a pint of oysters, washed cJean 
in their own liquor. When your sauce is properly heat- 
ed, and has a good flavour, put in your tench, and let 
them lay in it till they arc thoroughly hot ; then take 
them out, lay them in your dish, and pour the sauce 
over them. Garnish w itli sliced lemon. The same 
methods may be used in frying of carp. 

Soles. 
Take off the skin, rub the fish over with the yolk 
of an egg, and strew on some crimibs of bread. F17 
them in hog's lard over a brisk fire, till they are of a 
fine light brown. Then take them up, drain them, 
put them into your dish, and serve them up with plain 
melted butter in a boat. Ganu'sh with green pickles. 

Smelts. 
Be careful to take away the gills, but leave in the 
roes. After you have washed them, dry them well in 
a cloth, then beat up an egg very fine, rub it over them 
with a feather, and strew on crumbs of bread. Fry 
them in hogs lard over a brisk fire, and put them 
in when the fat is boiling hot. When they are 
done of a fine brown, take them out, and drain the fat 
from them, and when you dish them up, put a basin 
with the bottom upwards, into the middle of your 
dish, and lay the tails of your fish on the side of it. 
Garnish with fried parsley. 

Eels. 
After having properly cleaned them, and taken 
off the heads, cut them into pieces, season them ^vith 
pepper and salt, strew on some flour, and fry them till 
they are of a fine brown colour. Drain them properly 
before you lay them in the dish. Serve them up with 
melted butter and the juice of a lemon squeezed into 
it. Garnish with crisped pavsley. 



FISH. 86 

Lampreys. 

When you cut them open to clean them, be care- 
ful to save the blood, and wash them thorouglily clean 
in warm water. Fry them in clean dripping, and 
when nearly enough, put out the fat, put a httle wliite 
wine, and give the pan a shake round. Throw a lit- 
tle pepper, with some sweet herbs, a few capers, a 
piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood you saved 
from the ish. Cover the pan close, and shake it 
often. When they are enough, take them out, strain 
the sauce, put it into the pan again, and give it a quick 
boil. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, stir all together, 
anc" when it is just upon the boil, pom* it over the fish, 
and serve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Mullets. 
Score the fish across the back, and dip them in 
irielted butter. Fry them in butter clarified, and when 
enough, lay them on a warm dish. Serve them up 
with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce. 

Herring's. 
First scrape off all the scales, then wasli them 
dry them well in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. 
Fry them in butter over a brisk fire, and when done, 
set their tails up one against another in the middle of 
tlie dish. Fry a large handful of parsley crisp, take 
it out before it loses its colour ; lay it round the fish, 
and serve them up with melted butter, parsley, and 
mustard. 

Oysters. 

The largest oysters you can get sliould be chosen 
for frying. Wiien you have properly cleaned and rin- 
sed tliem, strew over tliem a little grated nutmeg, a 
blade of mace pounded, a spoonful of flour, and a lit- 
tle salt. Dip your oysters singly into this, and fry 
them in hog"s lard till they are of a nice brown co- 
lour. Then take them out of the pan, pour them into 
your dish, and pour over them a little melted butter, 
•vith cru nbs of bread mixed. 



8b 

CHAPTER VII. 
8 T E W I JV G, 

SECT. I. 

BUrCHER'S MEAT. 

Fillet of Veal. 

VAKE the fillet of a co^^• calf, stuff it well under 
tn-e udder, and at the bone end quite through to the 
shank. Put it into the oven, with a pint of Avater 
under it, till it is of a fine brown ; then put it into a 
stew-pan, with three pints of gravy. Stew it till it is 
tender, and then put a few morels, truffles, a tea- 
spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, one 
of catsup, and a little chyan pepper. Thicken it with 
a lump of butter rolled in flour. Take out your veal 
and put it into your dish, then strain the gravy, pour 
it over, and lay round forcemeat balls. Garnish with 
sliced lemon and pickles. 

Breast of Veal. 

Put a breast of veal into the stew-pan, with a lit- 
tle broth, a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
a few mushrooms, two or three onions, with some pep- 
per and salt., Stew it over a gentle fire till it is ten- 
der ; and when done strain and scum the sauce. Gar- 
nish with forcemeat balls. 

Knuckle of Veal. 

Lay at the bottom of your saucepan four wooden 
skewers cross ways, then put in the veal, Avith two or 
three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a piece of 
thyme, a small onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts 
of water. Cover it down close, make it boil, and then 
only let it simmer for two hours. When cnoiigh, take 
it up, put it into your iish, and strain tlie liquoi 
o\erit. Garnisli \\\i\\ Irnion. 



STEWING MEAT. 87 

JVeck of Veal. 

Lard it with large ])ieces of bacon rolled in pepper 
and shalots and spices. Put it into your stew-pan with 
about three pints of broth, tw^o onions, a lai rel leaf, 
and a little brandy. Let it simmer gently till it is ten- 
der, then put it into your dish, take the scum clean oil 
the liquor, and then pour it on the meat. 

Calf's Head. 

After having properly cleaned the head, put it into 
cold water, and let it lie for an hour : then carefully 
take out the brains, the tongue, the eyes, and the bones. 
Then take a pound of veal, and a pound of beef suet, 
a very little thyme, a good deal of lemon-peel minced, 
a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies ; chop all very fine, 
then trrate two stale rolls, and mix ihe whole together 
with the yolks of four eggs ; save enough of this to 
make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh 
mushrooms, clean peeled and washed, the yolks of six 
eggs, beat fine, half a pint of oysters clean washed, or 
pickled cockles ; mix these all together, after first stew- 
ing your oysters. Put the forcemeat into the head 
and close it, tie it tight with packthread, and put it into 
a deep stew-pan, with two quarts of gravy and a blade 
or two of mace. Cover it close, and let it stew two 
liours. In the meantime, beat up the brains with some 
lemon-peel cut fine, a little parsley chopped, half a nut- 
meg grated, and the yolk of an Q^g. Have some drip- 
ping boiling, and fry half the brains inhttle cakes ; fry 
all the forcemeat balls, and keep them l3oth hot by the 
fire. Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, then 
strain the gravy the head ^vas stewed in, and put the 
truflles and morels t it, with a few mushrooms. Boil 
all together, then it in the rest of the brains, stew 
them together for a minute or two, pom* the whole over 
the head, and lay the cakes of fried brains and force- 
meat balls round it. Garnish with lemons. For a 
small family, the half of a head may be done equally 
fme, only propeilv proportionina: the quantity of Uio 
8 



88 STEWING 

respective articles. — A lamb's head must be done in 
the very same manner. 

Calf's Liver. 

Lard the liver, and put it into a stew-pan, with 
some salt, wliole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
onion, and a blade of mace. Let it stew till tender, 
then take it up, and cover it to keep hot. Strain the 
liquor it was stewed in, scum otlall the fat, thicken it 
with a piece of butter rolled in floin*, and pour it over 
the liver. 

Rump of Beef . 

Half roast your beef, then put it into a stew-pan, 
with two quarts of water, and one of red wine, two or 
three blades of mace, a shalot, one spoonful of lemon- 
pickl^ two of wahiut catsup, and the same of brown- 
ing. Put in chyan pepper and salt to your taste. Cover 
it close, and let it stew over a gentle lh*e for t^vo hom's ; 
then take up your beef, and lay it in a deep dish, scum 
jff the fat, and strain the gravy ; put in an oimce of 
morels, and half a pint of mushrooms ; thicken your 
gravy, and pour it over the beef. Garnish with force- 
meat balls and horse-radish. 

Beef Steaks. 

Pepper and salt your steaks, and lay them in a 
stew-pan. Put in half a pint of water, a blade or two 
of mace, an anchovy, a small bunch of herbs, a piece 
of butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an 
onion. Cover the whole close, and let it stew till the 
steaks are tender ; then take them out, strew some 
flour over them, fry them in fresh butter till they are 
of a nice brown, and then pour oft" all the fat. Strain 
the sauce they were stewed in, pour it into the pan, 
and toss it up all together ti ^ the sauce is quite hot 
and thick. Then lay your eaks in the dish, pour 
the sauce over them, and garnish with horse-radish 
and pickles. 

Beef Gobbets. 

Take any piece of beef, except the leg, cut it into 
small pieces, and put them into a stew-pan. Covei 



MEAT. 89 

them with water, and when they have stewed an houi', 
put in a Httle mace, cloves, and wiiole pepper, tied 
loosely in a muslin rag, with some celery cut small. 
Then add some salt, turnips and carrots pared and ci t 
in slices, a little parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large 
crust of bread, and an ounce either of barley or rice 
Cover it close, and let it stew till it is tender. Ther 
take out the herbs, spices, and bread, and have ready 
a French roll nicely toasted and cut into four parts. 
Put these into your dish, pour in the meat and sauce, 
and send it hot to table. 

JVeaVs Tongue. 
Put the tongue into your stew-pan with a sufficient 
quantity of w^ater to cover it. When it has stewed 
about two hours, take it out, peel it, and put it in 
again, with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white 
wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt 
some mace, cloves, and wdiole pepper, tied in a muslin 
rag ; add likewise a spoonful of capers chopped fine, 
some turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of butter 
rolled in flour. Let the whole stew together very 
gently for two hours . then take out the spice and 
sweet herbs, put the tongue into your dish, strain the 
sauce, pour it over, and serve it up. 

To dress Ox Palates. 
Having cleansed and boiled your palates, take off 
the skin, and pick out all that part that is black, and 
cut them in bits : turn some onions a few times over 
the fire with a bit of butter, and when it is half done 
put it in the palates. Moisten your ragout with some 
good broth, and a little cullis ; season it to your taste, 
and add a bunch of sweet herbs : when it is well skim- 
med, and the sauce of a proper consistence, put in a 
httle mustard, and serve it up. 

Ox Palates forced. 
Ste w^ your palates whole with forcemeat rolled up ; 
when done, cut them in half: sevve them up with a 
good sauce of trullles. 



9U STEWIIfG 

To marinade Ox Palates. 

Ww iNG boiled some palates in water tiil tender, 
cut them in pieces of what shape you please, and steep 
tlieni two or three hours in some vinegar, with salt, 
pippcr, a clove of garlic, a little flour and butter, a 
laurel leaf, and three cloves. The whole marinade 
must be made hike- warm, then take them out, dry, 
flour and fry them, and serve them up with fried parsley. 



SECT. II. 
STEWING POULTRY, &c. 

Turkey en Pain. 

Take a fine turkey, bone it, and put into the car- 
case a ragout composed of large livers, mushrooms, 
and streaked bacon, all cut in small dice, and mingled 
with salt, fine spices, and shred parsley and onions 
Sew the turkey up, but take care to shape it nicely ; 
then put a thin slice of bacon upon the breast, and 
wrap it in a cloth. Stew it in a pot, but not too large 
a one, with good broth, a glass of white wine, and a 
]3unch of sweet herbs ; when it is done, strain the 
liquor the turkey w^as done in into a stew-pan, 
after having taken off" the fat ; reduce it to a sauce, 
adding a spoonful of cuUis ; then unwrap your turkey, 
take off the bacon, dry away the grease, and serve 
it up with the sauce. 

Fowls. 

Pursue the same method, at first, in stewing fowls 
as you do turkeys ; that is to say, put skewers cross- 
ways at the Ijottom of your stew-pan. When you 
have laid in your fowl, put to it a quart of gravy, a 
bunch of celery clean washed and cut very small, with 
two or three blades of mace. Let it stew gently till 
the liquor is reduced to a quantity only suflicient for 
sauce ; then add a largr '>iece of butter rolled in flour, 



POULTRY <^C. Si 

two spoonsful of red wine, the same quantity of catsup, 
witli pepper and salt to season it. Lay your fowl in 
the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table 

Chickens. 

Half boil them in as much water as will just cover 
lliem, then take them out, cut them up, and take out 
the breast bones. Put them into your stew-pan with 
the liquor, and add a blade of mace and a little salt. 
Cover the pan close, and set it over a slow fire. Let 
it stew till the chickens are enough, then put the whole 
into your dish, and serve it to table. 

Goose Giblets. 

Put them into scalding water, by which you will be 
enabled to make them properly clean. When this is 
done, cut the neck into four pieces, the pinions in two, 
and slice the gizzard. Put them into your stew-pan 
with two quarts of water, or, if you have it, mutton 
broth, with some sweet herbs, an anchovy, a few 
peppercorns, three or four cloves, a spoonful of catsup, 
and an onion. When the giblets are tender, put in a 
spoonful of good cream, thicken it with flour and butter, 
then pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of 
bread at the bottom, and serve it up. 

Ducks. 

Take two ducks, properly picked and drawn, dust 
them with flour, and set them before tlie fire to brown. 
Tlien put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of Ava- 
ter, a pint of red wine, a snoonful of walnut catsup, 
the same of browning, an anchovy, half a lemon, a 
clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, with chyan 
pepper and salt to your taste. Let them stew gently 
for naif an hour, or till you find them tender ; then lay 
them on a dish, and keep them hot. Skim off" the fat 
from the liquor in which they were stewed, strain it 
through .a hair sieve, add to it a few morels and truf- 
fles, boil it quick till reduced to little more than hall" a 
pint, then pour it oa er your ducks, and serv^e them ui>- 



92 STEWING 

Duck ivith green Peas. 

Put into yonr stew-pan a piece of fresh butter, and 
set it on the lire ; then put in yonr duck, and turn it in 
the pan two or three minutes : take out the fat, but let 
the duck remain. Put to it a pint of good gravy, a 
pint of peas, two lettuces cut small, a bunch of sweet- 
herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Cover them close, 
and let them stew for half an hour, now and then sha- 
king the pan. When they are just done, grate in a 
little nutmeg, A\ith a small quantity of beaten mace, 
and thicken it either with a piece of butter rolled hi 
flour, or the yolk of an egg beat up with two or three 
spoonsful of cream. Shake it all together for two or 
three minutes, then take out the sweet herbs, lay the 
duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish 
with boiled mint chopped very fine. 

Pigeons. 

Put into the bodies of your pigeons a seasoning 
made with pepper and salt, a few cloves and mace, 
some sweet herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
Tie up the necks and vents, and half roast them. 
Then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of good 
gravy, a little white wine, a few peppercorns, three 
or four blades of mace, a bit of lemon, a bunch ot 
SAveet herbs, and a small onion. Stew them gently 
till they are enough ; then take the pigeons out, and 
strain the liquor through a sieve : scum it and thicken 
it in your stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in 
flour ; then put in the pigeons with some pickled 
mushrooms; stew it about five minutes; put the 
pigeons into a dish, and pour the sauce over them. 

Pheasants. 

Put into yonr stew-pan with the pheasant as much 
veal broth as will cover it, and let it stew till there is 
just enough liquor left for sauce. Then scum it, and 
put in artichoke bottoms parboiled, a little beaten 
mace, a glass of wine, and some pepper and salt. If 
it is not sufficiently svdistantial, thicken it with a piec^ 



POULTRY, <^C. dS 

of butter rolled in flour, and squeeze m a little lemon- 
juice. Then take up the pheasant, pour the sauce 
over it, and put forcemeat balls into the dish. 

Partridges. 

Truss your partridges in the same manner as for 
roasting, stuff the craws, and lard them down each 
side of the breast ; then roll a himp of butter in pep- 
per, and salt, and beaten mace, and put into the bellies, 
Sew up the vents, and then put them into a stew-pan 
Avith a quart of good gravy, a spoonful of Madeira 
wine, the same of catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon- 
pickle, half the quantity of muslu'oom powder, one an- 
chovy, half a lemon, and a sprig of sweet marjorum. 
Cover the pan close, and stew them half an hoiu- • 
then take them out and thicken the gi'avy. Boil it 
a little, and pour it over the partridges, and lay round 
them artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in quarters, 
and the yolks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks must be 
stcAved in the same manner. 

Cucumbers. 

Pare twelve middle sized cucumbers, slice them 
about the thickness of half a crown, and lay them in a 
coarse cloth to drain. When quite dry, flour them, 
and fry them in fresh butter till they are brown ; tlien 
take them out with an egg-slice, and lay them on a 
plate before the fire. Take a large cucumber, cut a 
long piece out of the side, and scoop out all the pulp. 
Have ready some onions nicely fried, fill the cucumber 
\vith these, and season with pepper and salt ; then put 
in the piece that was cut out, and tie it round with 
packthread. Flour it, and fry it till it is broA'STi ; then 
take it out of the pan, and keep it hot. Let the pan 
remain on the fire, and v/hile you are putting in a lit- 
tle flour with one hand, keep stirring it with the other. 
— When it is thick, put in two or three spoonsful of 
water, half a pint of white or red wine, and two spoons- 
ful of catsup. Stir them together, and add three blades 
of mace, four clo^ es, half a nutmeg grated, and a lit- 



94 STEWIIfG 

tie pepper and salt, all beat fine together. Stir it into 
the saucepan, and then throw in your cucumbers. Let 
them stew for two or three minutes, then lay the whole 
cucumber in the middle of yoin- dish, having first un- 
tied it, the rest round it, and pour the sauce all over. 
Garnish the disli witli fried onions. 

Peas and Lettuce. 
Pui a quart of green peas, and two large lettuces 
washed clean, and cut small across, into a stew-pan, 
w^ith a quart of gravy, and stew them till they are ten- 
der. Put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and sea- 
son with pepper and salt. When of a proper thick- 
ness, dish them np, .and send them to table. Instead 
of butter you may thicken them with the yolks of four 
eggs, and if you put two or three thin rashers of lean 
ham at the bottom of the stew-pan, it will give the 
whole a very fine flavour. 



SECT. III. 
STEWING FISH. 

Carp and Tench. 

Having scaled and gutted your fish, wash them 
thoroughly clean, dry them with a cloth. Then put 
them into a stew-pan, with a quart of water, the same 
quantity of red wine, a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, 
another of browning, a little mushroom-powder, chy- 
an pepper, a large onion stuck with cloves, and a stick 
of horse-radish. (If carp, add tlie blood, which 
you must be careful to save when yon kill them.) 
Cover yom- pan close to keep in the steam ; and let 
them stew gently over a slow fire till your gravy is re- 
duced to just enongh to cover them. Then take the 
fish out, and put them into the dish you intend for ta- 
ble. Set the gravy again on tlic fire, and thicken it 
with a large lump of butter rolled in flour : boil it a lit- 
tle, and then strain it over your fish. Garnish with 



FISH. 96 

pickled mushrooms, scraped horse-radish, and the 
roes of the fish, some of them fried and cut into small 
pieces, and the rest boiled. Just before yon send it 
up, squeeze into the sauce the juice of a lemon. 

Bcu^hel. 
Take a large Ivirbel, scale, gut, and wash it in vine- 
gar and salt, and afterwards in clear water. Then put 
it into a stew-pan, with a sufficiency of eel broth to 
cover it, and add some cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
and a bit of cinnamon. Let them stew gently till the 
fish is done, then take it out, tliicken the sauce with 
butter and flour, peur it over the fish, and serve it up. 

Small Barbel. 
The small barbel is stewed like a carp, and when 
large may be done on the gridiron, served up with a 
white sauce. 

Trout. 

Make a stuffing with grated bread, a piece of but' 
ter, chopped parsley, lemon-peel grated, pepper, salt, 
nutmeg, savory herbs, and the yolk of an e^g, all well 
mixed together. Fill the belly of your fish with this, 
and then put it into a stew-pan with a quart of good 
boiled gravy, half a pint of Madeira wine, an onion, a 
little whole pepper, a few cloves, and a piece of lemon- 
peel. Stew it very gently over a slow fire, and when 
done* take out the fish, and add to the sauce a little 
flour mixed in some cream, a little catsup, and the 
juice of a lemon. Let it just boil up, then strain it 
over your fish, and serve it up. 

Pike. 
Make ..browning with butter and flour, and put it 
into your stew-pan with a pint of red wine, a fag- 
got, four cloves, a dozen of small onions half boiled, 
with some pepper and salt. Cut your pike into pieces, 
put it in, and let it stew very gently. When done, take 
it out, and add to the sauce two anchovies and a 
spoonful of capers chopped fine. Boil it for a minute 
or two, and then pour it over the fish. Garnish with 
bread nicely fried, and cut three-corner ways. 



96 6TEW1NG 

Jl Fricandcau of Pike. 
Cut a pike into slices, according to its size ; alter 
ihiviiiir scaled, gutted, and washed it, lard all the upper 
j)art with bacon cut small, and jMit it into a stew-])an 
with a glass ol" white wine, some good broth, a bunch 
of sweet herbs, and some fillet of veal cut into small 
dice : w hen it is stewed, and the sauce strained oil, 
gliize it like other fricandeaus. It may also be frica- 
seed like chickens (as a side dish); or you may stew it, 
and serve it up w ith a white sauce. 

Cod. 
Cut some slices of cod, as for boiling, and season 
them with grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet 
herbs. Put them into a stew-pan with half a pint of 
white wine and a qyarter of a pint of water. Cover 
(hem close, and let them simmer for five or six minutes. 
Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a few^ 
oysters with their liquor strained, a piece of butter 
rolled in flour, and a blade or two of mace. Let them 
stew very gently, and frequently shake the pan to pre- 
vent its burning. When the fish is done, take out 
the onion and sweet herbs, lay the cod in a warm dish, 
and strain the sauce over it. 

Soles, Plaice, and Flounders. 

The same methods must be taken for stewing either 
of these kinds of fish. Half fry them in butter, then 
take them out of the pan, and put to the butter a quart 
of water, two ancliovies, and an onion sliced. When 
they have boiled slowly for about a quarter of an hour, 
put your fish in again, and let them stew gently about 
twenty minutes ; then take out the fish, and thicken 
the sauce with butter and flom'. Give the whole a 
gentle boil, then strain it through a hair-sieve over the 
fish, and serve them up with oyster, cockle, or shrimp 
sauce. 

Lampreys and Eels. 

Having skinned, gutted, and thoroughly washed 
your fish, season them with salt, pepper, alittle lemon 



FISH. 97 

peel shred fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Put some 
tliin slices of butter into your stew-pan, and having 
rolled your fish round, put tliem in, with half a pint of 
good gravy, a gill of white wine, a bunch of marjorum, 
winter savory, thyme, and an onion shced. Let them 
stew over a gentle fire, and keep turning them till they 
are tender. Then take them out, and put an anchovy 
into the sauce. Thicken it with the yolk of an eg'^ 
beat very fine, or a piece of butter rolled in flour. When 
it boils, pom- it over the fish, and serve them to table. 

Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray-fish. 

Take about two quarts of either of these fish, and 
pick out the tails. Put the bodies into your stew-pan, 
with about a pint of white wine (or water with a spoon- 
fid of vinegar) and a blade of mace. Stew these a 
quarter of an hoiu', then stir them together, and strain 
them. Having done this, wash out your pan, and put 
into it the strained liquor and tails. Grate into it a 
small nutmeg, put in a little salt, a quarter of a pound 
of butter rolled in flour, and shake it all together. Cut 
a thin slice of bread round a quartern loaf, toast it 
brown on both sides, cut it into six pieces, lay it close 
together in the bottom of your dish, pour yom* fish and 
sauce hot over it, and send it hot to table. If cray- 
fish, garnish the dish with some of their biggest claws 
laid thick round. 

Oysters. _ 

Strain the liquor of your oysters, and put it into 
your saucepan with a little beaten mace, and thicken 
it with flour and butter. Boil this three or four mi- 
nutes, then toast a slice of bread, cut it in three-cor- 
nered pieces, and lay them round the dish into which 
yon intend to put the oysters. Then put into the pan 
a spoonful of cream with your oysters, shake them 
round, and let them stew till tliey are quite hot, but 
be careful they do not boil. Pour them into a deep 
plate or soup-dish, and serve them up. Most kinds of 
hell-fish may be stewed in the same manner. 



93 HASHING 

Oysters scolloj id. 

AVasii tlicin tiioroiif^lily clean in tlieir own liquor, 
?uul lliiMipiit them in(() your scollop sliclls ; strew over 
♦hciu a few cruni])s of bread. Lay a slice of butter on 
the first you put in, then more oysters, and bread and 
butter successively till the s lell is full. Put them into 
a Dutch oven to brown, and serve them up hot in the 
v^helis. 

JMuscles. 

Wash them very clean in several waters, then put 
them into a stew-pan, and cover them close. Let them 
stew till the shells open, and then pick out the fish 
clean, one by one. Look under the tongue. to see if 
there be a crab, and if you find one, throw that muscle 
away. You will likewise find a little tough article 
under the tongue, which you must pick oif. Having 
tli'.is properly cleansed them, put them into a sauce- 
pan, and to a quart of muscles, put half a pint of tlie 
liquor strained through a sieve : add a few blades of 
mace, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and let 
them stew gejitly. Lay some toasted bread in the 
dish, and when the muscles are done, pour them on 
it, and serve them up. 



CHAPTER VIII. 
HASIIT^TG AJVD MI^CIJVG. 

SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Calfs Head. 

AS a whole calf's head is rather toy large for the 
consumption of most fann'lies at one time, and afl we 
mean to confine our receipts within such compass as 
may with equal convenience and pleasure suit all, so 
we shall here give directions for only hashing one-half ^ 
observinc: that should there be occasion for doing: the 
whole, it is on^y doubling the ingi'edients here given 
n>r a part. 



MEAT. 99 

Wasii the heaa as clean as possible, and then boil 
it a quarter of an honr. When cold, cut the meat, as 
also tlie tongue, into thin broad slices, and put tliem 
into a stewing-pan, Avith a quart of good gravy. When 
it lias stewed three quarters of an hour, put in an an- 
chovy, a little beaten mace, chyan pepper, two spoons- 
ful of lemon-pickle, the same quantity of walnut cat- 
sup, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a slice or two 
of lemon, some sweet herbs, and a glass of white wine. 
Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with some flour, 
and put it in a few minutes before the meat is done. 
In the mean time put the brains into hot w ater, and 
beat them fine in a basin ; then add two eggs, a 
spoonful of flour, a bit of lemon-peel shred fine, and a 
little parsley, thyme, hnd sage chopped small. Beat 
them all well together, and strew in a little pepper and 
salt ; tlien drop them in little cakes into a pan with 
boiling lard ; fry them of a light brown, and lay them 
on a sieve to drain. Take your liash out of yom'pan 
with a fish slice, and lay it in your dish. Strain your 
gravy over it, and lay upon it a few mushrooms, force- 
meat balls, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and the 
brain cakes. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. 
If tlie company is so large that there should be a ne- 
cessity for dressing the whole head, in order to make 
a pleasing variety, do the other half thus : When it is 
parboiled, hack it cross and cross with a knife, and 
grate some nutmeg all over it. Take the yolks of two 
eggs, a little salt and pepper, a fev/ sweet-herbs, some 
crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel chopped very 
fine. Strew^ this over the head, and then pnt it into 
a deep dish before a good fire. Baste it with butter, 
and keep the dish turning till all parts are equally 
brown. Tlien take it np, and lay it on your hash. 
Blanch the half of the tongue, and lay it on a soup 
plate ; boil the brains with a little sage and parsley, 
chop them fine, and mix them with some melted but- 
ter, and a spoonful of cream, make it quite hot, then 
pour it ov v: the tongue, and serve it np with the head. 
The mode of doing this half is usually termed ^•rilling 
9 ^ 



iUO HASHING 

Veal Minced. 
First rii*; your veal into thin slices, and then into 
small bits. Put it into a sanropan with half a pint of 
<Xravv, a little pt^pper nnd salt, ;i slice of lemon, a ii^ood 
piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea-spoonfnl of lemon- 
pickle, and a lar<]je s|)oonfiil of cream. — Keep shakini^ 
t over the Hre till it boils, have sippets of bread ready 
in the dish, and then ponr the whole over them. Gar- 
nish with sliced lemon. 

Mutton Hashed. 
Cut yonr meat into small pieces, as thin as possi- 
ble ; then boil the bones wath an onion, a few sweet 
herbs, a blade of mace, a very little whole pepper, a 
little salt, and a piece of crust toasted very crisp. Let 
it boil till there is just enous^h for sauce ; then strain it, 
and put it into a saucepan, with a piece of butter rol- 
led in flour; then put in the meat, and when it is very 
hot it is enouo^h. Season with pepper and salt. Have 
ready some thin bread toasted brown and cut three 
corner ways, lay them in the dish, and pour over the 
hash. Garnish with pickles and horse-radish 



SECT. IT. 

HASHING POULTRY and GAME. 

Turkeys. 
Cut the flesh into pieces, and take off" all the skin, 
otherwise it wnll ffive the gravy a greasy disagi-eeable 
taste. Put it into a stew-pan with a pint of gravy, a 
tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a slice of the end of a 
lemon, and a little beaten mace. Let it boil about six 
or seven minutes, and then put it into yom' dish. 
Thicken your gravy with flour and butter, mix the 
yolks of tAvo eggs with a spoonful of thick cream, put 
it into your gravy, and shake it over the fire till it is 
quite hot, but do not let it boil ; then strain it, and 
pour it over your turkey. Lay sippets round, serve it 
up, and garnish with lemon and parsley. 



POULTRY, ^C. 10) 

Or you may do it thus • 

Cut the remains of a roasted turkey into pieces, 
and put them into a stew-pan with a glass of white 
wine, chopped parsley, shalots, mushrooms, truffles, 
salt, and pepper, and about half a pint of broth. Let it 
l)oil half an hour, which will be sufficient to do it ; then 
add a pounded anchovy and a squeeze of lemon. 
Scum the fat clear from the sauce, then pour the whole 
into your dish over sippets made of toasted bread cut 
thin. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Foivls. 

Cut up your fowl as for eating, then put it into a 
stew-pan with half a pint of gravy, a tea-spoonful ol 
lemon-pickle, a little catsup and a slice of lemon. 
Thicken it with flom* and butter ; and just before you 
dish it up, put in a spoonful of good cream. Lay 
sippets in the dish, and pour the hash over them. 

Chickens. 

Cut a cold chicken into pieces, and if you have no 
gravy, make a little with the long bones, onion, spice, 
&LC. Flour the chicken, and put into the gi'avy, with 
white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and grated lemon. When 
it boils, stir in an egg, and mix it with a little cream. 
As soon as it is thoroughly hot, squeeze in a Httk 
lemon-juice, then put the whole mto a dish, strew 
over it some crumbs of bread, brown them with a 
salamander, and then serve it up hot to table. 

Partridges or Woodcocks. 

Having cut it up in the usua' manner as when 
first brought to the table, work the entrails very fine 
with the back of a spoon, put in a spoonful of red wine, 
the same of water, and half a spoonful of vinegar ; 
cut an onion in slices, and put it into rings ; roll a 
little butter in flour, put them all into your pan, and 
shake it over the fire till it boils ; then put in your 
bird, and when it is thoroughly hot, lay it in your dishy 
with sippets round it. Strain the sauce over the bird, 



102 HASHING POULTRY, ^C. 

and la}" the onions in rings. This ^vill make a deli- 
cate disli lor two people either for diinier or supper ; 
and where ther j is a large company is an ornamental 
addition to other articles provided. 

Wild Ducks. 

Cut up your duck in the usual maimer, then put it 
into a pan, with a spoonful of good gravy, the same of 
red wine, and an onion sliced exceeding thin. When 
it has boiled two or three minutes, lay the duck in the 
dish, and j)our the gravy over it. You may add a tea- 
spoonful of caper liquor, or a little browning. 

Hares. 

Cut your hare into small pieces, and if you have 
any of the pudding left, rub it small, and put to it a 
gill of red wine, the same quantity of water, half an 
anchoAy chopped fme, an onion stuck with four 
cloves, and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
flour. Put these all together into a saucepan, and set 
it over a slow lire, shaking it at times that the whole 
may be equally heated. When it is thoroughly hot 
(for you must not let any kind of hash boil, as it will 
harden the meat) take out the c^iion, lay sippets in 
and round the dish, pour in your hash, and serve it 
hot to table. 

Hare Jugged. 

After you have cut yoiu* hare into small pieces, 
lard them here and there with very thin slips of 
bacon ; season them with a little pepper and salt, and 
put them into an enrtlien jug, with a blade or two of 
mace, an onion str.ok with cloves, and a bunch of 
sweet herbs. Cover the jug close, that the steam may 
be retained ; set it in a pot of boiling water, and about 
three hours will do it. Then turn it out of the jug 
into the dish, take out the onion and sw^eet herbs, and 
send it hot to table. With respect to the larding, it 
may be used or omitted, at your own discretion. Gar 
nish with sliced lemon. 



FRICASEEING MEAT, d^C. 103 

Venison. 

Cut your venison into very thin slices, and put it 
into a stewing-pan, witli a large glass of red wine, a 
spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, an onion 
stuck with cloves, and half an anchovy chopped fine. 
When it boils, put in your venison, and let it remain 
till it is thoroughly heated. Then pour the whole 
together into a soup dish, with sippets underneath. 
Garnish with red cabbage or current-jelly. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FRICASSEEIJVG. 

SECT. I. 

BUTCHER S MEAT, POULTHY, 6zc. 

JS^eafs Tongue. 

HAVING boiled the tongue till it is tender, take 
it up, peel it, and cut it into slices. Put them into a 
frying-pan with a proper quantity of butter, and let 
them fry till they are brown. Then pour the butter 
clean out of the pan, and put in some good gravy, witli 
a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, some pepper and 
salt, a blade or two of mace, and a gill of wine. When 
they have all simmered together about half an hour, 
take out the slices of tongue, strain the gravy, and ])ut 
all again into the pan, with the yolks of two eggs beat 
fine, a little nutmeg grated, and a small piece of butter 
rolled in flour. Shake the whole well together, and 
when it has sunmered for about five minutes, put the 
tongue into your dish, pour over the sauce, and serve 
it to ta])le. 

Sweethi uids IVliite. 

These must be likewise first scalded, and then cut 
into long slices ; when done, thicken some veal gravy 
with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little cream 



104 FRICASEEING 

some grated .emon-peel and nutmeg, Avhite pepper, 
salt, and a little mushroom powder. When these have 
stewed together al)out ten minutes, put in the sweet- 
breads, shake the j)an, and let them simmer ; then 
squeeze in a little lemon-jnice, pour the whole into 
your dish, and serve it up. 

Calf's Feet a-la-Carmagot. 

Parboil them, then take out the long bones, split 
them, and put them into a stew-pan, with some veal 
gravy, and a glass of white wane. Add likewise the 
yolks of tw^o or three eggs beat up Avith a little cream, 
grated nutmeg, salt, and a piece of butter. Stir it till 
it is of a good thickness ; and when the whole has gen- 
tly simmered for about ten minutes, put the feet into 
your dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish 
with sliced lemon. 

Tjipe. 

Cut your tripe into pieces, about tAvo inches square, 
and put them into your stew-pan, with as mucliAvhite 
wine as will half cover them, a little Avhite pepper, 
sliced ginger, a blade of mace, a bunch of sw eet herbs, 
and an onion. When it has stewed a quarter of an 
hour, (which will be sufficient time to do it,) take out 
the herbs and onion, and put a little shred parsley, the 
juice of a lemon, half an anchovy cut small, a cup full 
of cream, and either the yolk of an egg, or a piece of 
butter. Season it to your taste ; and when you dish 
it up, garnish with lemon. 

Chickens. 

Skin your chickens, and then cut them into small pie- 
ces, after Avhicli wash them w ith warm Avater, and tho- 
roughly dry them Avith a cloth. Season them Avith salt 
and pepper, and put tliem into a stcAV-pan Avith a lit- 
tle AA^ater, a large piece of butter, a bunch of thyme, 
and sweet-marjorum, an onion stuck Avith cloves, a ht- 
tle lemon-pickle, a glass of Avine, an anchovy, a little 
mace and nutmeg. When the chickens have steAved 



FISH. 105 

till they are tender, take them up, and lay them in your 
dish. Thicken yom- gravy with butter rolled in flour, 
and then strain it. Beat up the yolks of three eggs, 
and mix them with a gill of rich cream ; put this into 
your gravy, and shake it over the fire till it is quite hot, 
but do not sufl'er it to boil. Pour this over your chick- 
e IS, and serve them up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Rabbits White. 
To fricasee rabbits white, you must cut them up as 
for eating, and then put them into a stew-pan, w ith a 
pint of veal gravy, a little beaten mace, a slice of le- 
mon, an anchovy, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, a lit- 
tle chyan pepper and salt. Let them stew over a gen- 
tle fire till they are enough, then take them out, and 
lay them in your dish. Thicken the gravy with butter 
and flour ; then strain it, and add the yolks of two 
eggs, mixed with a gill of thick cream, and a little gra- 
ted nutmeg. Stir these well together, and when it be- 
gins to sunmer, ]X)ur it quite hot over your rabbits, and 
serve them to table. 

Rabbits Broivn. 
Cut them into pieces as before directed, and fry 
them in butter of a light brow^n. Then put them in- 
to a stew-pan, with a pint of water, a slice of lemon, 
an anchovy, a large spoonful of browning, the same of 
.catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, and a little chy- 
an pepper and salt. Stew them over a slow fire till 
they are enough, then thicken your gravy with butter 
and flour, and strain it. Dish up your rabbits, and 
pcur the gravy over them. Garnish ivith sliced lemon. 



SECT. II. 

FRICASEEING FISH, &c. 

Cod Sounds. 
Having properly cleaned them, cut them into small 
pieces, boil them in milk and v, ater, and then set them 
to drain. The' put them into a clean saucepan, 



106 FRICASEEING 

luiJ season them ^vith beaten mace, o^rated nutmeg, 
and a little j)ej)i)er and salt. Add to them a ciij) full 
of cream, with a gcod piece of butter rolled in Hour, 
and keep shakini- (he whole till it is thoroughly hot, 
and of a good tlii( kness. Tlieii pour all into your dish, 
and serve it up, with a shced lemon for garnish. 

Soles. 

When you have skinned, gutted, and thoroughly 
washed them, cut oil' their lieads, and dry the fish in 
a cloth. Then cut the flesli very carefully from the 
bones and fins on both sides ; cut it first long-w^ays, and 
then across, in such divisions that each fish may make 
eight pieces. Put the heads and bones into a stew-- 
pan, with a pint of water, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
onion, a little whole pepper, two or three blades of 
mace, a small piece of lemon-peel, a httle salt, and a 
crust of bread. Cover it close, and let it boil till it is 
half wasted : then strain it through a fine sieve, and 
put it into a stew-pan with your fish. Add to them 
half a pint of white wine, a little parsley chopped fine, 
a few mushrooms cut small, a httle grated nutmeg, and 
a piece of butter rolled in floiu'. Set altogether over 
a slow fire, and keep shaking the pan till the fish are 
enough : then dish them up with the gTavy, and serve 
them to table. Garnish with lemon. 

Eels. 

Skin three or four hirge eels, and notch them from 
end to end. Cut them into four or five pieces each, 
and lay them in some spring water for half an hour to 
crimp : then dry them in a cloth, and put them into 
your pan, with a piece of fresh butter, a green onion 
or two, and a little chop})cd parsley. Set the pan on 
the fire, and shake them about for a few minutes : then 
put in about a pint of white wine, and as much good 
broth with pepper, salt, and a bhide of mace. Stew 
all together about half an hour : and then add the yolks 
of four or five eggs beat smooth, and a little grated 
n^.itmeg, and cli.>pped parsley. Stir the whole well 



FISH 107 

together, and let it simmer four or five minutes, then 
squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give the whole a good 
slialve, pour it into your dish, and serve it up hot. Gar- 
nish witli lemon. 

Tench are exceeding fine dressed in the same man- 
ner. 

Flounders. 

Take a sharp knife, and carefully raise the flesh on 
both sides from head to tail ; then take the bone clear 
out, and cut the flesh into pieces in the same manner 
as directed for soles, only let the pieces of each consist 
of six instead of eight. Dry your fish well, then sprin- 
kle them with salt, dredge them with flour, and fry 
tliem in a pan of hot beef dripping, so that the fish may 
be crisp. When so done, take them out of the pan, 
drain the fat from them, and set them before the fire 
to iveep warm. Then clean the pan, and put into it 
some minced oysters, with their liquor clean strained, 
some white wine, a little gr ited nutmeg, and three an- 
chovies. Stew these together a few minutes, and then 
put in your fish, with about a quarter of a pound of 
Iresli butter. Shake them well together, and, when 
quite liot, dish up your fish with the sauce, and serve 
them to table. Garnish v. ith yolks of eggs, boiled hard 
and minced, and sliced lemon. You may fricasee sal- 
mon, or any other firm fish, in the same manner. 

Skate or Thornback. 
These must be prepared for dressing in the same 
manner as directed for soles and flounders ; after which 
put them into your stew-pan. To one pound of the fish 
put a quarter of a pint of water, a little beaten mace, 
and grated nutmeg ' a small bunch of sweet herbs, and 
a little salt. Cover it close, and let it boil about a 
quarter of an hour. Then take out the sweet herbs, 
put in a quarter of a pint of good cream, a piece of 
butter, the sizic of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a glass 
of white wine. Keep shaking the pan all the time 
one way till yom' fricasee is thick and smooth ; then 
dish it up, and garnish with lemon. 



108 FRICASEEING FISH, ^C. 

Oijsters. 

Put a little butter into your stew-pan, ^vitli u slicf 
of hum, a .'agjjot ot" p;u\sley and sweet herbs, an(f an 
onion stuck witli two cloves. Ijct them stew over a 
slow lire a lew minutes, and then add a liUle Uoin*, 
some good broth, and a piece of lemon-peel ; then put 
in your oysters, and let them simmer till they are tho- 
roughly hot. Thicken Avith the yolks of two eggs, a 
little cream, and a bit of good butter, take out the ham, 
faggot, onion, and lemon-peel, and add the squeeze of 
a lemon. Give the whole a shake in the pan, and 
when it simmers put it into your dish, and serve it up. 

Eggs. 

Boil your eggs hard, and take out some of the 
yolks whole ; then cut the rest in quarters, yolks and 
whites together. Set on some gravy with a little shred 
thyme and parsley in it, and let it boil about a minute. 
Then put in yom' eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, 
and shake them up with a piece of butter till it is of 
a proper thickness. Pour it into your dish, and serve 
it up. 

Eiggs ivith Onions and Mushrooms. 

When you have boiled the eggs hard take out the 
yolks whole, and cut the whites in shps, with some 
onions and mushrooms. Fry the onions and mush- 
rooms, throw in the whites, and turn them about a lit- 
tle. If there is any fat, pour it off. Flour the onions, 
&c. and put to them a little good gravy. Boil this up, 
then put in the yolks, and add a little pepper and salt. 
Let the wlijole simmer for about a minute, and then 
dish it up. 

Mushrooms. 

If your mushrooms are very small (such as are 
usually termed buttons) you must only wipe them with 
a flannel ; but if large peel them, vscrape the insides, 
and throw them into some salt and water. After ly- 
ing some time, take theni out and boil them in water 



B \(J001NG MEAT. lU9 

With some salt in it ; and when they are tender, put 
in a httle shred parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, 
and a glass of wine. Shake them up with a good 
piece of butter rolled in flour, and put in three spoons- 
ful of thick creani, and a little nutmeg cut in pieces. 
When the whole has stood two or three minutes, take 
out the onion and nutmeg, then pour tlie mushrooms 
with their sauce into your dish, and serve tliem to 
table. 

Skirrits. 

Wash them thoroughly clean, and when you have 
boiled them till they are tender, skin the roots, and 
cut them into slices. Have ready a little cream, a 
piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg beaten 
line, a little grated nutmeg, two or three spoonsful of 
white wine, with a very little salt, and stir all together. 
Put your roots into the dish, and pour the sauce over 
them. 

Artichoke Bottoms. 

These may be fricaseed either dried or pickled. 
If dried, lay them in w^arm water for three or four 
hours, shifting the water two or tlu'ee times. Having 
done this, put some cream into your saucepan, with a 
large piece of fresh butter, and stir them together one 
w^ay till the butter is melted. Then put in the arti- 
chokes, and when they are hot dish them up. 



CHAPTER X. 

RAGOOS. 

SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT 



Breast of Veal. 

HALF roast it, then take out the hones, and ful 
the meat into a stew-pan, with a quart of veal gravy 
an ounce of morels, and the same quantity of truflleg 



110 RAGOOING 

When the meat has stewed till it is tender, and just 
before yo i thicken the gravy, i)ut in a few oysters, 
some pickled mushrooms, and ])ickled cucumbers, al! 
cut in small stjuare j)ieces, and the yolks of fom- eggs . 
boiled hard. In the meantime, cut your sweetbread 
into pieces, and fry it of a light brown. When the 
veal is properly stewed, dish it up, and })our the gravy 
iiot upon it. Lay your sweetbread, morels, trullles, 
and eggs round it, and garnish with pickled barberries. 
In placing this dish on the table, if the company is 
ku-ge, and the pro\ isional entertainment designed to be 
set out ii\ taste, if for supper, it must be placed at the 
bottom of the table, but if for dinner, either on the top 
or on one side. It may likewise be stewed tender, and 
served with a w hite sauce of young peas or button 
mushrooms. 

JVeck of Veal. 

Cut your veal into steaks, and flatten them with a 
rolling-pin ; then season them ^vith salt, pepper, cloves, 
and nuice ; lard them with bacon strewed with lemon- 
peel and thyme, and dip them in the yolks of eggs. 
Having done this, make up a sheet of strong cap-paper 
at the four corners in the shape of a dripping-pan, but- 
ter it all over, as also the gridiron, and set over a char- 
coal hre, put in your meat, and let it do leisurely, keep 
turning it often, and baste it well in order to keep in the 
gravy. When it is enough have ready half a pint of 
strong gravy, season it high, and put into it mushrooms 
and pickles, forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, 
oysters stewed and fried, to lay round and at the top of 
yovu* dish, and then serve it up. If for w hite ragoo, put 
in a gill of wliite wine, Avith the yolks of two eggs beat 
up with two or three spoonsful of cream ; but if a brown 
ragoo, put in red wine. 

Sweetbreads Brown. 

First scald your sweetbreads, and tlien cut them 

»uto Slices. Beat up the yolk of an e^y^ very fine, witb 

a little flour, poj)i)er, salt, and nutmeg." Dip yoursficcs 

of s\\ eetbread into this, aiul Wx them of a'nice lijiht 



MEAT. Ill 

brown. Then tliickeii a little good gravy with some 
tloiu' ; boil it well, and add catsnp or mushroom pow* 
der, a httle juice of a lemon, and chyan pepper. Put 
your sweetbreads into this ; and when they ha^'e stewed 
in it about five minutes, put the whole into yom- dish, 
and seve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Calfs Feet. 
After boiUng the feet, take out the bones, cut the 
meat into slices, and brown them in a frying-pan ; then 
put them into some good beef gravy, with morels, truf- 
fles, pickled muslu'oonis, and tlie yolks of four eggs 
boiled hard, some salt, and a little butter rolled in flour. 
Let tiiem stew together about five minutes, and then 
put all into your dish. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

Piof'^ Feet and Fars. 
First boil them till they are tender, then cut the 
ears into long narrow shoes, and split the feet do^vn 
the middle. Put into a stew-pan about half a pint of 
beef gravy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one 
of catsup, the same of browning, and a little salt. 
Thicken these with apiece of butter rolled in flour, and 
lei the feet and ears be yolked over with egg, then roll 
them in bread-crumbs and seasoning; let the feet be 
nicely bro\viied with a salamander, or fried; then let 
them boil gently, and, when enough, lay the feet in the 
middle of the dish, and the ears round them. Then 
strain your gravy, pour it over them, and garnish with 
;;urled parsley. 

•^ Fore-quai^ter of House Lamb. 
Take oiTthe knuclde-bone, and then with a sharp 
knife cut ofl' the sldn. Lard it well with bacon, and 
fry it of a nice light brown. Then put it into a stew- 
pan, and just cover it over with mutton gravy, a bunch 
of sweet herbs, some pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a 
little whole pepper. Cover it close, and let it stew 
half an hour. Then pour out the liquor, and take care 
to keep the lamb hot. Strain off the gravy, and have 
ready half a pint of oysters fried ]>rown. Pour all the 
10 



112 RAGOOIPTG 

Hit from them, and put them into tlie ^avy, ^vith two 
spoonsful of red Avine, a Tew mushrooms, and a bit of 
l)utter rolled in Hour. Boil all together, with the juice 
of half a lemon. Lay the lamh in the dish, pour the 
sauce over it, and send it to table. 

Beef. 

Take any piece of beef that has got some fat to it, 
cut the meat clean from the bones, strew some llour 
over it, and fry it in a large stew-pan with butter till 
it is of a nice brown : then cover it in the pan with 
gravy made in the following manner : take about a 
pound of coarse beef, half a pound of veal cut small, a 
l)unch of sweet herbs, an onion, some whole black and 
white pepper, two or three blades of mace, four or five 
cloves, a piece of carrot, a slice of lean bacon steeped 
in vinegar, and a crust of bread toasted brown. Add 
to these a quart of wine, and let it boil till it is half 
wasted. In the meantime pour a quart of boiling wa- 
ter into the stew-pan, cover it close, and let it stew 
gently. As soon as the gravy is done, strain it, and 
pour it into the stew-pan with the beef Then take 
an ounce of truffles and morels cut small, with some 
fresh or dried mushrooms, and two spoonsful of catsup. 
Cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and 
rich. Have ready some artichoke bottoms quartered, 
and a few pickled mushrooms. Boil the whole toge- 
ther, and when your meat is tender, and the sauce 
rich, lay the meat in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and 
serve it hot to table. 

Mutton. 

Cut some thin slices, the right way of the grain, off 
a fine leg of mutton, and pare off all the skin and fat. 
Then put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, and 
shake some flour over it ; add to these t^^'o or three 
slices of lemon, with half an onion cut very small, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put your 
meat with these into the pan, stir them together for 
five or six minutes, and then p\it in half a pint of gra- 
vy, with an anchovy mimed small, and a piece of bu' 



POULTRY, t^C. 113 

ter rolled in flour. Stir tlie whole well together, and 
when it has stewed about ten minutes, dish it up, and 
serve it *^o table. Garnish with pickles and sUced 
lemon. 



SECT. IT. 
liAGOOS o/POULTRY, VEGETABLES, c^c. 

A Goose. 

Skin your goose, dip it into boiling water, and break 
the breast-bone, so that it may lay quite flat. Season 
it with pepper and salt, and a little mace beaten tc 
powder ; lard it, and then flour it all over. Ilav ing 
done this, take about a pound of beef snet, and put into 
your stew-pan, and when melted, boiling hot, put in 
the goose. As soon as you find the goose brown all 
over, put in a quart of beef gravy boiling hot, a bunch 
of sweet herbs and a blade of mace, a few cloves, some 
whole pepper, two or tlu*ee small onions, and a bay- 
leaf Cover the pan quite close, and let it stew gen- 
tly over a slow fire. If the goose is small, it ^^ill be 
done in an hour, but if large, an hour and a half Make 
a ragoo for it in the following manner : Cut some tur- 
nips and carrots into small pieces, ^vith three or four 
onions sliced, boil all enough, put them, with half a 
pint of rich beef gravy, into a saucepan, with some 
pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let 
them stew about a quarter of an hour. When the 
goose is done, take it out of the stew-pan, drain the 
liquor it was stewed in well from it, put it into a dish, 
and pour the ragoo over it. 

Livers of Poultrij. 
Take the liver of a turkey, and the livers of .six 
fowls, and put them into cold water. When they have 
laid in it some time, take them out, and put the fowls' 
avers into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint ofgi'avy, 
a spoonful of mushrooms either pickled or fresh, the 

So. 5. P 



il4. RAGOOING 

same quantity of catsup, and a piece of butter rolled in 
flour. Seasoli tliom to your taste Avitli pepper and 
salt, and let tlieni stew gently about ten minutes. In 
the meantime, broil the turkey's liver nicely, and lay 
it in the middU', Avith tlie stewed livers round it. Pour 
the sauce over all, and garnish with lemon. 

Oysters. 
When the oysters are opened, save as much of the 
li;[uor as you can, and strain it tlirough a sieve; wash 
vour o}sters clean in warm water, and then make a 
batter as follows : Beat up the yolks of two eggs w ith 
half a nutmeg grated, cut a little lemon-peel small, a 
good deal of parsley, and add a spoonful of the juice 
of spinach, two spoonsful of cream or milk, and beat 
the whole up with (lour till it is a thick batter. Having 
prepared this, put a piece of fresh butter into a stew- 
pan, and when it is thorouglily hot, dip your oysters 
one by one into the batter, then roll them in crumbs 
of bread grated fine, and fry them quick and brown, 
Avhich done, take them out of the pan, and set them 
before the fire. Have ready a quart of chesnuts, shel- 
led and skinned, and fry them in the batter. When 
enough, take them up, pour the fat out of the pan, 
shake a little flour all over the pan, and rub a piece of 
butter all roand with a spoon. Tlien put in the oys- 
ter-liquor, three or four blades of mace, the chesnuts, 
and half a pint of white wine. Let them boil, and 
liave ready the yolks of two eggs beat up, with four 
spoonsful of cream. Stir all well together, and when 
it is thick and fine, lay the oysters in the dish, and 
pour the ragoo over them. Garnish with chesnuts 
and lemon. 

Muscles. 
Put your muscles into a saucepan, and let them 
stew till they are open. Tlien take them out of the 
shells, and save the liquor. Psit into your stew-pan a 
bit of butter, a few mushrooms chopped, a little pars- 
ley and grated lemon-peel. Stir these together, and 
then put in so-r c gi'avy, with pepper and salt ; thicken 



VEGETABLES. 115 

it with a little llom',boil it np, put in the muscles with 
their liquor, and let them be hot ; then pom* them into 
your dish, and serve them np. There are some mus- 
cles of a pernicious quaUty, to know which, when you 
stew them, put a halt-crown into the saucepan, and if 
it is discoloured, tlie muscles are not wholesome. 

MushrooQiis. 

Take some large mushrooms, peel them, and cut 
the inside. Then broil them on a gridiron, and when 
the outside is brown, put them into a stew-pan, with 
a sufficient quantity of water to cover them. When 
they have stewed ten minutes, put to them a spoonful 
of white wine, the same of browning, and a little vine- 
gar. Thicken it with butter and flour, give it a gentle 
boil, and serve it up with sippets round the dish. 

Jirticliolze Bottoms. 

Soak them in warm water for two or three hours, 
changing the water. Then put them into the stew- 
pan with some good gravy, mushroom catsup or pow- 
der, and a httle chyan pepper and salt. When they 
boil, thicken with a little flour, put them into your 
dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve them np hot 
to table. 

Asparagus. 

Take an hundred of gi'ass, scrape them clean, and 
put them into cold water ; then cut them as far as is 
good and green, and take two heads of endive, with a 
young lettuce, and an onion, and cut them all very 
small. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into your 
stew-pan, and when it is melted, put in the grass, with 
the other articles. Shake them about, and when they 
have stewed ten minutes, season them with a little 
pepper and salt, strew in a little flour, shake them 
about, and then pour in half a pint of gravy. Let them 
stew till the sauce is very good and thick, and then 
pour all into your dish. Garnish with a few of the 
«mall tops of the grass. 
10* 



116 RAGOOING 

Cucumbers. 
Slice two cucunibei-s and two onions, and fry 
thcni togctlicr in a little butter. Then drain them in 
a sieve, and put them into a saucepan, with a gill of 
gravy, two spoonsful of white wine, and a blade of 
mace. When they have stewed five or six minutes, 
put in a })iece of butter, about the size of a walnut, 
rolled in flour, a little salt and chyan pepper. Shake 
tliem well together till the whole is of a good thick- 
ness, then put them into your dish, and serve them up. 

Cucumbers 

May likewise be stewed with forcemeat. Cut your 
cucumbers into two or three pieces, according to the 
size, take all the inside out with a cutter, put in your 
forcemeat, then put some ])utter into your stew-pan 
along with the cucumbers : after they have stewed 
some time add some good gravy, a glass of white wine, 
and let them go on till tender ; then strain off the gra- 
vy, season and thicken it with cuUis. Put it into the 
dish with the cucumbers ; the dish must be glazed. 

Cauliflowers. 

Take a large cauliflower, wash it thoroughly clean, 
and separate it into pieces, in the same manner you 
would do for pickling. Stew them in a nice brown 
ciiUis till they are tender. Season with pepper and 
salt, and put them into a dish with the sauce over 
them. Garnish with a few sprigs of tiie cauliflower 
nicely boiled. 

French Beans. 

Take a quarter of a peck of beans, string them 
clean, but do not split them. Cut them across in three 
parts, and lay them in salt and water. After remain- 
ing tlius about a quarter of an hour, dry them well in 
a cloth, then put them into a pan, and when you have 
fried them of a nice brown colour, take them out, pour 
all the fat from the pan, and put into it a quarter of a 
pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan, by degrees. 



VEGETABLES. 117 

and let it boil. Tlien take a quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter rolled in a little flour, t\YO spoonsful of catsup, 
one of mushroom pickle, fom* of white wine, an onion 
stuck with six cloves, two or three blades of beaten mace, 
a little grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. 
Stir it altogether for a few minutes, and then put in the 
beans. Shake the pan till the whole is well mixed 
together, then take out the onion, and pour all into 
your dish. Garnish with what most pleases your fan- 
cy ; but pickles may be preferred. This makes a very 
pretty side dish. 

Endive. 
Take three heads of fine white endive, wash them 
thoroughly clean, and then put them into salt and wa- 
ter for three hours. Cut off the green heads of a hun- 
dred of asparagus, chop the rest small as far as it runs 
tender, and throw it likewise into salt and water. Then 
take a bunch of celery, w ash and scrape it clean, and 
cut it into pieces about three inches long. Put it into 
a saucepan with a pint of water, three or four blades 
of mace, and some white pepper tied in a cloth. 
When it has stewed till it is quite tender, put in the 
asparagus, shake the saucepan, and let it simmer till 
the grass is enough. Take the three heads of endive 
out of the water, drain them, and leave the largest 
^\ hole. Pull the others asunder, leaf by leaf, and put 
them into the stew-pan, with a pint of white wine. 
Cover the pan close, and let it boil till the endive is just 
enough. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter 
rolled in flour, cover the pan again, and keep shaking 
it. When the endive is en(.)v.gh, take it up, and lay 
tlie ^\'hole head in the middle ; then with a spooii 
take out the celery and grass, and lay them round 
it, and the other parts of the endive over that. Pour 
the liquor out of the saucepan into the stew prm, stir 
the whole together, and season it with salt. Have 
ready the yolks of two eggs, beat up with a quarter 
of a pint of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix 
this with the sauce, keep stirring it one way till it is 
Uiick, then pour it over tlie ragoo, and serve it to table 



118 RAGOOIIVG VEGETABLES. 

Cdbbfii^c Force Maigrc. 
Take a inc uliitc-heart calibage, wash it clcaru 
and boil it about five niiiuitcs. Then drain it, cut tlie 
stalk flat to stand in ii dish, carefully open the leaves, 
and take out the inside, leaving tlie outside leaves 
whole. Cut what you take out very fine : then take 
the flesh of two or tin-ee flounders or plaice, and chop 
it with the cabbaijje, tlie yolks and whites of four eggs 
boiled hard, and a handful of picked parsley. Beat 
all together in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of 
melted butter. Then mix it up with the yolk of an 
egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill the cabbage 
with this, and tie it together : put it into a deep stew- 
l)an, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of 
butter rolled in a little flour, the yolks of four eggs boil- 
ed hard, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole 
pepper and mace tied in a piece of muslin, half an 
ounce of truffles and morels, a spoonful of catsup, and a 
few pickled mushrooms. Cover it close, and let it 
simmer an hour. When it is done, take out the onion 
and spice, lay the cabbage in your dish, untie it, pour 
over the sauce, and serve it to table. 

Asparagus forced in French Rolls. 
Cut a piece out of the crust of the tops of three 
French rolls, and take out all the crumb ; but be care- 
ful that the crusts fit again in the places from whence 
they were taken. Fry the rolls brown in fresh but- 
ter : then take a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs 
well beat fine, and a little salt and nutmeg. Stir thein 
together over a slow fire till it begins to be thick. 
Have ready an hundred of small grass boiled, and save 
tops enough to stick the rolls with. Cut the rest of 
the tops small, put them into tlie cream, and fill the 
loaves with them. Before you fry the rolls, make 
holes thick in the top crusts to stick the grass in, whicli 
will make it look as if it was growing. This makes a 
very handsome side dish at a second course. 

Peas Franqois. 
Shell a quart of peas, cut a large Spanish onion 



GRAVIES. 119 

small, and two cabbage or Silesia lettuces. Put them 
into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water, a little salt, 
pepper, mace, and nutmeg, all beaten. Cover them 
close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Then 
put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a 
little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and a piece of butter 
about tlie size of a nutmeg. Cover them close, and 
let it simmer a quarter of an hour, observing frequent- 
ly to shake tlie pan. Have ready fom* artichoke 
bottoms fried, and cut in two, and when you pour the 
peas ^vith their sauce into a dish, lay them round 
it. If you choose to malve a pleasing addition, do a 
cabbage in the manner directed in the article Cab- 
bage Force-maigre, and put in the middle of the 
dish. 



CHAPTER XT. 

GRAVIES, CULLISES, and other SAUCES. 

IN the preceding chapters we have, where a proper 
opportunity offered, directed the necessary sauces to 
be made for each respective article ; but as there are 
many others which are used for different purposes, 
and on various occasions, we shall place them in the 
present chapter, beginning with 

Gravies. 

To make beef gravy, take a piece of the chuck, or 
neck, and cut it into small pieces ; then strew some 
flour over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it 
into the saucepan, with as much water as will cover 
it, an onion, a little allspice, a little pepper, and 
some salt. Cover it close, and when it boils take off 
the scum, then throw^ in a hard crust of bread, or 
some raspings, and let it stew till the gi'avy is rich 
and good, then strain it off, and pour it into your sauce 
boat. 

.^ vet^y rich Gravy. 

Take a piece of lean beef, a piece of veal, and a 
piece of mutton, and cut them into ssnall bits : then 



120 SAUCES. 

triko a large saucepan witli a cover, lay your beef at 
the hoUoiii, then your uuittou, (hen a very little piece 
of hacou, a slice or two of carrot, some mace, cloves, 
whole black and white pej)per, a lar<(e onion cut in 
slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, and then lay on your 
\eal. Cover it close, and set it over a slow fire for six 
or seven minutes, and shake the saucepan often. Then 
dust some lloiu' into it, and pour in boiling Avater till 
the meat is something more than covered. Cover 
your saucepan close, and let it stew till it is rich and 
good. Then season it to your taste w^ith salt, and 
strain it off. This gravT will be so good as to answei 
most purposes. 

Brown Gravy. 
Put a piece of butter, about the size of a hen's eg^y 
into a saucepan, and wdien it is melted shake in a little 
(lour, and let it be brown. Then by degrees stir in 
the following ingredients : half a pint of Avater, and 
the same quantity of ale or small beer that is not bit- 
ter ; an onion and a piece of lemon-peel cut small, three 
cloves, a blade of mace, some w hole pepper, a spoon- 
ful of mushroom pickle, the same quantity of catsup, 
and an anchovy. Let the whole boil together a quar- 
ter of an hour, then strain it, and it will be good for 
sauce for various dishes. 

Sauce Italian. 

Put a piece of fresh butter into your stew^-pan, 
with some mushrooms, onions, parsley, and the half of 
a laurel leaf, all cut fine ; turn the whole over the fire 
some time, and shake in a little flour ; moisten it with 
a glass of white wine, as much good broth, adding salt, 
pepper, and a little mace beat fine. Let it boil half 
an hour ; then skim away the fat, and serve it up. You 
may give it a fine flavour w liile boiling, by putting in 
a bunch of sweet herbs, but take them out before you 
serve the sauce. 

Sauce Piquante. 

Put a bit of butter with two sliced onions into a 
stew-pan, a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, 



SAUCES. 12-1 

basil, two cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and 
some parsley; turn the whole over the fire till' it be 
\ye]\ coloured ; then shake in some flour, and moisten 
it with some broth and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it 
Ijail over a slow fire, and skim and strain it through a 
sieve. Season it with salt and pepper, and serve it 
with any dish you wish to be heightened. 

Sauce Piquante, to serve cold. 

Cut some salad herbs very fine, with half a clove 
of garlic, and two shalots : mix tJie whole with mus- 
tard, sweet oil, a dash of vinegar, some salt and pepper. 

A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos and rich Sauces. 

Take about two pounds of leg of veal, and two 
slices of lean ham, and put them into a stew-pan, 
with two or three cloves, a little nutmeg, a blade of 
mace, some parsley roots, two carrots cut in pieces, 
some shalots, and two bay-leaves. Set them over a 
slow fire, cover them close, and let them do gently for 
half an hour, taking care they do not burn : then put 
in some beef broth, let it stew till it is as rich as re- 
quired, and then strain it ofi" for use. 

^1 Family Cullis. 

Take apiece of butter rolled in flour, and stir it in 
your stew pan till your flour is of a fine yellow colom' ; 
then put in some thin broth, a little gravy, a glass of 
white wine, a bundle of parsley, thyme, laurel and 
sweet-basil, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a few 
muslii'ooms, and pepper and salt. Let it stew an hour 
over a slow fire, then skim all the fat clean ofl", and 
strain it through a lawn sieve. 

A White Cullis. 

Cut a piece of veal into thin bits, and put it into a 
stew-pan, with t^vo or three slices of lean ham, and 
two onions, each cut into four pieces ; then put in 
some broth, and season ^vith mushrooms, parsley^ 
(jreen onions, and cloves. Let it stew till the virtues 

No. 6. Q 



122 •JAUCAS. 

of all are pretty weii extracted, then Like out all yorj 
meat and roots with a skimmer, put in a few cTinnbs 
of bread, and let it stew softly. Take the white part 
of a yomii^fowl, and pound it in a mortar till it is very 
fine, put tliis into your cullis, l)ut do not let it boil ; if 
i.t does not appear sniliciently white, you must add two 
dozen of blanched almonds. When it has stewed till 
it is of a good rich taste, strain it oil". 

A Cullis for Fish. 
Broil a jack or pike till it is properly done, thcr 
take oM the skin, and separate the (lesh from the bones. 
JBoil six eggs hard, and take out the yolks ; blanch a 
few almonds, beat them to a paste in a mortar, and then 
add the yolks of the eggs : mix these well with butter, 
then put in the fish, and pound ail together. Then 
take half a dozen of onions, and cut them into slices, 
two parsnips, and three carrots. Set on a stew-pan, 
put into it a piece of butter to brown, and when it boils 
put in the roots ; tmii them till they are brown, and 
then pour in a little broth to moisten them. When it 
has boiled a few^ minutes, strain it into another sauce- 
pan ; then put in a wiiole leek, some parsley, sweet* 
basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms and truffles, 
and a few crumbs of bread. When it has stewed 
gently a quarter of an hour, put in the fish, &:c. from 
the mortar. Let the whole stew some time longer, 
but be careful it does not boil. When sufficiently done, 
strain it through a coarse sieve. This is a very pro 
per sauce to thicken all made dishes. 

Ham Sauce. 
Cut some thin slices of the lean part of a dressed 
ham, and beat it w ith a rolling-pin to a mash. Put it 
mt© a saucepan, with a tea-cup full of gravy, and set it 
over a slow fire : but keep stirring it to prevent its 
sticking at the bottom. When it has been on some 
time, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of beef 
gravy, and some })epper. Cover it close, let it stew 
over a gentle Ih'e, aud when it is ([uitc done, strain it 
olf. This is a very good sauce for an> kind of veal. 



SAUCES, 125 

Essence of Ham. 

Take three or four pounds of lean ham, and cut it 
into pieces about an incli thick. Lay them in the 
bottom of a stew-pan, with shces of carrots, parsnips, 
and three or four onions cut thin. Let them stew till 
they stick to the pan, but do not let it burn. Then 
pour on some strong veal gravy by degrees, some fresh 
mushrooms cut in pieces, (but if not to be had, musli- 
room powder,) truffles and morels, cloves, basil, pars- 
ley, a crust of bread, and a leek. Cover it do^^ n close, 
and when it has simmered till it is of a good thickness 
and flavour, strain it otf. If you have preserved tJie 
gravy from a dressed ham, you may use it with tlie 
before-mentioned ingredients, instead of the ham, 
which Avill make it equally good, but not quite so iiigh 
flavoured. 

Jl Sauce for Lamb. 

Take a bit of butter, and mix it with shred pars- 
ley, shalots, and a little crumb of bread grated very 
fine. Put the whole into a stew-pan with a glass of 
good broth and as much white wine, and let it boil some 
little time. Season it with pepper and salt ; and when 
you use it squeeze a lemon into it. 

Sauce for any kind of Roast Meat. 

Take an anchovy, wash it clean, and put to it a 

glass of red wine, some gravy, a shalot cut small, and 

a little juice of a lemon. Stew these together, strain it 

off", and mix it with the gravy that runs from the meat. 

A White Sauce. 
Put some good meat broth into a stew-pan, with a 
good piece of crumb of bread, a bunch of parsley, sha- 
lots, thyme, laurel, basil, a clove, a little grated nut- 
meg, some whole mushrooms, a glass of white wine, 
salt, and pepper. Let the whole boil till half is con- 
sumed, then strain it through a sieve ; and when you 
are ready to use it, put in the yolks of three eggs, 
beat up with some cream, and thicken it over the fire, 
taking care that the eggs do not curdle. This sauce 



\ 



121 SAUCES. 

may be used with all sorts of meat or fish that is done 
white. 

Sauce for most kinds of Fish. 

Take some mutton or veal gravy, and put to it a 
little of tlie liqnor that drains from your fisii. Put it 
into a saucepan, with an onion, an anchovy, a spoonful 
of catsup, and a j^lass of white wine. Thicken it with 
a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of cream. 
If you have oysters, cockles, or shrimps, put them in 
after you take it ofl' the fire, hut it will be exceeding 
good w^ithout. If" you have no cream, instead of white 
wine you must use red. 

Sauce JVbnpareil. 

Take a turnip, carrot, and some mushrooms, cut 
them into a dish, and put them into a stew-pan with 
some butter. Let them go gently on till tender, then 
add s*. me good gravy, a glass of wiiite wine, some salt, 
mace, and pepper, with a few girkins and a dash ol 
vinegar. Roll a little butter in flour to thicken your 
sauce. This sauce is very good for braised lamb. 

Sauce a-la-JMenehout. 

Put a little cullis into a stew-pan, with a piece of 
outter rolled in flour, salt and pepper, the yolks of two 
eggs, three or four shalots cut small, and thicken it 
over the fire. This sauce should be thick, and may 
be used with every dish that is done a-la- Saint 3Iene- 
hout. It is spread over the meat or fish, which is 
afterw\ards covered with grated bread, and browned 
with a hot salamander. 

Egg Sauce. 

Boil two eggs till they are hard : first chop the whites, 
then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, and put 
them together. Then put them into a quarter of" a 
pound of good melted butter, and stir them well 
together. 

Bread Sauce 

Cut a large piece of crumb from a stale loaf, and 



SAUCES. 125 

put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of water, an 
onion, a blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns in a 
bit of cloth. Boil them a few minutes, then take out 
tlio onion and spice, mash the bread v^ery smooth, and 
add to it a piece of butter and a little salt. 

Anchovy Sauce. 

Take an anchovy, and put into it half a pint of 
gravy, with a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
a little flour, and stir all together till it boils. You 
may add, at your discretion, a little lemon-juice, cat- 
sup, red wine or walnut liquor. 

Shrimp Sauce. 

Wash half a pint of shrimps very clean, and put 
them into a Stew-pan, with a spoonful of anchovy li- 
quor, and half a pound of butter melted thick. Boil 
it up for five minutes, and squeeze in half a lemoti. Toss 
"t up, and pour it into your sauce-boat. 

Oyster Sauce. 

When the oysters are opened, preserve the liquor, 
and strain it through a fine sieve. Wash the oysters 
very clean, and take oif the beards. Put them into a 
stew-pan, and pour the liquor over them. Then add a 
large spoonful of ancho^'y liquor, half a lemon, two 
blades of mace, and thicken it with butter rolled in 
flour. Put in half a pound of butter, and boil it up till 
the butter is melted. Then take out the mace and le- 
mon, and squeeze the lemon-juice into the sauce. 
Give it a boil, stirring it all the time, and put it into 
your sauce-boat. 

To melt Butter. 

Keep a plated or tin saucepan for the purpose only 
of melting butter. Put a little water at the bottom, 
and a dust of flour. Shake them together, and cut 
the butter in slices. As it melts shake it one way ; 
.et i< boil up, and it will be smooth and thick. 



26 SAUCES. 

Caper Sauce. 
Take some capers, chop half of tlicni very fine, 
and put "Jie rest in whole. Chop also some parsley, 
with a little grated bread, and some salt ; put them 
into butter melted very smooth, let ihcm boil up, and 
then pour it into your sauce-boat 

Shalot Sauce. 
Chop five or six shalots >ery fine, put them into a 
saucepan ^vith a gill of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, 
and some pepper and salt. Stew them for a minute, 
and then pour them into your dish or sauce-boat. 

Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls. 
Take a lemon and pare off the rind, then cut it 
into slices, take the kernels out, and cut it into small 
square bits ; blanch the liver of the fowl, and chop it 
fine ; mix the lemon and liver together in a boat, pour 
on some hot melted butter, and stir it up. 

Gooseberry Sauce. 
Put some coddled gooseberries, a little juice of sor- 
rel, and a little ginger, into some melted butter. 

Fennel Sauce 
Boil a bunch of fennel and parsley, chop it very 
small, and stir it into some melted butter. 

Mint Sauce. 
Wash your mint perfectly clean from grit or dirt, 
then chop it very fine, and put to it vinegar and sugar. 

A relishing Sauce. 
Put into a small stew-pan two slices of ham, a clove 
of garlic, a laurel leaf, and two sliced onions ; let them 
heat, and then add a little broth, two spoonsful of cul- 
lis, and a spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stew them 
an hour over a slow fire, then strain it throudi a sieve, 
and pom* it into your sauce-boat. 

To crisp Parsley. 
When you have picked and washed your parsley 
quite clean, put it iuto a Dutch oven, or on a sheet of 



SAUCES. 127 

paper. Set at a moderate distance from the fire, and 
keep turning it till it is quite crisp. Lay little bits of 
butter on it, but not to make it greasy. This is a 
much better method than that of frying. 

Sauce for Wild Ducks, Teal, c^'C. 

Take a proper quantity of veal gravy, Avith some 
pepper and salt ; squeeze in the juice of two Seville 
oranges, and add a little red wine ; let the red wine 
boil some time in the gravy. 

Pontiff Sauce. 

Put two or three slices of lean veal, and the same 
of ham, into a stew-pan, with some sliced onions, car- 
rot, parsley, and a head of celery. When brown, add 
a little white wine, some good broth, a clove of garlic, 
four shalots, two cloves, a little coriander, and two 
slices of lemon-peel. Boil it over a slow fire till the 
juices are extracted from the meat, then skim it, and 
strain it through a sieve. Just before you use it, add 
a little cullis with some parsley chopped very fine. 

Aspic Sauce. 

Infuse chervil, tarragon, burnet, garden cress, and 
mint, into a little cullis for about half an hour ; then 
strain it, and add a spoonful of garlic-vinegar, with a 
iittle pepper and salt. 

Forcemeat Balls. 

Take half a pound of veal and half a pound of suet 
cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden 
bowl, shred a few sweet herbs fine, a little mace dried, 
a small nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, 
some pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix 
all these well together, then roll some of it in small 
round balls, and some in long pieces. Roll them in 
flour, and fry them of a nice brown. If they are for 
the use of white sauce, instead of frying, put a kittle 
water into a saucepan, and when it boils, put them in, 
and a few minutes wi^' do them. 
11* 



128 MADE DISHES. 

Lemon Fickle. 
Take about a score of lenioiis, grate off the out 
rimls very tliiii, and eut them into quarters, l)ut leave 
the ])()ttonis wliole. Huh on tlieni e{[uaUy half a pound 
of hay-salt, and spread them on a large pewter dish. 
Either put them in a cool oven, or let them dry gi'adu- 
ally by the hre, till the juice is all dried into the peels ; 
then put them into a well glazed pitcher, with an 
ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves beat 
fine, an ounce of nutmeg cut into thin slices, four 
ounces of garlic peeled, lialf a pint of mustard-seed 
bruised a little, and tied in a muslin bag. Pour 
upon them two quarts of boiling white wine vine- 
gar, close the pitcher well up, and let it stand five 
or six days by the fire. Shake it well up every day, 
then tie it close, and let it stand three months to take 
off the bitter. When you bottle it, put the pickle and 
emon into a hair sieve, press them well to get out the 
Jiquor, and let it stand till another day ; then pour off 
the fine, and bottle it. Let the other stand three or 
four days, and it will refine itself. Pour it oft' and bot- 
tle it, let it stand again, and bottle it till the w hole is re- 
fined. It may be put into any white sauce and will not 
hurt the colour. It is very good for fish sauce and made 
dishes. One tea-spoonful is enough for white, and two 
for brown sauce for a fowl. It is a most useful pic- 
kle, and gives a pleasant flavoin*. Always put it in be- 
fore you thicken the sauce, or put any cream in, lest tlie 
sharpness should make it curdle. 



CHAPTER XII. 
MADE D I S HE S. 

SECT. I. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Bombarded Veal. 
TAKE a fillet of veal, and having clean cut out the 
bone, make a forcemeat thus : take the crumb of a 
penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon sciiiped. an an- 



MEAT. 129 

chovy, two or three sprigs of sweet marjcnim, a little 
lemon-peel, thyme, and parsley. Chop these well to- 
gether, and season them to your taste with salt, chyan 
pepper, and a httle grated nntmeg. Mix up all toge- 
ther w_th an en;g and a little cream ; and with this 
forcemeat fill up the place from whence the hone was 
taken. Then make cuts all round tlie fillet at about 
an inch distance from each otl^er. Fill one nich with 
forcemeat, a second with spinach that has been well 
boiled and squeezed, and a third with crumbs of bread, 
chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and thus fill up the 
holes round the fillet ; wrap the caul close round it, 
and pat it into a deep pot, with a pint of water. Make 
a coarse paste to lay over it, in order to prevent the overw 
giving it a disagreeable taste. When it is taken out 
of the oven, skim oil' the fat, and put the gravy into a 
stew-pan, with a spoonful of mushroom catsup, another 
of lemon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut into 
quarters, two spoonsful of browning, and half an onnce 
of morels and truffles. Thicken it with butter rolled 
in flour, give it a gentle boil, put your veal into the dish, 
•^.nd pour your sauce over it. 

Fricandeau of Veal. 

Take the thick part of the leg of veal, shape it 
nicely oval, lard it well, and put it into boiling water. 
Let it boil up once, then take it out, and put into your 
stew-pan some slices of veal, roots, sweet herbs, with 
salt, pepper, and mace. Put in half a pint of gravy, 
then put in your fricandeau, covering it with some pep- 
per and butter. Let it go gently on foi- three hours, 
then take it out md glaze it. You may serve it with 
sorrel sauce, Avhich is almost always used, or glazed 
onions, or endive sauce. If the larded fricandeau lies 
a few liours in water, it will be a great deal the whiter. 

Veal Olives. 

Cut some large colIopsolTa fillet of veal, and hack 
them well with tlie back of a knife. Spread very thin- 
ly ibrcemeat over each, then roll them up, and either 

\o. 6. K 



130 MADE DISHES. 

toast or bake them. Make a ragoo of oysters or sweet- 
breads cut ill siiiiarc bits, a few inii^liroonis and morels, 
and lay them in the dish witii rolls of veal. Put nice 
brown j^ravy into the disli, and send tlieiii up hot, with 

forcemeat balls round them. Garnish with lemon. 

• 

Avcnadincs of Veal. 

These are done the same as the fricandeau, ex- 
cej)ting that the veal is cut into slices. Three pieces 
make a dish ; and they are served with the same 
sauces. 

Veal Cutlets en Papilotes. 

Cut them thin, and put them in square pieces of 
white paper, with salt, pepper, parsley, shalots, mush- 
rooms, all shred fine, with butter ; twist the paper 
round the cutlets ; letting the end remain micovered ; 
rub the outside of the paper with butter ; lay the cut- 
lets upon the gridiron over a slow fire, with a sheet of 
buttered paper under them. Serve them in the papers. 

Poreupine of a Breast of Veal. 
Take a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and rub it 
over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, 
and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as possible, a 
handful of parsley shred fine, the yolks of five hard 
boiled eggs chopped small, a little lemon-peel cut fine, 
the crumb of a penny loaf steeped in cream, and .sea- 
son to your taste Avith salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll 
the breast of veal close, and ske^verit np. Then cut 
some fat bacon, the lean of ham that has been a little 
boiled, and pickled cucnmbers, about two inches long. 
Lard the veal with this in rows, first ham, then bacon, 
and then cucumbers, till you have larded every j)art of 
it. Put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, 
cover it close, and set it in a slow oven for t\vo hours. 
When it comes from the oven, skim oft' the fat, and 
strain the gravy through a sieve into a stew-pan. Put 
into it a glass of white wine, a little lemon-pickle and 
caper liqmr, and a spoonfiil of mushroom catsup. 
Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, lay your 



B!£AT. 181 

porcupine en tlio disli, and pour your sauce over it. 
Have ready a roll of forcemeat made thus : take the 
crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred 
fine, the yolks of four eggs, and a few chopped oysters. 
Mix these well together, and season it to yoiu' taste 
with chyan pe})per, salt, and nutmeg. Spread it on a 
veal caul, and having rolled it up close like a collared 
eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. This done, 
cut it into four slices, lay one at each end and the 
others on the sides. Have ready your sweet-bread 
cut in slices and fried, and lay them round it ^^ itii a 
few mushrooms. This makes a grand bottom dish a< 
that time of the year when game is not to be had. 

Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bourgeois. 

Cut some lean veal into thin slices, lard them with 
streaked bacon, and season them with pepper, salt, 
beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. 
Put in the bottom of your stew-pan some slices of fat 
bacon, lay the veal upon them, cover the pan, and set 
it over the fii'e for eight or ten nu'nutes, just to bt hot 
and no more. Then w ith a brisk fn-e, brown your veal 
on both sides, and shake some flour over it. Pour in 
a quart of good broth or gravy, cover it close, and let it 
stew gently till it is enough. Then take out the slices 
of bacon, skim all the fat off clean, and beat up the 
yolks of tlu'ee eggs, with some of the gravy. Mix all 
together, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth 
and thick. Then take it up, lay your meat in tlie dish, 
pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon. 

Calf ^8 Head Siuyrise. 

When you have properly cleansed it for dressing, 
scrape a pound of fat bacon very fine, take the crumbs 
of two penny loaves, a small nutmeg grated, and sea- 
son it to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a lit- 
tle lemon-peel. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and 
mix all together into a rich forcemeat. Put a little of 
it into the ears, and the rest into the head. Then put 
it into a deep pot, just wide enouo-h to admit it. and 



132 MADE DISHES. 

put to it two quarts of water, lialf a pint of wliite 
wine, a l)lacle or two of mace, a bundle of sw^cet lierbs, 
an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and nnishroom 
catsu]), the same quantity of lemon-pickle, and a little 
salt and chyan pepj)er. Lay a coarse paste over it to 
keep in the steam, and put it f()r two hours and a half 
into a very quick oven. When you take it out, lay 
your head in a soup-dish, skim olf the fat from the 
gravy, and strain it tlirou<»h a hair sieve into a stew 
])an. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour^ 
and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks 
of six eggs well beaten, and mixed "with half a pint 
of cream. Have ready boiled a few^ forcemeat balls, 
and half an ounce of truffles and morels, but do not 
stew tiiem in the gi'avy. Pour the gravy over the head, 
and garnish with truffles and morels, forcemeat balls, 
barberries, and mushrooms. This makes an elegant 
top dish, and is not very expensive. 

Jl Calf's Pluck. 

Roast the heart stuffed with suet, sweet herbs, muX 
a little parsley, all chopped small, a few crumbs of 
bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon - 
peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an e^^. Boil ihe 
lights with part of the liver, and when they are enough 
chop them very small, and put them into a saucepan 
with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some pepper and 
salt, and a little juice of lemon. Fry the other part 
of the liver with vsome thin slices of bacon. Lay the 
mince at the bottom of the dish, the heart in the middle, 
and the fried liver and bacon round, with some crisped 
parsley. Serve theni up with plain melted butter in 
a sauce-boat. 

Loin of Veal en Epigram. 

Roast a loin of veal properly for eatiuj;, then tnke 
it up, and carefully cut off the skin froiu the back 
part without brea/ving it. Cut out the lean part, but 
leave the ends whole, to contain the following mince- 
meat ; mince all the veal very fine with the kidney 



MEAT. 133 

part, put it into a little gravy, enough to moisten it 
with the gravy that comes from the loin Put in a 
little pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the 
yolks of three eggs, and a spoonful of catsup. Thicken 
it with a little butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake 
or two over the fire, put it into the loin, and pull the 
skin gently over it. If the skin should not quite cover 
it, give the part wanting a brown with a hot iron, or 
put it into an oven for about a quarter of an hour. 
Send it up hot, and garnish with lemon and barberries. 

Pilloiv of Veal. 

Half roast a neck or breast of veal, then cut it in- 
to six pieces, and season it with pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg. Take a pound of rice, and put it to a quart of 
broth, some mace, and a little salt. Stew it over a 
stove on a very slow fire till it is thick ; but butter the 
bottom of the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of 
six eggs, and stir them into it. Then take a little round 
deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the 
bottom. Then lay the veal in around heap, and cover 
it over all with rice. R.ub it over with the yolks of 
eggs, and bake it an hour and a half Then open the 
top, and pour in a pint of good rich gravy. Send it 
hot to table, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in 
quarters. 

Shoulder of Veal a-la- Piedinontoise. 

Cut the skin of a shoulder of veal, so that it may 
hang at one end ; then lard the meat with bacon or 
ham, and season it with pepper, salt, mace, sweet 
herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel. Cover it again with 
the skin, stew it with gravy, and when it is tender take 
it up. Then take sorrel, some lettuce chopped small, 
and stew them in some butter with parsley, onions, 
and mushrooms. When the herbs are tender, put to 
them some of the liquor, s-ome sweet-breads and bits of 
liam. Let all stew together a short time ; then lift up 
the skin, lay the stewed herbs over and under, 
cover it again with the skin, moisten it with melted 



134 MADE DISHES. 

butter, strew over it crumbs of bread, and send ic to 
the oven to brown. Serve it up hot with some good 
•gravy in the dish. 

Sweetbreads of Veal a-la-Daiiphine. 

Take tlu-ee of the largest sweetbreads you can get, 
and open them in such a manner that you can stulf in 
forcemeat. IMake your forcemeat with a hirge fowl ; 
skin it, and pick ojf all the flesh. Then take half a 
pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, and beat 
them in a mortar. Season it with an anchovy, some 
nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a very little thyme, and 
some parsley. INIix these up with the yolks of two eggs, 
fill yoxr sweetbreads v/ith it, and fasten them together 
with fine wooden skewers. Put layers of bacon at the 
bottom of a stew-pan, and season them with pepper, 
salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced. 
Lay upon these thin slices of veal, and then your sweet 
breads. Cover it close, let it stand eight or ten mi- 
nutes over a slow fire, and then pour in a quart of 
boiling water or broth, and let it stew gently for two 
hours. Then take out the sweetbreads, keep them 
hot, strain the gravy, skim all the fat off, and boil it up 
till it is reduced to about half a pint. Then put in 
the sAveetbreads, and let them stew two or three mi- 
nutes in the gi'avy. Lay them in a dish, and pour 
• he gravy over them. Garnish with lemon. 

Sweetbreads en Gordineere. 

Parboil tlu^ee sweetbreads ; then take a stew-pan, 
and put into it layers of bacon, or ham and veal ; over 
which lay the sweetbreads, with the upper sides down- 
wards. Put in a layer of veal and bacon over them, 
a pint of veal broth, and three or four blades of mace. 
Stew them gently three quarters of an hour ; then 
take out the sweetbreads, strain the gravy through a 
sieve, and sldm off the fat. Make an amulet of yolks 
of eggs, in the following manner : beat up four yolks 
of eggs, put two on a plate, and set tliem over a stew- 
pan of boiiiiio; water, v.lrh another plate over t, and 



MEAT. 135 

it A\'ill be soon done. Put a little spinach jnice into the 
otlicr hall', and serve it the same. Cot it out in sprigs 
of ^vhat form yon please, put it over the sweetbreads 
in the chsh, and keep them as hot as you '^an. Tliick- 
vn the gravy with butter rolled in flour ar d two yolks 
of eggs beat up in a gill of cream. Put it over the tire, 
and keep stirring it one way till it is thick and smooth. 
Pour it over the sweetbreads, and send it to table. 
(«iu*nlsh with lemon and beet-root. 

Siveetbreads a-la-daub. 

Take three of the largest and finest sweetbreads 
you can get, and put them for five minutes into a 
saucepan of boiling water. Then take them out, and 
when they are cold, lard them with small pieces of 
bacon. Put them into a stew-pan with some good 
veal gravy, a little lemon-juice, and a spoonful of 
browning. Stew them gently a quarter of an hoiu', 
and a little before they are ready tliicken Avith flour 
and butter. Dish them up, and pour the gravy over 
them. Lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or 
oyster patties ; and garnish with barberries or parsley. 

Scotch Collops. 

Cut your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, 
about the size and thickness of a crown piece, and put 
a piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then 
lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. 
Siiake and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. 
When they are of a nice light brown take them out, 
put them into a pot, and set them before the fire to 
keep A\arm. Then put cold bntter again into your pan, 
and fry the coilo})s as before. When they are done, 
and properly brown, your tlie liquor from them into a 
stew-pan, and add to it half a pint of gravy, half a 
lem n, an anchovy, half an ounce of niorels, a large 
spoonful of browning, the same of catsup, twospoons- 
lidl of lemon-pickle, and season it to youi taste with 
sak and chyan pepper. Thicken it with butter and 
flonr, let it boil f.ve or six minutes, and then put in 
12 



136 MADE DISHES. 

your collops, and sliakc tliom over the fire, but be 
careful not to let tlieni boil. When they have sim- 
mered a little, take them out, and lay them in the 
dish. Then strain your gravy, and pour it hot on 
tlieni. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little slices 
of bacon curled roun'' a skewer and boiled. Throw 
a few mushrooms over them, and garnish A\itli bar- 
l)erries and lemon. 

Beef Collops. 

Take a large rump stake, or any piece of beef that 
is tender, and cut it into pieces in the form of Scotch 
collops, but larger. Hack them a little with a knife, 
then flour them, and having melted a little butter in 
your stew-pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick 
for about two minutes. Then put in a pint of gravy, 
a bit of butter rolled in flour, and season it with pep- 
per and salt. Cut four pickled cucumbers into thin 
slices, a few capers, half a walnut, and a little onion 
shred fine. Put these into the pan, and having stew- 
ed the whole together about five minutes, put them all 
hot into your dish, and send them to table. Garnish 
with lemon. 

Beef a-la-dauh. 

Take a rump of beef, and cut out the bone, or a 
part of the leg of mutton piece, or what is usually call- 
ed the mouse-buttock, and cut some fat bacon into 
slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter 
of an inch square. Take foiu' blades of mace, double 
that number of cloves, a little allspice, and iialf a nut- 
meg grated fine. Chop a good handful of parsley, and 
some sweet-herbs of all sorts very fine, and season 
with salt and pepper. Roll the bacon in tliese, and 
then take a large larding-pin, and with it tlirust the 
bacon through the beef. Having done this, .put it in- 
to a stew-pan, with a quantity of brown gravy suf- 
ficient to cover it. Cho]^ three blades of garlic very 
fine, and put in some fresh nuishrooms, two large 
onions, and a carrot. Stew it gently for six hours, theo 



MEAT. 137 

take it out, strain off the gravy, and skim off all the fat. 
Put your meat and gravy into the pan again, and add 
to it a gill of white wine ; and if you find it not suf 
ficiently seasoned, add a little more pepper and salt 
Stew it gently for half an hour more, and then add 
some artichoke bottoms, morels and truflles, some 
oysters, and a s])oonful of vinegar. Then put the 
meat into a s^up dish, and pour the sauce over it. 

Beef Tremblent. 

Take a brisket of beef, and tie up the fat end quite 
tight. Put it into a pot of water, and let it boil gently 
for six honrs. Season the water with a little salt, a 
handfnl of allspice, two onions, two turnips, and a 
carrot. In the mean time, put a piece of butter into 
a stew-pan, and melt it, then put in two spoonsful of 
(lour, and stir it till it is smooth. Put in a quart of 
gravy, a spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, a 
gill of white wine, and some turnips and carrots cut 
into small pieces. Stew them gently till the roots are 
tender, and season with pepper and salt. Skim the fat 
clean off, put the beef in the dish, and pour tlie sauce 
over it. Garnish with any kind of pickles. 

Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeoifie. 

Cut them in thin .slices, and set them over the fire, 
with a bit of butter, salt, pepper, parsley, onions, and 
a small clove of garlic ; the whole shred small : when 
done, take them off the fire,. but do not let them lie 
long, as they will become tough. Add a few drops of 
vinegar and a little cidlis. Beef kidneys may also be 
served a-la-braise, with sauce piquante. 

Beef a-la-mode. 

The most proper parts for this purpose are a small 
buttock, a leg of mutton piece, a clod or part of a large 
buttock. Being famished with your meat, take two 
dozen of cloves, as much mace, and half an ounce ..il 
allspice beat fine, chop a large handhil of parsley, and 
all sorts of «weet herbs fine ; cut some fat l^acort as 

No. 6. S 



138 maije dishes. 

long as tlic beef is tliick, and about a quarter of an 
inch s([uare, and put it into thf spice, «^c. and into tlie 
beef the same. Then put tiie beef into a pot, and 
cover it with water. Chop four large onions very fine, 
and six: cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and a hand- 
ful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms, ])ut all into 
tlie pot, witii a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of 
red wine ; put in some pepper and salt, some chyan 
pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, strew three handfuls of 
bread raspings, siftetl fine, all over; cover the pot close^ 
and stew it for six hours, or according to the size of 
the piece ; if a large piece, eight hours. Then take 
the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot 
over some boiling w'ater ; stra.n the gravy through a 
sieve, and pick out the champignons or mushrooms ; 
skim all the fat off clean, put it into your pot again, 
and give it a boil up ; if not seasoned enough, season 
it to your liking ; then put the gravy into your beef, 
and send it hot to table. If you like it best cold, cut 
it in slices with the gravy over it, w^hich will be a 
strong jelly. 

Beef a-la-Royal. 

Take all the bones out of a brisket of beef, and 
make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill 
one hole wdth fat bacon, a second with chopped pars- 
ley, and a third with chopped oysters. Season these 
stuffings with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When the 
beef is completely stuffed, put it into a pan, pour upon 
it a pint of wine boiling hot, dredge it well with flour, 
and send it to the oven. Let it remain there three 
hours, and when it is taken out, skim off all the fat, 
put the meat into yc u' dish, and strain the gravy over 
it. Garnish with pickles. 

Beef Olives. 

Cut some steaks from a rump of beef about half an 
inch thick, as square as you can, and about ten inches 
long ; then cut apiece of fatba^,on as wide as the beef, 
and about three parts as long Put part of the yolk of 



MEAT. 139 

an egg on the bacon. Lay some good savory force 
meat, on that some of the yolk of an egg on tlie foi'ce- 
meat, and then roll them up, and tie them round Avith 
a string in two places. Strew on some crumbs of bread, 
and over them some of the yolk* of an egg. Tlw^n fry 
them brown in a large pan, with some beef dripping, 
and when they are done take them out, and lay them 
to drain. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, put in a 
spoonfid of flour, and stir it well till it is smooth. — 
Then put in a pint of good gravy, with a gill of white 
wine, and then the olives, and let them stew an hour. 
Add some mushrooms, truffles, and morels, forcemeat 
balls, sweet-breads cut in small pieces, and some ox- 
palates. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and 
season it with pepper and salt. Shake them up, and 
having carefully skimmed off the fat, lay your olives in 
the dish, and pour the grvwy over them. Garnish 
with lemon and beet root. 

Bouille Beef. 

Put the thick end of a brisket of beef into a kettle 
and cover it with water. Let it boil fast for two hours, 
then stew it close by the fire side for six hours more, 
.ind fill up the kettle as the water decreases: Put in 
with the beef some turnips cut in little balls, some car- 
rots, and some celery. About an hour before the meat 
is done, take out as much brotli as will fill your soup 
dish, and boil in it for an hour, turnips and carrots cut 
in little round or square pieces, with some celery, and 
season it to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve it 
up in two dishes, the beef in one dish, and the soup 
in another. You may put pieces of fried bread in your 
soup, and boil in a few knots of greens ; and when 
you would have your soup very rich add a pound or 
two of mutton chops to your broth when you take it 
from the beef, and let them stew in it for half an hour ; 
but remember to take out the mutton before you serv-3 
the soup up. 

Sii'loiii of Beef en Epigram. 

Roast a sirloin of beef j and when it is done, take 
12* 



; 40 MADE DISHES. 

it oir the spit, carefully raise tlie skin, and draw it off. 
Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but observe 
not to toucli eitiier the ends or sides. Ilasii tiie meat 
in tiie following maimer: cut it into pieces about the 
size of a crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a 
stew-pan, an onion chopj)ed fme, two sj^oonsful of 
catsup, some pep])er and salt, six small pickled cucum- 
bers cut in thin slices, and the gravy that comes from 
the l)eef, with a little butter rolled in flour. Put in 
the meat, and shake it up for five minutes. Then put 
it on the sirloins, draw the skin carefully over, and 
send it to table. Garnish with lemon and pickles. 

The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced. 

Lift up the fat of the inside, cut out the meat 
quite close to the bone, and chop it small. Take a 
pound of suet, and chop that small ; tlien put to them 
some crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pep- 
per and salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two shalots 
chopped fme. Mix all together with a glass of red 
wine, and then put the meat into the place you took 
it from : cover it with the skin and fat, skewer it down 
with fme skewers, and cover it with paper. The pa- 
per musl^not be taken off till the meat is put on the 
dish, and your meat ni'.st be spitted before you take 
out the inside. Just before the meat is done, take a 
quarter of a pint of red wine, and two shalots shred 
small ; boil tiiem, and pour it into the dish, with the 
gravy that comes from the meat. Send it hot to table, 
and garnish with lemon. 

The inside of a rump of beef forced must be done 
nearly in the same manner, only lift op the outside 
skin, take the middle of the meat, and proceed as be- 
fore directed. Put it into the same place, and skewer 
it down close. 

A Round of Beef forced.. 

Rub your meat fust with common salt, then a little 
bay-salt, some salt petre, and coarse sugar. Let it lay 
a full week in this pickle, turning it every day. On 
the day it is to be dressed, wash and dry it, lard it a 



MEAT. 141 

little, and make holes, which fill with bread crumbs, 
marrow, or suet, parvsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet 
herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, 
made into stuffing. Bake it with a little w ater and 
some small beer, whole pepper, and an onion. When 
it comes from tlie oven, skim the fat clean off, put the 
meat into your dish, and pour the liquor over it. In- 
stead of baking, you may boil it, but it must be done 
gradually over a slow fire. When cold, it makes a 
handsome side-board dish for a large company. 

Beef Steaks rolled. 

Take some beefsteaks, and beat them with aclea 
ver till they are tender ; make some forcemeat with a 
pound of veal beat fine in a mortar; tlie flesh of a fowl, 
half a pound of cold ham, or gammon of bacon, fat 
and lean ; the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a sweet- 
bread, all cut very fine ; some truffles and morels 
stewed, and then cut small two shalots, some parsley, 
and a little thyme, some lemon-peel, the yolks of four 
eggs, a nutmeg gi-ated, and half a pint of cream. Mix 
all these together, and sth- them over a slow fire for 
ten minutes. Put them upon the steaks, and roll 
them up ; then skewer them tight, put them into 
the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice brown. Then 
take them from the fat, and put them into a stew-pan, 
-with a pint of good drawn gravy, a spoonful of red 
wine, two of catsup, a few pickled mushrooms, and 
let them stew^ for a quarter of an hour. Take up the 
steaks, cut them into tw o, and lay the cut side upper- 
most. Garnish with lemon. 

Beef Rump en Matelotte. 

Take your beef rump and cut it in pieces ; parboil 
them, and then boil them in some broth w ithout any 
seasoning ; when about half done, stir in a little but- 
ter with a spoonful of flour over the fire till brown, and 
moisten it with the broth of your rumps ; then put 
your rumps in with a dozen of large parboiled onions, 
a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a laurel 



1 42 MADE DISHES. 

Iciif, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and pe])per and 
salt. Let them stew till the rump and onions are 
done : then skim it well, and pnt an anchovy cut small 
and some capers cut into the sauce. Put the run\p 
in the middle of the di.sh with the onions round it. A 
beef runij) will take four hours doing. 

Beef Escarlot. 
The proper piece of beef for this purpose ts the 
brisket, w hich you nuist manage a* follows : take half 
a pound of coarse sugar, two ounces of bay salt, and a 
poinid of common salt. Mix these well together, rub 
the beef with it, put it into an earthen pan, and turn it 
every day. It may lie in this pickle a fortnight, then 
boil it, and serve it up with sa\ oys ; but it eats much 
better when cold, and cut into sJces. 

Tongue and Udder forced. 
First parboil them, then blanch the tongue, and 
stick it with cloves : then fill the udder with forcemeat 
made with veal. First wash the inside with the yolk 
of an egg, then put in the forcemeat, tie the ends close, 
and spit them, roast them, and baste them with butter. 
When they are done, put good gravy into the dish, 
sweet sauce into a cup, and serve them up. 

Tripe a-la-Kilktnny. 
Take a piece of double tripe, and cut it into square 
pieces : peel and wash ten large onions, cut each into 
two, and put them on to boil in water till they are 
tender. Then put in your tripe, and lx>il it ten mi- 
nutes. Pour off almost all the liquor, shake a little 
flour into it, and put in some butter, with a little salt 
and mustard. Shake all over the lire till the butter 
is melted, then put it into your dish, and send it to 
table as hot as possible. Garnish with lemon or bar- 
berries. This dish is greatly adftiired in Ireland. 

lldvrico of Mutton. 
Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, in 
single ribs, flatten them, and fry hem of a I'ght brown 



MEAT. 143 

Then put tlicm into a large saucepan, Avitli two quarts 
of water, and a large carrot cut in slices ; and when 
they have stewed a quarter of nn hour, put in two 
turnips cut in square pieces, the v. hite part of a head 
of celery, two cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of 
asparagus, and season all A^•ith a little chyan pepper. 
Boil all together till tender, and put it into a tureen 
or soup-dish, without any thickening to the gravy. 

Shoulder of Mutton surprised. 

Half boil a shou der of nnitton, and then put it in- 
to a stew-pan with two quarts of veal gravy, four 
ounces of rice, a little beaten mace, and a tea spoonful 
of nmshrooni pow der. Stew it an hour, or till the rice 
is enough, and then take up your mutton and keep it 
hot. Put to the rice half a pint of cream, and a piece 
of butter rolled in flour ; then shake it well, and boil 
it a few^ minutes. Lay your mutton on the dish, and 
pour your gravy ov er it. Garnish with pickles or bar- 
berries. 

To dress the Umbles of Deer. 

Take the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the 
heart : season them with a little pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg. First fry, and then stew them in some good 
gravy till they are tender. Squeeze in a little lemon ; 
take the skirts, and stuff them ^vith the forcemeat 
made with the fat of the venison, some fat of bacon, 
grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion chopped 
very small. Mix it with the yolk of an egg. When 
the skirts are stufled with this, tie them to the spit to 
roast ; but first strew over them some thyme and le- 
mon-peel. When they are done, lay the skirts in the 
middle of the dish, and then fricasee round it. 

Mutton Kehohhed. 
Cut a loin of mutton into four pieces, then take off 
the skin, rub them with the yolk of an e^s,, and strew 
over them a few crumbs of bread and a little parsley, 
shred fine. Spit and roast them, and keep basting 
them all the time wit'i fresh butter in order to make 



144 MADE DISHES. 

the froth rise. AVheii tliey are properly done, put a 
htlle hrouiigra\y under them, and send them to table. 
Garnish with pickles. 

Lci^- of Mutton a-la-haut Gout. 

Take a line leg of mutton that has hung a fort- 
night, (if the weatl.er will permit,) and stuU" every pari 
of it with sonic cloves ot garlic, rub it with pepper 
and salt, and then roast it. When it is properly done, 
send it up with some good gravy and red wine in the 
dish. 

Leg of Mutton roasted icith Oysters. 

Take a fme leg of mutton that has hung two or 
tlu'ce days, stuff every part of it w itli oysters, roast it, 
and when done, pour some good gravy into the dish, 
and garnish with horse-radish. If you prefer cockles 
you must proceed in the same manner. 

Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. 
Roast a shoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough, 
then carefully take off the skin about the thickness of 
a crown-piece, and also the shank-bone at the end. 
Season both the skin and shank-bone with pepper, 
salt, a little leiuon-peel cut small, and a few sweet 
herbs and crumbs of bread : lay this on the gridhon 
till it is of a fine brow n ; and, in the meantime, take 
the rest of the meat, and cut it like a hash in pieces, 
about the bigness of a shilling. Save the gravy, and 
put to it, with a few spoonsful of strong gravy, a little 
nutmeg, half an onion cut fme, a small bundle of herbs, 
a little pepper and salt, some girldns cut very small, a 
few mushrooms, two or three truffles cut small, two 
spoonsful of wine, and a little floin' dredged into it. 
Let all these stew together very slowly for five or six 
minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take out the 
sweet herbs, lay the hash in the dish, and the broiled 
upon it. Garnish w ith pickles. 

Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. 
Boil six sheep's rumps in veal gravy; then lard 
voiu' kidnejs with bacon, and set them before the fire 



MEAT. 145 

In a tin oven ; as soon as the rumps become tender, 
rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a Httle grated 
nutmeg, and some cliyan pepper. Skim the fat from 
tiie gravy, and put tlie .<»:ravy in a stew-pan, with 
three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of- good cream, 
and a little catsup and mushroom powder. Thicken 
it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil. Fry 
your rumps till they are of a light bro\\n ; and when 
you dish them up, lay them round on the rice, so that 
the ends may meet in the middle ; lay a kidney be- 
tween every rump, and garnish with barberries and 
red cabbage. This makes a pretty side or corner dish. 

Mutton Rumps a-la-Braise. 
Boil six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water, 
then take them out, and cut them into two, and put 
them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, 
a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, and 
a little salt and chyan pepper. Cover them close, and 
stew them till they are tender. Take them and the 
onion out, and thicken the gravy v»dth a little butter 
rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice 
of half a lemon. Boil it up till it is smooth, but not too 
thick. Then put in your rumps, give them a shake 
or two, and dish them up hot. Garnish with horse- 
radish and beet-root. For variety, you may leave the 
rumps whole, and lard six kidneys on one side, and do 
them the same as the rumps, only not boil them, and 
put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and kidneys 
round them, with the sauce over all. 

Mutton Chops in Disguise. 
Rub the chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and 
a little parsley. Roll each in half a sheet of white 
paper, well buttered within-side, and close the two 
ends. Boil some hog's lard, or beef dripping, in a 
stew-pan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a 
fine brown, then take them out, and let the fat tho- 
roughly drain from them. Lay them in your dish, and 
serve them up with good graw in a sauce-boat. Gar 
nish with horse-radish and fried parsley. 

.Mo. 7. T 



146 MADE DISHES. 

A Shoulda of Mutton called Hen and Chickens. 

Half roast a shoulder, tiicn take itnp, and cut ofl 
(lie blade at the fh-st joint, and both the (laps, to make 
the blade round; score tiie blade round in diamonds, 
throw a little j)epper and salt over it, and set it in a 
tin oven to broil. Cut the Haps and meat olV the shank 
in thin slices, and put the ^ravy that came out of the 
mutton into a stew-pan, with a little good gravy, two 
spoonsful of walnut catsup, one of browning, a little 
chyan pepper, and one or two shalots. When your 
meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, pat it 
into the dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the 
t(^p. Garnish with green pickles. 

A Quarter of Lamb forced. 
Take a large leg of lamb, cut a long slit on the 
back side, and take out the meat ; but be careful yon 
do not deface the otlier side. Then chop the meat 
small with marrow, half a pound of beef suet, some 
oysters, an anchovy vrashed, an onion, some s^veet 
herbs, a little lemon-peel, and some beaten mace and 
nutmeg. Beat all these together in a mortar, stufl 
up the leg in the shape it was before, sew it up, anc? 
rub it all over with tlie yolks of eggs beaten ; spit it 
flonr it all over, lay it to the fire, and baste it wit! 
butter. An hour will roast it. In the meantime, cu' 
the loin into steaks, season them w ith pepper, salt 
and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few^ herbs' 
Fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, then pou' 
out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of whit( 
wiue, shake it about, and then add half a pint of strong 
gravy, w herein good spice has been boiled, a quartej 
of a pint of oysters and the liquor, some muslu'ooms, 
and a spoonful of the pickle, a piece of butter roller' 
in flour, and the yolk of an Q^g beat fine; stir all thes( 
together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in tlu 
dish, and the loin round it. Pour the sauce over them 
and garnish witli lemon. 

Lamb's Bits. 
Skin the stones, and split them ; then lay them on 



MEAT. 147 

a dry cloth with tlie sweetbreads and the hvcr, and 
dredge them well with flonr. Fry tlieni in lard or 
butter till they are of a ligiit brown, and then lay them 
in a sieve to drain. Fry a good quantity of parsley, 
lay your bits on the dish, the parsley in liunps over 
them, and pour round them melted butter. 

Lamb a-la-Bechamel. 
La Bechamel is nothing more than to reduce any 
thing to the consistence of cream, till it is thick enough 
to make a sance. When it begins to thicken, pnt in 
the meat cut in slices, warm it without boihng, season 
it to your taste, and serve it up. All slices a-la- 
bechamel are done in the same manner. 

Lamb Chops en Casarole. 
Having cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of 
eggs on both sides, and strew bread crumbs over them, 
with a few cloves and mace, pepper and salt mixed ; 
fry them of a nice light brown, and put them round in 
a dish, as close as you can ; leave a hole in the middle 
to put the following sauce in : all sorts of sweet herbs 
and parsley chopped line, and stewed a little in some 
good thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. 

Barbacued Pig. 
Prepare a pig, about ten weeks old, as for roast- 
ing. Make a forcemeat of two anchovies, six sage 
loaves, and the liver of the pig, all chopped very small ; 
then put them into a mortar with the crumb of half a 
penny loaf, four ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful 
of chyan pepper, and half a pint of red wine. Beat 
them all together to a paste, put it into the pig's belly, 
and sew it up. Lay your pig down at a good distance 
before a large brisk fire, singe it well, put into your 
dripping-pan three bottles of red wine, and baste it 
well with this all the time it is roasting. When it is 
half done, put under the pig two penny loaves, and if 
you find your wine too much reduced, add more. 
When your pig is near enough, take the loaves and 
sauce out of your dripping-pan, and put to the sauce 

Jo 



148 MADE DISHES. 

one anchovy clioppcd small, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
and half a lemon. Boil it a tew minutes, then draw 
your pii;, pnta small lemon or apple in the pigs mouth, 
and a leal on eaciiside. Strain your sauce, and pour 
it on boiling hot. Send it up whole to table, and 
garnish with barberries and sliced lemon. 

Jl Pig ail Pere Duillct. 

Cut off the head, and divide the body into quarters, 
lard them with bacon, and season them well with salt, 
pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Put a layer of fif 
bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the 
middle, and the quarters round it. Then put in a 
bay-leaf, an onion shred, a lemon, with some carrots, 
parsley, and the liver, and cover it again with bacon. 
Put in a quart of broth, stew it for an hour, and then 
take it up. Put your pig into a stew-pan, pour in a 
bottle of white wine, cover it close, and let it stew 
very gently an hour. In the meantime, while it i? 
stewing in the wine, take the first gravy it was stew- 
ed in, skim off the fat, and strain it. Then take a 
sweetbread cut into five or six slices, some truffles, 
morels, and mushrooms, and stew all together till they 
are enough. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, 
or a piece of butter rolled in flour ; and when your 
pig is enough, take it out, and lay it in your dish. 
Put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, then pour 
it all over the pig, and garnish with lemon. If it is to 
be served up cold, let it stand till it is so, then drain 
it well, and wipe it, that it may look white, and lay 
it in a dish, with the head in the middle, and the 
quarters round it. Throw some gi'een parsley over 
all. Either of the quarters separately make a pretty 
dish. 

Jl Pig Matelote. 

Having taken out the entrails, and scalded your 
pig, cut off the head and pettitoes ; then cut the body 
into four quarters, and put them, with the head and 
toes, into cold water. Cover the bottom of a stew- 
pan with slices of bacon, and place the quarters over 



MEAT, c^C. 149 

them, with the pettitoes, and the head cut in two. 
Season the whole with pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, a 
little thyme, an onion, and add a bottle of white wine. 
Then lay on more slices of bacon, pat over it a quart 
of water, and let it boil Skin and gut two large eels, 
and cut tliem in pieces about five or six inches hng. 
When your pig is half done, put in your eels; then 
boil a dozen of large craw-fish, cut oft' tlie claws, and 
take oft" the shells of the tails. When your pig and 
eels are enough, lay your pig in the dish, and your 
pettitoes round it ; but do not put in the head, as that 
will make a pretty cold dish. Then lay your eels and 
craw-fish over them, and take the liquor they were 
stewed in, skim oft* the fat, and add to it half a pint 
of strong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt 
butter. Pour this over it, and garnish with lemon and 
craw-fish. Fry the brains, and lay them round, and 
all over the dish. At grand entertainments this will 
do for a first course or remove. 

Sheep's Trotters en Gratten 

Boil them in water, and then put them into a stew- 
pan with a glass of white wine, half a pini of broth, as 
much ciillis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with Stili, whole 
pepper, and mace. Stew them by a slow fire till the 
sauce is reduced, then take out the herbs, and Sb:? ve 
them upon a gratten. Sheep's trotters may be servA d 
with a ragoo of cucumbers. 



SECT. IT. 

MADE DISHES of POULTRY. &c. 

Turkey a-la-dcmb. 

Bone your turkey, but let it be so carefiiUy done, 
as not to spoil the look of it, and then stuff" it with the 
following forcemeat : chop some oysters v^ery fine, 
and mix them with some* crumbs of bread, pepper, 
i«alt, slialots, and very \itl\e thyme, parsley, and but- 



150 MADE DISHES. 

ter. Having filled your turkey with th s, sew it up, 
tie it in a cloth, and boil it white, but be careful not 
to boil it too much. Serve it up with good oyster 
sauce. Or you may make a rich gravy of the bones, 
with a piece of veal, iMitton, and bacon ; season with 
salt, pepper, shalots, and a little mace. Strain it oil 
throngli a sieve ; and having before half-boiled \oui 
turkey, stew it in this gravy just half an hour. Hav- 
ing well skimmed the gravy, dish up your turkey in it, 
after you have thickened it with a few mushrooms 
stewed white, or stewed palates, forcemeat balls, 
sweetbreads, or fried oysters, and picc(,^s of lemon. 
Dish it with the breast upwards. You may add a 
few morels and trufHes to your sauce. 

Turkey in a hurry. 

Truss a turkey with the legs inward, and flatten 
it as much as you can : then put it into a stew-pan, 
with melted lard, chopped parsley, shalots, mush- 
rooms, and a little garlic ; give it a few turns on the 
hre, and add the juice of half a lemon to keep it white. 
Then put it into another stew-pan, with slices of veal, 
one slice of ham, and melted lard, and every' thing as 
used before ; adding whole pepper and salt ; cover it 
over with slices of lard, and set it about half an hour 
over a slow fire . then add a glass of white wine and 
a little broth, and finish the brazing ; skim and sift the 
sauce, add a little culhs to make it rich, reduce it to a 
good consistence, put the turkey into your dish, and 
pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon. 

Folds a-la-Braist. 

Truss your fowl as for boiling, with the legs in the 
body; then lay over it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin 
slices, wrap it round in beet-leaves, then in a caul of 
veal, and put it into a large saucepan with three pints 
of water, a glass of Madeira wine, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, two or three blades of mace, and half a lemon ; 
stew it till it is quite tender, then take it up aud skim 
off the fat ; make your gravy pretty thick with flour and 



POULTR?'. 151 

buttei, strain it through a hair sieve, and put to it a 
pint of oysters and a tea-cupful of thick cream ; keep 
shaking your pan over the fire, and when it has sim- 
mered a sliortti ne, serve up your fowl with the hacon, 
beet-leaves, ai.J caul on, and pom- your sauce hot 
upon it. Garnish with barberries and red beet-root. 

Folds forced. 

Take a 1. rge fowl, pick it clean, draw it, cut it 
down the b ck, and take the skin off the whole ; 
cut the flesh iom the bones, and chop it with half a 
pint of oyste s, one ounce of beef marrow, and a lit- 
tle pepper and salt. Mix it up with cream ; then lay 
the meat on ^he bones, draw the skin o^^er it, and sew 
up the back. Cut large thin slices of bacon, lay theni 
on the breast of your fowl, and tie them on with pack- 
thread in diamonds. It will take an hour roasting by 
amoderate fire. Make a good brown gravy sauce, pour 
it into your dish, take the bacon oft, lay n your fowl, and 
serve it up. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oys- 
ters. It is )roper for a side-dish at dinner, or top-dish 
for supper. 

Fowls marinaded. 

Raise the skin from the breast-bone of a large 
fowl with your finger ; then take a veal sweetbread 
and cut it small, a few oysters, a few mushrooms, an 
anchovy, some pepper, a little nutmeg, some lemon- 
peel, and a little thyme ; chop all together small, and 
mix it with the yolk of an Qgg, stuft' it in between the 
skin and the flesh, but take great care you do not break 
the skin ; and then put what oysters you please in the 
body of the fowl. Paper the breast, and roast it. Make 
good gravy, and garnish with lemon. You may add 
a few mushrooms to the sauce. 

Chickens chiringrate. 

Flatten the breast-bones of your chickens with 

a rolling-pin, but be careful you do not break the skin. 

Strew some flom* over them, then frv them in butter 
ir>* 



(52 MADE DISHES. 

of a fine light brown, and drain all the fat out of the 
pan, hut leave tlie chickens in. Lay a pound of gravy 
beef, with the same quantity of veal cut into thin 
slices, over your chickens, together with a little nuice, 
two or three cloves, some ^^ hole pepper, an onion, a 
small bunch of sweet lierbs, and a piece of carrot. 
Then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it close, 
and let it stew a quarter o.^ an hour. Then takeout 
the chickens, and keep them hot : let the gravy boil 
till it is quite rich and good ; then strain it off, and put 
it into your pan again, with two spoonsful of red wine 
and a few mushrooms. Put in your chickens to heat, 
then take them up, lay them in your dish, and pour 
your sauce over them. Garnish with lemon, and a 
few sV'ces of cold ham broiled. 

Chickens a-la-braise 

Take a couple of fine chickens, lard them, and 
BCison them with pepper, salt, and mace ; then put a 
layer of veal in the bottom of a deep stew-pan, with 
a slice or two of bacon, an onion cut in pieces, apiece 
of carrot, and a layer of beef; then put in the chick- 
ens with the breast downwards, and a bundle of sweet 
herbs ; after that a layer of beef, and put in a quart 
of broth or water, cover it close, and let it stew very 
gently for an hour. In the meantime get ready a ra- 
goo made thus : take two veal sweetbreads, cut them 
small, and put them into a saucepan, with a very little 
broth or water, a few cock's-combs, truffles, and morels 
cut small, with an ox-palate. Stew them all together, 
and when your chickens are done, take them up, and 
keep them hot ; then strain the liquor they were stew- 
ed in, skim oft' the fat, and pour it into your ragoo ; 
add a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catsup, and a few 
mushrooms ; then boil all together vv ith a few artichoke 
bottoms cut in four, and asparagus tops. If your 
sauce is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rol- 
led in flour : and when properly done, lay your chick- 
ens in the dish, and oour the ragoo over them. Gar 
nish with lemon. 



POULTRY. 153 

Chickens in savoury Jelly. 

Take two chickens, and roast them. Boil some 
calf '.s feet to a strong jelly ; then take out the feet, and 
skim off the fat ; beat up the whites of three eggs, and 
mix them with half a pint of white vinegar, and the 
juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few 
peppercorns, and a little salt. Put tliem to your jelly ; 
and when it has boiled five or six minutes, strain it se- 
veral times through a jelly-bag till it is very clear. Then 
put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to 
hold your chickens, and when they are cold and the 
jelly set, lay them in with their breasts down. Then 
fill your bow 1 quite full with the rest of your jelly, 
which you must take care to keep h'om setting, so that 
^vhen you pour it into your bowl it will not break. 
liCt it stand all night ; and the next day put your ba- 
sin into warm water, pretty near the top. As soon 
as you find it loose in the basin, lay your dish over it^ 
and turn it whole. 

Chickens and Tongues. 

Boil six small chickens very white ; then take six 
hogs' tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled 
whole in milk and water, and a good deal of spinach 
boiled green. Then lay your cauliflower in the mid- 
dle, the chickens close all round, and the tongues 
round them Avith the roots outwards, and the spinach 
in little heaps between the tongues. Garnish with 
small pieces of bacon toasted, and lay apiece on each 
of the tongues. This is a good dish for a large com- 
pany. 

Pullets a-la- Sainte Menehout. 

Having trussed the legs in the body, slit them 
dow^n the back, spread them open on a table, take out 
the thigh bones, and beat them with a rolling pin. — 
Season them with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and 
sweet herbs. Then take a pound and a half of veal, 
cut it into thin slices, and lay it in a stew-pan. Cover 
It close, and set it o\'er -c ^ow fire, and when 't ]«egin9 



154 MADE DISHES. 

to stick to the pan, stir in a little flour, shake it about 
till it is a little brown, and then pour in as much broth 
as will stew the fowls. Stir them together, and put 
in a little ^vhole pepper, an onion, and a slice of bacon 
or ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them close, 
and when they ha\e stewed half an hoin% take them 
out, lay them on the gridiron to brow n on the inside, 
and then lay them before the fire to do on the outside. 
Strew over them the yolk of an c^g, and some crumbs 
of bread, and baste them with a little butter. Let 
them be of a fine brown, and boil the gravy till there 
is about enough for sauce ; then strain it, and put into 
it a few mushrooms, with a small piece of butter rol- 
led in flour. Lay the pullets in the dish, pour the 
sauce over them, and garnish with lemon. 

Ducks a-la-Braise. 
Having dressed and singed your ducks, lard them 
quite through w ith bacon rolled in shred parsley, thyme, 
onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Put in 
the bottom of a stew-pan a few slices of fat bacon, the 
same of ham or gammon of bacon, two or three slices 
of veal or beef: lay your ducks in with the breasts 
dow^n, and cover them with slices, the same as put 
under them ; cut a carrot or two, a turnip, one onion, 
a head of celery, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, 
and a little whole pepper. Cover them close down, 
and let them simmer a little over a gentle fire till the 
breasts are a light brown ; then put in some broth or 
water, cover them as close down again as you can : stew 
them gently two or three hours till enough. Then 
take some parsley, an onion or shalot, two anchovies, 
and a few" girkins or capers ; chop them all very fine, 
put them into a stew -piui w ith part of the liquor from 
the ducks, a little browning, and the juice of half a le- 
mon ; boil it up, and cut the ends of the bacon even 
with the breasts of your ducks, lay them in your dish, 
pour the sauce liot upon them, and serve them up. 

Ducks a-la-mode. 
Take a coup 2 of fine ducks, cut them into quarters, 



POULTRY. 155 

and fry them in butter till they are of a light brown. 
Then pour out all the fat, dust a little flour over them, 
and put in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a 
pint of red wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and a bun- 
dle of sweet herbs : cover them close, and let them 
stew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim 
off the fat, and thicken your sance with a bit of butter 
rolled in Hour. Put your ducks into the dish, strain 
your sauce over them, and send them to table. Gai-nish 
with lemon or barberries. 

Ducks a-la-Frangotse. 

Put two dozen of roasted chesnuts peeled into a 
pint of rich gravy, with a few leaves of thyme, two 
small onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger. 
Take a fine tame duck, lard it, and half roast it, then 
put it into the gravy, let it stm\^ ten minutes, and add 
u quarter of a pint of red wine. When the duck is 
enough take it out, boil up the gravy to a proper 
thickness, skim it very clean from the fat, lay the duck 
in the dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with 
lemon. 

•^ Goose a-la-mode. 

Pick a large fine goose clean, skin and bone* it 
nicely, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, 
and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in 
the same manner as the goose ; season it with pep- 
per, salt, and beaten mace, and roll it round the 
tongue. Season the goose in the same manner, and put 
both tongue and fowl into the goose. Put it into a 
little pot that will just hold it, with two quarts of beef 
gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Put 
some slices of ham, or good bacon, between the fowl 
and goose ; then cover it close, and stew it over a fire 
for an hour very slowly. Then take up yom' goose, 

* It may not be fvifliss to inform the cook, that the best method of 
boning a goose, or fowls of any sort, is to begin at the breast, and to 
take out the bones without cutting the back ; for without this method, 
when it is sewed up, and you come to stew it, it generally bursts in 
the back, whereby the shape of it is spoiled. 



156 MADE DISHES. 

and skim off all the fiit, strain it, and put in a glass of 
red Avine, two spoonsful of catsup, a veal sweetbread 
cut small, some trullles, niusln'oonis, and morels, a 
piece of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, some pep 
per and salt. Put the goose in again, cover it close, 
and let it stew half an hour longer. Then take it up, 
pour the ragoo over it, and garnish with lemon. Yon 
must remember to save the bones of the goose and 
fowl, and put them into the gravy when it is first set 
on. It will be an improvement if you roll some beef 
marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between 
the fowl and the goose, as it Avill make them mellow, 
and eat the finer 

A Goose marinaded, . 

Bone your goose, and stuff it with forcemeat made 
thus : take ten or tv, el\*e sage leaves, two large onions, 
and two or three large sharp apples ; chop them very 
fine, and mix them w ith the crinnb of a penny loaf, 
four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of red wine, 
half a nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and a little lemon- 
peel shred small, and the yolks of four eggs. When 
you have stuffed your goose with this, sew it up, fry 
it of a light brown, and then put it into a deep stew- 
pan, with two quarts of good gravy. Cover it close, 
and let it stew two hours ; then take it out, put it in- 
to a dish, and keep it warm. Skim the fat clean off 
from the gravy, and put into it a large spoonful of 
lemon-pickle, one of browning, and one of red wine, 
an anchovy shred fine, a little beaten mace, with pep- 
per and salt to your palate. Thicken it with flour and 
butter, dish up your goose, strain the gravy over it, 
and send it to table. 

Pigeons Compote. 

Truss six young pigeons in the same manner as 
for boiling, and make a forcemeat for them thus : — 
Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and scrape a quar- 
ter of a pound of fat bacon, which Avill answer the 
purpose better than suet. Chop a little parsley and 



POULTRY. 157 

thjine, two shalots, or an onion, some lemon-peel, and 
a little nutmeg grated ; season tliem v> ith pepper and 
salt, and mix them np with eggs. Put this forcemeat 
into the craA\s of the pigeons, lard tliem down the 
breast, and fry them brown. Then put them into a 
stew-pan, with some good brown gravy, and when 
they have stewed three quarters of an hour, thicken 
it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you 
serve them up, strain your gravy over them, and lay 
forcemeat balls round them. 

French Piipton of Pigeons. 

Put savory forcemeat, rolled out like paste, into a 
butter-dish. Then put a layer of very thin slices of 
bacon, squab pigeons, sliced sweetbread, asparagus 
tops, mushrooms, cock's-conibs, a palate boiled tender, 
and cut into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boikd 
hard. Make another forcemeat, and lay it over the 
whole like a pie-crust. Then bake it, and when it is 
enough, turn it into a dish, and pour in some good rich 
gravy. 

Pigeons a-la-Braise. 

Pick, draw, and truss some large pigeons, then 
take a stew-pan, and lay at the bottom some slices of 
bacon, veal, and onions; season the pigeons with pep- 
per, salt, some spice beat fine, and sweet herbs. Put 
them into the stew-pan, and lay upon them some more 
slices of veal and bacon ; let them stew very gently 
over a stove, and cover them down very close. When 
they are stewed, make a ragoo with veal sweetbreads, 
truffles, morels, champignons; the sweetbreads must 
be blanched and put into a stew-pan Avith a ladle full 
of gravy, a Httle ciillis, the truffles, morels, die. Let 
them all stew together w^ith the pigeons. When they 
are enough, put them into a dish, and pom* the ragoo 
over them. 

Pigeons cm Poise. 

Cut off the feet of your pigeons, and stuff them 
with brcemeat in the shape of a pear ; roll them in the 
volk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread. Put 



1.53 MADE DISHES. 

thorn into a dish well butterrd, but dc not ict them 
touch (.'acii othiT, and send them to tlio oven. Wiicn 
they arc enough, kiy them in a dish, and pour in good 
gi'avy tiiickened ^Aith tlieyolk of an egg, or butter rol- 
led in flour; but do n<>t pour your gravy over the 
pigeons. Carnisli \vi(h lemon. — This is a very gen- 
teel dish, and may be imj)ro\ ed by tlie following vari- 
ation; lay one pigeon in the middle, the rest round, 
and stewed spinach between, w ith poached eggs on the 
spinach. Garnish with notched lemon and orange cut 
in quarters, and have melted butter in boats. 

Ftncandeau of Pigeons. 

After having larded all the upper part of your 
pigeons with l)acon, stew them in tlic same manner 
as the fricandeau a-la-Bourgeoise, page 131. 

Pigeons a-la-daub. 

Put a layer of bacon into a large saucepan, then a 
layer of veal, a layer of coarse beef, and another little 
layer of veal, about a poimd of beef, and a pound of 
veal, cut very thin, a piece of carrot, a bundle of SAveet 
herbs, an onion, some black and white pepper, a blade 
or two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the 
saucepan close, set it over a slow fire, and draw it till 
it is brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. 
Then put a quart of boiling water, and let it stew till 
the gravy is quite rich and good. Strain it oft", and. 
skim off all the fat. In the meantime, stuff the bellies 
of the pigeons with forcemeat made thus : take a pound 
of veal, and a poimd of beef suet, and beat both fine 
in a mortar ; an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, 
some pepper, salt, nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon- 
peel cut small, some parsley cut small, and a Aery lit- 
tle tliyme stripped. Mix all together with the yolks 
of two eggs, fill the pigeons aa ith this, and flat the 
breasts doAvn. Flour them, and fry them in fresh but 
ter a little broAvn Then pour the fat clean out of the 
pan, and put the giavy to the pigeons. CoAcr tliern 
dose, and let thrm slew a quarter of an hoiu", or till 



pouLTRr.. 159 

they are quite enough. Then take them up, lay them 
in a dish, and pour in your sauce. On each pigeon 
lay a bay-leaf, and on each leaf a slice of bacon. Gar- 
nish with a If-nion notched. 

Pigeons a-la- Soiissel. 

Bone four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for 
pigeons compote. StuH' them, and put them into a 
stcAV-pan witli a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half 
an hour very gently, and then take them out. In tlie 
meantime make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all 
round them. Rub it over w ith the yolk of an CQ;g, and 
fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the 
gravy they w^ere stewed in, skim off the ftit, thicken 
with a little butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, 
and a gill of cream beat up. Season it with pepper 
and salt, uiix it altogether, and keep it stirring one 
way till it is smooth. Strain it into your dish, and 
putthe pigeons on. Garnish with plenty of fried parsley. 

Pigeons in a Hole. 

Pick, draw, and wasli four young pigeons, stick 
tlieir legs in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and 
season them with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put 
into the belly of each pigeon a lump of butter the size 
of a w^alnut. Lay your pigeons in a pie-dish, pour 
over them a batter made of three eggs, two spoons- 
ful of flour, and half a pint of good milk. Bake them 
in a moderate oven, and serve them to table in the 
same dish. 

Jugged Pigeons. 

Pluck and draw six pigeons, w^asli them clean, 
and dry them w^ith a cloth ; season them w* ith beaten 
mace, wiiite pepper, and salt. Put them into a jug 
with half a pound of butter upon them. Stop up the 
jug close with a cloth, that no steam can get out, then 
set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil an hour 
and a half Then take out your pigeons, put the gra- 
vy that is come from them into a pan, and add to it a 

spoonful of wine, one of catsup, a slice of lemon, hali 
14 



I()0 MADE DISHES. 

an anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. 
Boil it a little, and then Miicken it with a piece of 
butter rolled in Hour; lay your pii^eons in the dish, and 
strain your gra\y over them. Garnish with parsley 
and red cabbage. — This makes a very pretty side or 
corner dish. 

Partridges a-la-Braise. 
Take two brace of partridges, and truss the legs in- 
to the bodies ; lard thein, and season w ith beaten mace, 
pepper, and salt. Take a stew-pan, lay slices of ba- 
con at the bottom, then slices of beef, and then slices 
of veal, all cut thin, a piece of carrot, an onion cut 
small, a binidle of sweet herbs, and some whole pepper. 
Put in the partridges with the breasts downwards, lay 
some thin slices of beef and veal over them, and some 
parsley slired fine. Cover them, and let them stew 
eight or ten minutes over a slow fire ; then give yom* 
pan a shake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Co- 
ver it close, and let it stew half an hoiu* over a little 
quicker fire ; then take out your birds, keep them hot, 
povu' into the pan a pint of thin gravy, let them boil 
till there is about half a pint, then strain it off, and 
skim off all the fat. In the meantime have a veal 
sweetbread cut small, truffles and morels, cock's-combs, 
and fowls' livers stew^ed in a pint of good gravy half 
an hour, some artichoke-bottoms and asparagus tops, 
both blanched in warm water, and a few^ mushrooms. 
Then add the otlier gravy to this, and put in yoiu" 
partridges to heat. If it is not thick enough, put in a 
piece of butter rolled in flour. When thoroughly hot, 
put in your partridges into the dish, pour tiie saucp 
ovei' them, and serve them to table. 

Pheasants a-la-Braise. 
Cover the bottom of your stew-pan with a layer of 
beef, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of 
carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade or two of 
mace, a spoonful of pepper, black and white, and a 
bundle of sweet herbs. Having done this, put in your 
pheasant, and cover it w- ith a layer c)f beef and a layer 



SAME. IGl 

of veal Set it on the lire for ilve or six minutes, and 
tlien pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it 
close, and let it stew very gently an iionr and a half. 
Then take up your pheasant, and keep it hot ; let the 
gravy boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain 
it off, and put it in again. Put in a veal sweetbread 
tiiat has been stewed with the pheasant, some truffles 
and morels, livers of fowls, artichoke-bottoms, and (if 
you have them) asparagus tops. Let these simmer in 
the gravy about five or six minutes, and then add tv\ o 
spoonsful of catsup, two of red wine, a spoonful of 
browning, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. 
Shake all together, then put in yom- pheasant, with a 
few mushrooms, and let them stew about five or six 
minutes more. Then take up yom* pheasant, pour the 
ragoo over it, and lay forcemeat-balls round. Garnish 
with lemon. 

Snipes, or Woodcocks, in surtont. 

Take some forcemeat made of veal, as much beef- 
suet chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal 
quantity of crumbs of bread; mix in a little beaten 
mace, ■ pepper and salt, some parsley, a few sweet 
herbs, and the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this meat 
round the dish, and then put in the snipes, being first 
drawn and lialf roasted. Take care of the trail, chop 
it, and scatter it all o^ er the dish. Take some good 
gravy, according to the bigness of \ our surtout, some 
truffles and morels, a few muslu'ooms, a sweetbread 
cut into pieces, and artichoke-bottoms cut small. Let 
all stew together, shake them, and take the yolks of 
two or three eggs, beat them up witii a spoonful or 
tv>'o of white wine, and stu' all together one way. 
When it is thick, take it off, let it cool, and pour it 
into the surtout. Put in the yolks of a few hard egos 
here and there, season Avith beaten mace, pepper, and 
salt, to your taste ; cover with the forcemeat iiW over, 
then rub on the yolks of eggs to colour it, and send it 
to the oven. Half an hour will do it sufficiently. 
Snipes, with Purslciin Leaves. 

Or AW your snipes, and mak<^ m forcemeat for the 



{02. MADE DISHES. 

Inside, l3ut preserve your ropes for your sauce; spit 
them across upon a lark-sj)it, covered witli bacon and 
paper, and roast them gjently. For sauce you must 
take some prime thick leaves of purshiin, hlanch them 
well in water, put them into a laille of cullis and gra- 
\y, a bit of shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, 
and stew all together for half an hour gently. Have 
the ropes ready blanched and put in. Dish up your 
snipes upon thin slices of bread fried,, squeeze the juice 
of an orange into your sauce, and serve them up. 

harks a-la-Frangoise. 

Truss your larks with the legs across, and put a 
sage-leaf over the breasts. Put them on a long thin 
skew^er, and between every lark put a thin bit of ba- 
con. Then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them 
before a clear brisk fire ; baste them Avith butter, and 
strew^ over them some crumbs of bread mixed with 
flour. Fry some crumbs of bread of a fine brown in 
butter. Lay the larks round the dish, and the bread- 
crumbs in the middle. 

Florendine Hares. 

Let your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang 
up four or five days before you case it. Leave on the 
ears, but take out all the bones except those of the 
head, W'hich must be left entire. Lay your hare on 
the table, and put into it the following forcemeat : take 
the crumb of a two-penny loaf, the liver shred fine, 
half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a glass of red wine, 
an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter savory, some 
sweet-marjorum, thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and 
mitmeg. Having put this into the belly, roll it up to 
tiie head, and flisten it w ith packthread, as you would 
a collar of veal. Wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an 
hour and a half in a saucepan, covered with two quarts 
of water. As soon as the liquor is reduced to about 
a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon- 
pickle, one of catsup, and the same of brow^ning. Then 
Btew it till it is reduced to a pint, and tliicken it with 



GAME. 16^ 

butter rolled in flour. Lay round your hare a few 
niorels, and four slices of forcemeat boiled in a caul of 
a leg of veal. When you dish it up, draw the jaw- 
bones, and stick them in the sockets of the eves. Let 
the ears lie back on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle 
in the mouth. Strain your sauce over it, and garnish 
with barberries and parsley. 

Florendine Rabbits. 

Skin three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, 
and wash and dry them with a cloth. Take out the 
bones as carefully as you can, but leave the head 
whole, and proceed in the same manner as before di- 
rected for the hare. Have ready a white sauce made 
of veal gravy, a little anchovy, and the juice of half a 
lemoUj, or a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, 
and then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
flour, so as to make the sauce pretty thick. Beat up 
the yolk of an egg, put to it some thick cream, nutmeg, 
and salt, and mix it with the gravy. Let it simmer a 
little over the fire, but not boil, then pour it over your 
rabbits, and serve them up. Garnish with lemon and 
barberries. 

Jugged Hare. 

Cut your hare into small pieces, and lard tfiem 
here and there with little slips of bacon, season them 
with pepper and salt, and put them in an earthen jug, 
with a blade or two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Gov er the jug close, 
that nothing may get in ; set it in a pot of boiling wa- 
ter, and three hours will do it. Then turn it into the 
dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it 
hot to table. 

Rabbits surprised. 

Take two young rabbits, skewer them, and put 
the same kind of pudding in them as for roasted rab- 
bits. When they are roasted, take off the meat clean 
from the bones; but leave the bones whole. Chop 
the meat very fine, with a little shred parsley, some 
iemon-ix'el, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of 
14* 



164 MADE DISHES. 

cream, and a little salt. Beat up the yolks of two eggs 
boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a marble 
mortar : then mix all together, and put it into a stew- 
pan. Having stewed it live minutes, lay it on the rab- 
bits, where you took the m<'at oil', and put it close 
down with yonr hand, to make them appear like 
A\ hole rabbits. Then with a salamander brown them 
all t>\ er. Pour a good brown gravy, made as thick as 
cream, into the dish, and stick a bunch of myrtle in 
their mouths. Send them up to table, with their livers 
boiled and frothed. 

Rabbits en Casserole. 
Cut your rabbits into quarters, and then lard them 
or not, just as you please. Shake some flour over them, 
and fry them in lard or butter. Then put them into 
an earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glass 
of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a bunch oi 
sw^eet herbs, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. 
Cover them close, and let them stew half an hour; 
then dish them up, and pour the sauce over them. 
Garnish wath Seville oranges cut into thin slices and 
notched. 

JMacaroni. 
Broil four ounces of macaroni till it is quite tender, 
then lay it on a sieve to drain, and put it into a stew- 
pan, with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter 
rolled in flour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate. 
Lay Parmasan cheese roasted all over it, and send it 
up in a water-plate. 

Jlmulets. 
Take six eggs, beat them up as fine as you can, 
strain them through a hair sieve, and put them into a 
frying-pan, in which must be a quarter of a pound of 
hot butter. Throw in a little ham scraped fine, with 
shred parsley, and season them with pepper, salt, and 
nutmeg. Fry it brown on the under side, and lay it 
on your dish, but do not turn it. Hold a hot salaman 
der over it for half a minute, tc take off" tlie ra^v 



VEGETABLES, ^C. 166 

look of the eggs. Stick curled parsley i.i it, and sen^e 
it up. 

Amulets of Asparagus. 
Beat up six eggs with cream, boil some of the 
largest and hnest asparagus, and, when boiled, cut ofl 
all the green in small pieces. Mcc them with tlie 
eggs, and put in some pepper and salt. Make a slice 
of butter hot in the pan, put them in, and serve them 
up on buttered toast. 

Oyster Loaves. 
]>Iake a hole in the top of some little ronnd loaves, 
and take out all the crumb. Put some oysters into a 
stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, and the crumbs that 
were taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of but- 
ter ; stew them together live or six minutes, then put in 
a spoonful of good cream, tlien fill your loaves. Lay a 
bit of crust carefully on the top of each, and put tliem 
in the oven to crisp. 

J\Iushroom Loaves. 
Take some small buttons, and wash them as for 
pickling. Boil them a few minutes in a little water, 
and put to them two large spoonsful of cream, with a 
bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt and pepper. 
Boil these up, then fill your loaves, and do them in the 
same manner as directed in the preceding article. 

Esgs in Surtout. 
Boil half a pound of bacon cut into thin slices, and 
fi-y some bits of bread in butter: put three spoonsful of 
cullis into your dish, garnish the rim with fried bread, 
break some eggs in the middle, cover them with the 
rashers of bacon, and dotliem over a slow fire. 

Eggs and Broccoli. 
Boil your broccoli tender, observing to save a large 
bunch for the middle, and six or eight little thick sprigs 
to stick round. Toast a bit of bread as large as you 
would have it for 3^our dish or butter plate. Butter 
souKi eggs, thus : take six eggs or as many as you 



166 VEGETABLES. 

have occasion for, beat them ^vell, put them into a 
saucepan, witli a j^ood piece of butter and a little salt; 
keep beating tlieni with a s[X)on till they are thick 
enough, and then pour them on the toast. Set the 
largest bunch of broccoli in the middle, and the other 
little })ieces round and about. Garnish the dish with 
little sprigs of broccob. This is a pretty side dish or 
corner plate. 

Spinach and E^gs. 

Pick and wash your spinach very clean in several 
waters, then put it into a saucepan with a little salt ; 
cover it close, and shake the pan often. When it is 
just tender, and whilst it is green, tln'owit into a sieve 
to drain, and then lay it in your dish. Have ready a 
stew^-pan of w^ater boiling, and break as many eggs in- 
to cups -as you would poach. When the w^ater boils 
put in the eggs, have an egg slice ready to take them 
out with, lay tliem on the spinach, and serve them up 
with melted butter in a cup. Garnish with orange 
cut into quarters. 

To make Ramekins. 

Put a bit of Parmasan cheese into a stew-pan, 
bruising it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
gill of water, very little salt, and an anchovy cut small ; 
boil the whole well together, and put in as much flour 
as the sauce will suck up ; keep it over the fire till it 
forms a thick paste; then put it into a stew-pan with 
the yolks of a doi^en eggs, and b?at up the whites 
quite stiff till they will bear an egg, then mix tiie 
whites with the rest. Drop them into square paper 
cases. If well made, the ramekins will be of a light 
and of a fine colour. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

VEGETABLES and ROOTS. 

IN dressing these articles, the greatest attention must 
be paid to cleanliness. They are, particularly at some 



VEGETABLES. 167 

times of the year, subject to dust, dirt, and insects, so 
that if they are not properly cleansed, they will be 
unsatisfactory to those for ^n lioiu they are provided, 
and disreputable to the cook. To a\oid this, be care- 
ful first to pick oliall the outside leaves, then wash them 
w ell in several waters, and let them lie some time in a 
pan of clean water before you dress them. Be sure 
your saucepan is thoroughly clean, and boil them by 
themselves in plenty of water. They should always 
be brought crisp to table, which will be effected by be- 
ing careful not to boil them too much. Such are the 
general observations necessary to be attended to in 
dressing of Vegetables and Roots. We shall now 
proceed to particulars, beginning with 

t^sparagus. 
Scrape all the stalks very carefully till they look 
white, then cut them all even alike, and throw them 
into a pan of clean water, and have ready a stew-pan 
with water boiling. Put some salt in, and when they 
are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too 
much, they will lose both their colour and taste. Cut 
the roundoff a small loaf, about half an inch thick, and 
toast it brown on both sides : then dip it into the 
liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your 
dish. Pour a little melted butter over your toast, then 
lay your asparagus on the toast all round your dish, 
with the heads inwards, and send it to table, with 
melted butter in a basin. Some pour melted butter 
over them, but this is injudicious, as it makes the hand- 
ling them very disagreeable. 

Artichokes. 
Twist off the stalks, then put them into cold 
water, and wash them well. When the water boils, 
put them in with the tops dowmw^ards, that all the dust 
and sand may boil out. About an hour and a half, 
or two hours, ^vill do them. Serve them up w ith 
melted butter in cups. 

Broccoli. 
Carefully strip off all the little branches till you 



1G8 VEGETAHLES. 

come to the top one, and then with a knife peel ofl 
the hard outside skin that is on the staiks and little 
branches, and (hrou them into water. Have ready a 
stew-pan of water, thro\v in a Httle salt, and when it 
boils, put in your broccoli. When the stalks are 
tender, it is enough. Put in apiece of toasted bread, 
soaked in the water the broccoli was boiled in at the 
bottom of your dish, and put your broccoli on the top 
of it, as you do asparagus. Send them up to table 
laid in bunches, w ith butter in a boat. 

Caidijloiotrs. 

Take oll'tiie green part, then cut the flower into 
four parts, and lay them in water for an hour. Then 
have some milk and water boiling, put in the cauli- 
flowers, and be sure to skim the saucepan well. When 
tlie stalks feel tender, take up the flowers carefully, 
and put them in a cullender to drain. Then put a 
spoonful of water into a clean stew-pan, with a little 
dust of flour, about a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
little pepper and salt, and shake it round till the but- 
ter is melted, and the whole well mixed together. 
Then take half the cauliflower, and cut it as you would 
for pickling. Lay it into the stew-pan, turn it, and 
sliake the pan round for about ten minutes, which will 
be sufl[icient time to do it properly. Lay the stew ed 
in the middle of your plate, the boiled round it, and 
pour over it the butter in which the one-half was 
stewed. This is a delicate mode of dressing cauli- 
flowers; but the usual way is as follows: cut the 
stalks oft', leave a little green on, and boil them in 
spring water and salt for about fifteen minutes. Then 
take them out, drain them, and send them whole to 
table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. 

Green Peas. 

Let your peas be shelled as short a time as you can 
before they p.re dressed, as otherwise they Avill lose a 
great part of their sweetness. Put them into Iwiling 
water, witii a little salt and a lump of loaf sugar, and 



VEGETABLES. 1 C9 

when they begin to dent in the middle, the} are enough. 
Put them into a sieve, drain the water elear from them, 
and pour them into your dish. Put in them a good 
lump of butter, and stir them about with a spoon till 
it is thoroughly melted. Mix with them likewise a 
little pepper and salt. Boil a small bunch of mint by 
itself, chop it fine, and lay it in lumps round the edge 
of your dish. Melted butter is sometimes preferred 
to mixing it with the peas. 

Windsor Beans. 

These must be boiled in plenty of water, with a 
good quantity of salt in it, and when they feel tenrder, 
are enough. Boil and chop some parsley, put it into 
good melted butter, and serve them up with boiled 
bacon, and the butter and parsley, in a boat. Remem- 
ber never to boil them with bacon, as that will greatly 
discolour them. 

Kidney Beans. 

First carefully string them, then slit them down 
the middle, and cut them acvoss. Put them into salt 
and water, and when the water boils in your sauce- 
pan, put them in with a little salt. They will be soon 
done, w^iich may be known by their feeling tender. 
Drain the water clear from them, lay them in a plate, 
and send them up with butter in a sauce-boat. 

Spinach. 

Be careful to pick it exceeding clean, then wash it 
in five or six waters, put if; into a saucepan that will 
just hold it, without water, throw a little salt over it, 
and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear 
quick fire, and when you find the spinach shrunk and 
fallen to the bottom, and the liquor that comes out 
boils up, it is done. Then put it into a clean sieve to 
drain, and just give it a gentle squeeze. Lay it on 
d plate, and send it to table, with melted butter in a 
boat. 

Cabbages. 

After you have taken off the outer leaves, ana 
well washed them, quarter them, and ])oil them m 



170 ROOTS. 

plenty of water, witli :i handful of salt. When they 
are tender, drain them on a sieve, but do not press 
tiiem. Savoys and greens must be lx)iled in the same 
manner, but always by themselves, by which meana 
they will eat crisp, and be of a good colour. 

Turnij^s. 

These may be boiled in the same pot with your 
meat, and, indeed, will eat best if so done. When 
they are enough, take them out, put them into a pan, 
mash them ^vith butter, and a little salt, and in that 
state send them to table. 

A^jother method of boiling turnips is thus : Wher 
you have pared them, cut them into little square 
pieces, then put them into a saucepan, and just cover 
them with water. As soon as they are enough, take 
them off the fire, and put them into a sieve to drain. 
Then put them into a saucepan, with a good piece of 
butter, stir them over the fire a few minutes, put them 
into your di.sh, and serve them up. 

Cari^ots. 
Scrape your carrots very clean, put them into the 
pot, and when they .ire enough, take them out and 
rub them in a clean cloth. Then slice them into a 
plate, and pom' some melted butter over them. If 
they are young, half an hour will sufficiently boil them. 

Pc(7\snij)s. 
These must be boiled in plenty of water, and when 
they are soft, which you may know^ by running a fork 
into them, take them up. Scrape them all fine with 
a knife, throw awfly all the sticky part, and send them 
to table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. 

Potatoes. 
These must be boiled in so small a quantity of 
water as will be just sufficient to keep the saucepan 
from bm-ning. Keep them close covered, and as soon 
as the skins begin to crack, they are enough. Having 
drained oi;t all the water, let them remain in the saiicC' 
pan covered for two or three minutes ; then peel them, 



BOILED PUDDINGS. 171 

lay them in a olate, and pour some melted butter over 
them. Or ^vhen you have peeled them, you may do 
thus : lay them on the gridiron till they are of a fine 
brown, and then send them to table. 

Potatoes scolloped. 
Having boiled your potatoes, beat them fine in a 
bowl, with s< :ue cream, a large piece of butter, and a 
little salt. Put them into scollop-shells, make tliem 
smooth on the top, score them Avith a knife, and lay 
thin slices of butter on the tops of them. Then put 
them into a Dutch oven to brown before the fire. — 
This makes a pretty dish for a light supper. 

Hops. 
They are to be boiled in water, with a little salt, 
and eat as a salad, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

PUDDINGS. 

IN tliis degree of cookery some previous and gene- 
ral observations are necessary, the most material ol 
which are, first, that your cloth be thoroughly clean, 
and before you put your pudding into it, dip it into 
boiling Avater, streAV some flour over it, and then give 
it a shake. If it is a bread pudding, tie it loose ; but 
if a batter pudding, close; andncAerput your pudding 
in till the Avater boils. All bread and custard puddings 
that are baked require time and a moderate oven ; but 
batter and rice puddings a qi ick oven. Before you 
put your pudding into the dish for baking be carefiil 
ahvays to moisten the bottom and sides Avith butter. 



SFXT. I. 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 

Bread Pudding. 

Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into very 
15 



172 BOILED. 

tlirn slices, put it into a quart of milk, and set it over a 
a chaling-disli of coals till the bread has soaked up al 
the milk. Then put in a piece of butter, stir it round, 
ami let it stand till it is cold; or you may lx)il your 
milk, and pour it over the bread, and cover it up close, 
which \vill equally answer the same purpose. Then 
take the yolks of six eggs, the Avhites of three, and 
beat them up with a little rose-water and nutmeg, and 
a little salt and sugar. Mix all well together, and 
put it into your cloth, tie it loose to give it room to 
swell, and boil it an hour. When done, put it into 
your dish, pour melted butter over, and serve it tc 
table. 

Another, but more expensive, way of making a 
bread-pudding is this : cut thin all the crumb of a 
stale peiuiy loaf, and put it into a quart of cream, set 
it over a slow fire, till it is scalding hot, and then let it 
stand till it is cold. Beat up the bread and the cream 
well together, and grate in some nutmeg. Take twelve 
bitter almonds, boil them in tw o spoonsful of water, 
pour the water to the cream, stir it in with a little salt, 
and sweeten it to your taste. Blanch the almonds in 
a mortar, with two spoonsful of rose or orange-flower 
water, till they are a fine paste ; then mix them by 
degrees with the cream. Take the yolks of eight eggs, 
and the whites of four, beat them up well, jiut them 
into the cream likewise, and mix the whok well to- 
gether. Dip your cloth into warm water, and flour it 
well, before you put in the pudding; tie it loose, and 
let it boil an hour. Take care the water boils when 
you put it in, and that it keeps so all the time. When 
it is enough, turn it into yoiu' dish. Melt some but- 
ter, and put in it two or three spoonsful of white wine 
or sack ; give it a boil, and pour it over your pudding. 
Then strew a good deal of fine sugar over your pud- 
ding and dish, and send it hot to table. Instead of a 
cloth, you may boil it in a bowl or basin, which is in- 
deed the better way of the two. In this case, when 
it is enough, take it up in the basin, and let it stand 
a minute or two to cool; then untie the straig, wrap 



PUDDINGS. 173 

tlie clotli round the basin, lay yoiu- dish over it, and 
turn the padding ont ; then take off the basin and cloth 
with great care, otherwise a hght pudding will be sub- 
ject to break in turning out. 

Batter Pudding. 

Take a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of six eggs, 
and the whites of three, and mix them with a quarter 
of a pint of milk. Then take six spoonsful of ilour, a 
tea-spoonful of salt, and one of ginger. Put to these 
the remainder of the milk, mix all well together, put 
it into your cloth, and boil it an hour and a quarter. 
Pour melted butter over it when you serve it up. 

A batter pudding may be made without eggs, in 
which case proceed thus : take a quart of milk, mix 
six spoonsful of flom* with a little of the milk first, a 
tea-spoonful of salt, two of beaten ginger, and two of 
the tincture of saffron. Then mix all together, and 
boil it an hour. 

Custard Pudding. 

Put a piece of cinnamon into a pint of thick cream, 
boil it, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar. When 
cold, put in t!ie yolks of five eggs well beaten : stir 
this over the fire till it is pretty thick, but be careful 
it does not boil. When quite cold, butter a clotli well, 
dust it with flour, tie the custard in it very close, and 
boil it three quarters of an hour. When you take it 
up put it into a basin to cool a little; untie the cloth, 
lay the dish on the basin, and turn it carefully out. 
Grate over it a little sugar, and serv^e it up with melted 
butter and a little wine in a boat. 

QuaJdng Pudding. 

Take a quart of cream, boil it, and let it stand till 
almost cold; then beat up four eggs very fine, with a 
spoonful and a half of flour : mix them well with your 
cream : add sugar and nutmeg to your palate. Tie 
it close up in a cloth well buttered. Let it boil an 
hour, and then turn it carefully out Pour over it 
melted buttrr. 



174 BOILED 

Sago Pudding. 
Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of milk till ten 
dcr. When cold, add live eggs, two Naples biscuits, 
a little brandy, ind sugar to the taste. Boil it in a 
basin, and servt it up with melted butter, and a little 
wine and sug-ar. 

J\/larroio Pudding. 

Grate a small loaf into crumbs, and pour on them 
a pint of boiling hot cream. Cut a pound of beef mar- 
row ve]-y thin, beat up four eggs well, and then add a 
glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to yoiu* taste. 
lilix them all well together, and boil it three quarters 
of an hour. Cut two ounces of citron into very thin 
bits, and when you dish up your pudding, stick them 
all over it. 

Biscuit Pudding. 

Pour a pint of boiling milk or cream over sLx pen- 
ny Naples biscuits grated, and cover it close. When 
cold, add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, 
some nutmeg, a little brandy, half a spoonful of flour, 
and some sugar. Boil it an hour in a china basin, and 
serve it up with melted butter, wine, and sugar. 

Almond Pudding. 
Take a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them as 
fine as possible, with three spoonsful of rose-water, 
and a gill of sack or white wine. Mix in half a pound 
of fresh butter melted, with fwe yolks of eggs, and two 
whites, a quart of cream, a quarter of a pound of 
sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and 
three spoonsful of crumbs of bread. Mix all well to- 
gether, and boil it. Half an hour will do it. 

Tansey Pu dding . 
Put as much boiling cream to four Naples biscuits 
grated as will wet them, beat them with the yolks of 
four eggs. Have ready a few chopped tansey-leaves, 
with as much sphiach as will make it pretty green. 
Be careful not to put too n.uch tansey in, because it 
will make it bitter. Mix all toijether when the cream 



PUDDINGS. 175 

is cold, with a little sugar, and set it over a slow lire 
till it gi'ows tliick, tlieu take it off, and, when cold, put 
it in a cloth, well buttered and floured ; tie it up close, 
and let it boil three quarters of an hoin* ; then take it 
up in a basin, and let it stand one quarter, then turn 
it carefully out, and put white wine sauce round it. 

Or you may do it thus : 

Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch 
them, and beat them very hue with rose-water; slice 
a French roll verv thin, put in a pint of cream boiling 
hot; beat four eggs very well, and mix with the eggs, 
when bea'ten, a little sugar and grated nutmeg, a glass 
of brandy, a little juice of tansey, and the juice of 
spinach to make it green. Put all the ingredients into 
a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pomid of butter, and 
give it a gentle boil. You may either put it into a 
cloth and boil it, or bake it in a dish. 

Herb Pudding. 

Steep a quart of grits in warm water half an hour, 
and then cut a pound of hog's lard into little bits. 
Take of spinach, beet:^, parsley, and leeks, a handful 
of each: three large onions chopped small, and three 
sage leaves cut very fine. Put in a little salt, mix all 
well together, and tie it close. It will require to be 
taken up while boiling, in order to loosen the string. 

Spinach Pudding. 

Pick and wash clean a quarter of a peck of spinach, 
put it into a saucepan with a little salt, cover it close, 
and when it is boiled just tender, throw it into a sieve 
to drain. Then chop it with a knife, beat up six eggs, 
and mix with it half a pint of cream, and a stale roll 
grated fine, a little nutmeg, and a quarter of a poimd 
of melted butter. Stir all well together, put it nito 
tlie saucepan in which you boiled the spinacli, and 
keep stirring it all the time till it begins to thicken. 
Then wet and flour your cloth well, tie it u}>, and boii 
it an hour. When done, turn it into your dish, pou'* 



176 BOILED 

melted butter o\ cr it, with the juice of Seville orange 
and strew on a little grated sugar. 

Cream, Pudding. 

J3oiL a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and 
half a nutmeg grated, and then let it stand to cool. 
Beat up eight eggs, and tlirec whites, and strain them 
well. Mix a spoonful of flour with them, a quarter 
of a poimd of ahnonds blanched and beat very fine, 
witli a spoonful of orange-flower or ro<e-water. Then 
by degrees mix in the cream, and stir a.l well together. 
Take a thick cloth, wet and flour it well, pour in your 
mixture, tie it close, and boil it half an horn'. Let 
the water boil fast all the time, and, when done, turn 
it in your dish, pour melted butter over it, w ith a lit- 
tle wine or sack, and strew on the top fine sugar 
gi'ated. 

Hunting Pudding. 

Mix eight eggs beat up fine with a pint of good 
cream, and a pound of flour. Beat them w^ell toge- 
ther, and put to them a pound of beef suet finely chop- 
ped, a pound of currants well cleaned, half a pound 
of jar-raisins stoned and chopped small, two ounces of 
candied orange cut small, the same of candied citron, 
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a large 
nutmeg grated. Mix all together with half a gill of 
biandy, put it into a cloth, and boil it for four hours. 
Be sure to put it in when the water boils, and keep it 
boihng all the time. When done, turn it into a dish, 
and strew^ over it powdered sugar. 

Steak Pudding. 
Make a good crust, with flour and suet shred fine, 
and mix it up with cold water; season it witli a little 
salt, and make it pretty stifl'. Take either beef or 
mutton steaks, well season them with pepper and salt, 
and make it up as you would an a})ple pudding, tie 
i^ in a clotii, and put it in when the water boils. If a 
small pudding, it will take three hom's: if a large one, 
five hours. 



PUDDINGS. 177 

Calfs Foot Pudding. 
MI^CE very fine a pound of calf's feet, first taking 
out the fat and brown. Then take a pound and a half 
of suet, pick oft' all the skin, and shred it small. Take 
six eggs, all the yolks, and but half the whites, and 
beat them w^ell. Then take the crumb of a half-penny 
roll grated, a pound of currants clean picked and wash- 
ed, and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as will mois- 
ten it with the eggs, a handful of flour, and a little salt, 
nutmeg, and sugar, to season it to your taste. Boil it 
four hours ; then take it up, lay it in your dish, and 
pom- melted butter over it. If you put wdiite w ine 
and sugar into the butter it will be a pleasing addition. 

Prune Pudding. 
Take a few spoonsful from a quart of milk, and 
beat in it six yolks of eggs and three whites, four 
spoonsful of flour, a little salt, and two spoonsful of 
beaten ginger. Then by degrees mix in the rest of 
the milk, and a pound of prunes. Tie it up in a cloth, 
boil it an hour, and pour over it melted butter. Dam- 
sons done in the same manner are equally good. 

Plum Pudding. 

Cut a pound of suet into small pieces, but not too 
fine, a pound of currants w ashed clean, a pound of rai- 
sins stoned, eight yolks of eggs, and four whites, hall 
a nutmeg gi'ated, a tea-spoonful of beaten ginger, a 
pound of flour, and a pint of milk. Beat the eggs first, 
then put to them half the milk, and beat them toge- 
ther ; and, by degrees, stir in the flour, then the suet, 
spice and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it well 
togetlier, very thick. It will take four hours boiling. 
When done, turn it into your dish, and strew over it 
grated sugar. 

Hasty Pudding. 

Put four bay-leaves into a quart of milk, and set 
it on the fire t^ boil. Then beat up the yolks of two 
eggs wath a 'ittle salt. Take two or three spoonsful 
ofiF.ilk, and lieat up with your eggs, take out the bay 



173 BOILED 

leaves, and stir up tl^c remainder of the milk. Then 
with a wooden spoon m one hand, and flour in the 
other, stir it in till it is of a good thickness, but not 
too tiiick. Let it boil, and keep it stirring ; then pour 
it into a disli, and stick pieces of ])utter in different 
places. Remember, before you stir in the flour to 
take out the bay-leaves. 

Oatmeal Pudding. 
Take a pint of whole oatmeal, and steep it in a 
quart of boiled milk over night. In the morning take 
half a pomid of beef suet shred fine, and mix with tlie 
oatmeal and milk ; then add to them some grated nut- 
meg and a little salt, w^ith three eggs beat up, a quar- 
ter of a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins, 
and as much sugar as will sweeten it. Stir the whole 
well together, tie it pretty close, and boil it two hours. 
When done, turn it into your dish, and pour over it 
melted butter. 

Suet Pudding. 
Take six spoonsful of flour, a pound ot suet shred 
small, four eggs, a spoonful of beaten ginger, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a quart of milk. Mix the eggs 
and flour w ith a pint of the milk very thick, and with 
the seasoning mix in the rest of the milk w ith the suet. 
Let your batter be pretty thick, and boil it two hours. 

Veal Suet Puddinsr. 

O 

Take a three-penny loaf, and cut the crumb of it 
into slices. Boil and pour two quarts of milk on the 
bread, and then put to it one pound of veal suet melt- 
ed down. Add to these one pound of currants, and 
sugar to the taste, half a nutmeg, and six eggs well 
mixed together. This pudding maybe either boiled 
or baked; if the latter, bj careful to well butter the 
inside of your dish. 

Cabbage Pudding. 
Take one pound of l)^^ef suet, and as much of the 
lean part of a leg of veal. Then take a little cabbage 
well washed ^ and scald it Bruise the suet, veal, and 



PUDDINGS 179 

cabbage together in a marble mortar, and season it 
with mace, nutmeg, ginger, a Uttle pepper and salt, 
and put in some green gooseberries, grapes, or bar- 
berries. Mix them all well with the yolks of four or 
live eggs well beaten. Wrap all up together in a green 
cabbage leaf, and tie it in a cloth. It will take about 
an hour boiling. 

A Spoonful Puddins;. 

Take a sjwonful of flour, a spoonful of cream or 

milk, an egg, a little nutmeg, ginger, and salt. ■ Mix 

all together, and boil it in a little wooden dish half an 

liour. If you think proper you may add a few currants. 

White Puddings in Skins. 
Boil half a pound of rice in milk till it is soft, hav- 
ing first washed the rice well in warm water. Put it 
into a sieve to draii:, and beat half a pound of Jordan 
almonds very fine wath some rose-water. Wash and 
dry a pound of cm-rants, cut in ^?mall bits a pound of 
hog"s lard, beat up six eggs well, half a pound of sugar, 
a large nutmeg grated, a stick of cinnamon, a little 
mace, and a little salt. Mix tkcm well together, fill 
your skins, and boil them. 

Apple Pudding. 

Having made apuft'paste, roll it near half an inch 
thick, and fill the crust with apples pared and cored. 
Grate in a little lemon-peel, and, in the winter, a lit- 
tle lemon-juice, (as it quickens the apples,) put in some 
sugar, close the crust, and tie it in a cloth. A small 
pudding will take two hours boiling, and a large one 
tliree or four. 

Apple Dumplings. 

AVhen you have pared your apples, take out the 
core with the apple-corer, and fill up tiie hole with 
quince, orange-marmalade, or sugar, as may best suit 
you. Then take a piece of paste, make a hole in it, 
lay in your apples, put another piece of paste in the 
same form over it, and close it up round the side of the 
apples. Put them into boiling water, and about three 



180 BOILED 

quarters of an hour will do them. Serve t)iem up 
wilh melted butter poured over them. 

Suet Dumplings. 

Take a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of suet, a 
little salt and nutmeg, two tea-sj)oonsful of ginger, and 
such a tpiantity of Hour as 'svill make it into a light 
paste. When the water l3oils, make the paste *nto 
dumplings, a)\d roll them in a little flour. Then put 
them into the water, and move them gently, to pre- 
vent their sticking. A little more than half an hour 
will boil them. 

Raspherri) Dumplings. 

Make a good pufl' paste and roll it. Spread over it 
raspberry jam, roll it into dumplings, and lx)il them 
an hour. Pour melted butter into the dish, and strew 
over them grated sugar. 

Yeast Dumplings. 
Make a light dough with flour, water, yeast, and 
salt, as for bread, cover it Avith a cloth, and set it be- 
fore the fire for half an hour. Then have a saucepan 
of water on the fii'e, and when it boils take ihe dough, 
and make it into round balls, as big as a large hen's 
egg. Then flatten them with your hand, put them 
into the boiling water, and a few minutes will do them. 
Take care that they do not fall to the bottom of the 
pot or saucepan, as in that case they will then be hea- 
vy, and be sure to keep the water boiling all the time. 
When they are enough, take them up, and lay them 
in your dish, with melted butter in a boat. 

JShrfulk Dumplings. 
Take half a pint of milk, two eggs, a little salt, and 
make them into a good thick batter with flour. Have 
ready a clean saucepan of ^vater boiling, and drop your 
batter into it, and two or three minutes will boil them ; 
but be particularly careful that the water boils fast 
when you put the batter in. Then throw them into 
a sieve to drain, tm-n them into a dish, and stir a lump 
of fresh butter into them.. 



PUDDINGS. 181 

Hard Dumplings. 

Make some flour and water, with a little salt, into 
a sort of paste. Roll them in balls in a little flour, 
throw them into boiling water, and half an hour wilJ 
boil them. They are best boiled with a good piece 
of beef 

Potatoe Pudding. 

Boil half a pound of potatoes till they are soft, then 
peel them, mash them with the back of a spoon, and 
rub them through a sieve to have them line and smooth. 
Then take half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a 
pound of fine sugar, and beat them well together till 
they are quite smooth. Beat up six eggs, whites as 
well as yolks, and stir them in with a glass of sack or 
brandy. Pour it into your cloth, tie it up, and about 
half an hour will do it. When you take it out, melt 
some butter, put into it a glass of wine sweetened with 
sugar, and pour it over your pudding. 

Black Puddings. 

Before you kill a hog, get a peck of grits, boil 
them half an hour in water, then drain them, and put 
them in a clean tub, or large pan. Then kill your hog, 
save two quarts of the blood, and keep stirring it till it 
is quite cold ; then mix it with your grits, and stir 
them well togetlier. Season with a large spoonful of 
salt, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg 
together, an equal quantity of each ; dry it, beat it 
well, and mix in. Take a little winter savory, sweet- 
Miarjorum, and thyme, penny-royal stripped of the 
stalks, and chopped very fine, just lenough to season 
tiicin, and to give them a flavour, but no more. The 
next day take the leaf of the hog, and cut it into dice, 
scrape and wash the guts very clean, then tie one end, 
and begin to fill them ; mix in the fat as you fill them ; 
be sure to put in a good deal of fit, fill the skins three 
parts full, tie the other end, and make your pudding 
what length you please ; prick tlicm with a pin, and 
put them ir a kettle of boiling water. Boil them very 



182 DAKED 

softly an hour, tlien take them out, and lav them on 
clean straw. 



SECT. II 
BAKED PUDDINGS. 

Vermicelli Puddings. 

Take four ounces of vermicelli, and boil it in a 
pint of new milk till it is soft, with a stick or two ot 
cinnamon. Then put in half a pint of thick cream, a 
quarter of a pound of butter, the like quantity of sugar, 
and the yolks of four eggs beaten fine. Bake it with- 
out paste in an earthen dish. 

Sweetmeat Pudding. 
Cover your dish with a thin pufT-paste, and then 
take candied orange or lemon-peel, and citron, of each 
an ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the 
bottom of the dish. Then beat up eight yolks of eggs, 
and two whites, and put to them half a pound of sugai*, 
and half a pound of melted butter. Mix the whole 
well together, put it on the sweetmeats, and send it tt 
a moderate heated oven. About an hour ^^^ll do it. 



Orange Pudding 

Boil the rind of a Seville orange very soft, then 
beat it in a marble mortar with the juice, and put to it 
two Naples biscuits grated very fine, a quarter of a 
pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, and the yolks 
of six eggs. Mix them well together, lay a good puff- 
paste round the edge of your dish, and bake it an Iioui 
in a gentle oven. Or you may make it thus : 

Take the yolks of sixteen eggs, beat them well \vith 
half a pint of melted butter, grate in the rinds of two 
fine Seville oranges, beat in half a pound of fine sugar. 
two spoonsful of orange-flower water, two of rose- 
water, a gill of sack, half a pint of cream, two Naples 
biscuits, or the crumb of a pemiy loaf soaked in cream 
and mix all well together. ^lake a thin puff-paste. 



PUDDINGS. 183 

and lay it all round the rim, and ov^er the dish. Then 
pour in the pn Uling, and send it to the oven. 

Lemon Pudding. 

Take tlu'ce lemons, cut the rinds off Aery thin, and 
boil them in three quarts of water till they are tender. 
Then pound them very fine in a mortar, and have rea- 
dy a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuits boiled up in 
a quart of milk or cream. Mix them and the lemon 
rind with it, and beat up twelve yolks and six whites 
of eggs very fine. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh 
])utter, and put in half a pound of sugar, and a little 
orange-flower water. Mix all well together, put it 
over the fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then 
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put puff-paste 
round your dish, then pour in your pudding, cut some 
candied sweetmeats and strew over it, and bake it 
three quarters 6f an hour. Or you may make it in 
this manner : 

Blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds 
AN'ith orange-flower water, and add to them half a 
pound of cold butter, the yolks of ten eggs, the juice 
of a large lemon, and half the rind grated fine. Work 
tiiem in a marble mortar till they look white and light, 
then put the puft-pastc on your dish, pour in your pud- 
ding, and bake it half an hour. 

Almond Pudding 

Take a little more than three ounces of the crumb 
of white bread sliced, or grated, and steep it in a pint 
and a half of cream. Then beat half a pint of blanch- 
ed almonds very fine, till they are like a paste, with a 
little orange-flower water. Beat up the yolks of eight 
eggs, and the whites of four. Mix all well together, 
put in a quarter of a pound of ^hite sugar, and stir in 
al)out a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Put it 
o\ er the fire, and keep stirring it till it is thick. Lay 
a sheet of puff-paste at the bottom of you.r dish, and 
pour in the ingredients Half an hour will bake it 



134 BAKED 

Rice Pudding. 

Boil four ounces of ground rice till it is soft, then 
beat up the yolks of four eggs, and put to them a pint 
of cream, four ounces of sugar, and a quarter of a pound 
of butter. Mix them ^vell together, and either boil or 
bake it. Or you may make it thus : 

Take a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a 
saucepan, with a quart of new milk, a stick of cinna- 
mon, and stir it often to prevent its sticking to the 
saucepan. When boiled till thick, put it into a pan, stir 
in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and sweeten it 
to your palate. Grate in half a nutmeg, add three or 
four spoonsfid of rose-water, and stir all a veil together. 
When it is cold, beat up eight eggs with half the 
whites, mix them well in, pour the whole in a butter- 
ed dish, and send it to the oven. 

If you would make a cheap boiled rice pudding, pro- 
ceed thus : Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and 
half a pound of raisins, and tie them in a cloth ; but 
give the rice a good deal of room to swell. Boil it two 
hours, and when it is enough, turn it into yoiu* dish, 
and pour melted butter and sugar over it, Avith a lit- 
tle nutmeg. Or you may make it thus : Tie a quar- 
ter of a pound of rice in a cloth, but give it room for 
swelling. Boil it an hour, then take it up, imtie it, 
and with a spoon stir in a quarter of a pound of butter. 
Grate some nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste. 
Then tie it up close, and boil it another hour. Then 
take it up, turn it into your dish, and pour over it 
melted butter. 

Millet Pudding. 

Wash and pick clean h:ilf a pound of millet-seed, 
put it into half a poimd of sugar, a whole nutmeg grat- 
ed, and three quarts of milk, and break in half a pound 
of fresh butter. Butter your dish, pour it in, and send 
it to the oven. 

Oat Pudding. 

Take a pound of oats with the husks off, and lay 
them in new milk, eight ounces of raisins of the sud 



PUDDINGS 185 

Stoned, the same quantity of currants well picked and 
washed, a pound of suet shred fine, and six new laid 
eggs well beat up. Season Avitli luitnieg, beaten gin- 
ger, and salt, and mix them all well together. 

Transparent Pudding. 
Beat up eight eggs well in a pan, and put to them 
half a pound of butter, and the same quantity of loaf 
sugar beat tine, with a little grated nutmeg. Set it ol 
the fire, and keep stirring it till it is the thickness of 
buttered eggs. Then put it into a basin to cool, roll a 
rich putf-paste very thin, lay it round the edge of your 
dish, and pour in the ingredients. Put it into a mod- 
rate heated oven, and about half an hour wih do it. 

French Baidey Pudding. 
Beat up the yolks of sLx eggs, and the whites of 
three, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten 
it to your palate, and put in a little orange-flower wa- 
ter, or rose-water, and a pound of melted butter. Then 
put in six handsful of French barley, having first boil- 
ed it tender in milk. Then butter a dish, pour it in, 
and send it to the oven. 

Patatoe Pudding. 
Boil two pounds of white potatoes till they are soft, 
peel and beat them in a mortar, and rnb them through 
a sieve till they are quite fine. Then mix in lialf" a 
pound of fresh butter, melted, beat up the yolks of 
eight eggs, and the whites of three. Add half a pound 
of white sugar finely pounded, half a pint of sack, and 
stir them well together. Grate in half a large nutmeg, 
and stir in half a pint of cream. Make a puft-paste, 
lay it all over the dish, and round the edges; pour 
in your pudding, and bake it till it is of a fine light 
brown. 

Lady Sunderland^s Pudding. 
Beat up tlie yolks of eight eg^» witli the A^'hites 
of three, add to them five spoonsfid of flour, with half 
a nutmeg, and put them into a pint of cream. Butter 

N ). 8. . 2 A 



I8G BAKED 

the iiisidesof some siriiill basins, fill them half full, and 
bake them aL liour. Wlien done, turn them out of the 
basins, and pour over tliem melted butter mixed with 
wine and sugar. 

Citron Padding. 

Take a spoonful of fine flour, two ounces of sugar, 
a little mitmeg, and halfa pint of cream. 3Iix them 
Avell together, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it 
into tea-cups, and divide among them two oimces of 
citron cut very thin. Bake them in a pretty quick 
oven, and turn them out upon a china dish. 

Chesnut Pudding. 

Boil a dozen and a half of chesnuts in a saucepan 
of water for a quarter of an hour. Then blanch and 
peel them, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a 
little orange-flower or rose-water and sack, till they 
come to a fine thin paste. Then beat up twelve eggs 
with half the whites, and mix them well. Grate half 
a nutmeg, a little salt, and mix them w ith three pints 
of cream, and half a pound of melted butter. Sweeten 
it to your palate, and mix all together. Put it over 
the fire, and keep stirring it till it is thick. Lay a 
pufl"- paste all over the dish, pour in the mixture, and 
send it to the oven. When you cannot get cream, 
take three pints of milk, beat up the yolks of four eggs, 
and stir into the milk. Set it over the fire, stirring it 
fUl the time till it is scalding hot, and then mix it in- 
s!;ead of cream. 

Q,uince Pudding. 

Scald your quinces till they are very tender, then 
pare them thin, and scrape ofi" all the soft part. Strew 
sugar on them till they are very sweet, and put to them 
a little ginger and a little cinnamon. To a pint of 
cream put three or four yolks of eggs, and stir your 
quinces in it till it is of a good thickness. Butter yoiu* 
dish, pour it in, and bake it. In the same manner 
you may treat apricots, or Avhite-pear plmns. 



PUDDINGS." 187 

Cowslip Pudding. 
Cut and pound small the flowers of a peck of cow- 
slips, with half a pound of Naples biscuits grated, 
and three pints of cream. Boil them a little, then 
lake them off the lire, and beat np sixteen eggs, witlr 
a little cream and rose-water. Sweeten to your palate. 
Mix it all well together, butter a dish, and pour it in. 
Bake it, and when it is enough, throw fine sugar over 
it, and serve it up. 

Cheese-curd Puddings. 

Turn a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain oif 
all the curd from the whey. Put the curd into a mor- 
tar, and beat it with half a pound of fresh butter, till 
the butter and the curd are well mixed. Beat the 
yolks of six eggs, and the w hites of three, and strain 
them to the curd. Then grate two Naples biscuits 
or a penny roll. Mix all these together, and sweeten 
to your palate. Butter your patty-pans, and fill them 
with the ingredients. Bake them in a moderately 
heated oven, and wiien they are done, turn them out 
into a dish. Cut citron and candied orange-peel into 
little narrow^ bits, about an inch long, and blanched 
almonds cut in long slips. Stick them here and there 
in the tops of the puddings, according to your fancy. 
Pour melted butter, with a little sack in it, into the 
dish, and throw fine sujrar all over them. 



•o* 



Apple Pudding. 

Pare twelve large apples, and take out the cores 
Put them into a saucepan, with four or five spoonsful 
of w ater, and boil them till they are soft and thick. 
Then beat them well, stir in a pound of loaf sugar, 
die juice of three lemons, and the peel of two cut thin 
and beat fine in a mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs 
Mix all well together, and bake it in a slack oven 
When done, sti-ew over it a little fine sugar, 

JVetcmarket Pudding. 
Slice and butter a French roll : put it into your 

16* 



188 BAKED 

mould : between c\ery layer put some dried cherries. 
Take half a pint of cream, and a pint of milk, eight 
eggs, six ounces of fine su<rar, a ghiss of brandy, some 
nutmeg, and lemon-peel. Let your dish or mould 
be nicely buttered ; and ^n hen done you may turn it 
out into the dish you serve it in. 

A Mullin pudding may be made in the same way. 

Jl Grateful Pudding. 

To a pound of flour add a pound of ^vhite bread 
grated. Take eight eggs, but only half the whites ; 
beat them up, and mix with them a pint of new milk. 
Then stir in the bread and flom-, a pound of raisins 
stoned, a pound of currants, half a pound of sugar, 
and a little beaten ginger. Mix all well togetlier, 
pom' it into your dish, and send it to the oven. If you 
can get cream instead of milk it w ill be a material 
improvement. 

Carrot Pudding 

Scrape a raAV carrot very clean, and grate it. 
Take half a pound of grated carrot and a pound of 
gi'ated bread ; beat np eight eggs, leave out half the 
whites, and mix the eggs with half a pint of cream. 
Then stir in the bread and carrot, half a pound of 
fresh butter melted, half a pint of sack, three spoons- 
ful of orange-flower water, and a nutmeg grated. 
Sweeten to yom- palate. Mix all well together, and 
if it be not thin enough, stir in a little new milk or 
cream. Let it be of a moderate thickness, lay a puff- 
paste all over the dish, and pour in the ingredients. 
It will take an hour baking. 

Yorkshire Pudding. 

Take four large spoonsful of flour, and beat it up 
well with four eggs and a little salt. Then put to them 
three pints of milk, and mix them well together. — 
Butter a dripping-pan, and set it under beef, mutton, 
or a loin of veal. When the meat is about half roast- 
ed, put in your pudding, and let the fat drip on it 



PIES. 189 

When it is brown at top, rut it into square pieces and 
turn it over; and when the under side is browned 
also, send it to tal»le on a dis!». 



CHAPTER XV. 

FIES. 

THERE are several things necessary to be parti - 
cukirly oljserved by the cook, in order that her hibourri 
and ingenuity under this head may be brought to their 
proper degree of perfection. One very material consi- 
deration must be, that the heat of the oven is duly 
proportioned to the nature of the article to be baked, 
[jight paste requires a moderate oven ; if it is too quick, 
the crust cannot rise, and will therefore be burned ; and 
it" too slow, it will be soddened, and w^ant that deli- 
cate light brown it ought to have. Raised pies must 
liave a quick oven, and be well closed up, or they will 
sink in their sides, and lose their proper shape. Tarts 
that are iced, shoidd be baked in a slow oven, or the 
icing will beco'.nc brown before the paste is properly 
baked. 

Having made these general ol)servations respecting 
*Jie baking of pies, we shall now direct the cook how 
.■) make the different kinds of paste, as they must be 
proportioned in the qualities according to the respec- 
tive articles for which they are to be used. 

Puff Paste must be made thus : Take a quarter of 
a peck of flour, and rub it into a pound of butter ver\ 
line. Make it up into a light paste, with cold water, 
just stilfenough to work it up. Then roll it out about 
as thick as a crown piece; put a layer of butter all 
over, then sprinkle on a little flour, double it up, and 
roll it out again. Double and roll it, with layers of 
butter three times, and it will be properly fit for use. 

Sfiort Crust. Put six ounces of butter to eight of 
floin-, and work them well together ; then mix it up 
witii as little water as possible, so as to have it a stif 
fish paste; then roll it out thin for use. 



190 MEAT TIES. 

A good Paste for large Pies. Take a peck of flour, 
and put to it tlirce eggs; tlioii put in half a pound ol 
suet, and a ])()und and a half of butter and suet, and 
as much of tlieliiiuor as will make it a i;<)od light crust. 
Work it up well, and roll it out. 

A standing Crust for great Pics. Take a peck 
of Hour and six pounds of butter boiled in a gallon of 
water : skim it oil" into the flour, and as little of the 
liquor as you can. Work it up well into a paste, and 
then pull it into pieces till it is cold. Then make it 
up into what form you please. 

Paste for Tarts. Put an ounce of loaf sugar beat 
and sifted to one pound of line flour. Make it into a 
stifl* paste, with a gill of boiling cream, and three 
ounces of butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 

Paste for Custards. To half a pound of flour put 
six ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and three 
spoonsful of cream. Mix them together, and let 
them stand a quarter of an hour; then Avork it up 
and down, and roll it out very thin. 



SECT. L 
MEAT PIES. 

Beef Steak Bie. 

Take some rump steaks, and beat them with a roll 
ing-pin, then season them with pepper and salt to your 
palate. Make a good crust, lay in your steaks, and 
then pour in as much w^ater .as w ill fill the dish. Put 
on the crust, send it to the oven and let it be well 
baked. 

Mutton Pie. 

Take ofl' the skin and outside fat of a loin of mut- 
ton, cut it into steaks, and season them well with 
pepper and salt. Set them into your dish, and pour 
in as much water as w ill cover them. Then put on 
your crust, and let it b(^ well baked. 



MEAT PIES. 191 

A Mutton Pie a-la-Fcrigord. 

Take a loin of mutton, cut it into chops, leaving 
the bone that marks the chop ; cover your dish with 
j)aste, and put the chops on it : season them with 
salt and mixed spices : ])ut triilHes between them. — 
Cover them with slices of bacon, and spread over the 
whole butter the thickness of half a crown. Complete 
your pies with a short crust, and when baked add a 
good cidlis mLxed with a glass of white wine. It will 
take two hours to bake in a moderate oven. 

A Veal Pie, made of the brisket part of the breast, 
may be done in the same manner, letting the veal first 
be stewed. 

Veal Pie. 

Cut a breast of veal into pieces, season them with 
pepper and salt, and lay them in your dish. Boil six 
or eight eggs hard, take tlie yolks only, and put them 
into different places in the pie, then pour in as much 
water as will nearly fill the dish, put on the lid and 
bake it well. A lamb pie must be done in the same 
manner. 

A rich Veal Pie. 

Cut a loin of veal into steaks, and season them 
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten nuice. Lay 
the meat in your dish, with sweetbreads seasoned, and 
the yolks of six hard eggs, a pint of oysters, and half 
a pint of good gravy. I^ay a good puff-paste round 
yom' dish, half an inch thick, and cover it with a lid 
of the same substance. Bake it an hour and a quar- 
ter in a quick oven. When it comes home, take oil 
the lid, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and stick them 
round the inside of the rim of the dish. Cover the 
meat with slices of lemon, and send the pie hot to 
table. 

Lamb or Veal Pies in hio'h Taste. 

Cut yoin* lamb or veal into small pieces, and sea- 
son with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and nutmegs beat 



192 MEAT PIES. 

fine. Make a good pufl-pasto cnisl, lay it in your dish, 
then put in your meat, and strew on it some stoned 
raisins and einTanIs clean Avashcd, and some su;iar. — 
Then lay on some l()iTemeat-balls made sweet, and, 
if in the summer, some artichoke bottoms boiled ; but if 
in winter, scalded •i;raj)es. Add to these some Spa- 
nish potatoes boiled, and cut inlo pieces, some candied 
citron, candied orange, lemon-peel, and three or four 
blades of luace. Put bntter on Ihe toj), close up vonr 
[»ie, and b;dve it. lla\e ready against it is done the 
iollowing composition : Mix the yolks of three eggs 
u ith a ])intof Avine, and slir them well together o\ cr 
the lire one way, till it is tliick. Then take it oH", j)iil 
in sugar enough to sweeten it, and squeeze in the 
juice of a lemon. Raise the hd of your pie, put this 
lictt into it, close it up again, and send it to table. 

Venison Pasty. 
Take a neck and breast of venison, bone them, 
and season them well with pepper and salt, put them 
into a deep pan, with the best j^art of a neck of mut 
ton sliced and laid over them ; pour in a glass of red 
w ine, put a coarse paste over it, and bake it two 
hours in an oven; then lay the venison in a dish, pour 
the gravy over it, and put one pound of butter over it ; 
make a good puff-paste, and lay it near half an inch 
thick round the edge of tlie dish; roll out the lid, 
which must be a little thicker than the paste on the 
edge of the dish, and lay it on ; then roll out another 
lid pretty thin, and cut in flowers, leaves, or whatever 
form you please, and lay it on the lid. If, you do not 
\\'ant it, it will keep in the pot that it was liaked in 
eight or ten days; but let the crust be kepton, that the 
air may not get to it. A breast and shoulder of Ncnl- 
son is the most proper for pasty. 

Olive Pie. 

Cut some thin slices from a fillet of veal, rub them 

over with the yolks of eggs, and strew on them a few 

criunbs of bread; shred a little lemon-peel very fine, 

and put it on them, with a little grated nutmeg, pep- 



MEAT PIES. 193 

per, and salt ; roll them up very tight, and lay them 
ill a pewter dish; pour over them half a pint of good 
gravy, pnt half a pound of butter ov^er it, make a light 
paste, and lay it round the dish. Roll the lid half ar 
inch thick, and lay it on. 

Calf's Head Pie. 

Boil the head till it is tender, and then carefully 
take off the flesh as whole as you can. Then take out 
the eyes, and slice the tongue. Make a good puff- 
paste crust, cover the dish, and lay in your meat. — 
Throw the tongue over it, and lay the eyes, cut in two, 
at each corner. Season it with a Uttle pepper and 
salt, pour in half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in, 
lay on it a thin top crust, and bake it an hour in a 
quick oven. In the meantime boil the bones of the 
head in two quarts of liquor; with two or three blades 
of mace, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, 
a large onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let it 
boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain it ofl", 
and add two spoonsful of catsup, three of red wine, a 
small piece of fjutter rolled in flour, and half an ounce 
of truflles and morels. Season it to yom* palate, and 
boil it. Roll half the brains with some sage, then beat 
them up, and add to them twelve leaves of sage chop- 
ped very fine. Then stir all together, and give it a 
boil. Take the other part of the brains, and beat 
them with some of the sage chopped fine, a little lemon- 
peel minced, and half a small nutmeg grated. Beat 
up with an egg, and fry it in little cakes of a fine light 
brown. Boil six eggs hard, of which take only the 
yolks, and when your pie comes home, take off the 
lid, lay the eggs and cakes over it, and pour in all the 
sauce. Send it hot to table with the lid. 

Calf's Feet Pic. 

Boil your calf's feet in three quarts of water, with 
three or four blade of mace, anu let them boil gently 
till it is reduced to about a pint and a half Then 
take out the feet, strain the liquor, and make a good 



194 MEAT PIES. ' . 

rriist. Cover your dish, tlien t;ikc the flcsli from the 
bones, and put lialf into it. Strew over 't lialf a 
pound of currants clean washed and picked, and lialf 
a pound of raisins stoned. Then Liy on the rest of 
your meats, skim tlie Hquor they were boiled in, 
sweeten it to your taste, and put in half a pint of white 
wine. Then pour all into the dish, put on your lid, 
and bake it an hour and a half. 

Sweetbread Pie. 
Lay a puff-paste half an inch thick at the bottom 
of a deep dish, and put a forcemeat romid the sides. 
Cut some sweetbreads in pieces, three or four, accord- 
ing to tlie size the pie is intended to be made ; lay 
them in first, then some artichoke bottoms, cut into 
four pieces each, then some cock's-combs, a few truf- 
fles and morels, some asparagus tops, and fresh mush- 
rooms, )^olks of eggs l)oiled hard, and forcemeat balls; 
season with pepper and salt. Almost fill the pie with 
water, cover it, and bake it two hours. When it 
comes from the oven, pour in some rich ^ eal gravy, 
thickened with a very little cream and flour 

Cheshire Fork Pie. 
Take the shin and loin of pork, and cut it into 
steaks. Season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, 
and make a good crust. Put into your dish a layer 
of pork, then a layer of pippins pared and cored, and 
sugar sufficient to sweeten it. Then place another 
layer of pork, and put in half a pint of white wine. 
Lay some butter on the top, close your pie, and send 
it to the oven ; if your pie is large, you must put in a 
pint of white wine. 

Devonshire Squab Pic. 
Cover your dish with a good crust, and pui at the 
bottom of it a lay jr of sliced pippins, and then a layer 
of mutton steaks, cut from the loin, well seasoned with 
pepper and salt. Then put another layer of pippins, 
peel some onions, slice tiiem thin, and put a layer of 
them over the pippins. Then put a layer of mutton 



PIES MADE OF POULTRY. 195 

and then pippins and onions. Pour in a pint of water, 
close lip the pie, and send it lo the oven. 



SECT. 11. 
PIES made o/ POULTRY, c^-c. 

Jl 2^1 Clin Goose Pie. 

Quarter yonr goose, season it well with pepper 
and salt, and lay it in a raised crust. Cut half a pound 
of butter into pieces, and put it in different places on 
the top ; then lay on the lid, and send it to an oven 
moderately heated. 

Another method of making a goose pie, with mate- 
rial improvements, is thus ; Take a goose and a fowl, 
bone them, and season them well ; put a forcemeat in- 
to the fowl, and then put the fowl into the goose. Lay 
these in a raised crust, and fill the corners with a lit 
tie forcemeat. Put half a pound of butter on the top 
cut into pieces, cover it, send it to the oven, and let it 
be well baked. This pie may be eaten either hot or 
cold, and makes a pretty side-dish for supper. 

Giblct Pie. 
Clean two pair of giblets well, and put all but the 
livers into a saucepan, with two quarts of water, twen- 
ty corns of whole pepper, three blades of mace, a bun- 
dle of sweet herbs, and a large onion Cover them 
close, and let them stew very gently till they are ten- 
der. Have a good crust ready, cover your dish, lay at 
the bottom a. fine rump steak seasoned with pepper 
and salt, put in your giblets, -Avith the livers, and strain 
the liquor they were stewed in ; then season it with 
salt, and pour it into your pie. Put on the lid, and 
bake it an hour and a half. 

Duck Pie. 
Scald two ducks and make them very clean ; then 
cut off the feet, the pinions, necks, and heads ; take 
out the gizzards, livers, and hearts, pick all clean, and 

17 



190 PIES MADE OF 

Bcald them. Pick out the fat of the inside, lay a good 
piilf-paste crust all over the dish, season the ducks, 
both inside and out, with pepper and salt, and lay them 
in the dish with the giblets at each end properly sea- 
soned. Put in as much water as v» ill nearly lill the 
pie, lay on the crust, and let it be well baked. 

Pigeon Pie. 
Pick and clean your pigeons very nicely, and then 
season them with pepper and salt ; or put some good 
forcemeat, or butter, pepper and salt, into each of their 
bellies. Then cover your dish with a puif-paste crust, 
lay in yom' pigeons, and put between them the necks, 
gizzards, livers, pinions, and hearts, with the yolk of a 
hard eg^, and a beef steak in the middle. Put as much 
water as will nearly lill the dish, lay on the top crust, 
and bake it well. 

Chicken Pic. 
Season your chickens with pepper, salt, and mace. 
Put a piece of butter into each of them, and lay them 
in the dish with their breasts upwards. Lay a thin 
slice of bacon over them, a\ hich will give them an 
agreeable flavour. Then put in a pint of strong gra- 
vy, and make a good pufl-paste. Put on the lid, and 
bake it in a moderately heated oven. 

Another Method of making a Chicken Pie 
Cover the bottom of the dish with a pnft'-paste, 
and upon that, round the side, lay a thin layer of force- 
meat. Cut two small chickens into pieces, season 
them high with pepper and salt ; put some of the pieces 
into the dish, then a sweetbread or two cut into pieces 
and well seasoned, a few truffles and morels, some 
artichoke bottoms cut each into four pieces, yolks of 
eggs boiled hard, chopped a little, and strewed over 
the top; put in a little water, and cover the pie. 
When it comes from the oven, pour in a rich gravy, 
thickened with a little flour and butter. To make the 
pie still richer, you may add fresh mushrooms, aspara 
gus tops, and cock's -combs. 



POULTRY, 4«C. 197 

Partridge Pie. 

Take two brace of partridges, and truss them in 
the same manner as you do a fowl for boiling. Put 
some shalots into a marble mortar, with some parsley 
cut small, the liv^ers of the partridges, and twice the 
quantity of bacon. Beat these well together, and sea- 
son them with pepper, salt, and a blade or two of 
mace. When these are all pounded to a paste, add 
to them some fresh mushrooms. Raise the crust for 
the pie, and cover the bottom of it with the seasoning; 
then lay in the partridges, but no stuffing in them ; put 
the remainder of the seasoning about the sides, and 
between the partridges. Mix together some pepper 
and salt, a little mace, some shalots shred fine, fresh 
mushrooms, and a little bacon beat fine in a mortar. 
Strew this over the partridges, and lay on some thin 
slices of bacon. Then put on the lid, and send it to 
the oven, and two hours will bake it. When it is 
done, remove the lid, take out the slices of bacon, 
and scum off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal gra- 
vy, squeeze in the juice of an orange, and send it hot 
.0 table. 

Hare Pie. 

Cut your hare into pieces, and season it well with 
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace ; then put it into a jug 
with half a pound of butter, close it up, set it in a cop- 
per of boiling water, and make a rich forcemeat with 
a quarter of a pomid of scraped bacon, two onions, a 
glass of red wine, the crumb of a two-penny loaf, a 
little winter savory, the liver cut small, and a little 
nutmeg. Season it high with pepper and salt, mix it 
well up with the yolks of three eggs, raise the pie, and 
lay the forcemeat in the bottom of the dish. Then 
put in the hare, with the gravy that came out of it ; 
\ay on the lid, and send it to the oven. An hour and 

half will bake it. 

Rabbit Pie. 

Cut a couple of young rabbits into quarters; then 
take a quarter of a }X>;md of bacon, and bruise it to 



196 MEAT PATTIES. 

pieces in a marble mortar, with the hvers, some 
pepper, salt, a little mace, some parsley cut small, 
some chives, and a few leaves of sweet basil. When 
these are all beaten line, make the paste, and cover 
the bottom of the pie with the seasoning. Then put 
in the ra jbits, pound some more bacon in a mortar, 
and with it some fresh butter. Cover the rabbits 
with this, and lay over it some thin slices of bacon ; 
put on the lid, and send it to the oven. It will tak'^ 
two hours baking. When it is done, remove the lid, 
take out the bacon, and skim off the fat. If there is 
not gravy enough in the pie, poin' in some rich mutton 
or veal gravy boiling hot. 

Another Method of making a llabbit Pie, and which 
is particularly done in the County of Salop. 

Cut two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds of 
fat pork cut small, and season both with pepper and 
salt to your taste. Then make a good pulT-paste crust, 
cover your dish with it, and lay in your rabbits. Mix 
the pork w-ith them ; but take the livers of the rabbits, 
parboil them, and beat them in a mortar, with the 
same quantity of fat bacon, and a little sweet herbs, 
and some oysters. Season w ith pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg, mix it up with the yolk of an e^s,, and make it 
into little balls. Scatter them about your pie, with 
some artichoke bottoms cut in dices, and some cock's- 
combs, if you have them. Grate a small nutmeg over 
the meat, then pour in half a pint of red wine, and 
half a pint of w ater. Close your pie, and bake it an 
hour and a half in a quick but not too fierce an oven. 

Fine Patties. 

Take any quantity of either turkey, house-lamb, or 
cliicken, and slice it with an equal quantity of the fat 
of lamb, loin of veal, or the inside of a sirlom of beef, 
and a little parsley, thyme, and lemon-peel shred. 
Put all into a marble mortar, pound it very fine, and 
season it w ith salt and w hite pepper. Make a fine 
puil-paste, roll it out mto thin square sheets, and put 



FRUIT PIES. 199 

the mea', in the middle. Cover the patties, close them 
all rounds cut the paste even, wash them over A\'ith 
tlie yolk of an egg, and bake them twenty minutes in 
a quick oven, lldxc ready a little white gravy, season- 
ed with pepper, salt, and a little shalot, thickened up 
with cream, or butter. When the patties come out of 
the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in some 
gravy ; but take care not to put in too much, lest it 
should run out at the sides, and spoil the appearance. 

To make any Sort of Timhah. 

Make your paste thus : take a pound of flour, mix 
it well with a little water, a quarter of a pound of 
fresh butter or hog"s lard, the yolks of two eggs, and a 
little salt; knead this paste well, that it may be firm; 
take a part and roll it to the sides of your stew-pan, 
put it in the bottom and round tlie sides, that it may 
take the form of the stew-pan; then put in any meat 
or fish you may think fit. You nnist butter your^tew- 
pan well, to make it tm*n out. Cover it with what 
paste remains, and send it to the oven ; or bury the 
stew-pan in hot embers, and cover it with a lid that 
will admit fire on tlie top. When turned out of the 
stew-pan, cut a hole in the top, and put in a rich gra- 
vy ; replace the bit of crust, and serve it up. 



SECT. III. 
FRUIT PIES, &c. 

Apple Pie. 

Make a good puiT-paste crust, and put it round the 
edge of your dish. Pare and quarter your apples, and 
take out the cores. Then lay a thick row of apples, 
and put in half the sugar you intend to use for yom* pie. 
Mince a little lemon-peel fine, spread it over the su- 
gar and apples, squeeze in a little juice of a lemon; 
then scatter a few cloves over it, and lay en the rest 
17* 



200 FRUIT PIES. 

of your apples and sugar, -with another small squeeze 
of the juice of a lemon. l>oil (he jjarings of the apjiles 
and cores in some water, w ith a hlade of mace, till 
the flavour is extracted; strain it, put in a little sugar, 
and l)oil it till it is reduced to a small quantity; then 
pour it into your pie, put on your crust, and send it to 
the oven. You may add to the apples a little quince 
or marmalade, whicli ^^ ill greatly enrich the flavour. 
When the pie comes from the oven, beat up the yolks 
of two eggs, with half a pint of cream, and a little nut- 
meg and sugar. Put it over a slow fire, and keep 
stirring it till it is near boiling; then take oft* the lid 
of the pie, and pour it in. Cut the crust into small 
three-corner pieces, and stick them about the pie. A 
pear pie must be done in the same manner, only the 
quince or marmalade must be omitted 

Apple Tart. 

Scald eight or ten large codlins, let them stand till 
they are cold, and then take off" the skins. Beat the 
pulp as fine as possible with a spoon ; then mix the 
yolks of six eggs, and the w bites of four. Beat all to- 
gether very fine, put in some grated nutmeg, and 
sw^eeten it to your taste. Melt some good fresh but- 
ter, and beat it till it is of the consistence of fine thick 
cream. Then make a putf-paste, and cover a tin pat- 
ty-pan with it; pour in the ingredients, but do not 
cover it with the paste. When you have baked it a 
quarter of an hour, slip it out of the patty-pan on a 
dish, and strew over it some sugar finely beaten and 
sifted. 

Cherry Pie. 

Having made a good crust, lay a little of it roimd 
the sides of your dish, and strew sngar at the bottom. 
Then lay in your fruit, and some sugar at the top. Put 
on your lid, and bake it in a slack oven. If you mix 
some currants with the cherries, it will be a consider- 
able addition. A plum or gooseberry pie may be made 
in the same manner. 



FRUIT PIES, t^C. 201 

Mince Pies. 

Shred chree pounds of meat very fine, and chop it 
as small as possible ; take two pounds of raisins stoned 
and chopped very fine, the same quantity of currants, 
nicely picked, washed, rubbed, and dried at the fire. 
Pare half a hundred fine pippins, core them, and chop 
them small, take half a pound of fine sugar, and pound 
it fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an 
ounce of cloves, and two large nutmegs, all beat fine, 
put them all into a large pan, and mix them well to- 
gether with half a pint of brandy, and half a pint of 
sack, put it down close in a stone pot, and it will keep 
good tliree or four months. When you make your 
pies, take a little dish, somewhat larger than a soup 
plate, lay a very thin crust all over it; lay a thin layer 
of meat, and then a layer of citron, cut very thin, 
then a layer of mincemeat, and a layer of orange-peel, 
cut thin ; over that a little meat ; squeeze half the juice 
ofa fine Seville orange or lemon, lay on your crust, and 
bake it nicely. These pies eat very fine cold. If you 
make them in little patties, mix your meats and sweet- 
meats accordingly. If you choose meat in your pies, 
parboil a neat's tongue, peel it, and chop the meat 
as fine as possible, and mix with the rest ; or two 
pounds of the inside of a sirloin of beef boiled. But 
when you use meat, the quantity of fruit must be 
doubled. 

Another Method of making Mince Pies. 

Take a neat's tongue, and boil it two hours, then 
skin it, and chop it exceeding small. Chop very small 
three pounds of beef suet, three pounds of good baking 
apples, four pounds of currants clean washed, picked, 
and w^ell dried before the fire, a pound of jar raisins 
stoned and chopped small, and a pound of powder 
sugar. Mix them all together, with half an ounce of 
mace, as much nutmeg, a quarter of an «unce of cloves, 
a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and a pint of 
French brandy. Make a rich pufl'-paste, and as you 
fill up the pie, put in a little candied citron and orange, 

No. 9. 2 C 



202 FPUIT PIES, i!f'C. 

cut in little pieces. Wluit mincemeat yon have to 
spare, put close down in a pot, and cover it up ; but 
never put any citron or orange to it till you use it. 

To make Mincemeat. 

Take a pound of beef, a pound of apples, two 
pounds of suet, two pounds of sugar, two pounds of 
currants, one pound of candied lemoi. or orange-peel, 
a quarter of a pound of citron, an ounce of fine spices 
mixed together ; half an ounce of salt, and six rinds 
of lemon shred fine. Let the whole of these ingredi- 
ents be well mixed, adding brandy and wine sufficient 
to your palate. 

Orange and Lemon Tarts. 

Take six large oranges or lemons, rub them well 
with salt, and put them into water, with a handful of 
salt in it, for two days. Then change them every day 
with fresh water, without salt, for a fortnight. Boil 
them till they are tender, and then cut them into half 
quarters corner-ways as thin as possible. Take six 
pippins pareo cored, and quartered, and put them in- 
to aomii oi'Avater. Let them boil till tliey break, then 
put .10 lienor to your oranges or lemons, half the pulp 
of lUe pippins well broken, and a poimd of sugar. — 
Boil these together a quarter of an hour, then put it 
into a pot; and squeeze into it either the juice of an 
orange or lemon, according to which of the tarts you 
intend to make. Two spoonsful will be sufficient to 
give a proper flavour to your tart. Put fine puff'-paste, 
and very thin, into your patty-pans, which must be • 
small and shallow. Before you put your tarts into the 
oven, take a feather or brush, and rub them over with 
melted butter, and then sift some double refined sugar 
over them, which ^vill form a pretty icing, and make 
them have a pleasing effect on the eye. 

« Tart cle moi. 

Put round your dish a ])uiT-paste, and then a layer 
of biscuit ; then a layer of butter and marrow, another 
of all sorts of sweetmeats, or as many as you have. 



PISH PIES. 203 

and thus proceed till your dish is full. Then boil a 
quart of creairi, thicken it Avith 3ggs, and put in a 
spoonful of orange-flower water. Sweeten it with 
sugar to your taste, and pour it over the whole. Half 
an hour will hake it. 

Artichoke Pie. 
Boil twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and 
chokes, and take tlie bottoms clear from the stalks. 
Make a good piift-paste crust, and lay a quarter of a 
pound of fresh butter all over the bottom of your pie. 
Then lay a row of artichokes, strew a little pepper, 
salt, and beaten mace over them, then another row, 
strew the rest of your spice over them, and put in a 
quarter of a pound more of butter cut in little bits. Take 
half an ounce of truflles and morels, and boil them in 
a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into 
the pie, cut the truflles and morels very small, and 
throw them all over the pie. Pour in a gill of white 
wine, cover your pie, and bake it. When the crust is 
done, the pie will be enough. 

Vermicelli Pie. 
Season four pigeons with a little pepper and salt; 
stuff them with a piece of butter, a few crumbs of 
bread, and a little parsley cut small ; butter a deep 
earthen dish well, and then cover the bottom of it with 
two ounces of vermicelli. Make a puff-paste, roll it 
pretty thick, and lay it on the dish, then lay in the 
pigeons, the breasts downwards, put a thick lid on the 
pie, and bake it in a moderate oven. When it is enough, 
take a dish proper for it to be sent to table in, and 
turn the pie on it. The vermicelli will be then on the 
top, and have a pleasing effect. 



SECT. IV, 

FISH PIES, 

Eel Pie. 
When you have skinned, gutted, and washed your 
eels very clean, cut them into p-oces about an inch and 



204 FISH PIES 

a half long. Season tlicm Avith pepper, salt, and a 
little dried sage rubl)ed small. Put them into your 
dish, with as mucii water as will just cover them. 
Make a good pull-paste, lay on the lid, and send your 
pic to the oven, which must be quick, but not so as to 
burn the crust. 

Tiirbot Fie. 

First parboil your turbot, and then season it witli 
a little pepper, salt, cloves, nutmeg, and sweet herbs 
cut fine. When you have made your paste, lay the 
turbot in your dish, with some yolks of eggs, and a 
whole onion, which must be taken out when the pie 
is baked. Lay a good deal of fresh butter at the top, 
put on the lid, and send it to the oven. 

Sole Pie. 

Cover your dish with a good emst; then boil two 
pounds of eels till they are tender, pick the flesh from 
the bones, and put the lx)nes into the liquor in Avhich 
the eels were boiled, with a blade of mace and a little 
salt. Boil them till there is only a quarter of a pint 
of liquor left, and then strain it. Cut the flesh ofl" the 
eels very fine, and mix with it a little lemon-peel chop- 
ped small, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs of 
bread grated, some parsley cut fine, an anchovy, and 
a quarter of a pound of butter. Lay this in the bot- 
tom of your dish. Cut the flesh from a pair of large 
soles, and take oft' the fins, lay it on the seasoning, then 
pour in the li.quor the eels were boiled in, close up your 
pie, and send it to the table. 

Flounder Fie, 

Gut your flounders, wash them clean, and then dry 
them well in a cloth. Give them a gentle boil, and 
then cut the flesh clean from the bones, lay a good 
crust over the dish, put a little fresh butter at the 
bottom, and on that the fish. Season with pepper 
and salt to your taste. Boil the bones in the water 
the fish Avas boiled in, with a small piece of horse- 
radish, a little parsley, a bit of lemon peel, and a crus' 



FISH PIES. 205 

of bread. Boil it till there is just enough liquor for 
the pie, then strain it, and povir it over the fish. Put 
on the lid, and send it to a moderate heated oven. 

Carp Pie. 

Scrape off the scales, and then gut and wash a 
large carp clean. Take an eel, and boil it till it is 
almost tender; pick oft' all the meat, and mince it fine, 
with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few 
sweet herbs, lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper and 
salt, and grated nutmeg; an anchovy, half a pint oi 
oysters parboiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of 
three hard eggs cut small. Roll it up with a quarter 
of a pound of butter, and fill the belly of the carp. 
Make a good crust, cover the dish, anS lay in your 
fish. Save the liquor you boiled your eel in, put into 
it the eel bones, and boil thein with a little mace, 
whole pepper, an onion, some sweet herbs, and an 
anchovy. Boil it till reduced to about half a pint, 
then strain it, and add to it about a quarter of a pint 
of white wine, and a piece of butter about the size of 
a hen's egs; mixed in a very little flour. Boil it up, 
and pour it into your j^^ie. Put on the lid, and bake 
it an hour in a quick oven. 

Tench Pie. 

Put a layer of butter at the bottom of yom* dish, 
and grate in some nutmeg, with pepper, salt, and 
mace. Then lay in your tench, cover them with some 
butter, and pour in some red wine with a little water. 
Then put on the lid, and when it comes from the oven, 
pom' in melted butter mixed with some good rich 
gravy. 

Trout Pic. 

Take a brace of trout, and lard them with eels; 
raise the crust, and put a layer of fresh butter at the 
bottom. Then make a forcemeat of trout, mushrooms, 
truftles, morels, chives, and fresh butter. Season 
them Avith salt, pepper, and spice ; mix these up with 
the yolks of two eggs; stuff the trout with it, lay them 



20b FISH PIES. 

in the dish, cover tlicm witli butter, put on the lidy 
and send it to the oven. Have some good fish gravy 
ready, and when the pie is done, raise the crust, and 
por.r it in 

Salmon Pie. 

When you have made a good crust, take a piece 
ol' fresh sahnoii, well cleansed, and season it with salt, 
mace, and nutmeg. Put a piece of butter at tlie bot- 
tom of your dish, and then lay in the salmon. Melt 
butter in proportion to the size of your pie, and then 
take a lobster, boil it, pick out all the flesh, chop it 
small, bruise the body, and mix it well with the but- 
ter. Pour it over your salmon, put on the lid, and let 
it be well baked. 

Herring Pie. 

Having scaled, gutted, and washed your herring 
clean, cut off their heads, fins, and tails. Make a 
good crust, cover your dish, and season your hcn'ings 
with beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Put a little but- 
ter in the bottom of your dish, and then the herrings. 
Over these put some apples and onions sliced very 
thin. Put some butter on the top, then pour in a lit- 
tle ivater, lay on the lid, send it to the oven, and let 
it be well baked. 

Lobster Pie. 

Boil two or three lobsters, take the meat out of 
the tails, and cut it into difl^erent pieces. Then take 
out all the spawn, and the meat of the claws ; beat it 
^vell in a mortar, and season it with pepper, salt, two 
spoonsful of vinegar, and a little anchovy liquor. IMelt 
half a pound of hesh butter, and stir all together, with 
the crumbs of a penny roll rubbed through a fine cul- 
lender, and the yolks of ten eggs. Put a fine pulf- 
paste over your dish, lay in the tails first, and the rest 
of the meat 3n them. Put on the hd, and bake it in 
a hIcw oven. 



207 

CHAPTER XVI. 

PAACAKES JJVD FRITTERS, 

THE principal things to be observed, of a general 
nature, in dressing these articles is, that yonr pan be 
thoroughly clean, that you fry them in nice sweet lard, 
or fresh butter, of a light brown colour, and that the 
grease is thoroughly drained from them before you 
carry them to table. 

Pancakes. 
Beat six or eight eggs well together, leaving out 
half the whites, and stir them into a quart of milk. Mix 
your flour first Avith a little of the milk, and then add 
the rest by degrees. Put in two spoonsful of beaten gin- 
ger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt, and stir all well 
together. Put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, 
and then pour in a ladleful of batter, which aa ill make 
a pancake, moving the pan round, that the batter may 
spread all over it. — Shake the pan, and when you think 
one side is enough, turn it, and when lx)tli sides are 
done, lay it in a dish before the fire ; and in like man- 
ner do the rest. Before you take them out of the pan, 
raise it a little, that they may drain, and be quite clear 
of grease. When you send them to table, strew^ a lit- 
tle sugar over them. 

Cream Pancakes. 
Mix the yolks of two eggs w ith half a pmt of cream, 
two oimces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, 
mace, and nutmeg. Rub your pan with lard, and fry 
them as thin as possible. Grate over them some fine 
sugar. 

Rice Pancakes. 

Take three spoonsful of flour and rice, and a quart 
of cream. Set it on a sIoav fire, and keep stirring it 
till it is as thick as pap. Pour into it half a pound of 
butter, and a nutmeg grated . Then pour it into an earth- 
en pan, and when it is cold, stir in three or four spoon?- 
IS 



208 FRITTERS. 

fill of flour, a little salt, and some sugar, and nine eggs 
^^x']l beaten. Mix all Avell together, and fry them 
nicely. When cream is not to be had, you rnus* use 
new milk, but in that case you must add a spoonfid 
more of the flour of rice. 

Pink-coloured Pancakes. 

Boil a large beet-root till it is tender, and then 
beat it fine in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of four 
eggs, two spoonsful of flour, and three spoonsful of cream. 
Sweeten it to your taste, grate in half a nutmeg, and 
add a glass of brandy. Mix all well together, and fry 
your pancakes in butter. Garnish them with gi-een 
sweetmeats, preserved apricots, or green sprigs of myr- 
tle. This makes a pretty corner-dish either for dinner 
or supper. 

Clary Pancakes. 

Take three eggs, three spoonsful of fine flour, and 
a litte salt. Beat them wqW together, and mix them 
with a pint of milk. Put lard into yom* pan, and when 
it is hot, pour in your batter as thin as possible, then 
lay in some clary leaves washed and dried, and pour a 
little more batter thin over them. Fry them of a nice 
brown, and Serve them up hot. 

Plain Fritters. 
Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and put it mto 
a pint of milk; mix it very smooth, and when cold, 
add the yolks of five eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, 
and some grated nutmeg. Fry them in hog's lard, and 
when done, pour melted butter, wine and sugar into 
the dish. 

Custard Fritters. 

Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with one spoonfid 
of flour, half a nutmeg, a little salt, and a glass of bran- 
dy, add a pint of cream, sweeten it, and bake it in 
a small dish. When cold, cut it into quarters, and dip 
them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter 
of a pint o^ milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a httle 



FRITTERS. 200 

ginger grated. Fry them in good lard or dripping, and 
when done st* iw over tiiem some grated sugar. 

Apple Fritters. 
Take some of the largest apples you can get, pare 
and core them, and then cut them into round slices. 
Take half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as 
nuicli flour as will make it rather thicker than a com- 
mon pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to yonr taste. 
liCt it stand three or foin* minutes to rise. Dip your 
slices of apple into the batter, fry them crisp, and serve 
them up w ith sugar grated over them, and wine sauce 
in a boat. 

Water Fritters. 
Take five or six vspoonsful of flour, a little salt, 
a quart of water, eight eggs Avell beat up, a glass of 
brandy, and mix them all well together. The longer 
they are made before dressed, the better. Just before 
you do them, melt half a pound of butter, and beat it 
well in. Fry them in hog's lard. 

White Fritters. 
Take two ounces of rice, wash it clean in water, 
and dry it before the fire. Then beat it very fine in a 
mortar, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Put it into a 
saucepan, just wet it with milk, and w hen it is tho- 
roughly moistened, add to it another pint of milk. Set 
the ^vhole over a stove, or very slow fire, and take 
care to keep it always moving. Put in a little ginger, 
and some candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over 
tlie fire, till it is come almost to the thickness of a fine 
paste. When it is quite cold, spread it out with a 
rolling-pin, and cut it into little pieces, taking care 
tliey do not stick to each otlier. Flour your hands, 
roll up your fritters handsomely, and fry them. When 
done, strew on then^ some sugar, and pour over them 
a little orange-flower water. 

Hasty Fritters. 
Put vsome butter into a stew-pan, and let i( 
heat. Take half a pint of good ale, and stir into it by 
No. 9. 2D 



210 FRITTERS. 

degrees a little flour. Put in a few currants, or chop 
ped apples, beat them np quick, and drop a large 
spoonful at a time all over tlie pan. Take care they 
do not stick together; turn them with an egg-slice, 
and when they are of a fine brown, lay them on a dish, 
strew some sugar over them, and serve them hot to 
table. 

Fritters Royal. 

Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, and when 
it begins to boil, pour in a pint of sack, or wine. Then 
take it off, let it stand five or six minutes, skim off tlie 
curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it up well with 
six eggs, and season it with nutmeg. Then beat it 
with a whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the 
usual thickness of batter ; put in some sugar, and fry 
them quick. 

Tansey Fritters. 

Pour a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a 
penny loaf, let it stand an hour, and then put in as 
much juice of tansey to it as will give it a flavour. 
Add to it a little of the juice of spinach, in order to 
make it green. Put to it a spoonful of ratafia water, 
or brandy, sweeten it to your taste, gi'ate the rind of 
half a lemon, beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them 
all together. Put them in a stew-pan, with a quarter 
of a pound of butter, stir it over a slow fire till it is 
quite thick ; take it ofl', and let it stand two or three 
hours; then drop a spoonful at a time into a pan of 
boiling lard ; and when done, grate sugar over them, 
and serve wine sauce in a boat. Garnish the dish 
with slices of orange. 

Rice Fritter's. 

Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is 
pretty thick; then mix it with a pint of cream, four 
eggs, some sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, six oimces 
of currants washed and picked, a little salt, and as much 
flour as will make it a thick batter. Fry them in lit- 
tle cakes in boiling lard, and when done, send them up 
with white sugar and butter. 



FRITTERS. 211 

Chicken Fritters. 

Put on a stew-pan with some new milk, and as 
ifjLich flour of rice as will be necessary to make it of a 
tolerable thickness. Beat three or four eggs, the yolks 
and whites together, and mix them well with the rice 
and milk. Add to them a pint of rich cream, set it 
over a stove, and stir it well. Put in some powdered 
ugar, some candied lemon- peel cut small, and some 
fi-esh-grated lemon-peel. Take all the white meat 
from a roasted chicken, pull it into small shreds, put 
it to the rest of the ingredients, and stir it all together. 
Then take it oft', and it will be a very rich paste. Roll 
it out, cut it into small fritters, and fry them in boiling 
lard. Strew the bottom of the dish with sugar finely 
powdered. Put in the fritters, and shake some sugar 
over them. 

Bilhoquet Fritters. 

Break five eggs into two handsful of fine flour, and 
put milk enough to make it work well together. Then 
put in some salt, and work it again. When it is 
well made, put in a tea-spoonful of powder of cinna- 
mon, the same quantity of lemon-peel grated, and 
half an ounce of candied citron cut very small. Put 
on a stew-pan, rub it over with butter, and put in the 
paste. Set it over a very slow fii*e, and let it be done 
gently, without sticking to the bottom or sides of the 
pan. When it is in a manner baked, take it out, and 
lay it on a dish. Set on a stew-pan with a large quan- 
tity of lard ; when it boils, cut the paste the size of a 
finger, and then cut it across at each end, which will 
rise and be hollow, and have a very good eftect. Put 
tliem into the boiling lard ; but great care must be 
taken in frying them, as they rise so much. When 
they are done, sift some sugar on a warm dish, lay on 
the fritters, and sift some more sugar over them. 

Orange Fritters. 
Take five or six sweet oranges, pare off" the outside 
as thin as possible, and cut them in quarters; take 
out the seeds, and boil the oranges with aUttle sugar 

18* 



212 FRITTERS. 

make a paste with some white wine, flour, a spoonful 
of fresh butter melted, ;nid a little salt; mix it neither 
too thick nor too thin; it should rope in pouring from 
the spoon. Dip the quarters of your orange into this 
paste, and fry them in hog's lard till they are of a light 
brown. Serve them glazed with line sugar and a sala- 
mander. 

Strawberry Fritters. 

Make a paste with some flour, a spoonful of bran- 
dy, a glass of white wine, and the whites of two eggs, 
beat it up stiff, with some lemon-peel shred fine ; mix 
it w^ell, not too thick or thin ; dip some large straw- 
berries into it, fry them, and glaze them with a 
salamander. 

Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same manner ; 
if not in season, preserved are better. 
Straivbermi Fritters. 

Make a batter with flour, a spoonful of sweet oil, 
another of white w inc, a little rasped lemon-peel, and 
the whites of two or three eggs ; make it pretty soft, 
just fit to drop with a spoon. Mix some large straw- 
berries with it, and drop them ^^ ith a spoon into ihe 
hot fritters. When of a good colour take them out, 
and drain them on a sieve. When done, strew^ some 
sugar over them, or glaze them, and send them to 
table. 

Raspberry Fritters. 

Grate the crumb of a French roll, or two Naples 
biscuits, and put to it a pint of boiling cream. When 
cold, add to it the yolks of four eggs well beat up. — 
Mix all well together with some raspberry juice; 
drop them into a pan of boiling lard in very small 
quantities. When done stick them with blanched al- 
monds sliced. 

Currant Fritters. 
Take half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and stir 
into it as much flour as will make it pretty thick with 
a few currants. Beat it up quick, have the lard boil- 
ing, and put a large spoonful at a time into the pan 



TARTS. 213 

German Fritters. 
Take some well tasted crisp apples, pare, quarter, 
and core tliem ; take the core quite out, and cut them 
into round pieces. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of 
a pint of French brandy, a table spoonful of fine sugar 
pounded, and a little cinnamon. Put the apples into 
this liquor, and set tliem over a gentle fire, stin'ing 
tliem often, but not to break them. Set on a stew- 
pan with. some lard. When it boils drain the apples, 
dip them in some fine flour, and put them into the pan. 
Strew some sugar ov^n- the dish, and set it on the fire ; 
lay in the fritters, strew a little sugar over them, and 
glaze them over with a red-hot salamander. 

Almond Fraze. 
Steep a pound of Jordan almonds blanched in a 
pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites. Then 
take out the almonds, and pound them fine in a mor- 
tar; mix them again in the cream and eggs, and put 
in some sugar and grated white bread. Stir them all 
together, put some fresii butter into the pan, and as 
soon as it is hot, pour in the batter, stirring it in the 
pan till it is of a good thickness. When enough, turn it 
into a dish, and throw some sugar over it. 



CHAPTER XVII 

TARTS A.YD PUFFS. 

WE have already given directions for making puff- 
paste for tarts, as also the making of Tarts as well 
as Pies, in the commencement of the fifteenth chap- 
ter. We have, therefore, here to treat only of those 
of a smaller and more delicate kind, concerning which 
the following general observations are necessary. 

If you use tin patties to bake it, butter the bottoms, 
and then put on a very thin bit of crust, otherwise you 
will not be able to take them out ; but if you bake 
tliem in glass or china, you need only use an upper 



214 TARTS. 

crust. Put some fnie sugar at tlie bottom, tlicn lay 
in your fruit, strew more sugar at top, cover them, 
and bake them in a slack oven. Currants and rasp 
berries make an exceeding good tart, and require 
little baking. 

Apples and pears intended for tarts must be ma- 
naged thus : cut them into quarters, and take out the 
cores, then cut the quarters across, and put them into 
a saucepan, with as much water as will barely cover 
them, and let them simmer on a slow fire till the fruit 
is tender. Put a good piece of lemon-peel into the 
water with the fruit, and then have your patties ready. 
Lay fine sugar at bottom, then your fruit, and a little 
sugar at top. Pour over eacli tart one tea-spoonful 
of lemon-juice, and three of the liquor they were boil- 
ed in; then put on your lid, and bake them in a slack 
oven. Apricot tarts may be made in the same man- 
ner, only that you must not put in any lemon-juice. 

Preserved fruit requires very little baking, and that 
which is very high preserved should not be baked at 
all. In this case, the crust should be first baked upon 
a tin the size of the intended tart ; cut it with a mark- 
ing iron, and when cold, take it oif, and lay it on the 
fruit. 



SECT. 1. 

DIFFERENT KINDS OF TARTS. 

Raspberry Tart. 

Roll out some thin puff'-paste, and lay it in a patty- 
pan; then put in some raspberries, and strew over 
tliem some very fine sugar. Put on the lid, and bake 
it. Then cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, 
the yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little 
sugar. Give it another heat in the oven, and it will 
be fit for use. 

Green Almond Tarts. 

Gather some almonds ofi* the tree before they 



TARTS. 215 

begin to shell, scrape off the down, aiid pat them into 
a pan with some cold spring water. Then put them 
into a skillet with more spring water, set it on a slow 
tire, and let it remain till it just simmers. Change the 
Avater twice, and let them remain in the last till they 
liegin to he tender. Then take them out, and dr)' 
them well in a cloth. J^Iake a syrup with double re 
lined sngar, put them into it, and let them simmer a 
short time. Do the same the next day, put them 
into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for if the 
least air comes to them, they will tm'n black. The 
yellower they are before they are taken out of the wa- 
ter, the greener they will be after they are done. Put 
them into your crust, cover, them with syrup, lay on 
the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven. 

Angelica Tarts. 

Pare and core some golden pippins, or nonpareils ; 
then the stalks of angelica, peel them, and cut them 
into small pieces; apples and angelica, of each an 
equal quantity. Boil the apples in just water enough 
to cover them, with lemon-peel, and fine sugar. Do 
them very gently till they become a thin syi'up, and 
then strain it off. Put it on the fire with the angelica 
in it, and let it boil ten minutes. Make a puff-paste, 
lay it at the bottom of the tin, and then a layer of 
apples, and a layer of angelica, till it is full. Pour in 
some syrup, put on the lid, and send it to a very mo- 
derate oven. 

Uhuharh Tarts. 

Take the stalks of rhubarb that grow in a garden, 
peel them, and cut them into small pieces. Then do 
it in every respect the same as a gooseberry tart. 

Spinach Tarts. 

Scald some spinach in boihng water, and then 
drain it quite dry. Chop it, and stew it in some but- 
ter and cream, with a very little salt, some sugar, some 
bits of citron, and very little orange-flower water 



216 TARTS. 

Put it into very fine piifl-paste, and let it be baked in 
a moderate oven. 

Petit Patties. 
Make a sliort crust, and roll it thick; take a piece 
of veal, and an etpial quantity of bacon and beef suet. 
Siired tlieni all very fnie, season them with pepper and 
salt, and a little sweet herbs. Put them into a stew- 
pan, and keep turning them about, with a few mush- 
rooms chopped small, for eight or ten minutes. Then 
fill your patties, and cover them with crust. Colour 
them with the yolk of an egg, and bake them. These 
make a very pretty garnish, and give a handsome ap- 
pearance to a large dish. 

Orange Taints. 

Grate a little of the outside rind of a Seville 
orange; squeeze the juice of it into a dish, throw the 
peels into water, and change it often for four days. — 
Then set a saucepan of water on the fire, and when it 
boils put in the oranges; but mind to change the water 
twice to take out the bitterness. When they are ten- 
der, wipe them well, and beat them in a mortar till 
they are fine. Then take their weight in double- 
refined sugar, boil it into a syrup, and scum it very 
clean. Put in the pulp, and boil altogether till it is 
clear. Let it stand till cold, then put it into the tarts, 
and squeeze in the juice. Bake them in a quick oven. 

Chocolate Tarts. 
Rasp a quarter of a pound of chocolate, and a stick 
of cinnamon, and add to them some fresh lemon-peel 
grated, a little salt, and some sugar. Then take two 
spoonsful of fine flour, and the yolks of six eggs well 
])eaten and mixed with some milk. Put all these in- 
to a stew-pan, and let them be a little time over the 
fire. Then take it ofl', put in a little lemon-peel cut 
small, and let it stand till it is cold. Beat up enough 
of the whites of eggs to cover it, and put it into puff- 
paste. AVhen it is baked, sift some sugar over it, and 
glaze it with a salamander. 



PUFFS. ?17 

SECT. II. 

PUFFS, &c. 

Sugar Puffs. 

Beat up the whites of ten eggs tiil they rise to a 
higli froth, and then put them into a marble mortar, 
with as much double-retined sugar as will make it 
thick. Then rub it well round the mortar, put in a 
few carraway seeds, and take a sheet of wafers, and 
lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you 
can. Pat them into a moderately heated oven for 
about a quarter of an hour, and they w ill have a verv 
white and delicate appearance. 

Lemon Puffs. 

Take a pound of double-refined sugar, bruise it, 
and sift it through a fine sieve. Put it into a bowl, 
with the juice of two lemons, and mix them together. 
Then beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, 
put it into your bowl, beat it half an hour, and then 
put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. 
Mix it well up, and throw sugar on your papers, drop 
on the puft's in small drops, and bake them in a mo 
derately heated oven. 

Almond Puffs. 

Take two ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, 
and beat them very fine with orange-flower water. 
Beat up the whites of three eggs to a very high froth, 
and then strew^ in a little sifted sugar. Mix your al- 
monds with the sugar and eggs, and then add more 
sugar till it is as thick as paste. Lay it in cakes, 
and bake them in a slack oven on paper. 

Chocolate Puffs. 

Beat and sift half a pound of douKe-refined sugar, 
scrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix 
them together. Beat up the white of an egg to a 
very high froth, and strew into it your sugar and cho- 
colate. Keep beating it till it is as thick as paste, then 

No. 10. 2 K 



ZlO CHEESEOAKEd. 

sugar your paper, drop them on about the size of a 
SLxpence, and bake them in a very slow oven. 

Cmd Puffs. 

Put a httle rennet into two quarts of milk, and 
when it is broken, put it into a coarse ck)th to drain. 
'I'hen rub tlie curd through a liair sieve, and put to it 
tour ounces of butter, ten ounces of bread, half a nut- 
meg, a lemon-peel grated, and a spoonful of wine. — 
Sweeten w ith sugar to your taste, rub your cups ^vith 
butter, and put them into the oven for about half an 
hour. 

Wafers. 
Take a spoonfid of orange-flower water, two 
spoonsful of flour, two of sugar, and the same of milk. 
Beat them well together for half an hour; then make 
your wafer tongs hot, and pour a little of yoin* batter in 
to cover your u'ons. Bake them on a stove fire, and as 
they are baking, roll them round a stick like a spigot. 
When they are cold, they will be very crisp, and {»ve 
proper to be ate either with jellies or tea. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
CHEESECAKES AMD CUSTARDS. 

SECT. I. 

CHEESECAKES. 

THE shorter time any cheesecakes are made, be- 
fore put into the oven, the better ; but more particu- 
larly almond oi iemou cheesecakes, as standing long 
will make them grow oily, and give them a disagree- 
able appearance. Particular attention must likewise 
be paid to the heat of the oven, wdiich must be mo- 
derate; for if it is too hot, they will be scorched, and 
consequently their beauty spoiled ; and, if too slack, 
they will look black and heavv. 



CHEESECAKES. 219 

Common Cheesecakes. 

Put a spoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, 
and set it near the fire. When the milk is blood-warm, 
and broken, drain the cmxl throngh a coarse sieve. 
Now and then break the cnrd gently with your fingers, 
and rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
same quantity of sugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples 
biscuits grated ; the yolks of four eggs, and the white 
of one, with an ounce of almonds well beaten with 
two spoonsful of rose-water, and the same of sack. 
Then clean and wash six ounces of currants, and put 
them into the curd. Mix all well together, fill your 
patty-pans, and send them to a moderate oven. 

Fine Cheesecakes. 

Put a pint of cream into a saucepan over the fire, 
and when it is warm, add to it five quarts of milk, im- 
mediately taken from the cow. Then put to it some 
rennet, give it a stir about, and when it is turned, 
put the curd into a linen cloth or bag. I ,et it drain 
well away from the whey, but do not squ 3eze it too 
much. Put it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as 
butter. Add to it half a pound of sweet-almonds 
blanched, and half a pound of macaroons, both beat 
exceeding fine, but if you have no macaroons, Naples 
biscuits will do. Then add the yolks of nine eggs 
well beaten up, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or orange- 
flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix all 
well together, and melt a pound and a quarter of but- 
ter, and stir it well in. Then make a puff-paste in 
this manner : take a pound of fine flour, wet it with 
cold water, roll it out, put into it by degrees a pound 
of fresh butter, and shake a little flour on each coat as 
you roll it. Then proceed to finish your business as 
before directed, and send them to the oven. For 
variety, wlien you make them of macaroons, put in as 
much tincture of saftVon as will give them a high co- 
lour, but no currants. These may be called saflron 

cheesecakes. 

19 



220 CHEESECAKES. 

Bread Cheesecakes. 

Slice a penny loaf as tliin as possible, then pour c»n 
it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two hoin-s. 
Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a 
nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and mix 
them into the cream and bread, with half a pound ol 
currants well washed and dried, and a spoonful ol 
white wine or brandy. Bake them in patty-joans, or 
raised crust. 

Rice Cheesecakes. 

Boil four ounces of rice till it is tender, and then 
put it into a sieve to drain. Mix with it four eggs 
well beaten up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of 
cream, six ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a 
glass of brandy or ratifia w^ater. Beat them all well to- 
gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake 
them in a moderate oven. 

Almond Cheesecakes. 

Take four ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, 
and put them into cold w^ater; then beat them in a 
marble mortar, or wooden bowl, with some rose-wa- 
ter. Put to it four ounces of sugar, and the yolks of 
four eggs beat fine. Work it in the mortar, or bowl, 
till it becomes wiiite and frothy, and then make a rich 
puff-paste as follows : take half a pound of flour, a 
quarter of a pound of butter, rub a little of the butter 
into the flour, mix it stiif with a little cold water, and 
then roll your paste straight out. Strew^ on a little 
(lour, and lay over it, in thin bits, one third of yom* 
butter; throw" a little more flour over the bottom, and 
do the like three dift'erent times. Then put the paste 
into your tins, fill them, grate sugar over them, and 
bake them in a gentle oven. 

Or you may make Almond Cheesecakes thus : 

Take four ounces of almonds, blanch them, and 
beat tiiem with a little orange-flower w'ater; add the 
volks of eight eggs, the rind of a large lemon grated, 



CUSTARDS. 221 

half a pound of melted bnttcr, and sugar to your taste ; 
lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom of your tins, and 
little slips across. Add about half a dozen bitter 
almonds. 

Lemon Cheesecakes. 

Boil the peelings of two large lemons till they are 
tender ; then gound them well in a mortar, with a quar- 
ter of a pound of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half 
a pound of fresh butter, and a little curd beat fine. 
Pound and mix all together, lay a puff-paste in your 
patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them. 

Orange cheesecakes must be done the same way; 
but you must boil the peel in two or tliree waters to 
depri\ie it of its bitter taste. 

Citron Cheesecakes. 

Beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a 
quart of boiled cream. When it is cold, set it on the 
fire, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch some almonds, 
beat them with orange-flower water, and put them 
into cream with a few Naples biscuits, and green 
citron shred fine. Sweeten it to your taste, and bake 
them in cups. 



SECT. II. 

CUSTARDS. 

In making of custards, the greatest care must be 
taken that your pan be well tinned ; and always re- 
member to put a spoonful of water into it, to prevent 
your ingredients sticking to the bottom. 

Plain Custards. 
Put a quart of good cream over a slow fire, with a 
little cinnamon, and four onnces of sugar. When it has 
boiled, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, 
and put to them a spoonful of orange-flower water, to 
prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by de- 
grees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very slow 



222 CUSTARDS. 

(ire, stir it carefully one way till it is almost boilings 
and then pour it into cups. 

Or you maymake them h: this manner : 
Take a quart of new milk, sweeten to yom* taste, 
beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china 
basins. Or put them into a china dish, and pour 
boiling water round them till the water is better than 
half way up their sides ; but take care the water does 
not boil too fast, lest it sliould get into your cups, and 
spoil your custards. 

Baked Custards. 
Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinna- 
mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks and two 
whites of eggs, a little rose and orange-flower water 
and sack, and nutmeg and sugar to your palate. Mix 
them well together, and bake it in cups. 

Rice Custards. 
Put a blade of mace and a quartered nutmeg into 
a quart of cream; boil it, then strain it, and add to it 
some whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. Sweeten 
it to your palate, stir it over the fire till it thickens, 
and serve it up in cups, or a dish. It may be used 
either hot or cold. 

Almond Custards. 
Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and 
beat them very fine, and then put them into a pint of 
cream, with two spoonsful of rose-water. Sweeten 
it to your palate, beat up the yolks of four eggs very 
fine, and put it in. Stir all together one way over the 
fire till it is thick, and then pour it into cups. 

Lemon Custards. 
Take half a pound of double-refined sugar, the 
juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very thin, 
the inner rind of one boiled tender, and rubbed through 
a sieve, and a pint of white wine. Let them boil for 
Kome time, then take out th 3 peel, and a little of th 



CAKES. 223 

l/quor, and set it to cool. Pour the rest into tlie dish 
you intend for it, beat four yolks and two whites of 
eggs, and mix them with your cool liquor. Strain 
them into your dish, stir tlicm well together, and set 
them on a slow tire in boiling water. When it is 
enough, grate the rind of a lemon on tiie top, and brown 
it over with a hot salamander. This may be eaten 
either hot or cold. 

Orange Custards. 

Boil very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, 
and then beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Put to 
it a spoonful of tlie best brandy, the juice of a Seville 
orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four 
eggs. Beat them all well together for ten minutes, and 
then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep 
beating them till tliey are cold, then put them in cus- 
tard cups and set them in a dish of hot water. Let 
them stand till they are set, then take them out, and 
stick preserved orange on the top. These, like tiie for- 
mer, may be served up either hot or cold. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

CAKES, BISCUITS, t^-c. 

ONE very material matter to be attended to in 
making these articles is, that all your ingredients are 
ready at the time you are going to make them, and 
that you do not leave them till your business is done , 
but be particularly observant with respect to the 
eggs when beaten up, which, if left at any time, must 
be again beaten, and by that means your cake will not 
be so light as it otherwise would and ought to be. 1^ 
you use butter to your cakes, be careful in beating ii 
to a fine cream before you mix the sugar with it. 
Cakes made with rice, seeds, or plums, are best baked 
with wooden girths, as therebv the heat will penetrate 



'224 CAKES. 

into tlie middle, which will not be the case if baked in 
pots or tins. The heat of tiie oven must be proportion- 
ed to the size of the cake. 

A Good Common Cuke. 
1\\KE six ounces of ground rice, and the same quan 
tity of Hour, tlie yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a 
pound of lump sugar, pounded and sifted, and half an 
ounce of carraway seeds. Mix these well together, and 
bake it an hour in a quick oven. 

Jl Rich Seed Cake. 
Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried, a 
pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, 
eight eggs, two ounces of carraw ay seeds, one nutmeg 
grated, and its weight in cinnamon. First beat your 
butter to a cream, then put in your sugar; beat the 
wiiites of your eggs by themselves, and mLx them with 
your butter and sugar, and then beat up the yolks and 
mix with the wiiites. Beat in your fiour, spices, and 
seed, a little before you send it away. Bake it two 
hours in a quick oven. 

A Pound Cake Plain. 

Beat a pound of butter in an earthen pan, till it is 
like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine whole eggs 
till quite light. Put in a glass of brandy, a little lemon- 
peel shred fine ; then work in a pound and a quarter 
of flour. Put it into your hoop or pan, and bake it for 
one hour. 

A pound plum cake is made the same, wdth putting 
one pound and a half of clean washed currants, and 
half a pound of candied emon or orange-peel. 

Cream Cakes. 
Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir it 
gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall, and to 
every white of an egg grate the rinds of two lemons. 
Shake in gently a spoonful ofdouble-refined sugar sift- 
ed fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a 
spoon drop the fi'oth in little lumps on it, at a smaU 



CAKES. 225 

distance from each other. Sift a good quariity of 
sugar over them, set them in the oven after the bread 
is out, and close up the moutli of it, which will occasion 
the froth to rise. As soon as they are coloured they 
will be sufficiently baked ; then take them out, and 
put two bottoms together ; lay them on a sieve, and 
set them to dry in a cool even. 

IFedding or Chi istening Cake. 
Take three pounds and three quarters of butter, 
four pounds and a half of flour, three pounds of sugar, 
six pounds of currants, one pound and a half of can- 
died lemon-peel, half a pound of almqjids, half a pound 
of citron, thirty eggs, and a pint of brandy and milk. 
Beat your butter in a pan till it is like thick cream, 
but be sure not to make it too hot; then add your 
eggs by degrees, till they are quite light; then beat in 
half your flour, then put your milk and brandy in; 
grate the rinds of six lemons, and put in the rest of 
your flour, currants, candied lemon-peel, almonds, and 
half an ounce of spices, beat and sifted through a fine 
sieve, such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, and 
allspice; only put half an ounce of the whole in. If 
you bake the whole in one cake it w ill take three 
hom's, but must not be baked too quick. 

Rice Cukes. 

Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour 
wdth a wiiisk; then put to them ten ounces of loaf- 
sugar sifted fine, and mix them w ell together. Then 
put in half a pound of gi'ound rice, a little orange-wator 
or brandy, and the rinds of two lemons gi'ated. Then 
put in the whites of seven eggs ^vell beaten, and stir the 
wiiole together for a quarter of an hour. Put them in 
a hoop, and set them in a quick oven for half an hour, 
and thoy will be properly done. 

Gingerbread Cakes. 

Take three pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, the 
same quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces 
No. la 2 y 



226 CAKES. 

of beaten ginger, and a large nutmeg grated. Tlicn 
take a pound of treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, 
and make them warm togethe..-. Work up the bread 
stiff, roll it out, and make it up into thin cakes. Cut 
them out with a tea-cup or small glass, or roll them 
round like nuts, and bake it in a slack oven on tin 
Dlates. 

Bath Cakes or Buns. 

Take half a pound of butter, and one pound of 
flour; rub the butter well into the flour; add five eggs, 
and a tea-cup full of yeast. Set the whole well mixed 
up before the fire to rise ; when suificiently rose, add a 
quarter of a pou^d of fine powder sugar, an ounce of 
carraways well mixed in, then roll tliem out in little 
cakes, and bake them on tins. They may either be eat 
.for breakfast or tea. 

Shreivsbti }^y Cakes. 
Beat half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and 
put in the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of 
beaten and sifted loaf-sugar, and half an ounce ofcar- 
raway seeds. Mix them Avith a paste, roll them thin, 
and cut them round with a small glass, or little tins ; 
prick them, lay them on sheets of tin ; and bake them 
m a slow oven. 

Portugal Cakes. 

Mix into a pound of fine flour a pound of loaf-sugar 
beat and sifted, and rub it into a pound of pure sweet 
butter till it is thick like grated white bread; then put 
to it two spoonsful of rose-water, two of sack, and ten 
eggs, and then work them well with a whisk, and put 
in eight ounces of currants. Butter the tin pans, fill 
them but half full, and bake them. If made without 
currants, they will keep half a year. 

Saffron Cakes. 

Take a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half of 
butter, ihree ounces of carraway seeds, six eggs well 
beaten, i quarter of an c jnce of cloves and mace fine 



CAKES. 227 

beaten together, a little cinnamon ponncled, a pound 
of sugar, a little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a 
half of yeast, and a qnart of milk. Mix all together 
liglitly in the following manner : first boil yonr milk 
and butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with 
your flour, and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into 
the rest, and strain it. Mix it with the flour, put in 
your seeds and spice, rose-water, tincture of saflVon, 
sugar, and eggs Beat it all well up, and bake it in a 
hoop or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick oven, 
and an hour and a half will do it. 

Prussian Cakes. 

Take half a pound of dried flour, a pound of bea- 
ten and sifted sugar, the yolks and wJiites of seven 
eggs beaten separately, the juice of a lemon, the 
peels of two finely grated, and half a pound of almonds 
beat fine with rose-water. When yon have beat the 
whites of the eggs to a froth, p;it in the yolks, and 
every thing else except the flour, and beat them well 
together. Shake in the flour ju.st before you set it in 
the oven, and be particularly careful to beat the whites 
and yolks separately, otherwise your cake will be hea- 
vy, and very unpleasant. 

Queen Cakes. 

Take a pomid of sugar, and beat and sift it; a 
pound of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
and half a pound of currants waslied and picked ; grate 
a nutmeg, and the same quantity of mace and cinna- 
mon. Work your butter to a cream, and put in your 
sugar ; beat the whites of your eggs near half an hour, 
and mix them with yom- sugar and butter. Then beat 
your yolks near half an hour, and put them to your 
butter. Beat the whole well together, and" when it is 
ready for the oven put in your floiu', spices, and cur- 
rants. Sift a little sugar over them, and bake them 
in tins. 

Almond Cakes. 

Take two ources of butter, and one pound of sweet 



228 CAKES. 

almonds, blanched and beat, with a little rose orcd*ang€ 
flower water, and the white of one egg; half a pound 
of sifted loaf sugar, eight yollvs and three whites of 
eggs, tlie juice of half a lemon and the rind gi'ated. 
Mix the whole Avell together, and either bake it in 
one large pan or several small ones. 

Little Plum Cakes. 

Take half a pound of sugar finely j)owdered, two 
pounds of flour well dried, four yolks and two whites 
of eggs, half a poimd of butter washed with rose- 
water, six spoonsful of cream warmed, and a pound 
and a half of currants un^\ ashed, but picked and nib- 
bed very clean in a cloth. Mix all well together, then 
make them up into cakes, bake them in a hot ov en, 
and let them stand half an hour till they are coloured 
on both sides. Then take down the oven lid, and let 
them stand to soak. You must rub the butter well 
into the flour, then the eggs and cream, and then the 
currants. 

Ratifia Cakes. 

First blanch, and then beat half a pound of sweet 
almonds, and the same quantity of bitter almonds in 
fine orange, rose, or ratifia water, to keep the almonds 
from oiling. Take a pound of fine sugar pounded and 
sifted, and mix it with your almonds. Have ready the 
whites of four eggs well beaten, and mix them lightly 
with the almonds and sugar. Put it into a preserving- 
pan, and set it over a moderate fire. Keep stirring 
it one way until it is pretty hot, and, when a little cool, 
form it in small rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip 
your hands in flour, and shake them on them ; give 
each a light tap with your finger, and ])ut them on su- 
gar papers. Sift a little sugar on them before you put 
them into the oven, which must be quite slack. 

Apricot Cakes. 
Take a pound of ripe apricots, scald and peel them, 
and, as soon as you find the skin will come off", take 
out the stones. Beat the fruit in a mortar to a pulp • 



CAKES. 229 

then boil half a pound of double-refined sugar, with a 
spoonftd of Avater, skim it well, and put to it the pulp 
of yonr apricots. Let it simmer a quarter of an hour 
over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time. 
Then pour it into shallow flat glasses, turn them out 
upon glass plates, put them into a stove, and turn them 
once a day till they are dry. 

Orange Cakes. 

duARTER what quantity you j^lease of Seville 
oranges that have very good rinds, and boil them in 
t\vo or three Avaters till t!iey are tender, and the bitter- 
ness gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a 
clean napkin to dry. Take all the skins and seeds 
out of the pulp with a knife, shred the peels fine, put 
them to the pulp, weigh them, and put rather more 
than their weight of fine sugar into a pan, with just as 
much water as will dissolve it. Boil it till it becomes 
a perfect sugar, and then by degrees, put in your 
orange-peels and pulp. Stir them well before you set 
them on the fire ; boil it very gently till it looks clear 
and thick, and then put them into flat-bottomed glas- 
ses. Set them in a stove, and keep them in a constant 
and moderate heat ; and when they are candied on the 
top, turn them out upon glasses. 

Lemon Cakes. 

Take the whites of ten eggs, put to them three 
spoonsful of rose or orange-flower water, and beat 
them an hour with a whisk. Then put in a pound of 
beaten and sifted sugar, and grate into it the rind of a 
lemon. When it is well mixed put in the juice of hall 
a lemon, and the yolks of ten eggs beat smooth.— 
Just before you put it into the oven, stir in three quar 
ters of a pound of flour, butter your pan, put it into a 
moderate oven, and an hour will bake it. 

Currant Cakes. 

Dry well before a fire a pound and a half of fine 
flour, take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf 



230 BISCUITS. 

sugar well beaten and sifted, four yolks of eggs, foui 
spoonsful of rose-water, the same of sack, a little mace, 
and a nutmeg grated. Beat the eggs well, and put 
them to the rose-water and sack. Then put to it the 
sugar and butter. Work them all together, and then 
strew in the currants and flour, having taken care to 
have them ready warmed for mixing. You may make 
six or eight cakes of them ; but mind to bake them of 
a fine brown, and pretty crisp 

Whigs. 

Put half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of 
a pound of fine flour, and mix in it two or three spoons- 
ful of light barm. Cover it up, and set it before the 
fire an hour, in order to make it rise. Work into the 
paste four ounces of sugar, and the same quantity of 
butter. Make it into cakes or whigs, with as little 
flour as possible, and a few seeds, and bake them in a 
quick oven. 

Common Biscuits. 

Beat eight eggs well up together, and mix with 
them a pound of sifted sugar with the rind of a lemon 
grated. Whisk it about till it looks light, and tlien 
put in a pound of flour, with a little rose-water. Su- 
gar them over, and bake them on tins, or on papers. 

Sponge Biscuits. 

Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half an hour; then 
put in a pound and a half of sugar beat and sifted, 
and whisk it till you see it rise in bubbles. Then beat 
the whites to a strong froth, and whisk them well 
u ith your sugar and yolks. Work in fourteen ounces 
of flour, with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake 
them in tin moulds buttered, and in a quick oven. — 
They will take about half an hour baking; but before 
yon put them into the oven, remember to sift pounded 
suflfar over them. 

Spanish Biscuits. 

Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them half an 
hour, and then put to them eight spoonsful of sifted 



BISCUITS, c^-C. 231 

sugar. Then beat the whites to a strong froth, and 
work them well ^vith the yolks and sugar. Put in 
four spoonsful of flour, and a little lemon-peel cut fine 
Mix all well together, and bake them on paper. 

Drop Biscuits. 

Beat up the whites of six eggs, and the yolks of 
ten, with a spoonful of rose-water, and thenpui in ten 
ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar. Whisk them 
well for half an hour, and then add an ounce of car- 
raway-seeds crushed a little, and six ounces of fine 
flour. Mix the whole well together, drop them on 
papers, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. 

Lemon Biscuits. 

Take the yolks often eggs, and the Avhites of five, 
and beat them well together, with fom* spoonsful of 
orange-flower water, till they froth up. Then put in 
a pound of loaf sugar sifted, beat it one way for half 
an hour or more, put in half a pound of flour, with the 
raspings of two lemons, and the pulp of a small one. 
Butter your tin, and bake it in a quick oven ; but do 
not stop up the mouth at first, for fear it should scorch. 
Dust it with sugar before you put it into the oven. 

Macaioons. 

Blanch and beat fine a pound of sweet almonds, 
and put to them a pouiul of sugar and a little rose- 
water, to keep them from oiling. Then beat the 
whites of seven eggs to a froth, put them in, and work 
the whole well together. Drop them on tN^afer-paper, 
grate sugar over them, and put them into the oven. 

Green Caps. 

Having gathered as many codlins as you want 

just before they are ripe, green them in the same man 

ner as for preserving. Then rub them over with a 

httle oiled butter, grate double-refined sugar over them, 

and set them in the oven till they look bright, and 

suarkle like frost. Then take them out, and put them 
^0 ' 



232 BISCUITS, i^c. 

into a cliina dish. Make a very fine custard, and pour 
it round them. Stick single flowers in every apple, 
and serve them up. 

Black Caj)s. 

Take out the cores, and cut into halves twelve 
large apples. Place- them on a tin patty-pan as close 
as they can lie, \vith the flat side downwards. Squeeze 
a lemon into two spoonsful of orange-flower water, and 
pour it over them. Shred some lemon-peel fine, and 
throw over them, and grate fine sugar over all. Set 
them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do them. 
When you send them to table, strew fine sugar all over 
the dish. 

Snoiu Balls. 

Pare and take out the cores of five large baking 
apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince marma- 
lade. Then make some good hot paste, roll your ap- 
ples in it, and make your crust of an equal thickness. 
Put them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a mo- 
derate oven, and when you take them out, make icing 
for them, directions for which you will find at the close 
of the second section in the next chapter. Let your 
icing be about a quarter of an inch thick, and set them 
at a good distance from the fire till they are hardened ; 
but take care you do not let them brown. Put one 
in the middle of a dish, and the others round it. 



233 

CHAPTER XX. 
THE ART OF CO^FECTIOJVARY. 

SECT. I. 

THE METHOD OF PREPARING SUGARS AND 
COLOURS. 

THE first process in the art of confectionary is tliat 
of clarifying sugars, which requires great care and 
attention, and must be done according to the following 
direction : 

Break the white of an egg into your preserving-pan, 
put to it four quarts of w^ater, and beat it up to a froth 
with a whisk. Then put in twelve pounds of sugar, 
mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it 
boils put in a little cold water, and in this manner 
proceed as many times as may be necessary, till the 
scum appears thick on the top. Then remove it from 
the fire, and when it is settled take ofi" the scum, and 
pass it through a straining-bag. If the sugar should 
not appear very fine, give it another boil before you 
strain it. — This is tlie first operation, having done 
which you may proceed to clarify your sugar to eitho'* 
of the following degrees: 

1. Smooth or Candy Sugar. — After having gone 
through the first process, as before directed, put what 
quantity you may have occasion for over the fire, and 
let it boil till it is smooth. This you may know by 
dipping your skimmer into the sugar, and then touch- 
ing it between your fore-finger and thumb, and im- 
mediately on opening them, you wall observe a small 
thread drawn between, whicli will immediately break, 
and remain on a drop on your thumb, which will be a 
sign of its being in some degree of smoothness. Then 
give it another boiling, and it will draw into a larger 
string, when it will have acq ired the first degree, 
from whence we procci^d to, 

No. 10. 2 G 



234 CONFECTIONARY, 

2. Bloom Suga7\ — In tliis degree of refining sugar, 
you must boil it longer than in the former process, and 
then dip your skimmer in, shaking oft' what sugar you 
can into the j)an then blow with your mouth strongly 
through the holes, and if certain bladders, or bubbles, 
go through, it will be a proof that it has acquired the 
second degre*^ 

3. Featheied Sui^ar. — To prove this degree, dip 
the skimmer into the sugar when it lias boiled longer 
than in the former degrees. When you have so done, 
first shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt 
behind you, and if it is enough, the sugar will fly off" 
like feathers. 

4. Crackled Sugai\ — Boil your sugar longer than 
in the preceding degree ; then dip a stick into it, and 
immediately put it into a pan of cold water, w hich you 
must have by you for tliat purpose. Draw ofl' the 
sugar that hangs to the stick into the water, and if it 
becomes hard, and snaps, it has acquired the proper 
degree ; but if otherwise, you must boil it again till it 
answers that trial. Be particularly careful that the 
w^ater you use for this purpose is perfectly cold, other- 
wise you will be greatly deceived. 

5. Carmel Sugai^s. — To obtain the last degree, 
your sugar must boil longer than in either of the former 
operations. You must prove it by dipping a stick, first 
into the sugar, and then into cold water ; but this you 
must observe, that when it comes to the carmel height, 
it will, the moment it touches the water, snap like 
glass, which is the highest and last degree of refining 
sugar. When you boil this, take care that your fire is 
not too fierce, lest it should, by flaming up the sides of 
the pan, cause the sugar to burn, discolour it, and 
thereby destroy all your labour. 

Having thus described the various degrees of refin- 
ing sugar, we shall now point out the method of pre- 
paring those colours with which they may be tinged, 
according to the fimcy, and the different purposes for 
which they are to be used. 



CONFECTIONARY. 235 

Red Colour, 
To make this colour, boil an ounce of cochineal m 
half a pint of water, for abov^e five minutes; then add 
half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of 
pounded alum, and boil the whole on a slow fire about 
as long again. In order to know if it is done, dip a 
pen into it, write on white paper, and if it shows the 
colour clear, it is sufficient. Then take it off the fire, 
add two ounces of sugar, and let it settle. Pour it 
clear off, and keep it in a bottle well stopped for use. 

Blue Colour. 
This colour is only for present use, and must be 
made thus : put a little warm water into a plate, and 
rub an indigo stone in it till tlie colour is come to the 
tint you would have it. The more you rub it, the 
higher the colour will be. 

Yelloiv Colour. 
This is done by pouring a little water into a plate, 
and rubbing it with a bit of gamboge. It may also 
be done with yellow lily thus : take the heart of the 
flower, infuse the colour with milk-warm water, and 
preserve it in a bottle well stopped. 

Green Colour. 

Trim the leaves of some spinach, boil them about 
half a minute in a little water, then strain it clear off, 
and it will be fit for use. 

Any alteration may be made in these colours, by 
mixing to what shade you think proper; but on these 
occasions taste and fancy must be your guide. 

Devices in Sugar. 
Steep gum-tragacanth in rose-water, and with some 
Jouble-refined sugar make it into a paste. Colour it 
to your fancy, and make up your device in such forms 
as you may think proper. You may have moulds 
made in various shapes for this purpose, and your de- 
vices will be pretty ornaments placed on the top of iced 
cakes. 20* 



236 CREAMS. 

Sugar of Roses in various figures. 

Chip ofl' the white part of some rose-buds, and drV 
them in the sun. Pound an ounce of them very fine ; 
then take a pound of loaf-sugar, wet it in some rose- 
water, and boil it to a candy height; then put in your 
powder of roses, and the juice of a lemon. Mix all well 
together, then put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lo- 
zenges, or make it into any kind of shapes or figures 
your fancy may draw. If you want to use them as 
ornaments for a desert, you may gild or colour them 
to your taste. 

SECT. II. 
CREAMS and JAMS. 

Orange Cream. 

Pare off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and 
then squeeze out the juice of four oranges. Put them 
into a stew-pan, with a pint of water, and eight ounces 
of sugar ; mix with them the whites of five eggs well 
beat, and set the whole over the fire. Stir it one Avay 
till it becomes thick and white, then strain it through 
ri gauze, and keep stirring it till it is cold. Then beat 
the yolks of five eggs very fine, and put it into your 
pan with some cream and tlie other articles. Stir it 
over a slow fire till it is ready to boil, and pour it into 
1 basin, and having stirred it till it is quite cold, put it 
into your glasses. 

Lemon Cream. 

Cut off the rinds of two lemons as thin as you can, 
then squeeze out the juice of three, and add to them a 
pint of spring water. Mix with them the whites of 
six eggs beat very fine, sweeten it to your taste, and 
keep stirring it till it thickens, but be careful it does 
not boil. Strain it through a cloth, then mix with it 
the yolks of six egos well beat up, and put it over the 
fire to thicken. Then pour it into a bowl, and whec 
it is thoroughly cold, put it into your glasses. 



CREAMS. £37 

Hartshorn Cream. 
Take fom- ounces of the shavings of hartshorn, boil 
theni in three pints of water till it is reduced to half a 
pint, and then run it through a jelly-bag. Put to it a 
pint of cream, and four ounces of fine sugar, and let it 
just boil up. Put it into jelly-glasses, let it stand till 
it is cold, and then, by dipping your gla.sses into scald- 
ing water, it will slip out whole. Then stick them all 
over with slices of almonds cut lengthways. It is gene- 
rally eaten with w hite wine and sugar. 

Burnt Cream. 
Take a little clarified sugar, put it into your sugar- 
pan, and let it boil till it colours in the pan ; then pour 
in your cream, stirring it all the time till the sugar is 
dissolved. The cream may be made in the following 
manner : to a pint of cream take five eggs, a quarter 
of a pound of fine sugar, and a spoonfal of orange-flow er 
water; set it over the fire, stirring it till it is thick', 
but be sure it does not boil, or else it will curdle. 

Burnt Cream another Way. 
Boil a pint of cream with sugar and a little lemon- 
peel sirred fine ; and then beat up the yolks of six, and 
the wiiites of four eggs separately. When your cream 
has got cool, put in your eggs, with a spoonfal of orange- 
flower water, and one of fine flour. Set it over the fire, 
keep stirring it till it is thick, and then pour it into a 
dish. When it is cold, sift a quarter of a pound of fine 
sugar all ov^er it, and hold a hot salamander over it till 
it is of a nice light brown colour. 

Blanched Cream. 
Take a quart of very thick cream, and mix with it 
some fine sugar and orange-flower water. Boil it, and 
beat up the whites of twenty eggs, with a little cold 
cream; strain it, and wiien the cream is upon the boil, 
pour in the eggs, and keep stirring it till it comes to a 
thick curd. Then take it up, and strain it through a 
Hair sieve ; beat it well with a spoon till it is cold, and 
then put it into a dish. 



238 CREAMS. 

Crean„ a-la Franchipane. 

Pu twG spoonsful of flour into a stew-pan, with 
some gi'ated ienion-peel, some dried orange-flowers 
shred fine, and a little salt; beat up the yolks and 
whites of six eggs, with a pint of milk, and a bit of 
sugar; make it boil, and stir it over the Are half an 
hour: when cold, use it to make a franchipane pie or 
tartlets, for which nothing more is necessary than to 
put it upon a puff-paste, and when it is cold glaze it 
with sugar. You may put in a few ratifia biscuits to 
give it a flavour. 

Whijyt Cream. 

Take the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick 
cream, and half a pint of sack. Mix them together, 
and sv^^eeten it to your taste with double-refined sugar. 
You may perfume it, if you please, with a little musk 
or ambergris tied in a rag, and steeped a little in the 
cream. Whip it up with a wliisk, and some lemon-peel 
tied in the middle of the whisk. Take the froth with 
a spoon, and lay it in your glasses or basins. This put 
over fine tarts has a pretty appearance. 

Spanish Cream. 

Take three spoonsful of flour of rice sifted very fine, 
the yolks of three eggs, three spoonsful of water, and 
two of orange-flower water. Then put to them one 
pint of cream, and set it upon a good fire ; keep stirring 
it till it is of a pre per thickness, and then pour it into 
cups. 

Steeple Cream. 

Take five ounces of hartshorn and two ounces of 
isinglass, and put them into a stone bottle ; fill it up 
v.'ith fair water to the neck; put in a small quantity 
of gum-arabic and gum-dragon; then tie up the bottle 
very close, and set it into a pot of water, with hay at 
the bottom. When it has stood six hours, take it out, 
and let it stand an hour before you open it; then strain 
it, and it will be a strong jelly. Take a pound of 
blanched almonds, beat them very fine, mix it with a 
pint of thick cream, and let it stand a little ; then strain 



:reams. 239 

♦ 

It out, and mix it with a pound of je^y ; set it over tlie 
(ire till it is scalding hot, and sweeten it to your taste 
with double-refined sugar. Then take it otf, put in a 
little amber, and pour it into small high gallipots. 
When it is cold, turn them, and lay cold cream about 
them in heaps. Be careful it does not boil when you 
put in the crean . 

Barley Cream. 
Take a small quantity of pearl barley, boil it in 
milk and water till it is tender, and then strain off the 
liquor. Put your barley into a quart of cream, and let 
it boil a little. Take the whites of five eggs, and the 
yolk of one, and beat them up with a spoonful of fine 
tlour, and two spoonsful of orange-flower water. Then 
take the cream oft' the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, 
and set it over the fire again to thicken. Sweeten it 
to your taste, and pour it into basins for use. 

Pistachio Cream. 
Take out the kernels of half a pound of pistachio 
nuts, and beat them in a mortar with a spoonfid of 
brandy. Put them into a pan with a pint of good 
cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat fine. Stir it 
gently over the fire till it grows thick, and then put it 
into a china soup-plate. When it is cold, stick it over 
with small pieces of the nuts, and send it to table. 

Tea Cream. 
Boil a quarter of an ounce of fine hyson tea with 
half a pint of milk ; then strain it, and put in half a pint 
of cream, and two spoonsful of rennet. Set it over 
some hot embers in the dish you intend to send to table, 
and cover it with a tin plate. When it is thick it will 
be done, and fit to serve up. 

Coffee Cream. 
Boil three ounces of coffee with a pint and a half 
of water, and when it has boiled up four or five times, 
let it settle, and pour it olf clear. Put it into a stew- 
pan, with a pint of milk sweetened to your taste, and 



240 TREAMS.^ 

let it boil till there remains no more than sufficient for 
the size of your disli : beat np the yolks of six eggs 
with a little flour, and then add some cream ; strain it 
through a sieve into your ste\v-))an, and thicken it over 
the fire. Serve it up, after passing a hot salamander, 
not too hot, over it. 

Chocolate Cream. 

Take a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, 
and having scraped it linis put to it as much water as 
will dissolve it. Thoi beat it half an hour in a mor- 
tar, and put in as much fine sugar as will sweeten it, 
and a pint and a half of cream. Mill it, and as the 
froth rises, lay it on a sieve. Put the remainder of 
your cream in posset-glasses, and lay the frothed cream 
upon them. 

Chocolate Cream another Way. 

Scrape two squares of chocolate, and put them 
into a stew-pan, with four ounces of sugar, a pint of 
milk, and half a pint of creani ; let it boil till a third 
is consumed, and when nearly cold, beat up the yolks 
of seven eggs with it, and strain the whole through a 
sieve. Set your cream over the fire to thicken, but it 
must not boil. 

Pompadour Cream. 

Beat the whites of five eggs to a strong froth, then 
put them into a pan, with two spoonsful of orange- 
flower water, and two ounces of sugar. Stir it gently 
f )" three or four minutes, then put it into your dish, and 
pour melted butter over it. This must be served up 
liot, and makes a pretty corner dish for a second course 
at dinner. 

Ratijia Cream. 

Take six large laurel leaves, and boil them in a 
quart of thick milk with a little ratifia, and when it has 
boiled throw aw^ay the leaves Beat the yolks of four 
eggs with a little cold cream, and sweeten it with sugar 
to your taste. Then thicken the cream with your 
eggs, and set it over the fire again, but do not let it boil. 
Keep stirring it all the time one way, and then pour it 
into china dish»:'s. This must be served up cold. 



CREAMS, <SrC. 241 

Raspberry Cream. 

Rub a quart of raspberries, or raspberry -jam, 
Lhroiigli a liair sieve, to take out the seeds, and then 
laix it well with cream. Sweeten it with sugar to 
your taste; then put it into a stone jug, and raise a 
ft'oth with a chocolate mill. As your froth rises, take 
it otf with a spoon, and lay it upon a hair sieve. When 
you have got as much froth as you want, put what 
cream remains into a deep china dish, or punch-bowl, 
pour your frothed cream upon it as high as it will lie on. 

Ice Cream. 

To a pound of preserved fruit, which may be of 
what kind you choose, add a quart of good cream, the 
juice of two lemons squeezed into it, and some sugar 
to your palate. Let the whole be rubbed through a 
fine hair sieve, and if raspberry, strawberry, or any red 
fruit, you must add a little cochineal to heighten the 
colour: have your freezing pot nice and clean, and 
put your cream into it, cover it, and put it into your 
tub with ice beat small, and some salt; turn the freez- 
ing pot quick, and as the cream sticks to the sides 
scrape it down with your ice spoon, and so on till it is 
froze. The more the cream is worked with the spoon 
the smoother and better flavoured it will be. After it 
is well froze, take it out, and put it into ice shapes 
with fresh salt and ice ; when you serve it, carefully 
wash the shapes, for fear any salt should adhere to 
them ; dip them in water luke-warm, and send them 
up to table. 

Fruit Ices may be inade either with water or cream 
If water, two pounds of fruit, a pint of spring water, 
a pint of clarified sugar, and the juice of two lemons. 

Chocolate, coffee, ginger, vanilla, biscuit, and 
noyeau, are all custaid ices, and must be set over the 
fire like set creams, and froze like the others when the 
custard is cold. Observe, no flour must be used in set 
creams for \ct^. 

No. II. V li 



242 JAMS. 

Raspberry Jam. 

liLT your raspberries be thoroiigbly ripe, and quite 
dry. 3Iash tliem fine, and strew them in tlicir own 
weight of loaf-sugar, and half their weiglit of the juice 
of white currants. Boil them half an hour over a clear 
slow fire, skim them well, and put them into pots, or 
glasses. Tie them down with l)randy ))apers, and keep 
them dry. Strew on the sugar as soon as you can after 
the berries are gathered, and in order to preserve their 
fine flavom% do not let tliem stand long before you boil 
them. 

Strawberry Jam. 

Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries gather- 
ed when quite ripe, and put to them a httle juice of 
red currants. Beat and sift their weight in sugar, 
strew it over them, and put them into a preserving- 
pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim tliem, 
boil them twenty minutes, and then put them into 
glasses. 

Apricot Jam. 

Get some of the ripest apricots you can. Pare and 
cut them thin, and then infuse them in an earthen pan 
till tender and dry. To every pound and a half of 
apricots, put a pound of double-refined sugar, and three 
spoonsful of water. Boil your sugar to a candy height, 
and then put it upon your apricots. Stir them over a 
slow fire till they look clear and thick, but be careful 
they do not boil ; then pom- them into yomr glasses. 

Gooseberry Jam,. 

Cut and pick out the seeds of fine large green 
gooseberries, gathered when they are full grown but 
not ripe. Put them into a pan of water, gi'een them, 
and put them into a sieve to drain. Then beat them 
in a marble mortar, with their weight in sugar. Take 
a quart of gooseberries, boil them to a mash in a quart 
of water, squeeze them, and to every pint of liquor 
pnt a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Then boil and skim it. 
put in your green goosclierries, and having boiled 



JELLIES. 243 

Jiem till they are very tliick, clear, and of a protty 
green, put tJiein into glasses. 

Black Currant Jam. 
Gather your currants when they are thoroughly 
ripe and dry, and pick them clean from the stalks. 
Then bruise them well in a bowl, and to every two 
pounds of currants, pat a pound and a half of loaf-sugar 
finely beaten. Put them into a preserving-pan, boil 
them half an hour, skim and stir them all the time, and 
then put them into pots. 

Icings for Cakes, or various Articles in Confec- 
tionary. 

Take a pound of double-refinea sugar pounded and 
sifted fine, and mix it with the whites of twenty-four 
eggs in an earthen pan. Whisk them well for two or 
three hours till it looks white and thick, and then, with 
a broad thin board, or bunch of feathers, spread it all 
over the tops and sides of the cake. Set it at a proper 
distance before a clear fire, and keep turning it con- 
tinually, that it may not lose its colom* ; but a cool oven 
is best, where an hoiu' will harden it. 

Or you may make it thus : 
Beat the whites of three eggs to a strong fi'oth : 
bruise a pound of Jordan almonds very fine with rose- 
water, and mix your almonds with the eggs lightly to- 
gether. Then beat a pound of loaf-sugar very fine, 
and put it in by degrees. When your cake (or what 
ever article it may be) is enough, lay on your icing. 



SECT. III. 
JELLIES, SYLLABUBS, &c. 

Calfs Feet Jelly. 

Boil two calf's feet well cleaned in a gallon of 
water till it is reduced to a quart, and then pour it into 
a pan. When it is>cold, skim off all the f- 1, and take 
21 



244 JELLIES. 

tlie jelly up clean. Leave Avhat settling may remain 
at tiie bottom, and pnt the jelly into a saucepan, with 
a pint of mountain wine, half a pound of loaf-su<rar 
and tiie juice of four lemong. Add to these the white> 
of six or eight eggs well beat up; stir all well together, 
put it on the hre, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour 
it into a large flannel ])ag, and repeat it till it runs 
clear; then have ready a large china basin, and put 
into it some lemon-peel cut as thin as possible. Let 
the jelly ran into the basin, and the lemon-peel will 
not only give it a pleasing colour, but a grateful flavour. 
Fill your glasses, and it will be flt for use. 

Hartshorn Jelly. 

Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of 
water over a gentle fire, till it becomes a jelly. If you 
take out a little to cool, and it hangs on a spoon, it is 
enough. Strain it while it is hot, put it into a well-tin- 
ned saucepan, and add to it a pint of Rhenish wine, 
and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat the VA'hites 
of four eggs or more to a froth, stir it altogether that 
the w hites may mix well with the jelly, and pour it in 
as if you were cooling it. Let it boil two or three 
minutes, then put in the juice of three or four lemons, 
and let it boil a miriute or two longer. When it is 
finely curdled, and of a pure white colour, have ready 
a s^van-skin jelly-bag over a china basin, pour in your 
jelly, and pour it back again till it is as clear as rock- 
water ; then set a very clean china basin under, have 
your glasses as clean as possible, and with a clean 
spoon fill them. Have ready some thin rind of lemons, 
and when you liave filled half your glasses, throw" your 
peel into the basin. When the jelly is all run out of 
the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest of the glasses, 
and they will look of a fine amber colour. Put in le- 
mon and sugar to your palate, but renjember to make 
it pretty sweet, otherwise it will not be palatable. 
No fixed rule can be given for putting in the ingredients, 
which can only be regulated according to taste and 
fancy. 



JELLIES. 245 

Orange Jelly. 

Take three ounces ofisinglass, and a quart of water, 
let it boil till the isinglass is all dissolved, then put in 
three quarters of a pound of tine sugar, the juice of 
four lemons, and twelve oranges if small, if large eight; 
let tiie rinds of six of the oranges be rubbed on some 
sugar, and scraped into yoju' isinglass while boiling; 
when done, strain it through a fine lawn sieve; if you 
have any dried crocus flowers to boil in your jelly it 
will give it a fine yellow tinge, and leave no taste. 

Fruit in Jelly, 

Put into a basin half a pint of clear calf's feet jelly, 
and when it is set and stiff, lay in three fine peaches, 
and a bunch of grapes with the stalk upwards. Put 
over them a few vine leaves, and then fill up your bowl 
with jelly. Let it stand till the next day, and then 
set your basin to the brim in hot water. When you 
perceive it gives way from the basin, lay your dish over 
it, turn your jelly carefully out, and serve it to table. 

Blanc Mange. 

There are various methods of making this jelly, 
but the best, and those most usually practised are three ; 
the first of which is termed green, and is prepared from 
isinglass in the following manner : 

Having dissolved your isinglass, put to it two ounces 
of sweet, and the same quantity of bitter almonds, with 
some of the juice of spinach to make it green, and a 
spoonful of French brandy. Set it over a stove fire in 
a saucepan, and let it remain till it is almost ready to 
boil ; then strain it througii a gauze siev^e, and when it 
grows thick, put it into a melon mould, let lie till the 
next day, and then turn it out. You may garnish it 
with red and while flowers. 

The second method of preparing this jelly is also from 
'singlass, and must be done thus: put into a quart of 
water an ounce of isinglass, and let it boil till it is re- 
duced to a pint; then put in the whites of lour eggs, 
with tv o spoonsful of rice vrater, and sweeten it to 



2^i>6 JELLIES- 

your taste. Run it thron<jfli a jelly-bag, and then put 
to it two ounces of sweet and one -ounce of bitter al- 
monds. Give them a scald in your jelly, and then run 
them through a hair sieve. Then put it into a china 
bowl, and the next day turn it out. Garnish with 
flowers or green leaves, and stick all over the top 
blanched almonds cut lengthways. 

The third sort of blanc mange is called clear, and is 
prepared thus : skim off the fat, and strain a quart of 
strong calf's feet jelly. Then beat the whites of four 
eggs, and put theni to your jelly. Set it over the fire, 
and keep stirring it till it boils. Then pour it into a 
jelly-bag, and run it through several times till it is clear. 
Beat an ounce of sweet and the same quantity of bit- 
ter almonds to a paste, with a spoonful of rose-water 
squeezed through a cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, 
and add to it three spo(msful of very good cream. Set 
it again over the fire, and keep stirring it till it almost 
boils. Pour it into a bowl, stir it very often till it is 
ahnost cold, then wet your moulds, and fill them. 

Jaunmange. 

Take three quarters of an ounce of isinglass and 
half a pint of water boiled together till the isinglass is 
just dissolved, then put in the rind and juice of a lemon, 
half a pint of mountain wine, and sugar to your palate; 
after it is all boiled together, let it stand till almost 
cold, then add four yolks of eggs. Put it again on the 
fire, till it almost boils, then strain it through a fine 
lawn sieve, and keep stirring it till cold. 

Black Currant Jelly. 

Let your currants be thoroughly ripe, and quite 
dry; strip them clear from the stalks, and put them 
into a large stew-pot. To every ten quarts of currants 
put one quart of ^vatcr. Tie paper close over them, 
and set them for two hours in a cool oven. Then 
squeeze them tliro\igh a very fine cloth, and to every 
quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf-sugar 
broken 'uto small pieces. Stir it gently till the sugar 



JELLIES. 24? 

13 melted, and when it boils, take off the scum quite 
clean. Let it boil'}:)retty quick over a clear fire, till it 
jellie?, which is known by dipping the skimmer into 
yonr jelly and liolding it in the air; when it hangs to 
the spoon in a drop, it is done. You may also put 
some into a plate to try, and if there comes a thick 
skin, it is done. If the jelly is boiled too long it will 
lose its flavour, and shrink very much. Pour it into 
pots, co7er them with brandy papers, and keep them 
in a dry place. Red and white jelly is made in the 
same manner. 

Riband Jelly. 
Take out the great bones of four calf's feet, and 
put the meat into a pot with ten quarts of water, three 
ounces of hartshorn, the same quantity of isinglass, a 
nutmeg quartered, and four blades of mace. Boil it 
till it comes to two quarts, then strain it through a flan- 
nel bag, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then 
scrape off all the fat from the top very clean, slice the 
jelly, and put to it the whites of six eggs beaten to a 
froth. Boil it a little, and strain it through a flannel 
()ag. Then run the jelly into little high glasses, and 
run every colour as thick as your finger ; but observe, 
that one colour must be thoroughly cold before you put 
on another ; and that Avhich you put on must be blood- 
warm, otherwise they will mix together. You must 
colour red with cochineal, green with spinach, yellow 
vvithsalfron, blue with syrup of violets, and white with 
thick cream. 

Savoury Jelly. 
Take some thin slices of lean veal and ham, and 
put them into a stew-pan, with a carrot or turnip, and 
two or tlu*ee onions. Cover it, and let it sweat on a 
slow fire till it is of a deep brown colour. Then put 
to it a quart of very clear broth, some whole pepper, 
mace, a little isinglass, and salt to your palate. Boil 
it ten minutes, then strain it, skim ofl' all the fat, and 
put to it the whites of three eggs. Then run it seve- 
ral times through a jelly-bag till it is perfectly clear 

a'v^ pour it into vour fT^L'ssCvS. 
21* " 



248 SYLLABUBS. 

Common Syllabubs. 

Put a pint of cider and a bottly of strong beer in- 
to a large bow], grate in a small nutmeg, and sueeten 
it to your taste. Then milk from tbo» cow as much 
milk as will make a strong froth. Let it stand an hour, 
and then strew over it a few currants well washed, 
picked, and plumed before the fire ; and it will be fit 
for use. 

Whipt Syllabub. 

Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a lemon, 
and put it into a pint of thick cream, and sweeten it 
to your taste. Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, 
and add a glass of Madeira wine, or French brandy. 
Mill it to a froth with a chocolate-mill, take off the 
froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair sieve. . Then fill 
one half of your glasses a little more than half full ^vith 
white w ine, and the other half of your glasses a little 
more than half full with red wine. Then lay your 
froth as high as you can, but take care that it is well 
drained on your sieve, otherwise it will mix wuth the 
wine, and your syllabub be spoiled. 

Solid Syllabub. 

To a quart of rich cream put a pint of white wine, 
the juice of two lemons, with the rind of one grated, 
and sweeten it to your taste. Whip it up well, and 
take off the froth as it rises. Put it upon a hair sieve, 
and let it stand in a cool place till the next day. Then 
half fill your glasses with the skim, and heap up the 
fi'otli as high as you can. The bottom will look clear, 
and it will keep several days. 

Lemon Syllabubs. 

Take a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and rub 
u])on the outer rinds of two lemons, till you have got 
all the essence out of them. Then put the sugar into 
a pint of cream, and the same quantity of white wine. 
Squeeze in the juice of both lemons, and let it stand 
br two hours. Then mill it with a chocolate-mill to raise 



SYLLABUBS, <^C. 249 

the froth, and take it off with a spoon as it rises, or il 
will make it heavy. Lay it upon a hair sieve to drain, 
then till your glasses with the remainder, and lay on 
the froth as high as you can. Let them stand all night, 
and they will be fit for use. 

Everlasting Syllabubs. 

Take half a pint of Rhenish wine, half a pint of 
sack, with tiie juice of two large Seville oranges, and 
put them into two pints and a half of thick cream. 
Grate in just the yellow rind of three lemons, and put 
in a pound of double-refined sugar well beaten and 
sifted. Mix all together with a spoonful of orange- 
flower water, and with a whisk beat it ^vell together 
for half an hour. Then, with a spoon, take off the 
froth, lay it on a sieve to drain, and fill your glasses. 
These w^illkeep better than a week, and should always 
be made a day before they are wanted. The best way to 
wiiip a syllabub is this : have a fine large chocolate-mill, 
u'hich you must keep on purpose, and a large deep bowl 
to mill them in, as this way they will be done quicker, 
and the froth be the stronger. For the thin that is 
left at the bottom, have ready some calf "s feet jelly 
boiled and clarified, in which must be nothing but the 
calf s feet boiled to a hard jelly. When it is cold, take 
ofi' the fat, clear it with the wdiites of eggs, run it 
through a flannel bag, and mix it with the clear left oi 
the syllabub. Sweeten it to your palate, give it a boil, 
and then pour it into basins, or such other vessels as 
you may think proper. When cold, turn it out, and 
it will be exceeding fine. 

A Hedgehog. 

Take two pounds of blanched almonds, and beat 
then.i well in a mortar, witli a little canary and orange- 
flower water to keep them from oiling. Work them 
into a stiff paste, and then beat in the yolks of twelve, 
and the w hites of seven eggs. Put to it a pint of cream, 
sweeten it to your taste, and set it on a clear fire. 
Keep i< constantly stirring till it is tli'ck enough to 



250 SYLLABUBS, c^'f. 

make into the form of an hedgehog. Then stick it full 
of bhinched ahnonds, sHt and stuck up hke the bristles 
of a hedgehog, and then put it into a dish. Take apint 
of cream, and the yolks of four eggs beat up, and 
sweeten it to your palate. Stir tiie Avhole together 
over a slow fu'e till it is quite hot, and then pour it in- 
to the dish round the hedgehog, and let it stand till it 
is cold, ^vhen its form will have a pleasing effect. 

Flummery. 

Take an ounce of bitter and the same quantity of 
sweet almonds, put them in a basin, and pour over 
them some boiling Avater to make the skins come off. 
Then strip oft' the skins, and throw the kernels into 
cold water ; take them out, and beat them in a marble 
mortar, with a little rose-water to keep them from 
oiling; and when they are beat, put them into a pint 
of calf's feet stock : set it over the fire, and sweeten 
it to your taste with loaf sugar. As soon as it boils, 
strain it through a piece of muslin or gauze ; and when 
it is a little cold, put it into a pint of cream, and keep 
stirring it often till it grows thick and cold. Wet your 
moulds in cold water, and pour in the flummery. Let 
them stand about six hours before you turn them out; 
and if you make your flummery stift", and wet your 
moulds, it will turn out without putting them in- 
to warm water, which will be a great advantage to the 
look of the figures, as warm water gives a dulness to 
the flummery. 

French Flummery. 

Put an ounce of isinglass beat very fine into a 
quart of cream, and mix them well together. Let it 
boil gently over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, 
and keep it stirring all the time. Then take it off, 
sweeten "it to your taste, and put in a spoonful of rose- 
water, and another of orange-flower water. Strain it, 
and pour it into a glass or basin, and when it is cold 
turn it out. 



PRESERVING, t^'C. 251 

Green Melon in Flummery. 

Take a little stiff fluiiiinery, and put into it some 
bitter almonds, with as much juice of spinach as ^\ill 
make it of a fine pale green. When it becomes as thick 
as good cream, wet youj melon-mould, and put it in. 
Then put a pint of clear calf s feet jelly into a large 
basin, and let them stand all night. The next day 
turn out your melon, and lay it in the middle of your 
basin and jelly. Then fill up your basin with jelly 
that is beginning to set, and let it stand all night. 
The next morning turfi it out in the same manner as 
directed for the Fruit in Jelly. See p. 245. For 
ornament, put on tlie top a garland of flowers. 

Solomon, s Temple in Flummery. 

Take a quart of stiff flummery, and divide it into 
three parts. Make one part a pretty thick colour with 
a httle cochineal bruised fine, and steeped in French 
brandy. Scrape an ounce of ch )colate very fine, dis- 
solve it in a little strong coffee, and mix it with another 
part of yom* flummery, to make it a light stone colour. 
The last part must be white. Then wet your temple- 
mould, and fit it in a pot to stand even. Fill the top 
of the temple with red flummery for the steps, and the 
four points with white. Then fill it up with chocolate 
flummery, and let it stand till the next day. Then 
loosen it round with a pin, and shake it loose very 
gently; but do notdip your mould in warm water, as 
that will take oft' the gloss, and spoil the colour. When 
you turn it out, stick a small sprig of flowers down 
fi-om the top of every point, which will not only 
strengthen it, but give it a pretty appearance. liay 
round ic rock candy sweetmeats. 



SECT. IV. 

PRESERVING FRUIT, &c. 

Some general rules are necessary to be observed in 



252 PRESERVING 

tliis part of tlie Art of Confectionary, and wliich \ve 
shall previously notice as well for the instruction as 
reputation of those whose pj-oviiice it may be occasion- 
ally to use such articles. In the fir-st place remember, 
that in making your syrups, the sugar is well poundec' 
Mtul dissolved before you set it on the fire, which wi.. 
not only make the scum lise well, but cause the syrup 
to have its proper coloiu\ When you })reserve cherries, 
damsons, or any other kind of stone fruit, cover them 
with mutton-suet rendered, in order to keep out the 
air, which, if it penetrate, will totally dt^s troy them. 
All \A et sweetmeats must be kept in a dry and cool 
|)lace, as they will be subject to grow mouldy and 
(lamj), and too much heat will destroy their virtue. 
Dip writing paper into brandy, kiy,it close to the 
sweetmeats, cover them quite tight with paper, and 
they will keep for any length of time without recei^ ing 
ihe least injury. Without these precautions, all art 
and endeavom's will prove ineffectual. 

Apricots. 

Gather your apricots before your stones beconit 
hard, put them into a pan of cold spring water will 
plenty of vine leaves; set them over a slow fire till 
they are quite yellow, then take them out, and rub 
rhem with a flannel and salt to take off the lint. Put 
them into the pan to the same water and leaves, co- 
\ er them close, set them at a good ^listance from the 
(ire till they are a fine light green, then take them 
carefully up, and pick out all the bad-coloured and 
hroken ones. Boil the best gently two or three times 
in a thin syrup, and let them be quite cold each time 
before you boil them. When they look plump and 
clear, make a syrup of double-refined sugar, b\it not 
too thick ; give your apricots a gentle boil in it, and 
tlien put them into your pots or glasses. Dip paper 
in brandy, lay it over them, tie it close, and keep them 
in a dry place fo" use. 

Peaches. 

Get tlie largest peaches you can, but do not lei 



FRUITS. 253 

them be too ripe. Rub oft' the lint witli a cloth, and 
then run them down the seam with a pin skin deep, 
and cover them with French brandy. Tie a bladder 
ov-er them, and let them stand a week. Then take 
them ont, and make a strong syrup for them. Boil 
and skim it well, tlien put in your peaches, and boil 
them till they look clear; then take them but, and 
put them into pots or glasses. Mix the syrup with the 
brandy, and when it is cold, pour it on your peaches. 
Tie then*i so close down with a bladder, that no air 
can come to them, otherwise they will turn black, and 
be totally spoiled. 

Quinces. 

These may be preser\ ed either whole or in quar- 
ters, and must be done thus : pare them very thin and 
round, put them into a saucepan, fill it with hard wa- 
ter, and lay the parings over the quinces to keep them 
down. Cover your saucepan close, that none of the 
steam may get out, set them over a slow fire till tliey 
are soft, and of a fine pink colour, and then let them 
stand till they are cold. Make a good syrup of dou- 
ble refined sugar, and boil, and skim it well; then 
put in your quinces, let them boil ten minutes, take 
them oft", and let them stand two or three hours. 
Then boil them till the syrup looks thick, and the 
quinces clear. Put them into deep jars, with the 
syrup, and cover them close with brandy-paper and 
leather. 

Bai'berries. 

To preserve barberries for tarts, you must proceed 
thus : pick the female branches clean from the stalk ; 
take their weight of loaf sugar, and put them into a 
jar. Set them in a kettle of boiling water till the 
sugar is melted, and the barberries quite soft, and then 
let them stand all night. The next day put tliem into 
a preserving pan, and boil them fifteen minutes, then < 
pat them into jars, tie them close, and set them by for 
ise 

If you intend to preserve your barberries in bunches 
vou must proceed ns follows : having procured the 



254 PRESERVING 

finest female barberries, select all the largest branches, 
aii'l then pick the rest fro.n tlic stalks. Put them in 
as much water as will make a syrup for your bunches. 
J5oil them till they are soft, then strain tliem through 
a sieve, and to every pint of juice put a pound and a 
half of loaf sugar. Boil and skim it well, and to every 
pint of syrup put half a pound of barberries in bunches. 
Boil them till they look very fine and clear, tlien put 
them carefully into pots or glasses, and tie them close 
down with paper dipped in brandy- 

Pine -Apples.. 

These must be taken before they are ripe, and laid 
in strong salt and water for five days. Then put into 
tlie bottom of a large saucepan a handfid of vine-leaves, 
and put in your pine-apples. Fill your pan with vine- 
leaves, and then pour in the salt and water they w^ere 
laid in. Cover it np very close, set them over a slo\\ 
hre, and let them stand till they are of a fine light green. 
Have ready a thin syrup, made of a quart of water, 
and a pound of double-refined sugar. AVhen it is al- 
most cold, put it into a deej) jar, and put in the pine- 
apples with their tops on. Let them stand a week, 
and take care they are well covered with the syrup. 
When they have, stood a week, boil your syrup again, 
and pour it carefully into yonr jar, lest you break the 
tops of your pine-apples. Let it stand eight or ten 
weeks, and during that time give the syrup two oi 
three boilings to keep it from moulding. Let yonr 
syrup stand till it is near cold before you put it on; 
and wiien your pine-apples look quite full and gi'een, 
take them out of the syrup, and make a thick syrup 
of three pounds of doulDle-refined sugar, with as much 
water as will dissolve it. Boil and skim it well, put 
a few slices of w bite ginger into it, and when it is 
liearly cold, pour it upon your pineapples. Tie them- 
down close with a bladder, and they will keep many 
years without shrinking. 

Grapes. 

Take some closo ])iriches (whether white or red iji 



FRUITS. 255 

immaterial) not too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put 
to them a quarter of a pound of sugar-candy, and fill 
the jar with common brandy. Tie them up close with 
a bladder, and set them in a dry place. 

Morello Cherries. 
Gather your cherries when they are full ripe, take 
oil" the stalks, and prick them with a pin. To every 
pound of cherries put a pound and a half of loaf-sugar. 
Beat part of your sugar, strew it over them, and let 
them stand all night. Dissolve the rest of your sugar 
in half a pint of the juice of currants, set it over a slow 
fire, and put in the cherries with the sugar, and give 
them a gentle scald. Then take them carefully out, 
boil yaur syrup till it is thick, pour i' upon the cherries, 
and tie them down close. 

Green CocUins, or other Fine Sauce Apples. 
Gather them when they are about the size of a 
large walnut, with the stalks and a leaf or two on them. 
Put a handful of vine leaves into a pan of spring wa- 
ter ; then put a layer of codlins, then one of vine leaves, 
and so on till the pan is full. Cover it close to pre- 
vent the steam getting out, and set it on a slow fire. 
Wiien you find them .soft, take otF the skins witli a 
penknife, and then put them in the same water with 
the vine leaves, wdiich must be quite cold, otherwise 
they will be apt to crack. Put in a little roach alum, 
and set them over a very slow fire till they are green, 
which will be in three or four hours. Then take them 
out, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Make a good 
syrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three 
days. Then put them into small jars, cover them 
close with brandy-paper, tie them down tight, and set 
them in a dry place. They will keep all the year. 

Golden Pippins. 
Boil the rind of an orange very tender, and let it 
lay in water two or three days. Take a quart of gol- 
den pippins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a 
strong jelly, and run it through a jelly-bag. Then take 



256 PRESERVING 

twelve of the largest pippins, pare them, and scrapo 
out the cores. Put a pint of water into a stew-pan, 
with two pounds of loaf sugar. When it boils, skim 
it, and put in yoiu' pippins, Avitii the orange rind in thin 
slices. Let tiiem boil fust till the sugar is very tliick, 
and \vill almost candy. Then ])ut a pint of the pip- 
pin-jelly, and boil them flist till the jelly is quite clear. 
Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give it a boil, 
and with the orange-peel, put them into pots or glasses, 
and cover them close. 

Green Gage Plums. 
Get the finest plums you can, gathered just before 
they are ripe. Put a layer of vine-leaves at the hot 
tom of your pan, then a layer of plums, and then vine 
leaves and plums alternately, till the pan is nearly fill 
ed. Then put in as much water as it will hold, se^ 
it over a slow fire, and when the plums are hot, and 
begin to crack, take them off, and pare off the skins 
very carefully, putting them into a sieve, as you do 
them. Then lay them in the same water, with a 
layer of leaves between as you did at first, and cover 
them so close that no steam can get out. Hang them 
at a great distance from the fire till they are green, 
which will take at least five or six hours. Then take 
them carefully up, lay them on a hair sieve to drain, 
make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil in it 
twice a day for two days. Then take them out, put 
them into a fine clear syrup, and cover them close 
down with brandy-paper. 

Oranges. 
Take what number of Seville oranges you think 
proper, cut a hole at the stalk end of each, about the 
size of a sixpence, and scoop out the pulp quite clean ; 
tie them separately in pieces of muslin, and lay them 
in spring water for two days. Change the water twice 
every day, and then boil them in the muslin on a slow 
fire till they are quite tender. As the water wastes, 
put more hot water into the pan, and keep them co- 
vered. Weigli the oranges before you scoop them, and 



FRUITS. 257 

to every pa iind put two pounds of double-refined sugar, 
and a pint of water. Boil the sugar and water with 
the juice of the oranges to a syrup, skim it well, let it 
stand till it is cold, then take the oranges out of tiie 
muslin, put them into the pan, and let them boil half 
an hour. If they are not quite clear, boil them once 
a day for two or three days. Then pare and core 
some green pippins, and boil them till the water is 
strong of the apple ; but do not stir them, and only put 
them down with the back of a spoon. Strain the wa- 
ter through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and then to 
every pint of water put a pound of double-refined sugar, 
and the juice of a lemon strained fine. Boil it up to a 
strong jelly, drain the oranges out of the syrup, and 
put tiiem into glass jars, or pots the size of an orange, 
with the holes upwards. Pour the jelly over them, 
cover them wuth papers dipped in brandy, and tie them 
close down with a bladder. You may preserve lemons 
in the same manner. 

Rasphernes. 

Gather your raspberries on a dry day, when they 
are just turning red, with the stalks on about an inch 
long. Lay them singly on a dish, then beat and sift 
their weight of double-refined sugar, and strew it over 
them. To every quart of raspberries take a quart of 
red-currant juice, and put to it its weight of double- 
refined sugar. Boil and skim it well, then put in your 
raspberries, and give them a scald. Take them off. 
and let them stand for two hours. Then set them on 
again, and make them a little hotter. Proceed in this 
manner two or three times till they look clear; but do 
not let them boil, as that will make the stalks come ofl'. 
When they are tolerably cool, put them in jelly-glasses 
with the stalks downwards. White raspberries must 
be preserved in the same manner, only observing, that 
instead of red you use white-currant juice. 
Strawberries. 

Gather tlie finest scarlet strawberries you can, 
with the stalks on, before they are too ripe. Lay them 
separately on a china dish, then beat and sift twice 

No. • 1. 2 K 



258 PRESERVING 

their weight of double-refined sugar, and strew it over 
tlieni. Take a few ripe scarlet strawberries, crush 
them, and put them into a jar, with their weight of 
donble-refmed sugar beat small. Cover them close, 
and let them stand in a kettle of boiling water till they 
are soft, and the syrup is extracted from them. Tlien 
strain tlieni through a muslin rag into a preserving 
pan, boil and skim it well, and when it is cold, put in 
your whole strawberries, and set them over the lire 
till they are milk warm. Then take them off, and let 
them stand till they are quite cold. Set them on again, 
and make them a little hotter, and do so several times 
till they look clear ; but do not let them boil, as that 
v\ ill bring off their stalks. When the strawberries are 
cold, put them into jelly-glasses, with the stalks down- 
wards, and fill up your glasses with the syrup. Put 
over them papers dipped in brandy, and tie them down 
close. 

Currants in Bunches. 

Stone them, and tie six or seven bunches together 
with a thread to a piece of split deal about four inches 
long. Put them into the preserving-pan with their 
weight of double-refined sugar beaten and finely sifted, 
and let them stand all night. Tlien take some pippins, 
pare, core, and boil them, and press them down with 
the back of a spoon, but do not stir them. When the 
water is strong of the apple, add to it the juice of a le- 
mon, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it runs quite 
clear. To every pint of your liquor put a pound of 
double-refined sugar, and boil it up to a strong jelly. 
Then put it to your currants, and boil them till they 
look clear. Cover them in the preserving-pan with 
paper till they are almost cold, and then put the bunches 
of currants into your glasses, and fill them up v. ith jelly. 
When they are cold, wet papers in brandy and lay 
over them ; then put over them another paper, and tie 
them up close. This method must be pursued with 
either white or red currants. 

To preserve currants for tarts, you must proceed 
thus : to every pound of currants take a pound of sugar. 



FRUITS. 259 

Pat your sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much 
juice of currants as will dissolve it. When it boils, 
skim it, put in your currants, and boil them till they 
are clear. Put them into a jar, lay brandy-paper 
over them, and tie them down close. 

Gooseberries. 

Get the largest green gooseberries you can, and 
pick off the black eye, but not the stalk. Set them 
over the tire in a pot of water to scald, but do not let 
them boil, as that will spoil them. When they are 
tender, take them up, and put them into cold water. 
Then take a pound and a half of double-refined sugar 
to a pound of gooseberries, and clarify the sugar with 
water, a pint to a pound of sugar. When your syrup 
is cold, put the gooseberries singly into your preserving- 
pan, put the syrup to them, and set them on a gentle 
(ire. Let them boil, but not so fast as to break them ; 
and when they have boiled, and you perceive the sugar 
has entered them, take them off, cover them with 
white paper, and set them by all night. The next 
day take them out of the syrup, and boil the syrup till 
it begins to be ropy. Skim it, and put it to them 
again, set them on a slow fire, and let them simmer 
gently till you perceive the syrup will rope. Then 
take them off, set them by till they are cold, and co- 
ver them with brandy-paper. 

If you preserve red gooseberries, you must proceed 
thus : put a pound of loaf-sugar into a preserving-pan, 
with as much w^ater as will dissolve it, and boil and 
skim it well. Then put in a quart of rough red goose- 
berries, and let them boil a little. Set them by till 
tlie next day, and then boil them till they look clear, 
and the syrup is thick. Then put them into pots, or 
glasses, and cover them with brandy-paper. 

Gooseberries in imitatton of Hopa.. 

Take' the largest green walnut gooseberries you 
can get, and cut them at the stalk end into four quar- 
ters. Ijeave them whole at the blossom end, take out 

22* 



2G0 PRESERVING 

all the seeds, and })ut live or six one in another. Take 
a needleful of strong thread, with a larii^e knot at the 
end ; run the needle throii<j:h the huncr. cf gooseberries, 
tie a knot to-fastcn them together, and they w ill resem- 
ble hops, put cold spring water into your pan, with a 
large handful of vine leaves at the bottom; then three 
or four layers of gooseberries, with plenty of vine leaves 
between every layer, and over the top of your ])an. 
Cover it so that no steam can s;et out, and set them on 
a slow fire. Take them oil' as soon as they are scald- 
ing hot, and let them stand till they are cold. Put 
them into a sieve to drain, and make a thin syrup thus • 
to every pint of water put a pound of common loaf 
sugar, and boil it and skim it well. Wlien it is about 
half cold, put in your gooseberries, let them stand till 
the next day, give them one boil a day for three days. 
Then make a syrup thus : to every pint of w^ater put 
in a pound of fine sugar, a slice of ginger, and a lemon- 
peel cut length vv ays very fine. Boil and skim it well, 
give your gooseberries a boil in it, and Avhen they are 
cold, put them into glasses or pots, lay brandy-paper 
over them, and tie them up close 

DttQiisons. 

Put your damsons into a skillet over the fire, with 
as much water as will cover them. When they have 
boiled, and the liquor is pretty strong, strain it out, and 
add to every pound of damsons wiped clean, a pound 
of single-refined sugar. Put one third of your sugar 
into the liquor, set it over the fire, ;aid when it simmers 
put in the damsons. Let them have one good boil, 
then take them off, and cover them up close for half 
an hour. Then set them on again, and let them sim- 
mer over the fire after turning them. Then take them 
out, put them into a basin, strew^ ail the sugar that 
was left on them, and pom* the hot liquor over them. 
Cover them up, let them stand till the next day, and 
then b3il them up again till they are enough. Then 
take them up, and put them into pots; boil the liquor 
till it jellies, and when it is almost cold, pour it on 



. FRUITS. 261 

lliem. Cover them with paper, tie t)icin close, and set 
them in a dry place. 

JVal}iuts 
There are three different ways of preserving wal- 
nuts, namely, Avliite, black, and green. To preserve 
them white, you must pare them till the white appears, 
and nothing else. As you do them, throw them into 
salt and water, and let them lie there till your sugar is 
ready. Take three pounds of good loaf sugar, put it 
into your preserving-pan, set it over a charcoal tire, 
and put as much water to it as will just wet the sugar 
Let it boil, and have ready ten or twelve whites of 
eggs strained, and beat up to a froth. Cover your 
sugar vvith the froth as it boils, and skim it. Then 
boil and skim it till it is as clear as crystal, and throw 
in your walnuts. Just give them a boil till they are 
tender, then take them out, and lay them in a dish to 
cool. When they are cold, put them into your pre- 
serA'ing-pot, and pour the sugar as warm as milk over 
them. When they are qnite cold tie them up. 

In preserving w^alnuts black, you must proceed thus : 
take those of the smaller kind, put them into salt and 
Avater, and change the water every day for nine days. 
Then put them into a sieve, and let them stand in the 
«*ur till they begin to turn black. Then put them into 
a jug, pour boiling water ovei iliem, and let them 
stand till the nest day. Put them into a sieve to 
drain, stick a clove in each end of the w^alnuts, put 
them into a pan of boiling water, and let them boil 
five minutes. Then take them up, make a thin syrup, 
and scald them in it three or four times a day, till your 
walnuts are black and bright. Then make a thin 
syrup with a few cloves, and a little ginger cut in slices. 
Skim it well, pour in your walnuts, boil them five or 
six minutes, and then put them into jars. Lay brandy- 
paper over them, and tie them down close with a 
bladder. The longer they are kept, the better tliey 
will eat, as time takes off their bitterness 

Green walnnts must be prepared by tiie following 
mode : wipe tiiem very dry, and lay them in salt and 



262 PRESERVING FRUITS. 

water for twenty-four hours. Tlicn take them out, and 
wipe tlicm very clean. Have ready a skillet of boiling 
Avater, throw them in, let them boil a minute, and then 
take them out. Lay them on a coarse cloth, and boil 
your sugar as directed for the white walnuts. Then 
just give them a scald in the sugar, take them up, and 
lay them to cool. Put them into your preserving- 
pot, and proceed as directed for the preserving of white 
walnuts. 

Cuciimbo'S. 
Take the greenest cucumbers, and the most free 
from seeds you can get ; some small to preserve whole, 
and others large to cut into pieces. Put them into 
strong salt and water in a straight mouthed jar, with 
a cabbage-leaf to keep them down. Set them in a 
warm place till they are yellow, then wash them out, 
and set them over the fire in fresh water, with a little 
salt, and a fresh cabbage-leaf over them. Cover the 
pan very close, but take care they do not boil. If they 
are not of a fine green, change your water, and that 
will help them. Then cover them as before, and 
make them hot. When they become of a good green 
take them off the fire, and let them stand till they are 
cold. Then cut the large ones into quarters, take out 
the seed and soft part, then put them into cold water, 
and let them stand two days ; but change the water 
twice every day to take out the salt. Take a pound 
of single-refined sugar, and half a phit of water ; set it 
over the fire, and, when you have skimmed it clean, 
put in the rind of a lemon, and an ounce of ginger with 
the outside scraped oft^ When your syrup is pretty 
thick, take it oft" ; and when cold wipe the cucumbers 
dry, and put them in. Boil the syrup once in tvo or 
three days for three weeks, and strengthen it if neces- 
sary, VVhen you put the syrup to your cucumbers, 
be sure that it is quite cold. Cover them close, and 
set them in a dry place. 



CANDYING, 6fC. 2()3 

SECT. Y. 
DRYING and CANDYING. 

Before you proceed to dry and candy any kind ol 
("mit, let it be first preserved, and so dried in a stove 
or before tlie lire, that all the syrup may be totally ex- 
tracted. When you have boiled your sugar to the 
<:andy height, dip in the fruit, and lay them in dishes 
in your stove to dry; then put them into boxes, and 
keep them in a place where they cannot receive in- 
jury either from heat or damp 

Dried Apricots 

Take as many apricots as will amount to about a 
pound weight, pare and stone them, and then put them 
into a preserving-pan. Pound and sift half a pound of 
double-refined sugar, strew a little among them, and 
lay the rest over them. When they have been twenty- 
four hours in this state, tarn them three or four times 
in the syrup, and then boil them pretty quick till they 
look clear. When they are cold, take them out, and 
lay them on glasses. Then put them into a stove, and 
turn them the first day every half horn', the second 
day every hour, and so on till they are perfectly dry. 
Put them into boxes covered, and set them by for use. 

Dried Peaches. 

Pare and stone some of the finest peaches you can 
get; then put them into a saucepan of boiling water, 
let them boil till they are tender, and ihen lay them 
on a sieve to drain. Put them again into the same 
saucepan, and cover Uiem with their own weight in 
sujrar. Let them lie two or three hours, and then boil 
them till they are clear, and the syrup pretty thick. 
Cover them close, and let them stand all night; scald 
them well, and then take them off to cool. When they 
are quite cold, set them on again till they are tho- 
roughly hot, and continue this for three or four days. 
Then lay them on plates, and turn them every day 
til they are quite dry. 



264 CANDYING, c^C. 

Candied Angelica. 
Cut your angelica in Icngtlis when young, cover i( 
close, and boil it til! it is tender. Then peel it, put it 
in again, and let it sinnner and boil till it is green. 
Then take it up, dry it with a cloth, and to every 
pound of stalks put a pound of sugar. Put your stalks 
into an earthen pan, beat your sugar, strew" it over 
thein, and let them stand two days. Then boil it till 
it is clear and green, and put in a cullender to drain. 
Beat another pound of sugar to powder, and strew it 
over the angelica; then lay it on plates, and le^ it 
stand in a slack oven till it is tlioroughly dry. 

Green Gage Plums dried. 

Make a thin syrup of half a pound of single-refined 
sugar, skim it well, slit a pound of plums down the 
seam, and put them into the syrup. Keep them scald- 
ing hot till they are tender, and take care they are well 
covered with syrup, or they will lose their colour. 
Let them stand all-night, and then make a rich syrup 
thus : to a pound of double-refined sugar put two 
spoonsful of water, skim it well, and boil it almost to a 
candy. When it is cold, drain your plums out of the 
first sp'up, and put them into the thick syrup ; but be 
careful to let tlie syrup cover them. Set them on the 
fire to scald till they look clear, and then put them into 
a china bowl. When they have stood a week, then take 
them out, and lay them on china dishes. Then pnt 
them into a stove, and tarn them once a day till they 
are dry. 

Dried Cheriies. 

Take what quantity of morello cherries yon think 
proper, stone them, and to every pound of cherries put 
a pound and a quarter of fine sugar ; beat and sift it over 
your cherries, and let them stand all night. Then take 
them out of their sugar, and to every pound of sugar 
put two spoonsful of w^ater. Boil and skim it well, 
and tlien pnt in your cherries. Let your sugar boil 
over them, the next morning strain them, and to 
every pcund of syrup put half a pound more sugar. 



CANDYING, ^C. 266 

Boil it till it is a little thicker, then put in your cherries, 
and let them boil geutl}^. The next day strain them, 
put them into a stove, and turn- them every day till 
tiiey are dry. 

Dried Damsons. 
Gather your damsons when the} are full ripe, 
spread them on a coarse cloth, and set them in a very 
cool oven. Let them stand a day or two, and if they 
are not then properly dried, put them in for a day or 
two longer. Then take them out, lay them in a dry 
place, and they will eat lik<; -^resh plums, though even 
in the midst of winter. 

Candied Cassia. 
Take as much of the powder of brown cassia as will 
lie upon a half-crown, with as much musk and amber- 
gris as you think proper. Pound them both well to- 
gether. Then take a quarter of a pound of sugar, boil 
it to a candy height, put in your powder, and mix it 
well together. Pour it into saucers, which nuist be 
buttered very thin, and when cold, it will slip out. 

Lemon and Orange Peels Candied. 

Cut your lemons or oranges long- ways, take out all 
>ie pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty strong salt 
and hard water for six days. Then boil them in a 
large quantity of spring water till they are tender. 
Take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve to drain. 
Then make a thin syrup of fine loaf sugar, a pound to 
a quart of water. Put in your peels, and boil them 
half an hour, or till they look clear, and have ready a 
thick syrup, made of fine loaf sugar, with as much wa- 
ter as will dissolve it. Put in your peels, and boil 
them over a slow fire till you see the syrup candy about 
the pan and peels. Then take them out, and grate 
fine sugar all over them. Lay them on a hair sieve 
to drain, and set them in a stove, or before the fire to 
dry. 

Candied Ginger. 

Take an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound 
of loaf sugar beat fine, and put them into a preserving 

N'j. 12. 2 r. 



266 CANDYING, ^C. 

pan, with as much water as will dissolve the siigai 
Stir them well together over a very slow fire till tin 
sugar begins to boil. Then stir in another pound (rl 
sugar beat fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick. 
Then take it oil' the fire, and drop it in cakes upon 
earthen dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry, and 
they will be hard and brittle, and look white. 

Candied Ilorehound. 

Let your horehound be boiled in water till the ju:ce 
is quite extracted. Take your sugar, and boil it up ic 
a feather, then add your juice to tlie sugar, and lei it 
boil till it is again the same height. Stir it with a 
spoon against the sides of your sugar-pan, till it begins 
to grow thick, then |X)ur it out into a paper case that 
is dusted with fine sugar, and cut it into squares. You 
may dry the horehound, and put it into the sugar finely 
powdered and sifted. 

Candied Almond Cake, or Gateau JS'oga. 

Take some fine powder sugar, put it into your 
stew-pan, aud stir it over the fire till tiie sugar is near- 
ly dicsolved ; have ready half a pound of almonds sliced 
and parched. Put theni into the sugar you have over 
the fire, and keep stirring them well about till your 
almonds are a nice brown ; take a jelly-mould or stew- 
pan, oil it well, and put your almonds into it ; keep the<- 1> 
well up to the sides, and when cold, you may turn I't 
out to cover a burnt cream or boiled custard ; or it 
may be served up just as it is. Sometimes they are 
ornamented like Savoy cakes, and look veiy handsome 

Candied Rhubarb Cakes. 

Take an oimce of rhubarb in powder, an ounce of 
fine powder-ginger, eighteen ounces of sugar, three 
drops of oil of peppermint; boil your sugar up to a 
feather, then mix all the ingredients, stirring them till 
it begins to grain. Have ready a square paper case, 
sugared with fine p wdcr sugar : when cold, cut them 
in square pieces. 



CANDYING, c^C. 267 

Compote of Crude Orange. 

Cut the upper part of six sweet oranges in such a 
ii.anrier as to put them together as if tliey ^^ere Avhole. 
Pierce the pulps in several phxces witli a httle knife, 
and put in some fine powder sugar; then replace the 
pieces you have cut off, and s-erve them up in v«ur 
desert. 

Compote of Jtpplci^ 

Take a dozen of goklen pippins, pare them nicely, 
and take the core out with a small penknife ; put them 
into some water, and let them he well scalded ; then 
take a little of the water with some sugar, and a few 
apples Avhich may be sliced into it, and let the whole 
boil till it comes to a syrup : then pom* it over your 
pippins, and garnish them with dried cherries and le- 
mon-peel cnt fine. You must take care that your pip- 
pins are not split. 

Compote of Pears. 

Let what quantity of pears you wish to be nicely 
scalded till soft, then take them out, pare them, and 
tlirow them into cold water to harden; take some su- 
gar, cinnamon, red wine, and cloves, and put your 
pears into it; let them gently boil till a syrup : you 
may add some cochineal to give tliem a fine colour. 

Compote of Quinces. 

These may be cut in quarters and done in the same 
way as the apples, taking care that the quinces are 
done quite tender before you put them into the sugar. 
Let the syrup of all your compotes be thick before you 
dish them up. 

Orange i'hips. 

Get some of the best Seville oranges you can, pare 
them at least about a quarter of an inch broad, and if 
you can keep the parings whole, they will have a pret- 
ty effect. When you have pared as many as you in- 
tend, put them into salt and spring water for a day or 
two ; then boil them in a large quantity of spring w atei 

till they are tender, and drain them on a sieve. Havtf 
23 



268 CANDYING, ^-C. 

ready a thin syrup made of a quart of water, and a 
poinid of snc^ar. Boil tlicm a few at a time, to keep 
ilieiii from breaking till tiicy look ck'ar. Then put them 
into a syrup made of fine loaf sugar, with as much 
water as will dissolve it, and boil them to a candy 
iieight. When you take tliem up, lay them on a sieve, 
and grate double-refmed sugar over them. Then put 
them in a «tovc, or before the Are to dry. 

Orange Marmalade. 

Get the clearest Seville oranges you can, cut them 
in two, take out all the pulp and juice into a basin, 
and pick all the skins and seeds out of it. Boil the 
rinds in hard water till they are tender, and change the 
water two or three times while they are boiling. Then 
pound them in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice 
and pulp. Then put them in tlie ])reserving-pan with 
double its weight of loaf sugar, and set it over a slow 
fire. Boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into 
pots, cover it with brandy-paper, and tie it close 
down. 

Apricot Marmalade. 

Apricots that are too ripe for keeping best answer 
this purpose. Boil them in syrup till they will mash, 
and then beat them in a marble mortar to a paste. 
Take half their weightof loaf sugar, and add just water 
enough to dissolve it. Boil and skim it till it looks 
clear, and the syrup like a fine jelly. Then put it in- 
to your sweetmeat glasses, and tie it up close. 

Quince Marmalade 

These must likewise be full ripe for the purpose ol 
making marmalade. Pare them, and cut them into 
quarters; then take out the cores, and put the fruit 
into a saucepan. Cover them with the parings ; nearly 
fill the saucepan with spring-water, cover it close,- and 
let them stew over a slow fire till they are soft and of 
a pink colour. Then pick out the quinces from the pa- 
rings, and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar, 
fake their weiglit of fine loaf sugar, put as much 



CANDYING, i^C. 269 

water to it as will dissolve it, and boil and skim it veil 
Then put in yoar quinces, boil tlieni gently three quar- 
ters of an hour, and keep stirring tiiem all the time. 
When it is cold, put it into flit pots, tie it down close, 
and set it by for use. 

Transparent Marmalade. 

Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take 
out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the skins 
and seeds. Put the peels into a little salt and water, 
and let them stand all night. Then boil them in a 
good quantity of spring water till they are tender, cut 
them in very thin slices, and put them into the pulp. 
To every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half 
of double-refined sugar, finely beaten, and boil them 
together gently for twenty minutes ; but if not clear 
and transparent in that time boil it five or six minutes 
longer. Keep stirring it gently all the time, and take 
care you do not break the slices. When it is cold, put 
it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie them down 
tight with brandy-paper and a bladder over them. 

Burnt Almonds. 

Take two pounds of almonds, and put them into 
a stew-pan, with the same quantity of sugar, and a 
pint of water. Set them over a clear coal fire, and 
let them boil till you find the almonds crack. Then 
take them off, and stir them about till they are quite 
dry. Put them in a wire sieve, and sift all the sugar 
from them. Put the sugar into the pan again with a 
little water, and give it a boil. Then pour fom* spoons- 
ful of cochineal to the sugar to colour it, put the almonds 
into the pan, and keep stirring them over the fire till 
they are quite dry. Then put them into a large glass, 
and they will keep all the year. 

Raspberry Paste. 

Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half, and 
put the juice to the other half Boil them a quarter 
of an hovu*, put to them a pint of red currant juice, 



270 ORNAMENTS IK 

and let ilicm boil all together till your raspberr es are 
enough. Then put n pound and a half of double-refincd 
sugar into a pau, \/ith as much water as will dis- 
solve it, and boil it to a sugar again. Put in your rasp- 
berries and ju'ce, give them a scald, and pour it into 
glasses or plates. T!»cn ])ut them into a sto\'e, and 
turn tliem at times till they are thoroughly dry. 

Currant Paste. 
Currant paste maybe either red or white, accord- 
ing to the colour of the currants you use. Strip your 
ciu'rants, put a little juice to them to keep them from 
burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair 
sieve. Then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint 
of juice put a pound and a half of double-refmcd sugar 
pounded and sifted. Shake in your sugar, and when 
it is melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in the same 
manner as the raspberry paste, and turn it into any 
form you like best. 

Gooseberry Paste. 
Take some full grown red gooseberries, just on the 
turn for ripening, cut them in halves, and pick out all 
the seeds. Have ready a ])int of cui rant juice, and 
boil your gooseberries in it till they are tender. Put a 
pound and a half of double-refmed sugar into your pan, 
with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to 
sugar again. Then put all together, and make it 
scalding hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it into your 
plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed. 



SECT. VI. , 
ORNAMENTS in CONFECTIONARY. 

Artificial Fruit. 

At a proper time of the year, take care to save the 
stalks of the fruit, with the stones to them. Get some 
tins neatly made in the shape of the fruit you intend 
to imitate, leaving a hole at the top, to put in the stone 



CONFECTIONARY. 27J 

and stalk. They must be so contrived as to open in 
the middk^ to take out the fruit, and there must also 
l)e made a frame of wood to fix them in. Great care 
must be taken to make tlie tins very smooth in tlie in- 
side, otherwise their roughness will mark the fruit; 
and that they be made exactly of the shape of the fruit 
that they are intended to represent. Being prepared 
with your tins, proceed thus : take two cow-heeis, and 
a calf's foot, boil them in a gallon of soft water till they 
are all boiled to rags, and when 3'ou have a full quart 
of jelly, strain it through a sieve. Then put it into a 
saucepan, sweeten it, put in a lemon-peel perfumed, 
and colour it like the fruit you intend to imitate. Stir 
all together, give it a boil, and fill your tins : then put 
in the stones and the stalks just as the fruit grows, and 
when the jelly is quite cold, open your tins, and put 
on the bloom, which may be done by carefully dusting 
on powder-blue. Keep them covered to prevent the 
dust getting to them; and to the eye, art will be an 
excellent substitute for nature 

Jl Dish of Snow 

Take twelve large apples, and put them into a 
saucepan with cold water. Set them over a slow fire, 
and \vhen they are soft, pom* them into a hair sieve ; 
take off" the skins, and put the pulp into a basin. Then 
beat the whites of twelve eggs to a very strong frolii; 
heat and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, and 
strew it into the eggs. Work up the pulp of your ap- 
ples to a strong froth, then beat them altogether till 
they are like a stiff snow. Lay it upon a china dish, 
and heap it up as high as you can. Set round it green 
knots of paste,, in imitation of Chinese rails, and stick 
a sprig of myrtle Ji\ the middle of the dish. 

Moonshine. 

Ge t a piece of tin the shape of a half moon, as deep 

as a half pint basin, and one in the shape of a large 

stai , and two or three lesser ones. Boil two calf "s 

feet in gallon of water till it comes to a quart, then 

23* 



272 ORNAMEISTJ3 IN 

strain it ofl', and wlicn cokl, sUini oil the f;it. Take 
half the jelly, and sweeten it ^^ itli sugar to your palate. 
Beat up the whites of four eggs, stir all together over 
a slow hre till it boils, and then run it through a flan- 
nel h;ig till clear. Put it in a clean saucepan, and take 
an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, and beat very 
line in a marble mortar, with two spoonsful of rose- 
water, and two of <>range-ilo^^er \\ater. Then strain 
it through a coarse cloth, mix it with the jelly, put in 
four spoonsful of thick cream, and stir it altogether till 
it boils. Then have ready the dish you intend it for, 
lay the tin in the shape of a half moon in the middle, 
and the stars round it. Lay little weights on the tins, 
to keep them in the place where you put them. Then 
pour the moonshine into the dish ; and when it is quite 
cold, take out the tins. Then fill up the vacancies 
with clear calf s [ect jelly. You may colour your 
moonshine with cochineal and chocolate, to make it 
look like the. sky, and your moon and stars ^^ill then 
shine the brighter. Garnish it with rock candy sweet- 
meats. 

Float lui^ Island. 

Take a soup-dish of a size proportioned to what 
vou intend to make : but a deep glass set on a china 
dish will answer the purpose better. Take a quart of 
the thickest cream you can get, and make it pretty 
sweet with fine sugar. Pour in a gill of sack, grate 
in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream till 
it is of a thick froth : then carefully pour the thin from 
the froth into a dish. Cut a French roll, or as many 
as you want, as thin as you can, and put a layer of it 
as light as possible on the cream, then ^ layer of cur- 
rant jelly, then a very thin layer of roll, then hartshorn 
jelly, then French roll, and over that whip your froth 
which you saved off the cream, well milled up, and lay 
it on the top as high as you can heap it. Ornament 
the rim of your dish with figures, fruits, or sweetmeats, 
as you please. This looks very pretty on the middle 
of a table, with candles rornid it; and you may make 



COi^FECTIONARY. 273 

it of as many different colours as you fancy, acccrdlng 
to what jellies, jams, or sweetmeats you have. 

Desert Island. 
Take a lump of paste and form it into a rock three 
inches broad at the top ; then colour it, and set it in 
the middle of a deep chin i dish. Set a cast figure on 
it witli a crown on its he id, and a knot of rock candy 
at its feet : then make a roll of paste an inch thick, 
and stick it on the inner edge of the dish, two parts 
round. Cut eight pieces of eringo-roots, about three 
inches long, and fix them upright to the roll of paste 
on the edge. Make grave . walks of shot comfits roimd 
tiie dish, and set smaU figures in them. Roll out some 
paste, and cut it open like Chinese rails. Bake it, and 
fix it on either side of the gravel walks with gum, and 
form an entrance where the Chinese rails are, with 
two pieces of eringo-root for pillars. 

Chinese Temple, or Obelisk. 
Take an ounce of fine sugar, half an ounce of but- 
ter, and four ounces of fine flour. Boil the sugar and 
butter in a little water, and when it is cold, beat up an 
egg, and put it to the water, sugar, and butter. Mix 
it with the flour, and make it into a very stifl" paste ; 
then roll it as thin as possible, have a set of tins in the 
form of a temple, and put the paste upon them. Cut 
it in what form you please upon the separate parts of 
your tins, keeping them separate till baked ; but take 
care to have the paste exactly the size of the tins. 
When you have cut all these parts, bake them in a 
slow oven, and when cold, take them out of the tins, 
and join the parts with strong isinglass and water with 
a camel's hair brush. Set them one upon the other, 
as the forms of the tin moulds will direct you. If you 
cut it neatly, and the paste is rolled very thin, it will 
be a beautiful corner for a large table. If you have 
obelisk moulds, you may make them the same way 
for an opposite corner. Be careful to make the pillars 
stronger than the top, that tl.ey may not be crushed 
by their weight 

"^No. 12 w 2 M 



274 PICKLING. 



These ornamental decorations in confectionary are 
calculated to embellish grand entertainments, and it is 
certain they have all a very pleasing efl'ect on the sight; 
out their beauties depend entirely on the abilities and 
ingenuity of the artist. 



CH.l PTER XXI. 

P IC K L J JS-G. 

PICKLES are essentially necessary to be kept in 
all houses, but particularly such as contain large fami- 
lies; nor will the prudent and judicious housekeeper 
be ^vithout them ; and this for two reasons ; first, to 
avoid the inconvenience of sending for tliem when 
wanted ; and secondly, from being assm*ed that they are 
done as they ought to be, that is, that they shall have 
their proper colour without that artifice which is likely 
to be prejudicial to those who use them. It is too 
common a practice to make use of brass utensils in 
order to give the pickles a fine green ; but this perni- 
cious custom is easily avoided by heating the liquor, 
and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth before 
you pour it on the articles to be pickled. It is usual 
to put pickles into earthen jars, but stone jars are by 
flir the best, for though they are more expensive in the 
first purchase, they will be found nuich cheaper in the 
end; the earthen vessels are oorous, and will conse- 
quently admit the air, and spoil the pickles, especially 
if they stand any length of time ; but this w ill not be 
the case w^ith stone jars. Remember, that when you 
take any pickle out of your jars, be sure never to do it 
with your fingers, as that will spoil the pickle; but 
always make use of a spoon, which you should keep 
entirely for that purpose. 

Having mentioned these necessary and general ob- 
servations relative to pickling, ve shall now proceed 
to particulars, beginning with 

Mangoes. 
The proper encumbers to be used for this purpo?* 



PICKLING. 275 

are those of tlie largest sort, which must be taken from 
the vines before tliey are too ripe, or yellow at the ends. 
Cut a piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with 
an apple-scraper or a tea-spoon. Then ])nt them into 
very strong salt and water for eight or nine days, or 
till they are yellow. Stir them well two or three times 
every day, and put them into a pan with a large quan- 
tity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat 
a little roach alum very fine, and put it into the salt and 
water they came out of Pour it on your cucumbers, 
and set them on a very slow fire for four or five hours 
till they are pretty green. Then take them out, and 
drain them in a hair sieve, and when they are cold, 
put to them a little horse-radish, then mustard-seed, 
two or three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few 
green cucumbers sliced in small pieces, then horse- 
radish, and the same as before-mentioned, till you have 
filled them. Then take the piece you cut out, and 
sew it on with a large needle a id thread, and do all 
the rest in the same manner. liuve ready the follow- 
ing pickle: to every gallon of vinegar put an ounce of 
mace, the same of cloves, two ounces ofshced ginger, 
the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, three ounces 
ojf mustard-seed tied np in a bag, four ounces of garlic, 
and a stick of horse-radish cut iu slices. Boil them 
five minutes in the vinegar, then pour it upon your 
pickles, tie them down close, and keep them for use. 

Girkins, 

Put a quantity of spring water into a large earthen 
pan, and to every gallon put two pounds of salt. Mix 
them well together, and throw in five hundred girkins. 
When they have been two hours in the salt and water, 
take them out, and put them to drain ; and when they 
are thoroughly dry, put them into your jar. Take a gal- 
lon of the best white wine vinegar, and put it hi a 
saucepan, with half an qunt^.e of eioves and mace, ^fl 
ounce of £^ll§pice., the saiue quantity of mustard-seed, a 
^tick o,f l^or^e.-rad^sh cut in slices, six bay-leaves, twp 
or three races of ginger, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a 



276 PICKLINO. 

handful of salt. Boil up all together, and pour it over 
tlie girkins. Cover them close down, and let them 
stand twenty-four hours. Then put their* into your 
saucepan, and let them simmer o\ er the hre till the} 
are green; but be careful not to let them boil, as that 
will spoil them. Then put them into your jar, and 
cover them down close till they are cold. Then tie 
them over with a bladder and a piece of leather, ai^d 
put thein in a dry cold place. 

Cucumbers. 

For the purpose of pickling, choose the smallest 
cucumbers you can get, and be careful they are as free 
from spots as possible. Put them into strong salt and 
water for nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, 
and stir them twice a day, at least, or they will grow 
soft. When they are perfectly yellow, pour the Avater 
from them, and cover them withplenty of vine leaves. 
Set your water over the tire, and Avhen it ]x)iis, pour 
it upon them, and set them u{X)n the hearth to keep 
warm. Wlien the water is nearly cold, make it boiling 
hot again, and pour it upon them. 'Proceed in this 
manner till you perceive they are of a fine green, which 
they will be in foiu' or five times. Be careful to keep 
them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth and 
dish over the top to keep in the steam, which will 
help to green them the sooner. When they are 
greened, put them into a hair sieve to drain, and then 
make the following pickle for them : to every two 
quarts of white wine vinegar, put half an ounce of 
mace, or ten or twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut 
into slices, the same of black pepper, and a handfiil ol 
salt. Boil them all together for five minutes, pour it 
hot upon your pickles, and tie them down with a blad- 
der for use. 

Cucumbers in slices. 

Take some large cucumbers before they are too 
ripe, slice them of the thickness of a crown-piece, and 
put them into a pewter dish. To every dozen of or 



PICKLING. 277 

cumbers slice two large onions thin, and so on till you 
have filled your dish, or have got the quantity you in- 
tend to pickle; but rjniember to put a handliil of salt 
between every row. Then cover them with another 
pewter disli, and let them stand twcnty-foin* hours. 
Tlien put them into a cullender, and when they are 
thoroughly dry, put them into a jar, cover them over 
with white wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours- 
Pour the vinegar from them into a saucepan, and boil 
it with a little salt. Put to the cucumbers a little 
mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger 
sliced, and then pour on them the boiling vinegar. 
Cover them close, and when they are cold, tie them 
down, and they will be ready for use in a few days. 

To Keep Cucumbers. 

Choose those that are small, and not too old; put 
them in jars, and pour over a brine like the French 
beans ; ^^^see p. 281 ;) when you use them take the rind 
•^it, and dress them in the same manner as others. 

Walnuts. 

There are various methods of pickling walnuts, 
»n order to have them of different colours, the number 
ui which are four, namely, black, white, olive colour, 
and green ; each of which we shall describe in their 
proper order. 

To pickle walnuts black, you must gather them be- 
fore the shells get too hard, which may be know^n by 
riuiniiig a pin into them, and always gather them when 
the sun is hot upon them. Put them into strong salt 
and water for nine days, and stir them tw ice a day, 
observing to change the salt and water every three 
days. Then put tliem into a hair sieve, and let them 
stand in the air till they turn black. Put them into 
strong stone jars, and pour boiling vinegar over them ; 
cover them up, and let them stand till they are cold. 
Then give the vinegar three more boilings, pour it each 
time on the walnuts, and let it stand till it is cold be- 
tween every Iwiling. Then t'*^ *J»pm down with papei 



278 PICKLING. 

and a bladder over tliem, and let tlieni s'and two 
months. Wiien that time has elapsed, take them out 
of the vinei;ar, and make a pickle for them thus : to 
every two (piarts of vinegar ])ut half an ounce of mace, 
and the same of cloves ; of black pepper, Jamaica pep- 
jH-r, long |)i'pper, and ginger, an ounce each, and two 
o:mccs of common salt. Boil it ten minutes, then 
pour it hot on your walnuts, tie them close down, and 
cover tlieni with paper and a bladder. 

To pickle walnuts \chite, you must proceed thus . 
liaving procured a sulHcient cpiantity of walnuts, of the 
largest size, and taken the before-mentioned precaution 
that the shells are not too hard, pare them very thin 
till the white appears, and throw them into spring 
wntcr and a handfid of salt as you do thein. Let 
ihem lie in the water six hours, and put a thin board 
upon them to keep them under the water. Then set 
a stew-pan with some clean spring water on a char- 
coal fire. Take your nuts out of the water, put them 
into the stew^-pan, and let them simmer four or five 
minutes, but be careful they do not boil. Then have 
ready a pan of spring \vater with a handful of salt in it, 
and stir it till the salt is melted ; then take your nuts 
out of the stew-pan with a wooden ladle, or spoon, 
and put them into the cold water and salt. Let them 
stand a quarter of an hour, with the board lying on 
Uiom to keep them down as before ; for if they are not 
Kept tmder the liquor they will turn black. Then lay 
(.hem on a cloth, and put them into yorn- jar, with 
some blades of mace antl nutmeg sliced thin. Mix 
vo'ir spice between your nuts, and pour distilled vihct 
gar over them. When your jar is properly filled with 
nits, pour mutton fat o\'er them, tie them down close 
wirli a bladder and leather, and set thein in a dr^j 
phu'e. 

Walnuts to be pickled of an alive colour, must l>t 
managed thus: having gathered your walnuts, with 
the same precautions as before directed, put thorn into 
stronff ale allerjar, and tie them down inider a bladder 
Mu\ paper to kei^po'if t';o [\\-. l<et tluin stand twelve 



PICKLING. 279 

months, then take them out of the al tgar, and make 
for them a pickle c f strong allegar. To every quart, 
put half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, the snmeof long 
pepper, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of 
cloves, a head of garlic, and a little salt. Boil them 
altogether five or six minutes, and then pour it upon 
your walnuts. As it gets cold, boil it again three times, 
and pour it on tliein. Then tie them down with a 
bladder, and paper over it; and if your allegar is good, 
they will keep several years, without either turning 
colour or growing soft. You may make very good cat- 
sup of the allegar that comes froii^. the walnuts, by add- 
ing a pound of anchovies, an ounce of cloves, the same 
of long and black pepper, a head of garlic, and half a 
pound of common salt, to every gallon of allegar. Boil 
it till it is half reduced, and skim it well. Then bot- 
tle it for use, and it will keep a great while. 

To pickle walnuts green, proceed as follows : make 
use of the large double or French walnuts, gathered 
!)efore the shells are hard. Wrap them singly in vine 
leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bottom of yonr jar, 
and nearly fill it with your walnuts. Take care they 
do not touch one another, and put a good many leaves 
over them. Then fill your jar with good allegar, cover 
them close that the air cannot get in, and let them 
stand for three w^eeks. Then pour the allegar from 
them, put fresh leaves at the bottom of another jar, 
take out your walnuts, and wrap them separately in 
fresh leaves as quick as possibly you can. Put them 
into your jar with a good many leaves over tliem, and 
(ill it with white wine vinegar. Let them stand three 
weeks, pour off your \inegar, and wrap them up as 
before, with fresh leaves at the bottom and top of your 
jar. Takefresli white wine vinegar, put salt in it till 
it u'ill bear an c^g, and add to it mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
and garlic. Boil it about eight minutes, and then pom* 
it on your walnuts. Tie them close with a paper and 
a bladder, and set them by for use. Be careful to keep 
them covered, and when you take any out for use, if 

the whole should not be wanted, do not put those lefl 
24 



280 PICKLIWG. 

again into the jar, for by that means the vhole may 
be spoiled. 

Red Cabbage. 
Slice your cabbage crossways, then put it on an 
earthen dish, and sprinkle a liandful of salt over it. 
Cover it with anotiier dish, and let it stand twenty- 
four liours. Then put it into a cullender to drain, and 
lay it into your jar. Take a sufficient quantity of white 
wine vinegar to cover it, a few cloves, a little mace, 
and allspice. Pat them in whole, with a little cochi- 
neal bruised fine. Then boil it up, and pour it either 
hot or cold upon your cabbage. If the former, let it 
stand till cold, and then tie it down for use. 

Onions. 

Take a sufficient number of the smallest onions 
you can get, and put them into salt and water for nine 
days, observing to change the water e\'ery day. Then 
put them into jars, and poiu' fresh boiling salt and wa- 
ter over them. Let them stand close covered till they 
are cold, then make some more salt and water, and 
pour it boiling hot upon them. When it is cold, put 
your onions into a hair sieve to drain, then put them 
into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill them up with dis- 
tilled vinegar. Put into every bottle a slice or twooi. 
ginger, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of sweet oil, 
(which will keep the onions white,) a bay-leaf, and as 
much salt as will lay on a sixpence. Cork them well 
up, so that no air can get to them, and set them in a 
dry place. 

SanipJw^e. 

Take what quantity of green samphire you think 
proper, put it into a clean pan, throw over it t ao or 
three handsful of salt, and cover it with spring water. 
When it has lain twenty-foiu' hours, put it into a clean 
saucepan, throw in a handfiil of salt, and cover it with 
good Wnegar. Cover the pan close, set it over a slow 
fire, let it stand till it is just green and crisp, and then 
take it off" at that moment; for should it remain till it 
is soft, it vvill be totally sj)oiled. Put it into your 



PJCKLINC. ^?^. 

()ickIing-pot, and cover it close. When it n-; quite col-.i 
tie it down witii a bladtler aud leather, and set it h) 
for use. Sampliire may be preserved ail the year by 
keeping it in very strong brine of salt a:^d water, and 
jnst before yon want to use it, put it for a %w minutes 
into some oftlie best vinegar. 

Kidney Beans. 
Take some young small beans, and put them into 
strong salt and v/ater for three days, stirring them two 
or three times each day. Then put them into a pan 
with vine leaves both imder and over them, and pour 
on tliem the same water they came out of. Cover 
them close, and set them over a very slow fire till they 
are of a fine green. Then put them into a hair sieve 
to drain, and make a pickle for them of white ^N'ine 
vinegar, or fine ale allegar. Boil it five or six minutes 
with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, and a race or two 
of ginger sliced. Then pour it hot upon the beans, 
and tie them clown with a bladder and paper. 

To preserve French Beans. 
Take any quantity of French beans you think fit, 
choosing those that are tender and least stringy ; hav- 
ing cut off the ends, boil them a quarter of an hoiu', 
and shift them into cold water; then dry them, and put 
them into the jars in ^^hich you mean to keep them. 
Pour over your brine till it rises to the rim of the jar, 
then put over some butter that has been lieated and is 
half cold, which will congeal upon the French beans, 
and keep them from the air. If you do not like to put 
!)ntter you must put mutton suet in the same way. 
To make the brine, you must take two thirds water 
and one of vinegar; add several pounds according to 
the quantity of brine you would make, a pound to three 
pints. Set it over the fire till the salt is melted ; let 
it settle, and before you use it pour it off clear. 

Barberries. 
Take a quantity of barberries not over ripe, pick 
off the leaves and dead stalks, and put them into jars, 
No. 12. 2 N 



282 PICKLING. 

with a large quantity of strong salt and water, and tie 
tiieni down with a bladder. When you see a scum 
rise on the barberries, put thcui into fresh salt and wa- 
ter ; but tiiey need no vinegar, their own natural sharp- 
ness being fully sufficient to preserve tiiem. Cover 
them close, and set them by for use. 

Beet Roots. 
Boil the roots till they are tender, and take off the 
skins, cut tliem in slices, gimp them in the shape of 
wheels, or what other form you ])lease, and put them 
into a jar. Take as much a inegar as you think will 
cover them, and boil it with a little mace, a race of 
ginger sliced, and a few small pieces of horse-radish. 
Pour it hot upon the roots, and tie them down close. 

Radish Pods. 
Gather your radish pods when they are quite 
young, and ]3ut them into salt and water all night; tlie 
next day boil the salt and water they were laid in, pour 
it upon the pods, and cover your jar close to keep in 
the steam. When it is nearly cold, make it boiling hot, 
and pour it on again, and continue doing so till the 
pods are quite green. Then put them into a sieve to 
drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vine- 
gar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horse- 
radish. Pour it boiling hot upon your pods, and when 
it is almost cold, make your vinegar twice as hot as 
before, and pour it upon them. Tie them down with 
a bladder, and set them in a dry place. 

CauliJIowers. 
Take the whitest and closest cauliflowers you can 
get, break the flowers into bunches, and spread them 
on an earthen dish. Lay salt all over them, and let 
them stand for three days to draw out all the water. 
Then put them into jars, and pour boiling salt and 
water upon them. Let them stand all night, then 
drain them in a hair sieve, and put them into glass jars. 
Fill up your jars with distilled vinegar, and tie them 
dose down. 



PICKLING. 28o 

Artichoke Bottoms. 

Boil yonr artichokes till you can pull off all the 
leaves, and thoroughly clear the bottoms. Put them 
into salt and water for an hour, then take them ont, 
and lay thein on a cloth to drain. When they are dry, 
put them into large wide-mouthed glasses, with a lit- 
tle mace and sliced nutmeg between, and lill them with 
distilled vinegar. Cover them witii mutton flit melted, 
and tie them down with leather and a bladder. 

To jjreserve Artichokes. 

They may be quartered, the chokes taken out, and 
done exactly the same as the French beans. 

JVasturtiuins. 

The most proper time for gathering the berries is 
soon after the blossoms are gone off. Put them into 
cold salt and water, and change the water for three 
days successively. Make your pickle of white wine 
vinegar, mace, nutmeg sliced, shalots, pepper-corns, 
salt, and horse-radisli. Make your pickle pretty strong, 
but do not boil it. When you have drained your ber- 
ries, put them into a jar, pour the pickle to them, and 
tie them down close. 

Mushrooms. 

Take the smallest mushrooms you can get, put 
them into spring water, and rub them with a piece of 
ne^v flannel dipped in salt. Throw them into cold wa- 
ter as you do them, which will make them keep their 
(^oloin*; then put them into a saucepan, and throw a 
handful of salt over them. Cover them close, and set 
them over the fire foiu' or five minutes, or till you find 
tliey are thoroughly hot, and the liquor is drawn out 
from them. Then lay tiiem between two clean cloths 
till they are cold, put them into glass bottles, and fill 
them up with distilled vinegar. Put a blade or two of 
mace and a tea-spoonful of sweet oil into every bot- 
tle. Cork them up close, and set tliem in a cool place. 

If you have not any distilled vinegar, you mav use 

24* •- . ./ 



284 PICKLING. 

white wine vinegar, or ale allcgar will do ; bu . inu&l 
be boiled with a little mace, salt, and a few tehees of 
ginger; and it must stand till it is cold before you pour 
it on your mushrooms. 

Mushroom Catsup. 

Take a quantity of the full grown flaps of mush- 
rooms, crush them well with your hands, and then 
strew a quantity of salt all over them. Let them stand 
all night, and the next day put tliem into stew-pans. 
Set them in a quick oven for twelve hours, and then 
strain them through a hair sieve. To every gallon o^ 
liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black pepper, and gin 
ger, one ounce each, and half a pound of common salt. 
Set it on a slow fire, and let it boil till half the liquor is 
w asted aw^ay. Then put it into a clean pot, and when 
it i« quite cold, bottle it for use. 

Mushroom Powder. 

Get the largest and the thickest buttons you can 
peel them, and cut off the root end, but do not wash 
them. Spread them separately on pew ter dishes, and 
set them in a slow oven to dry. Let the liquor dry 
up into the mushrooms, as that will make the powder 
nuich stronger, and let them continue in the oven till 
you find they will powder. Then beat them in a mar- 
ble mortar, and sift them through a fine sieve, w4th a 
little chyan pepper and pounded mace. Bottle it quite 
clear, and keep it in a dry place. 

JFalnut Catsup. 

Put w^hat quantity of walnuts you think proper into 
jars, cover them with strong cold ale allegar, and tie 
them close for twelve months. Then take out the wal- 
nuts from tlie allegar, and to every gallon of the liquor 
put two heads of garlic, half a pound of anchovies, a 
cpiart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, and 
Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each. Boil 
them all together till the liquor is reduced to half the 
quantity, and the next day bottle it for use. 



PICKLING 285 

Another Method of making Walnut Catsup. 
Take grceii walnuts before the shell is formed, and 
ff ind tliem in a crab-mill, or po^lnd them in a marble 
nortar. Squeeze out the juice through a coarse cloth, 
jind put to every gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, 
the .same quantity of hay-salt, four ounces of Jamaica 
pepper, two of long and two of black pepper; of mace, 
cloves, and ginger, each an ounce, and a stick of horse- 
radish. Boil all together till reduced to half the quan- 
tity, and then put it into a pot. When it is cold, bot- 
ie it close, and in three months it will be lit for use. 

Indian Pickle, or Ficalillo. 
Take a cauliflower, a white cabbage, a few small 
cucumbers, radish-pods, kidney-beans, and a little beet- 
root, or any^other thing commonly pickled. Put them 
into a hair sieve ; and thmv a large handful of salt 
over them. Set them in the sun or before the fire, 
for three days to dry. When all the water is run out 
of them, put them into a large earthen pot in layers, 
and between every laver put a handful of brown mus- 
tard-seed. Then take as much ale allegar as you think 
will cover it, and to every four quarts of allegar put an 
ounce of turmeric. Boil them together, and J3ut it hot 
upon your pickle. Let it stand twelve days upon the 
hearth, or till the pickles are of a bright yellow colour, 
and most of the allegar sucked up. Then take two 
quarts of strong ale allegar, an ounce of mace, the same 
of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and 
the same of long pepper and nutmeg. Beat them all 
together, and boil them ten minutes in the allegar. 
Then pour it upon your pickles, with four ounces of 
peeled garlic. Tie it close down, and set it by for use. 

Asparagus. 

Get the largest asparagus you can, cut off the white 
ends, and wash the green ends in spring water. Then 
put them into a pan of clean water, and let them lie in 
it two or three hours. Put as much spring water into 
a stew-pan as will nearly fill it, and throw in \ large 



286 PICKLING. 

lumtlful of salt. Set it on tlie fire, and when it boils 
put in your grass, not tied up, but loose, and not too 
many at a time, lest you break tlie lieads. Just scald 
them, and no more ; then take tliem out vvitli a broad 
skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. Make your 
pickle with a gallon or more (according to the quantity 
of your asparagus) of white wine vinegar, and an ounce 
of bay salt. Boil it, and put your asparagus into your 
jar. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quar- 
ter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of 
whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the 
asparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth three or 
four times double; and when they have stood a week, 
boil the pickle again. Let them stand a week longer, 
then boil the pickle again, and put it on hot as before. 
When they are cold, cover them close, tie them tight 
down, and keep them in a dry place. 

Parsley pickled Green. 

Make a strong salt and water that will bear an egg, 
and throw into it a large rpiantity of curled parsley. 
Let it stand a week, then take it out to drain, make 
a fi-esh salt and water as before, and let it stand an- 
other week. Then drain it well, put it into spring 
water, and change it three days successively. Then 
scald it in hard water till it becomes green, take it out, 
and drain it quite dry. Boil a quart of distilled vine- 
gar a few minutes, with two or three blades of mace, 
a nutmec^ sliced, and a shalot or two. When it is 
quite cold, pour it on your parsley, with two or three 
slices of horse-radish, and keep it for use. 

Peaches. 
Gather your peaches when tney are at tlie full 
growth, and just before the time of their turning ripe; 
and be sure they are not bruised. Take as miK^h 
spring Avater as you think will cover them, and make 
it salt enough to bear an egg, for which purpose you 
must use an equal quantity of bay and common salt 
Then lay in yom- peaches, and put a thin board ovei 



PICKLING. 287 

the 111 to kccjD tlicm under the water. Wiicn tliey 
ha^ebcen three days in this state, take them out, wipe 
them very carefully with a fine soft cloth, and lay 
them in your jar. Then take as much white wine 
vinegar as will {ill your jar, and to every gallon put one 
pint of the best well made mustard, two or three heads 
of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, and half an ounce 
of cloves, mace, and nutmegs. Mix your pickle well 
together, and pour it over your peaches. Tie them up 
close, and in two months they wh^ be fit for use. 

Nectarines and apricots must be pickled in the same 
manner. 

Golden Pippins. 

Take a number of the finest pippins you can pro- 
cure, free from spots and bruises, put them into a pre- 
serving-pan with cold spring water, and set them on 
a charcoal tire. Keep stirring them with a w^ooden 
spoon till they will peel, but do not let them boil. 
When you have peeled them, put them into the water 
again, with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, 
and a quarter of an ounce of alum. Cover them close 
with a pewter dish, and set them on a charcoal fire 
again, but do not let them boil. Keep turning them 
now and then till they look green, then take them out, 
and lay them on a cloth to cool. When they are quite 
cold, put to them the following pickle : to every gal- 
lon of vinegar put two ounces of mustard-seed, two or 
three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger sliced, 
half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg. Mix your 
pickle well together, pour it over your pippins, and 
coA er them close. 

Gi^apes. 

Let your grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. 
Cut them into small bunches fit for garnishing, and 
put them into a stone jar, with vine-leaves between 
every layer of grapes. Then take spring water, as 
much as will cover them, and put into it a pound of 
bay salt, and as much white salt as will make it bear 
an e^g;. Dry your bay salt, and poimd it before you 



ib8 PICKLING. 

put it in, and that will m;\kc it molt the sooner. PnC 
it into a pot, and boil and skim it well; but take oil 
only the black scum. When it has boiled a quarter 
of an hour, let it stand to cool and settle; and when 
it is almost cold pour the clear Ii(iuor on the grapes, 
l.iy vine-leaves on the top, tie them down close with 
a linen cloth, and cover them witii a dish. Let them 
stand twenty-four hours, then take them out, lay them 
Oil a cloth, cover them over with another, and let them 
di'v between the cloths. Then take two quarts of 
vinegar, a quart of spring water, and a pound of coarse 
sugar. Let it boil a little, skim it very clean as it boils, 
and let it stand till it is quite cold. Dry your jar with 
a cloth, put fresh vine-leaves at the bottom and be- 
tween every bunch of grapes, and on the top. Then 
p'Oti the clear of the pickle on the grapes, lill your jar 
that the pickle may be above the grapes, and having 
tied a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the top 
of the jar, to keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie 
them down with a bladder and leather, and when you 
want them for use, take them out with a wooden spoon. 
Be careful you tie them up again quite close, for, 
should the air get in, they will be inevitably spoiled. 

Red Currants. 
Take a quantity of white wine vinegar, and to 
every quart put in half a pound of Lisbon sugar. 
Then pick tlie worst of your currants and put them 
into this liquor ; but put the best of your currants into 
glasses. Then boil yoiu' pickle with the worst of your 
currants, and skim it very clean. Boil it till it looks 
of a tine colour, and let it stand till it is cold. Then 
strain it through a cloth, wringing it to get all the co- 
lour you can from the currants. Let it stand to coo! 
and settle, then pour it clear into the glasses in a little 
of the pickle, and when it is cold, cover it close with 
a bladder and leather. To every half pound of sugai 
put a quarter of a pound of white salt. 

Caveach, or pickled Mackarel. 
Take half a doz3n of lan^je mackarel, and cut them 



PICKLING. 289 

Into round pieces. Then take an ounce of beaten ^p- 
per, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful 
of salt. Mix your salt and beaten spice together, then 
make two or three holes in each piece, and with your 
fmger thrust the seasoning into the holes. Rub the 
pieces all over with the seasoning, fry them brown in 
oil, and let them stand till they are cold. Then put 
them into vinegar, and cover them with oil. If w^ell 
covered, they will keep a considerable time, and arc 
most delicious eating. 

Smelts. 
At that time of the year when smelts are seasona- 
bly abundant, take a quarter of a peck of them, and 
wash, clean, and gut them. Take half an ounce of 
pepper, the same quantity of nutmegs, a quarter of 
an ounce of mace, half an ounce of saltpetre, and 
a quarter of a pound of common salt. Beat all very 
fine, and lay your smelts in rows in a jar. Betw^een 
every layer of smelts strew the seasoning, with four 
or five-bay leaves. Then boil some red wine, and pour 
over them a sufficient quantity to cover them. Cover 
them with a plate, and w hen cold stop them dow^n 
close, and put them by for use. A few^ make a very 
pretty supper. 

Oysters. 

Take two hundred of the newest and best oysters 
you can get, and be careful to save the liquor in a pan 
as you open them. Cut off the black verge, saving the 
rest, and put them into their ow^n liquor. Then put all 
the liquor and oysters into a kettle, boil them half an 
hour on a gentle fire, and do them very slowly, skim- 
ming them as the scum rises. Then take them off the 
fire, take out the oysters, and strain the liquor through 
a fine cloth. Then put in the oysters again, take out 
a pint of the liquor when hot, and put thereto three 
quarters of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce oi 
cloves. Just give it one boil, then put it to the oys- 
ters, and stir up tlie spices well among them . Then 

put in about a spoonful of salt, thr.?e quarters of a pint 

20 ' ' 



290 PICKLING. 

of the best wliite wine vinegar, ana a quarter of an 
ounce of whole pepper : lei them stand till they are 
cold, and put the oysters, as many as you w ell can, in- 
to tiie barrel. Put in as much liquor as the barrel 
will hold, letting them settle awhile, and they will 
soon be fit to eat. Or you may })ut them in stone jars, 
cover them close with a bladder and leather, and be 
yure they are quite cold before you cover them up. 

In like manner you may do cockles and muscles, 
with this dill'erenceonly, that there is not any tiling to 
be picked off the cockles, and as they are small, the 
before-mentioned ingredients will be sufficient for two 
quarts of muscles ; but take great care to pick out the 
crabs under the tongues, and tlie little pus which grows 
at the roots. ]3o(h cockles and muscles must be wash- 
ed in several w"aters to cleanse them from grit. Put 
them into a stew-pan by themselves, cover them close, 
and wdicn they open, pick them out of the shell, from 
the hquor, and proceed as directed for oysters. 

Jlrtijicial Anchovies. 

These must be made in the following manner 
to a peck of sprats put tvro pounds of common salt, a 
juarter of a pound of bay salt, f^ur of saltpetre, two 
■ounces of prunella salt, and a small quantity of cochineal 
Pound all in a mortar, put them into a stone-pan, a row 
of sprats, then a layer of youM compound, and so on 
alternately to the top. Press them hard down, covei 
them close, let them stand six months, and they will 
be fit for use. Remember that your sprats are as fresh 
as you can possibly get them, and that you neither 
w^ash or wipe them, but do them as they come out of 
the w'ater. 

Ox Palates. 

Wash the palates well with salt and water, ana 
put them into a pipkin with some clean salt and water. 
When they are ready to boil, skim them well, and put 
to them as much pepper, cloves, and mace, as will give 
them a quick taste. When they are boiled tender, 
which will require fov.r or five hours, peel them, and 



COLLARING. 291 

cut them into small pieces, and let them cool. Then 
make the pickle of an equal quantity of white wine 
and vinegar. Boil the pickle, and put in the spices 
tliat were boiled in the palates. When both the pickle 
and palates are cold, lay your palates in a jar, and put 
to them a few bay-leaves, and a little fresh spice. 
Pour tlie pickle over them, cover them close, and keep 
tliem for use. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



COLLAR IJVG 



ONE very material thing to be generally and indis- 
pensably observed in the business of collaring any kind 
of meat is, that you roll it up well, and bind it as tight 
as possible, otherwise when it is cut it will break in 
pieces, and its beauty be entirely lost. Be careful that 
you boil it enough, but not too much, and let it be quite 
cold before you put it into the pickle. After it has 
lain all night in the pickle, take off the binding, put it 
into a dish, and when it is cut, the skin ^vill look clear, 
and the meat have its proper solidity. 

Veniso7i. 
Bone a side of venison, take away all the sinews, 
and cut it into square collars of what size you please. 
It Avill make two or tlu'ee collars. Lard it with fat 
clear bacon, and cut your lard as big as the top of your 
linger, and tliree or four inches long. Season your 
venison with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg. Roll 
up your collars, and tie them close with coarse tape ; 
then put them into deep pots with seasonings at the 
bottoms, some fresh butter, and three or four bay- 
leaves. Put the rest of the seasoning and butter on 
the top, and over that some beef-suet, finely shred and 
beaten. Then cover up your pots with coarse paste, 
and bake them four or five hours. After that take 
tliem out of the oven, and let them stand a little, take 
out your venison, and let it drain well from the gravy* 



292 COLLARING. 

add more butter to the fat, and set it over a gentle lire 
to clarify. Tiien take it off, let it stand a little, and 
skim it well. Make your pots clean, or have pots ready 
lit for each collar. Put a little seasoning and some of 
your clarified butter at the bottom; then put in your 
venison, and fill up your pot with clarified butter, and 
be sure that your butter be an inch above tlie meat. 
When it is thoroughly cold, tie it down with double 
paper, and lay a tile on the top. They will keep six 
or eight months ; and you may, when you use a pot, 
put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come 
out whole. Let it stand till it is cold, stick it round 
\vith bay-leaves, and a sprig at the top, and .serve it 
ap. 

Breast of Veal. 

Bone your veal, and beat it a little. Rub it over 
with the yolk of an Qgg, and strew on it a little beaten 
mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt : a large handful of 
parsley chopped small, with a few sprigs of sweet mar- 
jorum, a little lemon-peel shred fine, an anchovy chop- 
ped small, and mixed with a few crumbs of bread. 
Roll it up very tight, bind it hard with a fillet, and 
wrap it in a clean cloth. Boil it two hours and a half 
in soft water, and when it is enough, hang it up by one 
end, and make a pickle for it, consisting of a pint of 
salt and water, with half a pint of vinegar. Before you 
send it to table, cut off a slice at each of the ends. 
Garnish with pickles and parsley. 

Breast of Mutton. 
Pare off the skin of a breast of mutton, and with a 
sharp knife nicely take out all the bones, but be care- 
fill you do not cut through the meat. Pick all the fat 
and meat off the bones, then grate some nutmeg all 
over the inside of the mutton, a very little beaten mace, 
a little pepper and salt, a few sweet herbs shred small, 
a few crumbs of bread, and the bits of fat picked oft' 
the bones. Roll it up tight, stick a skewer in to hold 
it together, but do it in such a manner that the collar 
i!:a> stand upright in tli<^ dish. Tic a packthread 



cor-1. ARiNG. 293 

across it to hold it together, spit it, then roll the cau'i 
of a breast of veal all round it, and roast it. When it 
has been about an hour at the fire, take off the caul, 
dredge it^vith flour, baste it well with fresh butter, and 
let it be of a fine brown. It will require on the whole, 
an hour and a quarter roasting. For sauce take some 
gravy beef, cut and hack it well, then flour it, and fry 
it a little brown. Pour into your stew-pan some boil- 
ing water, stir it well together, and then fill your pan 
half full of water. Put in an onion, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, a little crust of bread toasted, two or three 
blades of mace, four cloves, some whole pepper, and 
the bones of the mutton. Cover it close, and let it 
stew till it is quite rich and thick. Then strain it, 
boil it up with some truffles and morels, a few mush- 
rooms, a spoonful of catsup, and (if you have them) 
two or three bottoms of artichokes. Put just enough 
salt to season the gravy, take the packthread off the 
mutton, and set it upright in the dish. Cut the sweet- 
bread into four pieces, and boil it of a fine brown, and 
have ready a few forcemeat balls fried. Lay these 
round your dish, and pour in the sauce. Garnish with 
sliced lemon. 

Beef. 
Take a piece of thin flank of beef, and bone it; cut 
off the skin, and salt it with two ounces of saltpetre, 
two ounces of sal prunella, the same quantity of bay- 
salt, half a pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds of 
common salt. Beat the hard salts very fine, and mix 
all together. Turn it every day, and rub it well with 
the brine for eight days; then take it out, 'vvash it, 
and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, 
a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve corns of allspice, 
and a nutmeg beat very fine, with a spoonful of beaten 
pepper, a large quantity of chopped parsley, and some 
sweet herbs shred fine. Sprinkle this mixture on the 
beef, and roll it up very tight ; put a coarse cloth round 
it, and tie it very tight with beggar's tape. Boil it in 
a copper of water, and if it is a large collar, it will 
take six liours boiling, but p small one will be done in 



294 COLLARING. 

five. When it is done, take it out, and put it into a 
press; but if you have not that convenience, put it be- 
tween two boards, with a weight on tlie uppermost, 
and let it remain in that state till it is tlioroughly cold. 
Thm take it out of the cloth, cut it into thin slices, lay 
thein on a dish, and serve them to table. Garnish 
your dish Avith raw parslev. 

Calfs Head. 

Take a calf 's head with the skin on, scald oil" the 
hair, take out all the bones carefully from the neck, and 
lay it some time in warm milk to make it look white. 
Boil the tongue, peel it, cut that and the palate into 
thin slices, and put them and the eyes into the middle 
of the head. Take some pepper, salt, cloves, and 
mace, and beat them fine ; and add to them some grated 
nutmeg, scalded parsley, thyme, savory, and sweet 
marjorum, cut very small. Beat up the yolks of three 
or four eggs, spread them over the head, and then 
strew on the seasoning. Roll it up very tight, tie it 
round with tape, and boil it gently for three hours in 
as much water as will cover it. When you take it out, 
season the pickle with salt, pepper, and spice, and add 
to it a pint of white wine vinegar. When it is cold 
put in the collar, and cut it in handsome slices Avhen 
you send it to table. 

Pis- 
Bone your pig, and then rub it all over with pep- 
per and salt beaten fine, a few sage leaves, and sweet 
herbs chopped small. Roll it up tight, and bind it 
witli a fillet. Fill your boiler with soft water, put in a 
bunch of sweet herbs, a few pepper-corns, a blade or 
two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a handful of salt, and 
a pint of vinegar. When it boils, put in your pig, and 
let it boil till it is tender. Then take it up, and when 
it is almost cold, bind it over again, put it into an 
earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled 
in upon it. Be careful to cover it close down after yon 
cut any for use. 



COLLARING. 296 

Eels. 
When you have thoroiiglily cleansed your eel, cut 
off the head, tail, and iins, and take out the bones. 
Lay it flat on the back, and then grate over it a small 
nutmeg, with two or three blades of mace beat fine, 
and a little pepper and salt, and strew on these a hjind 
lul of parsley shred fine, witli a few sage leaves clio])- 
ped small. Roll it up tight in a cloth, and bind it tight. 
If it is of a middle size, boil it in salt and water three 
quarters of an hour, and hang it up all night to drain. 
Add to the pickle a pint of vinegar, a few pepper-corns, 
and a sprig of sweet niarjorum; boil it ten minutes, 
and let it stand till the next day. Then take off the 
cloth, and put your eels into the pickles. When you 
send them to table, lay them either whole in the plate, 
or cut them in slices. Garnish with green parsley. 
Lampreys may be done in the same manner. 

Mackarel.. 

Gut your mackarel, and slit them down the belly; 
tut off their heads, take out the bones, and be carefal 
not to cut them in holes. Then lay them flat upon 
their backs, season them with mace, nutmeg, pepper, 
and salt, and a handful of parsley shred fine; strew it 
over them, roll them tight, and tie them vrell separate- 
ly in cloths. Boil them gently twenty minutes in 
vinegar, salt, and water, then take them out, put them 
into a pot, and pour the liquor on them, or the cloth 
will stick to the fish. Take the cloth off the fish the 
next day, put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and 
keep them for use. When you send them to table gar- 
nish with fennel and parsley, and put some of the liquor 
under them. 

Salmon. 

Take a side of salmon, cut off the tail, then wash 
the fleshy part well, and dry it with a cloth. Rub it 
over with the yolks of eggs, and make some forcemeat 
witlj what you cut off at the tail end. Take ofl'the skin, 
and put to it some parboiled oysters, a tail or two ol 
lobstiU's, the volks ol" tln-ee or four eg2;s boiled hard, six 



29G POTT I IS G. 

anchovies, a liandful of sweet herbs chopped small, n 
little salt, cloves, luace, imtmeg, pepper, and grated 
bread. AVork all these well togetlier, with yolks of 
eggs, lay it over the lleshy part, and strew on it a little- 
pepper and salt. Then roll it np into a collar, and 
bind it with broad tape. Boil it in water, salt, and 
vinegar, but let the liquor boil before you put it in, 
and tlirow in a bunch of sweet herbs, with some sliced 
ginger and nutmeg. Let it boil gently near two hours, 
and then take it up. Put it into a pan, and wjjcn 
the pickle is cold, put it to your salmon, and let it lay 
in it till wanted. If you cover it with clarified butter, 
it will keep a considerable time. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

P O T T I JV G. 

IN this mode of cookery, be sure to make it a rule, 
that whatever you do it is well covered with clai'ified 
butter before you send it to the oven, tie it close witli 
strong paper, and let it be well baked. When it comes 
from the oven, pick out every bit of skin you can, and 
drain away the gravy, otherwise the article potted 
will be apt to turn soin\ Beat your seasoning very 
fine, and strew it on gradually. Before you put it 
into your pot, press it well, and before you put on your 
clarified butter, let it be perfectly cold. 



SECT. I. 
MEAT and POULTRY. 

Venison. 

Rub your venison all over with red wine; season 
it with beaten mace, pepper and salt ; put it into an 
earthen dish, and pour over ithalf a pint of red wine, 
and a pound of butter, and then send it to the oven. 
If it be a shoulder, put a coarse paste over it, and let 



POTTING. 297 

it lay in the oven all night. When it comes out, pick 
the meat clean from the bones, and beat it in a marble 
mortar, with the fat from yonr gravy. If yon fintl it 
not sufficiently seasoned, add more, with clarified but- 
ter, and keep beating it till it becomes like a fine paste. 
Then press it hard down into your pots, pour clarified 
butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. 

Hares. 
Case your hare, wash it thoroughly clean, then cut 
it up as you would do for eating; put it into a pot, and 
season it with pepper, salt, and mace. Put on it a 
pound of butter, tie it down close, and bake it in a 
bread oven. When it comes out, pick the meat clean 
from the bones, and pound it very fine in a mortar, 
with the fat from your gravy. Then put it close down 
in your pots, and pour over it clarified butter. 

Marble Veal. 

Boil, skin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as possi- 
ble, and beat it well with near a pound of butter, and 
a little beaten mace, till it is like a paste. Have rea- 
dy some veal stewed, and beat in the same manner. 
Then put some veal into potting-pots, thin some tongue 
in lumps over the veal. Do not lay on your tongue 
in any form, but let it be in lumps, and it will then cut 
like marble. Fill your pot close up with veal, press 
it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it. 
Remember to keep it in a dry place, and when you 
send it to table, cut it into slices. Garnish it with 
parsley. 

Tongues 

Take a fine neat's tongue, and rub it well over 
with an ounce of saltpetre and four ounces of brown su- 
gar, and let it lie two days. Then boil it till it is quite 
tender, and take off the skin and side bits. Cut the 
tongue in very thin slices, and beat it in a marble mor- 
tar with a pound of clarified butter, and season it to 
your taste with pepper, salt, and mace. Beat all as 
fine as possible, then press it close down in small pot- 
ting-pots, and pour over them clarified butter. 

No. 13. 2 P 



298 POTTIIfG. 

Geese and Fowls. 

Boil a dried tongue till it is tender; tlien take a 
goose and a large fowl, and bone them. Take a quar- 
ter of an ounce of mace, the same quantity of olives, a 
large nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, 
and beat all well together, add to these a spoonful of 
salt, and rub the tongue and inside of the fowl Avell 
with them. Put the tongue into the fowl, then season 
the goose, and fill it with the fowl and tongue, and the 
goose w ill look as L it was whole. Lay it in a pan 
that will just hold it, melt fresh butter enough to cover 
it, send it to the oven, and bake it an hour and a half. 
Then take out the meat, drain the butter carefully 
from it, and lay it on a coarse cloth till it is cold. 
Tiien take oft' the hard fat from the gravy, and lay it 
before the fire to melt. Put your meat again into the 
pot, and pour your butter over it. If there is not 
enough, clarify more, and let the butter be an inch 
above the meat. It will keep a great while, cut fine, 
and look beautifid, and when you cut it let it be cross- 
ways. It makes a very pretty corner-dish for dinner, 
or side-dish for supper. 

Beef. 

Take half a pound of brown sugar, and an ounce 
of saltpetre, and rub it into tw^elve pounds of beef. 
Let it lie twenty-four hours; then wash it clean, and 
dry it well with a cloth. Season it to your taste with 
pepper, salt, and mace, and cut it into five or six pieces. 
Put it into an earthen pot, with a pound of butter 
in lumps upon it, set it in a hot oven, and let it stand 
three hours, then take it out, cut off the hard outsides, 
and beat it in a mortar. Add to it a little more pep- 
per, salt, and mace. Then oil a poind of butter in the 
gravy and fat that came from your beef, and put in as 
you find necessary; but beat the meat very fine. 
Then put it into your pot, press it close dowu, pour 
clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. 

Another method of potting beef, and which will 
greatly imitate venison, is this : Take a buttock ot 
beef and cut the lean of it into pieces of about H 



POTTING. 299 

pound weight each. To eight pounds of beef take 
tour ounces of saltpetre, the same quantity of bay-salt, 
half a pound of white salt, and an ounce of sal pru- 
nella. Beat all the salt very fine, mix them well to- 
gether, and rub them into the beef Then let it lie 
four days, turning it twice a day. After that put it 
into a pan, and cover it with pump water, and a little 
of its own brine. Send it to the oven, and bake it till 
it is tender; then drain it from the gravy, and take out 
all the skin and sinews. Pound the meat well in a 
mortar, lay it in a broad dish, and mix on it an ounce 
of cloves and mace, three quarters of an ounce of pep- 
per, and a nutmeg, all beat very fine. Blix the whole 
wa'll with the meat, and add a little clai'ified fresh butter 
to moisten it. Then press it down into pots very hard, 
set them at the mouth of the oven just to settle, and 
then cover them two inches thick with clarified butter. 
When quite cold, cover the pots over ^vith white pa- 
per tied close, and set them in a dry place. It will 
keep good a considerable time. 

Pigeons. 

Pick and draw" your pigeons, cut off the pinions, 
w^ash them clean, and put them in a sieve to drain. 
Then dry them w ith a cloth, and season them with 
pepper and salt. Roll a lump of butter in chopped 
parsley, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vents, 
then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie 
them down, and set them in a moderately heated oven. 
When they come out, put them into your pots, and 
pour clarified butter over them. 

JVoodcocJcs, 

Take six woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out 
the train. Skewer their bills through their thighs, 
put their legs through each other, and their feet upon 
their breasts. Season them with three or four blades 
of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Then put them 
into a deep pot, with a pound of butter over them, 
and tie a strong paper over them. Bake them in a 



300 FISH. 

moderate oven, aivd when they are enough, lay them 
on a dish to drain the gravy from them, then put them 
into potting-pots ; take all tlie clear butter from your 
gravy, and put it upon them. Fill up your pots with 
clarified butter. Keep them in a dry place for use 
Snipes must be done in the same manner. 



SECT. II. 

FISH. 

Take a large eel, and when you have skinned, 
washed clean, and thoroughly dried it with a cloth, 
(;ut it into pieces about four inches long. Season them 
with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, pepper, salt, 
and a little sal prunella beat fine. Lay them in a pan, 
and pour as much clarified butter over them as will 
cover them. Bake them half an hour in a quick oven ; 
but the size of your eels must be the general rule to 
determine what time they will take baking. Take 
them out \vith a fork, and lay them on a coarse cloth 
to drain. When they are quite cold, season them again 
with the like seasoning, and lay them close in the pot. 
Tlien take off the butter they were baked in clear fi'om 
the gravy of the fisli, and set it in a dish before the fire. 
When it is melted, pour the butter over them, and 
put them by for use. You may bone your eels, if you 
choose ; but in that case you must put in no sal pranella. 

Salmon. 

Take a large piece of fresh salmon, scale it, and 
wipe it clean. Then season it with Jamaica pepper, 
black pepper, mace, and cloves, beat fine, and mixed 
with salt, and a little sal prunella : then pour clarified 
butter over it, and bake it w^ell. When it is done, take 
it out carefully, and lay it on a cloth to drain. As 
soon as it is quite cold, season it again, lay it close in 
your pot, and cover it with clarified butter. Or you 
may pot it in this manner : 

Scale and clean a whole salmon, slit it down the 
back, dry it well, and cut it as near the shape of your 



FISH. 301 

pot as yoi; can. Then take two nutmegs, an ounce 
of mace and cloves beaten, half an ounce of white 
pepper, and an ounce of salt. Then take out all the 
bones, cut ofl' the tail and the head below the fins 
Season the scaly side first, and lay that at the bottom 
of the pot; then rub the seasoning on the other side, 
cover it with a dish, and let it stand all night. It must 
be put double, and the scaly sides top and bottom. 
Put some butter at the bottom and top, and cover the 
pot with some stift' coarse paste. If it is a large fish, 
it will require three hours baking ; but if a small one, 
two hours will be sufficient. When it comes out of 
the oven, let it stand half an hour, then uncover it, 
raise it up at one end that the gravy may run out, 
and put a trencher and weight on it effectually to an- 
swer this purpose. When the butter is cold take it 
out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it, and 
put it in a pan before the fire. When it is melted 
pour it over the salmon, and as soon as it is cold, pa- 
per it up, put it in a dry place, and it will keep a con- 
siderable time. Carp, tench, trout, and several other 
sorts of fish, may be potted in tJje same mamier. 

Lobster. 

Boil a live lobster in salt and water, and stick a 
skewer in the vent to prevent the water getting in. 
As soon as it is cold, take out all the flesh, beat it fine 
in a mortar, and season it with beaten mace, grated 
nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Mix all together, melt a 
piece of butter the size of a walnut, and mix it with 
the lobster as you beat it. When it is beat to a paste, 
put it into your pot, and press it down as close and 
hard as you can. Then set some butter in a deep broad 
pan before the fire, and when it is all melted, take oil 
the scum at the top, if any, and pour the clear butter 
over the fish as thick as a crown-piece. The whey 
and churn-milk will settle at the bottom of the pan ; 
but take care that none of that goes in, and always 
iet your butter be very good, or you will spoil all. li 
vou choose it, you may put in the meat whole, with the 



302 CURING. 

body mixed among it, laying them as close together is 
you can, and poming tlic butter over them. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
CURING VARIOUS KINDS OF MEATS, SOUSINGS, c^«C. 

Hams 
CUT oir a fine ham from a fat hind quarter of pork 
Take two omices of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, 
a pound of common salt, and two ounces of sal pru- 
nella; mix all together, and rub it well. Let it lie 
a month in this pickle, turning and basting it every 
day; then hang it in a wood suioke in a dry place, so 
that no heat comes to it; and, if you intend to keep 
them long, hang them a month or two in a damp place, 
and it will make them cut fine and short. Never lay 
these hams in water till you boil them, and then boil 
them in a copper, if you have one, or the largest pot 
3'ou have. Put them into the water cold, and let them 
be four or five liours before they boil. Skim the pot 
well, and often, till it boils. If it is a very large one, 
three hours will boil it ; if a small one, two hours will 
do, provided it is a great while before the Avater boils. 
Take it up half an hour before dinner, pull off the 
skin, and throw raspings, finely sifted, all over. Hold 
a red-hot salamander over it, and when dinner is rea- 
dy, take a few raspings in a sieve, and sift all over the 
dish, then lay in yovu' ham, and Avith your finger make 
figures round the edge of your dish. Be sure to boil 
your ham in as much water as you can, and keep skim- 
ming it all the time it boils. The pickle you take your 
liam out of will do finely for tongues. Let them lay 
in it a fortnight, and then lay them in a place Adhere 
there is wood smoke, to dry. When you broil any 
slices of ham or bacon, have some boiling Avater ready, 
let them lay a minute or two in it, and then put them 
on a gridiron. This is a very good method, as it 
takes out the violence of the salt, and makes them 
have a fim? fia'.c ur. 



CURING. 305 

Hams the Yorkshire Way. 
Mix well together half a peck of salt, three ounces 
ot saltpetre, half an ounce of sal prunella, and fiv«' 
pounds of very coarse salt. Rub the hams well with 
this : put them into a large pan or pickling- tub, and lay 
the remainder on the top. Let them lie three days, 
and then hang them up. Put as much water to the 
pickle as will cover the hams, adding salt till it will 
bear an egg, and then boil and strain it. The next 
morning put in the hams, and press thea: dovvU so that 
tliey may be covered. Let them lay a fortnight, then 
rub them well with bran, and dry them. The quan- 
tity of ingredients here directed, is for doing three 
middle-^zed hams at once, so that if you do only one, 
you must proportion the quantity of each article. 

JYetu England Hams. 
Get two fine hams, and in the mode of cure for this 
purpose, proceed as follows : take two ounces of sal 
prunella, beat it fine, rub it well in, and let them lie 
twenty-four hours. Then take half a pound of bay- 
salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, and one 
ounce of saltpetre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the 
coarsest sugar. Rub all these well in, and let them 
lie two or three days. Then take some white com- 
mon salt, and make a pretty strong brine, with about 
two gallons of water and half a pound of brov>n sugar. 
Boil it well, and scum it when cold ; put in the hams, 
and turn them every two or three days in the pickle 
for three weeks. Then hang them up in a chimney, 
and smoke them well a day or two with horse litter. 
Afterwards let them hang about a week on the side of 
the kitchen chimney, and then take them down. Keep 
them dry in a large box, and cover them well with 
bran. They will keep good in this state for a year, 
though if wanted, may be used in a month. 

Bacon. 
Take off all the inside fat of a side of pork, and lay 
it on a loni? board or drebser, that the bloo'i ir.ay run 



304 CURING. 

from it. Rub it well on both sides with gooc salt, and 
let it lie a day. Then take a pint of bay-salt, a quar- 
ter of a pound of saltpetre, and beat them both tine; 
two pounds of coarse sugar, and a quarter of a peck of 
common salt. Lay your pork in something that will 
hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above ingre- 
dients. Lay the skinny side downwards, and baste it 
every day with a pickle for a fortnight. Then hang 
it in a wood-smoke, and afterwards in a dry but not 
hot place. Remember that all hams and bacons should 
hang clear from every thing, and not touch the wall. 
Take care to wipe otf the old salt before you put it into 
the pickle, and never keep bacon or hams in a hot 
kitchen, or in a room exposed to the rays of th# sun, as 
all these matters will greatly contribute to make them 
rusty. 

Mutton Hams. 

Take a hind quarter of mutton, cut it like a ham, 
and rub it well with an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of 
coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt, mixed well 
together. Lay it in a deepish tray with the skin down- 
ward, and baste it with the pickle every day for a fort- 
night. Then roll it in sawdust, and hang it in a wood- 
smoke for a fortnight. Then boil it, and hang it up in 
a dry place. You may dress it whole, or cut slices off, 
and broil them, which will eat well, and have an ex- 
cellent flavour. 

Beef Hams. 

Cut the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox as nearly 
in the shape of a ham as you can. Take an ounce of 
bay-salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of common salt, 
and a pound of coarse sugar, which will be a sufficient 
quantity for about fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef; 
and if a greater or less quantity of meat, mix your 
ingredients in proportion. Pound these ingredients, 
mix them well together, rub your meat with it, turn it 
every day, and at the same time baste it well with the 
pickle. Let it lie in this state for a month, then take 
it out, roll it in bran or sawdust, and hang it in a wood- 
Kinoke for a month. Then take it down, hang it in a 



dry place, and keep it for use. You ;iiay dress it in 
whatever manner you please, and as occasion may re- 
quire. If you boil a piece of it, and let it be till it is 
cold, it will eat very good, and shives like Dutch beef; 
or it is exceeding tine cut into rashers and broiled, 
with poachcif eggs laid on the tops. 

A^eafs Tongue. 
Scrape your tongue clean, dry it well with a cloth, 
and then salt it with common salt, and half an ounce 
of saltpetre well mixed together. Lay it in a deep 
pan, and turn it every day for a week or ten days. 
Then turn it again, and let it lay a week longer. Take 
it out of the pan, dry it with a cloth, strew flour on it, 
and hang it up in a moderate warm place to dry. 

Hung Beef. 

Make a strong brine with bay-salt, saltpetre, and 
pump- water; put a rib of beef into it, and let it lay 
for nine days. Then hang it up a chimney where 
wood or sawdust is burnt. When it is a little dry, 
w^ash the outside with bullock's blood two or tliree 
times, to make it look black ; and when it is dry enough 
boil it, and serve it up with such kind of vegetables as 
you think proper. 

Another method of preparing hung beef is this : take 
the navel-piece, and hang it up in your cellar as long 
as it will keep good, and till it begins to be a little 
sappy ; then take it down, cut it into three pieces, and 
wash it in sugar and water, one piece after another. 
Then take a pound of saltpetre, and two pounds of 
bay-salt, dried and pounded small. Mix with them 
two or three spoonsful of brown sugar, and rub your 
beef well witli it in every place. Then strew a suf- 
ficient quantity of common salt all over it, and let the 
beef lie close till the salt is dissolved, which will be in 
six or seven dnys. Then turn it every other day for a 
fortnight, and after th^t hang it up in a warm but not 
hot place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitclien, 
and when you want it, boil it in bay-salt and pump- 
water till it is tender. It will keep when boiled, twc 

No. 13. 2 Q 



306 CURIPfG. 

or three months rubbing it with a greasy cloth, or 
putting it two or three minutes into boihnn^ water to 
take oil" the mouldiness. 

Dutch Bcff. 

Take a buttock of beef, cutoirall tlie fat, and rub 
tlie lean all over with brown sugar. Let it lie two or 
three hours in a pan or tray, and turn it two or 
three times. Then salt it with saltpetre and common 
salt, and let it lay a fortniglit, turning it every day. 
After the expiration of this time, roll it very straight 
in a coarse cloth, put it into a cheese-press for a day 
and a night, and then hang it to dry in a chimney. 
When you boil it put it into a cloth, and when cold, 
it will cut like Dutch beef 

Hunting Beef. 
Take a pound of salt, two ounces of saltpetre, a 
quarter of a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of cori- 
anders, one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, 
half an ounce of nutmeg, two ounces of allspice, a quar- 
ter of a pound of pepper, half an ounce of chyan pep 
per, and two ounces of ginger ; let the whole be gi'ound 
and well mixed. Take your buttock of beef and rub 
it well with the spices, and keep turning and rubbing 
it every day, one month : when your beef is to be done, 
take a deep pan, put in your beef with plenty of fat 
over and imder, taking care that your beef does not 
touch the bottom of the pan. Cover your pan down 
close so that the steam does not come out, which may 
be prevented by putting a paste to the cover made of 
flour and water. Send it to the oven, and if moderate 
it will be done enough in five hours. It should not be 
taken out of 3^our pan till quite cold ; be sure to have 
plenty of fat, as there must not be any water put in. 

Pickled Pork. 

Bone your pork, and then* cut it into pieces of a 

size suitable to lay iw the pan in which you intend to 

put it. Rub your pieces first w ith saltpetre, and then 

xvith two pounds of common salt, and two of bay-salt, 



SOUSING. 307 

mixt J totrether. Put a layer of common salt at the 
boirtJiii oi your pan or tub, cover every piece over with 
conimun salt, and lay them one upon anotlier as even 
as you can, filling the hollow places on the sides with 
salt. As your salt melts on the top, strew on more, 
lay a coarse cloth over the vessel, a board over that, 
and a weight on the board to keep it down. Cover it 
close, strew on more salt as may be occasionally 
necessary, and it will keep good till the very last bit. 

Mock Brawn. 

Take the head, and a piece of the belly-part of a 
young porker, and rub them well with saltpetre. Let 
them lay three days, and then wash them clean. Split 
the head and boil it, take out the bones, and cut it into 
pieces. Then take fom' cow-heels boiled tender, cut 
them in thin pieces, and lay them in the belly-piece 
i>f pork, with the head cut small. Then roll it up 
tight with sheet-tin, and boil it four or five hours. 
When it comes out, set it up on one end, put a 
trencher on it within the tin, press it down with a large 
weight, and let it stand all night. Next morning take 
it out of the tin, and bind it with a fillet. Put it into 
cold salt and water, and it will be fit for use. If you 
change the salt and water every four days, it will keep 
for a long time. 

Turkey soused in Imitation of Sturgeon. 

Dress a fine large turkey, dry and bone it, then 
tie it up as you do a sturgeon, and put it into the pot, 
with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, the same 
quantity of good vinegar, and a large handful of salt; 
but remember that the wine, water, and vinegar, must 
boil before you put in the turkey, and that the pot 
must be well skinmied before it boils. When it is 
enough, take it out, and tie it tighter; but let the 
liquor boil a little longer. If you think the pickle 
wants more vinegar or salt, add them when it is 
t^Jid; and pour it upon the turkey. If you keep it 
covered close from the air, and in a cool dry place, it 



308 soosifVG. 

will be equally good for some months. Some admire it 
more than sturgeon, and it is generally eaten with oil, 
vinegar, and sugar, for sauce. 

To make fine Sausages. 

Take six pounds of young pork, free from skin, 
gristles, and fat. Cut it very small, and beat it in a 
mortar till it is very fine. Then shred six pounds of 
beef-suet very fine, and free from all skin. Take a 
good deal of sage, wash it very clean, pick oif the 
leaves, and shred it fine. Spread your meat on a clean 
dresser or table, and then shake the sage all over it, 
to the quantity of about three large spoonsful. Shred 
the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine, and throw 
them over the meat, and also as many sweet herbs as, 
when shred fine, will fill a large spoon. Grate over it 
two nutmegs, and put to it two tea-spoonsful of pep- 
per, and a large spoonful of salt. Then throw over it 
the suet, and mix all well together. Put it down close 
in a pot, and when you use it, roll it up with as much 
egg as will make it roll smooth. Make them of the 
size of a sausage, and fry them in butter,, or good drip- 
ping. Be careful the butter is hot before you put them 
in, and keep rolling them about while they are doing. 
When they are thoroughly hot, and of a fine light 
brown, take them out, put them into a dish, and serve 
them up. Veal mixed with pork, and done in this man- 
ner, eats exceeding fine. 

Oxford Sausages. 

Take a pound of young pork, fat and lean, with- 
out skin or gristle, a pound of lean veal, and a pound 
of beef-suet, chopped all fine together ; put in half a 
pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred 
fine, a nutmeg grated, six sage-leaves washed and 
chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper and two 
of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjorum, shred fine 
Mix all well together, and put it close down in a pan 
till you use it. Roll it out the size of a common sau- 
sage, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or 
broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table as 
hot as possil)io. 



3V^ 

CHAPTER XXV 
METHODS OF KEEPING VEGETABLES, FRUITS, <^*C 

To keep Green Peas till Christmas. 

PEAS for this purpose must be chosen very finO; 
young and fresh gathered. Shell them, and put 
them into boiling water with some salt in it. When 
they have boiled five or six minutes, throw them into 
a cullender to drain. Then lay a cloth four or live 
times double on a table, and spread them on it. Dry 
them well, and having your bottles ready, fill them 
and cover them with mutton-fat fried. Cork them as 
close as possible, tie a bladder over them, and set 
them in a cool place. When you use them, boil the 
water, put in a little salt, some sugar, and a piece of 
butter. As soon as they are enough, throw them into 
a sieve to drain ; then put them into a saucepan with 
a good piece of butter, keep shaking it roinid till the 
butter is all melted, then turn them into a dish, and 
send them to table. 

To keep Gooseberries. 

Put an ounce of roche-alum, beat very fine, into a 
large pan of boiling hard water. When you have 
piclied your gooseberries, put a few of them into .the 
bottom of a hair sieve, and hold them in the boiling 
water till they turn white. Then take out the sieve, 
and spread the gooseberries between two clean cloths. 
Put more gooseberries in your sieve, and then repeat 
it till they are done. Put the water into a glazed pot 
till next day; then put your gooseberries into wide- 
mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked and broken 
ones, pour the water clear out of the pot, and fill your 
bottles with it. Then cork them loosely, and let them 
stand a fortnight. If they rise to the corks, draw them 
out, and let them stand two or three days uncorked. 
Then cork them quite close, and they will keep good 
several months. 

Another method of keeping gooseberries is this : 
Pick them as large and drv as yo!j can, and having 



310 FRUITS, 4'^- 

taken care that your bottles are clean and dry, fill and 
cork them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the 
neck, and let the water boil very slowly till you find 
tlie gooseberries are coddled ; tlieii take them out, and 
put in the rest of the bottles till all are done. Have 
ready some rosin melted in a pipkin, and dip the necks 
of the bottles into it, which will prevent all air from 
getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool dry place, 
and when you use them they will bake as red as a 
cherry, and have their natural flavour. 

To keep Mushrooms. 
Take large buttons, wash them in the same man- 
ner as for stewing, and lay them on sieves with the 
stalks upwards. Tlu'ow over them some salt, to draw 
out the water. When they are properly drained, put 
them into a pot, and set them in a cool oven for an 
hour. Then take them out carefulljs and lay them to 
cool and drain. Boil the licpior that comes out of them 
with a blade or two of mace, and boil it half away. 
Put your mushrooms into a clean jar well dried, and 
when the liquor is cold, pour it into the jar, and cover 
your mushrooms with it. Then pour over them ren- 
dered suet; tie a bladder over the jar, and set them 
in a dry closet, where they will keep very well the 
greater part of the winter. When you use them, take 
them out of the liquor, pour over them boiling milk, 
and let them stand an hour. Then stew them in the 
juilk a quarter of an hour, thicken them with flour, and 
A large quantity of butter ; but be careful you do not 
oil it. Then beat the yolks of two eg^s in a little 
cream, and put it into the stew; but do not let it boil 
after you have put in the eggs. Lay unroasted sippets 
round the inside of the dish, then serve them up, and 
they will eat nearly as good as when fresh gathered. 
If they do not taste strong enough, put in a little of 
the liquor. This is a very useful liquor, as it will give 
a strong flavour of fresh mushrooms to all made dishes. 

To Bottle Damsons. 
Take your damsons be{()re they are too ripe, pul 



POSSETS, i^C. 3} I 

them into wide-mouthed bottles, and cork them down 
tight ; then put them hito a moderate oven, and aboul 
three hours will do them. You must be careful youi 
oven is not too hot, or it will make your fruit fly. All 
kinds of fruits that are bottled may be done in the same 
way, and if well done will keep two years. After they 
are done they must be put away, with the mouth dow^n- 
ward, in a cool place, to keep them from fermenting. 

*^* Remember, that every species of the vegetable 
tribe designed for future use, at times out of the natural 
season, must be kept in dry places, as damps will not 
only cover them with mould, but will also deprive them 
of their fine flavour. It must likewise be observed, 
that while you endeavour to avoid putting them into 
damp places, you do not place them where they may 
get wann, which will be equally detrimental ; so that a 
proper attention must be paid to the observance of a ju- 
dicious medium. When ycfh boil any dried vegetables, 
always allow them plenty of water. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



POSSETS, GRUELS, c^c. 
Sack Possets. 

BEAT up the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and 
then strain them ; then put three quarters of a pound 
of white sugar into a pint of canary, and mix it with 
your eggs in a basin ; set it over a chafing-dish of 
coals, and keep continually stirring it till it is scalding 
hot. In the mean time grate some nutmeg in a quart 
of milk, and boil it, and then pour it into your eggs, 
and wine while they are scalding hot. As you pour it 
hold your hand very high, and let another person keep 
stirring it all the time. Then take it ofi", set it before 
the fire half an hour, and serve it up. 

Another method of making sack-posset is this : take 
four Naples biscuits, and crumble them into a quart of 
new milk when it boils. Just give it a boil, take it 
n{f, grate in some nutmpi;s, and sweeten it to your 



312 possRi s, i!^c. 

palate. Then pour in half a pint of sack, keep stir- 
ring it all tiie time, put it into your basin, and send it 
to table. 

Wine Posset. 

15oiL tlie crumb of a penny loaf in a quart of milk 
till it is soft, then take it oil the hre, and grate in half 
a iHitmeg. Put in sugar to your taste, then pour it 
into a china bowl, and put in by degrees a pint of 
Lisbon wine. Serve it up with toasted bread upon a 
plate. 

Ale Posset. 

Take a small piece of white bread, put it into a 
pint of milk, and set it over the fire. Then put some 
nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, warm it, and 
w hen your milk boils, pom* it upon the ale. Let it 
stand a few minutes to clear, and it w ill be fit for use 

Orange Posset. 
Take the crumb of a penny loaf gi-ated fine, and 
put it into a pint of water, with half the peel of a 
Seville orange grated, or sugar rubbed upon it to take 
out the essence. Boil all together till it looks thick and 
clear. Then take a pint of mountain wine, the juice 
of half a Seville orange, three ounces of sweet almonds, 
and one of bitter, beat fine, with a little French bran- 
dy, and sugar to your taste. Mix all well togetlier, 
put it into your posset, and serve it up. Lemon pos- 
set must be made in the same manner. 

White Caudle. 
Take two quarts of water, and mix it with four 
spoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and a 
piece of lemon-peel. Let it boil, and keep stirring it 
often. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and be care- 
ful not to let it boil over, then strain it through a coarse 
sieve. Wiien you use it sweeten it to your taste, grate 
in a little nutmeg, and what wine you think proper; 
and if it is not for a sick person, squeeze in the juice 
of a lemon. 

Brown Caudle. 
Miic your gruel as for the white caudle, and wher 



GRUELS, 4'C, 313 

you liave strained it, add a quart of ale that is not 
bitter. Boil it, then sweeten it to your palate, and 
add half a pint of wliitc wine or brandy. When you 
do not put in \vhite wine or brandy, let it be half ale. 

IF/iite Wine Whey. 

Put in a large basin half a pint of skimmed milk 
and half a pint of wine. When it has stood a few mi- 
nutes, pour in a pint of boiling water. liet it stand a 
little, and the curd will gather in a lump, and settle at 
the bottom. Then pour your whey into a china bowl, 
and put in a lump of sugar, a sprig of balm, or a slice 
of lemon. 

Water Gruel. 

Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of water, 
aiid stir it well together, and let it boil three or four 
times, stirring it often ; but be careful it does not boil 
over. Then strain it through a sieve, salt it to your 
palate, and put in a good piece of butter. Stir it about 
with a spoon till the butter is all melted, and it will be 
fme and smooth. 

Barley Gruel. 

Put a quarter of a pound of pearl-barley, and a 
stick of cinnamon, into two quarts of water, and let 
it boil till it is reduced to one quart. Then strain it 
through a sieve, add a pint of red wine, and sweeten 
it to your taste. 

Orgeat Paste. 

Take three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, 
and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, blanch and 
pound them in your mortar, wetting them fi-om time 
to time with orange-flower water that they may not oil. 
When they are pounded very hne, add three quarters 
of a pound of fine pounded sugar to it, and mix the 
whole into a stiff paste, and then put it into your pots 
for use. This paste will keep sLx months. When you 
wish to use it, you may take a piece about the size of 
an e2;g and mix it witiihalfa pint of water, and squeeze 
't through a nno n ipkin. 



.•?14 



CHAPTER XXVII 



MADE fVIJVES, <^c. 

A STRICT and attentive management in the making 
of these articles is the grand means by whicii tiiey are 
to be broiiglit to a proper state of perfection ; and with- 
out which, labour, expense, and disrepute, will be 
the final, and disagrecal)le consequences. To prevent 
the last, and promote the first, let a due observance be 
paid to the following general rules : do not let such 
wines as require to be made with boiling water stand 
too long after drawn, before you get them cold, and be 
careful to put in your barm in due time, othervrise it 
will fret after being put into the cask, and. can never 
be brought to that state of fineness it ought to be. 
Neither must you let it work too long in the butt, as 
it will be apt to take off the sweetness and flavour ol 
the fruit or flow ers from which it is made. Let your 
vesvsels be thoroughly clean and dry, and before you 
put in the wine, give them a rince with a little brandy. 
When the W' ine has done fermenting, bung it up close, 
and after being properly settled, it will draw to youi 
W'ishes. 

Raisin JVine. 

Put tv,o hundred weight of raisins, ^^ith all theii 
stalks into a large hogsiiead, and fill it up with water. 
Let them steep a fortnight, stirring them every day. 
Then pour off tiie liquor, and ]>ress the raisins. Put 
both liquors together into a nice clean vessel that will 
just hold it, for remember, it must be quite full* Let 
it stand till it is done hissing, or making the least noise, 
then stop it close, and let it stand six months. Then 
peg it, and if quite clear, rack it off into another ves- 
sel. Stop it again close, and let it stand three montlis 
longer. Then bottle it, and when wanted, rack it ofT 
into a decanter. 

An excellent Wine, from Smyrna Currants. 
To every gallon of water ])ut two pounds and three 
ij-iai'lvrs of brown sugar, \\\\i\ (^:;e po^md and a h.alf of 



MADE WJNES. 3]b 

Smyrna currants. Boil the sugar and water for half 
an hour, and fine it with whites of eggs; when near 
cold, pnt some fresh barm to it, and let it stand in the 
tub seven or eight days, stirring it once a day. Cut 
your curraiits a httle with a chopping knife, then put 
them into a barrel, and pour the wine on them. Have 
ready some isinglass dissolved in a little of the wine, 
and put it into the barrels, stirring it every day for six 
or eight weeks, then close it up, and in about nine 
months it will be ready to bottle. 

Currant Wine. 

Gather your fruit on a fine dry day, and when 
they are quite ripe. Strip them from the stalks, put 
them into a large pan, and bruise them with a wooden 
pestle. Let them lay twenty-four hours to ferment, then 
run the liquor through a hair sieve, but do not let your 
hands touch it. To every gallon of liquor put two 
pounds and ahalf of white sugar, stir it well together, 
and put it into your vessel. To ev^ery six gallons put 
in a quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks. If it 
is then fine, bottle it ; but if not, draw it off as clear as 
you can into another vessel, or large bottles, and in a 
fortnight put it into sjnaller bottles, cork them close, 
and set it by for use. 

Gooseberry JVine. 

Gather your gooseberries in dry weather, and at 
'vhe time when they are about half ripe. Gather about 
a i)eck in quantity, and bruise them well in a clean tub. 
Then take a horse-hair cloth, and press them as much 
as possible without breaking the seeds. When you 
have squeezed out all the juice, put to every gallon 
three pounds of fine dry pounded sugar. Stir it all 
together till the sugar is dissolved, and then put it into 
a vessel or cask, w hich must be quit(; filled. If the 
quantity is ten or twelve gallons, let it stand a fortnight, 
but, if it is a twenty gallon cask, it must stand three 
weeks. Set it in a cool place; then draw it oif from 
the lees, and po-ir In t\\c clear liquor again. If it is a 



S\6 MADE WINES. 

ten gallon cask, let it stand three months ; if a twenty 
gallon cask, four mouths; then bottle it off, and it ^^iU 
draw clear and fine. 

Mulbcmj Wine'. 

Gather your mulberries when they are in th^ 
stat(i of changing from red to black, and at that time of 
the day when they are dry from tlie dew having been 
taken oil' by the heat of the sun. Spread them loose 
on a cloth, or a clean floor, and let tliem lay twenty- 
four hours. Then put them into a convenient vesse. 
for the purpose, squeeze out all the juice, and drain it 
from the seeds. Boil up a gallon of water to each 
gallon of juice you get out of them ; then skim the 
water well, and add a little cinnamon .slightly bruised. 
Put to each gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy 
finely beaten. Skim and strain the water, when it has 
been taked off, and is settled ; and put to it some 
more juice of tlie mulberries. To every gallon of the 
liquor, add a pint of w hite or rhenish w'ine. Let it 
stand in a cask to purge or settle for five or six days, 
and then draw oft" the wine, and keep it in a cool place. 

Raspberry Wine. 

Pick some of the finest raspbemes you can get, 
bruise them, and strain them through a flannel baginto 
a stone jar. To eacli quart of juice put a pound of 
double-refined sugar, then stir it well together, and 
cover it close. Let it stand three days, and then pour 
it oft' clear. To a quart of juice put two pints of 
wdiite wine, and then bottle it oft'. In the course of a 
week it will be fit for use. 

Damsom Wine. 

After you have gathered your damsons, Avhich 
must be on a dry day, weigh tliem and then bruise 
them. Put them into a stein that has a tap in it, and 
to every eiglit jiounds of fruit put a gahon of AA'ater. 
Boil the ^^ atrr, skim it, and ])our it scalding hot on 
your fruit. Wiien it has stood t^vo days draw it ofl, 



MADE WINES. 317 

And put it into a vessel, and to every gallon of .iqnor 
put two pounds and a half of line sugar. Fill up the 
vessel and stop it close, and the longer it stands the 
better. When yon draw it olf, put a lump of sugar 
into every bottle. 

Orangp. Wine. 
Boil six gallons of spring water three quarters ol 
an hour, w^ith twelve pounds of the best pow^der sugar, 
and the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When 
it is cold, put it in six spoonsful of } eagt. Take the juice 
of twelv^e lemons, which, being pared, must stand 
with about two pounds of white sugar in a tankard, 
and in the morning .skim off the top, and put it in the 
water. Then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, 
but not the white parts of the rinds, and then let them 
work all together for forty- eight hours. Then add two 
quarts of Rhenish or Vv'hite wine, and put it into your 
vessel. 

Orange ^vine may be made with raisins, in which 
case proceed thus : take thirty pounds of new Malaga 
raisins picked clean, chop them small, and take twenty 
large Seville oranges, ten of which you must prepare " 
as thin as for preserving. Boil about eight gallons of 
soft w^ater till one third of it is wasted, and let it cool 
a little. Then put five gallons of it hot upon your 
raisins and orange-peel, stir it well together, cover it 
up, and when it is cold, let it stand five days, stirring 
it once or twice a day. Then pass it through a hair 
sieve, and with a spoon press it as dry as you can 
Put it in a rundlet fit for use, and put to it the rinds 
of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as the first. Then 
make a syrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a 
pound of white sngar, which nuist be done the day 
before you tun the wine. Stir it well together, and 
stop it close. Let it stand two months to clear, and 
then bottle it off. This wine gi-eatly improves by time, 
and will drink mucli better at the end of the third year 
(I' an the first. 

Lemon Wine. 
Pare off the rinds of six large lemons, cut them, 



318 MADE WINES. 

and squeeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the juice, 
and put to it a quart of brandy. Lot it stand three 
days in an earthen pot close stopped ; then squeeze six 
more, and mix it witli two quarts of spring water, and 
as much suga^' as will sweeten the whole. Boil the 
water, lemons, and sugar together, and let it stand till 
it is cool. Then add a quart of w hite wine, mix them 
together, and run it through a flannel bag into some 
vessel. Let it stand three months, and then bottle it 
off. Cork your bottle** well, keep it cool, and it will 
be fit to drink in a month or six weeks. 

Lemon wine may be made to drink like citron wa- 
ter, the method of which is as follows : pare fine a 
dozen of lemons very thin, put the peels into five quarts 
of French brandy, and let them stand fourteen days. 
Then make the juice into a syrup Avith three pounds 
of single-refined sugar, and when the peels are ready, 
boil fifteen gallons of water with forty pounds of single- 
refined sugar for half an hour. Then put it into a tub, 
and when cool, add to it one spoonful of barm, and let 
it work two days. Then turn it, and put in the bran- 
dy, peels, and syrup. Stir them altogether, and close 
up your cask. Let it stand three months, then bottle 
it, and it will be as pale and fine as any citron water. 

Grape Wine. 

Put a gallon of w^ater to a gallon of grapes. Bruise 
the gi'apes w ell, let them stand a week without stir- 
ring, and then draw oft' the liquor. Put to a gallon 
of the wine three pounds of sugar, and then put it into 
a vessel, but do not fasten it up with your bung till it 
has done hissing. Let it stand two months, and it will 
draw clear and fine. If you think proper you may 
then bottle it, but remember your cork is quite close, 
and keep it in a good dry cellar. 

Cherry Wine. 

Gather your cherries when they are quite ripe, 
pull them from the stalks, and press them through a 
hair-sieve. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds 



MADE WINE*-" 319 

of lump sugar finely beaten, then stir it together, and 
put it into a vessel that will just contain it. When it 
has done working, and ceases to make any noise, stop 
it very close for three montlis, and then bottle it off for 
use. 

Elder Wine. 
Pick your elder-berries when they are full ripe, put 
them into a stone jar, and set them in the oven, or in 
a kettle of boiling water (ill tlie jar is hot through ; then 
take them out, and strain them through a coarse sieve, 
wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean ket- 
tle. To every quart of juice, put a pound of fine Lis- 
bon sugar, let it boil, and skim it well. When it is 
clear and fine, pour it into a cask. To every ten gal- 
lons of wine, add an ounce of isinglass dissolved in 
cider, and six whole eggs. Close it up, let it stand six 
months, and then bottle it. 

Apricot Wine. 

Put three pounds of sugar into tiiree quarts of wa 
ter, let tliem boil together, and skim it well. Then 
put in six fjounds of apricots j)ared and stoned, ;md let 
them boil till they are tender. Take out the apricots, 
and when the liquor is cold, bottle it up For present 
iLse the apricots will make good marmaiade. 

Quince Wine. 

Gather twenty large quinces, when they are dry 
and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, 
and grate them with a large grate or rasp as near the 
cores as you can; but do not touch the cores. Boil a 
g;dlon of spring-water, throw in your quinces, and let 
them boil softly about a quarter of an hour. Then 
strain them well into an earthen pan on two pounds 
of double-refined sugar. Pare the peel of two large 
lemons, throw them in, and srpieeze the juice through 
a sieve. Stir it about till it is very cold, and then 
toast a thin slice of bread very brown, rub a little yeast 
on it, and let the whole stand close covered twenty- 
Ciur hours. Then take out the to;ist and lemon, ])ut 
27* 



^'20 MADE WINES. 

the wine i i ii cask, keep it three months, and t.lien bot- 
tle it. If you make a twenty gallon cask, let it stana 
six months before you bottle it; and remember, when 
Vou strain voiu' quinces, to wring them hard in a coarse 
cloth. 

Blackbcrrij Wine. 

Let your berries be full ripe when you gatlier them 
for this purpose. Put them into a large vessel either 
of wood or stone, with a tap \\\ it, and pour upon them 
as much boiling water as \vill cover them. As soon as 
the heat w ill permit you to put your hand into the ves- 
sel, bruise them Avell till all the berries are broken. 
Then let them stand covered till the berries begin to 
rise tow-ards tlie top, which they will do in three or 
four days. Then draw off the clear into another ves- 
sel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one 
pound of sugar. Stir it w ell in, and let it istand to 
work a week or ten days in another vessel like the first. 
Then draw" it off at the cork through a jelly-bag into a 
large vessel. Take four ounces of isinglass, and lay it 
to steep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The 
next morning boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dis- 
solved. Then take a gallon of your blackberry juice, 
put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, 
and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days 
to purge and settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a 
cool place. 

Turnip Wine. 

Take what quantity of turnips you think proper, 
pare and slice them, put them into a cider-press, and 
squeeze out all the juice. To every gallon of juice put 
three pounds of lump sugar, put both into a vessel just 
large enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of 
juice half a pint of brandy. Lay something over the 
bung for a week; and when you are sure it has done 
working, bung it down close. Let it stand three 
months, then draw" itoff into another vessel, and when 
it is fine, put it into bottles. 



MADE WINES ."^21 

Birch Wine. 
This wine must be made at that time of the year 
when tlie liquor from the birch-trees can be best pro- 
cured. This is in the beginning of March, when the 
sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out; for when 
the sap is coming forward, and the leaves appear, the 
juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick 
and coloured, which before was thin and clear. The 
method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the 
body of the tree and putting fossets, which are usual- 
ly made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken 
out. You may, w ithout hurting the tree, if it is large, 
tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by 
that means save, from a good many trees, several gal- 
lons every day. If you do not get enough in one day, 
the bottles in which it drops must be corked close, and 
rosined or waxed ; however, make use of it as soon as 
you can. Take the sap, and boil it as long as any 
scum will rise, skimming it all the time. To every 
gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar and the 
thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and 
keep skimming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and 
when it is almost cold, set it to work with yeast spread 
upon a tiast. Let it stand five or six days, stirring it 
often. Then take a cask just large enough to hold all 
the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and 
throw it into the cask, stop it close till the match is 
extinguished, then turn your wine, and lay the bung 
on lightly till you find it has done working. Stop it 
close, and, after three months, bottle it off. 

Rose Wine. 

Put into a well-glazed earthen vessel three gallons 
of rose-water drawn with a cold still. Put into it a 
sufficient quantity of rose-leaves, cover it close, and set 
it for an hour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to 
to take out the whole strength and flavour of the roses. 
When it is cold, press the rose-leaves hard into the 
liquor, and steep fresh ones on it, repeating it till the 
liquor has got the full strenn^th of the roses. To every 

No. 14. 2 S 



322 MADE WINES. 

gallon ot liquor put three pounds of loaf sugar, and stli 
it well that it may melt and disperse in every part. 
Then put it into a cask, or other convenient vessel, tc 
ferment, and throw into it a piece of bread toasted 
hard and covered with yeast. Let it stand a month, 
when it will be ripe, and have all the line fla\our and 
scent of the roses. If you add some wine and spices, 
it will be a considerable improvement. By the same 
mode of infusion, wines may be made from any other 
flowers that have an odoriferous scent, and grateful 
flavour. 

•Ginger Wine. 

Put seven pounds of Lisbon sugar into four gallons 
of spring water, boil them a quarter of an hour, and 
keep skimming it all the time. When the liquor is 
cold, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and then boil 
the peels with t\YO ounces of ginger, in three pints of 
water, for an hour. When it is cold, put it all toge- 
ther into a barrel, with two spoonsful of yeast, a quar- 
ter of an ounce of isinglass beat very thin, and two 
pounds of jar raisins. Then close it up, let it stand 
seven weeks, and then bottle it off. 

Balm Wine. 
Boil forty pounds of sugar in nine gallons of water 
for two hours, skim it well, and put it into a tub to cool. 
Take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruise 
them, and put them into a barrel with a little new 
yeast, and when the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm. 
Mix it well together, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours, stirring it frequently during the time. Then 
close it up, and let it stand six weeks, at the expira- 
tion of which rack it off, and put a lump of sugar into 
every bottle. Cork it well, and it will be better the 
second year than the first. 

Mead Wine. 
There are different kinds of this wine; but those 
generally made are two, namely, sack-mead and cow 
sUp-mead. Sack mead is made thus: to every gallor 



MADE WINES. 323 

of water put four pounds of lioney, and boil it three 
quarters of an hour, taking care properly to skim it 
To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boh 
it half an hour, and let it stand till the next day. Then 
put it into your cask ; and to thirteen gallons of the 
liquor add a quart of brandy or sack. Let it be tightly 
closed till the fermentation is over, and then stop it 
up very close. I( you make as much as fills a large 
cask, you must not bottle it off till it has stood a year. 
To make cowslip-mead you nmst proceed thus : put 
thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of water, 
and boil it till one gallon is wasted; skim it, take il 
oft the lire, and have ready sixteen lemons cut in 
half. Take a gallon of the liquor, and put it to the 
lemons. Pour the rest of the liquor into a tub, with 
seven pecks of cowslips, and let them stand all night" 
then put in the liquor with the lemons, eight spoonsful 
of new yeast, and a handful of sweet-brier; stir all 
well together, and let it work three or four days. 
Then strain it, pour it into your cask, le-t it stand six 
months, and then bottle it off for use. 

Raspberry Brandy. 
Mix a pint of water with two quarts of brandy, 
and put them into a pitcher large enough to hold them, 
with four pints of raspberries. Put in half a pound of 
loaf-sugar, and let it remain for a week close covered. 
Then take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland 
over it, and let it run through by degrees. In about 
a week it will be perfectly fine, when you may racik it 
off; but be careful the bottles are well corked. 

Orange Brandy. 
Put into three quarts of brandy the chips of eigh- 
teen Seville oranges, and let them steep a fortnight in 
a stone bottle close stopped. Boil two quarts of spring 
water, with a pound and a half of the finest sugar, 
near an hour very gently. Clarify the water and su 
gar with the white of an egg, then strain it through a 
jelly-bag, and boil it near half away. When it is cold 
strain the brandy into the syr q). 



324 CORDIAL WATERS. 

Lemon Brandy. 
Mix five quarts of water with one gallon of brandy; 
then take two d jzcn of" lemons, two pounds of the best 
sugar, and tliree pints of milk Pare the lemons very 
thin, and lay the peel to steep in the brandy twelve 
hours. Squeeze the lemons upon the sugar, then put 
the water to it, and mix all the ingredients together. 
Let it stand twenty-four hours, and then strain it. 

Black Cherry Brandy. 
Stone eight pounds of black cherrie:s, and put on 
them a gallon of the best brandy. Bruise the stones 
in a mortar, and then put them into your brandy. Co- 
ver them up close, and let them stand a month or six 
weeks. Then pour it clear from the sediments, and 
bottle it. Morello cherries managed in this manner, 
make a fine rich cordial. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 
CORDIAL WATERS. 

IN the process of making these articles, several 
things are necessary to be observed, in order to bring 
them to their proper state of perfection. If your stiU 
is an alembic, yon miisl fill the top with cold watci 
when you set it on, and close the bottom with a little 
stiff paste made of flour and water. If you use a hot 
still, when yon put on the top, dip a cloth in white 
lead and oil, and lay it close over the ends, and a coarse 
cloth well soaked in water on the top ; and when it 
becomes dry from the heat of the fire, wet it and lay it 
on again. It will require but little fire, but what there 
is must bo as clear as possiljle. All simple waters 
must stand two or three days before they are bottled 
oft', that the fiery taste which they will naturally receive 
from the still may be fully extracted. 

Rose Water. 
Gather your roses when they are dry and ni!i 
blown, pick oft' the leaves, and to every peck put s 



CORDIAL WATERS. 326 

quart of water. Then put them into a cold still, and 
make a slow lire under it ; tor the more gradually it is 
distilled, the better it will be. Then bottle it, and in 
two or three days you may coi'k it up for use. 

Lavender Water. 

To every pound of lavender-neps put a quart of 
water. Put them into a cold stiil, and make a slow 
fire under it. Dis>til it off very slowly, and put it into 
a pot till you have distilled all your water. Then 
clean your still well out, put your lavender-water into 
it, and distil it off as slowly as before. Then put it 
into bottles, cork them quite close, and set them by for 
use. 

Peppermint Water. 

Gather your peppermint when it is full grown, 
and before it seeds. Cut it into short lengths, put it 
into your still, and cover it with water. Make a good 
fire under it, and when it is near boiling, and the still 
begins to drop, if you find your fire too hot, draw a 
little away, that the liquor may not boil over. The 
slower your still drops, the clearer and stronger will be 
the water ; but at the same time you must not let it 
get too weak. The next morning bottle it off, and 
after it has stood two or three days, to take oft' the 
fiery taste of the still, cork it well, and it will preserve 
its strength a considerable time. 

Su7]feit Water. 
Take scurvy-grass, brook-lime, water-cresses, Ro- 
man wormwood, rue, mint, balm, sage, and chives, of 
each one handful ; poppies, if fresh, half a peck ; but 
if they are dry, only half that quantity; cochineal and 
saffron, six-penny worth of each : aniseeds, carraway- 
eeds, coriander-seeds, and cardamum seeds, of each 
•> ounce ; two ounces of scraped liquorice, a pound 
<^split figs, the same quantity of raisins of the sun 
^^d, an ounce of juniper-berries bruised, an ounce 
^^ uten nutmeg, an ounce of mace bruised, and the 
>anv,f svveet fennel seeds also bruised ; a few^ flowers 



826 BREWING. 

of rosemary, marigold, and sage. Put all these mto a 
large stone jar, and pour on them three gallons of 
French brandy. Co\ er it close, and let it stand near 
the hre for three weeks. Stir it three times a week, 
and at the expiration of that time strain it off. Bottle 
yoin* licpior, and pom- on the ingredients a quart more 
of Frencli brandy. Let it stand a week, stirring it 
once a day; then distil it in a cold still, and you will 
have a fine \vhite surfeit water. Bottle it close, and it 
will retain its virtues a considerable time. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 
THE ART OF BREWIJVG. 

TO complete the Housekeeper's knowledge in all 
domestic concerns, it is essentially necessary she should 
be properly acquainted with the method of brewing 
malt-liquors, more especially should she be the princi- 
pal provider for a numerous family. This business 
will therefore form the subject of the present chapter, 
and the mode to be pursued throughout the whole pro- 
cess we shall endeavour to lay down in so clear, con- 
cise, and intelligent a manner, as may easily guide the 
unacquainted, and perhaps, in some degree, be mate- 
rially beneficial to those already informed. 



SECT. I. 

The Principles on which a Copper should be built 
for Brewing. 

There are several things that demand peculiar no 
tice previous to the actual process of brewing malt/ 
liquors ; and those are with respect to the various im^ 
plements necessary to effect and facilitate a proper 
execution of so important a business. 

The first thing that presents itself among these is 
the copper, the proper position of which, and manner 
of its beina set are matters that require very attentive 



BREWING. 327 

consideration. Tlie most beneficial mode to l)e adopt- 
ed is this : divide the heat of the fire by a stop ; and if 
the door and draiiglit be in a direct hne, the stop must 
be erected from tlie middle of each outline of the grat- 
ing, and parallel with the centre sides of the copper; 
by wiiich method the middle of the fire will be direct- 
ly under the bottom of the copper. The stop is com- 
posed of a thin wall in the centre of the right and left 
sides of the copper, which is to ascend lialf the height 
of it. On the top must be left a cavity, from four to six 
inches, for a draught for that half part of tlie fire which 
is next the door of the copper ; and then the building 
must close all round to the finishing at the top. By 
this method the heat will communicate from the out- 
ward part of the fire round the outward half of yom* 
copper, through the cavity, as well the farthest part of 
the flue, which also contracts a conjunction of the 
whole, and causes the flame to glide gently and equally 
round the bottom of the copper. 

The advantages derived from your copper being set 
in this manner are very great, nor is the saving of fuel 
the least object of consideration among them. It has a 
material pre-eminence over wheel-draughts ; for Avith 
them, if there is not particular attendance giv en to the 
hops, by stirring them down, they are apt to stick to 
the sides, and scorch, which will deprive the liquor of 
having its sweet and proper flavour. By the before 
mentioned metliod the copper will last many years 
more than it will by the wheel-draught; for that draws 
with so much violence, that should your liquor be 
beneath tlie communication of the fire, your copper 
will thereby be liable to injury ; whereas by the other 
method, you may boil half a copper full without fear 
v>f any bad consequence. 



SECT. II. 

On the proper Manao;ement of Vessels for Brewings 
and the necessity of keeping them in due Order. 

On the oreccding dav that you intend to brow 



528 BREWING. 

make a strict cxaniiiiatioii into all your vessels, that 
they are thoroughly clean, and in a proj)er state for use. 
They fihoiild never be converted to any other purpose, 
except for the use of makin<^ ^vi^cs; and, even in that 
case, after done with, should be properly cleansed, and 
kept in a place free from dirt. Let your cask be well 
cleaned with boiling Avater ; and if the bung-hole is 
large enough, scrub them ^vell with a small birch- 
broom, or brush. If you find them bad, and a very 
musty scent comes from ihem, take out the heads, and 
let them be scrubbed clean with a hand brush, sand, 
and fullers'- earth. When you have done this, put on 
the head again, and scald it well, then throw in a piece 
of unslacked lime, and stop the bung close. When 
they have stood some time, rince them well with cold 
water, and they will be properly prepared for use. 

The greatest attention must likewise be paid to the 
care of your coolers, which are implements of very ma- 
terial consequence ; for, if they are not properly kep< 
in order, your liquor, from a secret and unaccoimtabk 
cause, abstracts a nauseousness that will entirely de- 
stroy it. This often proceeds from wet having been 
infused in the wood, as it is sometimes apt to lodge in 
the crevices of old coolers, and even infect them to such 
a degree, that it will not depart, though many washings 
and scaldings are applied. One cause incidental to 
this evil is, suffering women to wash in a brewhouse, 
which ought by no means to be permitted, where any 
other convenience can be had ; for nothing can be more 
hurtful than the remnants of dirty soap suds left in 
vessels calculated only for the pm-pose of brewing. 

When you prepare the coolers, be careful never to 
let the water stand too long in them, as it will soak in, 
and soon turn putrid, when the stench will enter the 
wood, and render them almost incurable. To prevent 
such consequences, as well as to answer good purposes, 
it has been recommended, where fixed brewhouses 
are intended, that all coolers should be leaded. It 
must be admitted, in the first ])lace, tiiat such are ex- 
ceeding clrai^ly: :-M;d, sPconiDv', !}<:>: it expedites the 



BREWING. 329 

cooling part of your liquor worts, which is very i .tees 
sary to forward it for working, as well as afterwards 
for cooling tlie whole ; for evaporation causes consi- 
derably more v> istc than proper boiling. It is alsc 
indispensably necessary that yom* coolers be well scour- 
ed with cold water tsvo or three times, cold water 
being more proper tlian hot. to eil'ect a perfect cleansing, 
especially if they are in a bad condition, from undis- 
covered filth that may he in tiie crevices. The appli- 
cation of warm water will drive the infection farther; 
so that if your li([uor he let into the coolers, and any 
remain in the crevices, the heat will collect the foulness, 
and render the whole both disagreeable and unwhole- 
some. 

The mash-tub in particular must be kept perfectly 
clean ; nor must the grains be left in the tub any long- 
er than the day after brewing, lest it should sonr the 
tub ; for if there is a sour scent in the brewhouse before 
your beer is tunned, it will be apt to infect your liquor 
and worts. From sucli inconveniences, the necessity 
of cleanliness in utensils for brewing is sufficiently 
obvious. 



SECT. II!. 

Directions for the Mcniagement of the Mash-tub, 
Pcnstaff, <^.c. 

To render your mash-tub more perl'ect and lasting, 
you should have a circvilar piece of brass or copper, to 
inlay and line the ^vhole where the penstatf enters, to 
h^t the wort rim off into the underback. Tlie ponstafT 
should be also strongly ferrelled with the same metal, 
and bothw^ell andtaperly finished, so that you can phice 
it properly. By this method you have it rim from 
the fineness of a thread to t!»e fulness of an inclitnbe, 
^vc. first dressing your uuisk-basket with straw, fern, 
01 small bushy furze without stem.s, six or eight inches 
in from the bottom of your basket, and set quite per- 
pendicularly over ilie whole, v.ith the penstaff through 

N(i. II. 2 T 



350 BREWING. 

the centre of the basket, and the middle of the fuize 
or li'rn, .and fastened to the liolc of the tub. To steady 
it {iiopcrly, you must have a piece of iron let into a 
staple fastened to tiie tub, at the nearest part opposite 
the basket, and to reach nearly to it; and from that 
plccv aiKother added on a jointed swivel, or any otlier 
contrivance, so as to be at liberty to let round the bas- 
ket lilie a dogs collar, and to enter into the staple form- 
ed in the same to pin it fast, and by adding a half cir- 
cular turn into the collar, in which you have room to 
drive in a wedge, ^^ hich Avill keep it safe down to the 
bottom, where there can be no danger of its being dis- 
turbed by stirring the mash, which will otherwise 
sometimes be the. case. When you let go, you will 
raise the penstati' to your own degree of running, and 
then fasten the staff, by the help of two wedges tight- 
ened between the stall' and the basket. 

In process of time the copper work, like everything 
else, will become defective, and when this is the case, 
you may repair the imperfection by the following sim- 
ple method. Work the penstaff in the brass socket 
with emery and water, or oil, which will make it per- 
haps more perfect than when new. The like method 
is sometimes taken even with taps just purchased, in 
order to prevent their decaying so soon as they other- 
wise would. 

A very material addition may be made to tlie con- 
venience of tiie underbacks, by having a piece of cop- 
per to line the hole in the bottom, which may be stop- 
ped with a cloth put singly round a large tap; and 
when it is fastened down for the ^^ ort to run, it will be 
necessary to put a large weiglit on the tap, which will 
prevent its flying up by the heat. When the liquor 
is pnmped clean out of the back, the cloth round the 
tap will enable you to take out the tap with case ; and 
tliere should be a drain below the undcrback to carry 
off the water, which will enable you to wash it perfect- 
'y clean with very little trouble. This drain should 
be made with a clear descent, so as no damp may re- 
main under the l)ack. With the conveyance n{ water 



BREWING. 331 

running into your copper, you may be enabled to work 
that water in a double quantity, your underback being 
tilled, by the means of letting it in at your leisure, out 
of your copper, through a shoot to the mash-tub, and 
so to the underback. Thus you will have a reserve 
against the time you wish to fill your copper, which 
may be completed in a few^ minutes, by pumping w hile 
the under tap is running. Thus much for the princi- 
pal utensils in brewing, which we again recommend 
to be always kept in a perfect state of cleanliness. 



SECT. IV 

Of the j)roper Time of Breivtng. 

The inonth of March is generally considered as one 
of the principal seasons for brewing malt liquor for 
long keeping; and the reason is, because the air at 
that time of the year is, in general, temperate, and con- 
tributes to the good working or fermentation of the 
Uquor, which principally promotes its preservation and 
good keeping. Very cold, as well as very hot w eather, 
prevents the free fermentation or working of liquors; 
so that, if you brew in very cold weather, unless you 
use some means to warm the cellar while new drink 
is working, it will never clear itself in the manner you 
would wish, and the same misfortune will arise if, in 
very hot weather, the cellar is not put into a tempe- 
rate state ; the consequence of all which w ill be, that 
such drink will be muddy and sour, and, perhaps, in 
such a degree, as to be past recovery. Such accidents 
often happen, even in the proper season for brewing, 
and that owing to the badness of the cellar; for when 
they are dug in springy grounds, or are subject to damps 
in the winter, the liquor will chill, and become vapid 
or flat. When cellars are of this nature, it is advisable 
to make your brewings in March, rather than in Octo- 
ber ; for you may keep your cellars temperate in sum- 
mer, but cannot warm them in winter. Thus your 
beer brewed in March will liave due time to settle and 
28* 



332 D11EWI««. 

adjust itself ])erore the cold can do it any material in- 

All cellars for keeping liquor should be lormed in 
such a manner, tliat no external air can get ijilo tliem ; 
lor the variation of the air abroad, were there fi ee ad- 
mission of it into the cellars, would cause as many alter- 
ations in the liquors, and would thereby keep them in 
so unsettled a state, as to render them mifit lor drink- 
ing. A constant temperate air digests and softens 
malt hquors ; so that they taste quite soft and smooth 
to the palate; but m cellars which are unequal, by 
letting in heats and colds, the liquor will be apt to 
sustain very material injury. 



SECT. V. 

On the Quality of Water proper for Brewing. 

It has evidently appeared from repeated experience, 
that the w'ater best in quality for brewing is river- 
water, such as is soft, and has received those benefits 
which naturally arise from the air and sun ; for this 
easily penetrates into the grain, and extracts its virtues. 
On the contrary, hard waters astringe and bind the 
power of the malt, so that its virtue is not freely com- 
municated to the liquor. There are some who hold 
it as a maxim, that all water that will mix with soap 
is fit for brewing, which is the case with most river- 
water; and it has been frequently experienced, that 
when the same quantity of malt iias iDeen used to a 
barrel of river-water, as to a barrel of spring-water, 
tiie brewing from the former has excelled the other in 
strength above five degi-ees in twelve months keep. 
It is likewise to be observed, that the malt was not 
only the same in (piantity for one barrel as for the 
other, but was the same in quality, having been all 
measured from the same heap. The hops were also 
Ihe same, both in quality and quantity, and the time 
of boiling equal in each. They were worked in the 
name manner, and tunned and kept in the same cellar 



BREWING. 333 

This is the most demonstrable and nndeniable ])roof 
that tlic difference took place from the difference o\ 
the quality of the water. 

Various experiments have been tried by gentlemen 
iii different counties to ascertain the truth of this very 
essential difference in malt liquors, arising from the 
quality of the water; but after all, they have been 
left in a state of perplexity. 

One circumstance has greatly puzzled the ablest 
brewers, and that is, when several gentlemen in the 
same town have employed the same brewer, have had 
the same malt, the same hops, and the same Avater, 
and brewed in the same month, and broached their 
drink at the same time, yet one has had beer exceed- 
ing fine, strong, and well-tasted, while the others 
have had hardly any worth drinking. In order to ac- 
count for this very singular difference, three reasons 
may be advanced. First, it might arise from the dif- 
ference of the weather, which might happen at the 
several brewings in this month, and make an alteration 
in the working of the liquors. Secondly, the yeast, 
or barm, might be of different sorts, or in different 
states, wherewith these liquors were worked; and, 
thirdly, the cellars might not be equally adapted for 
the purpose. The goodness of such drink as is brew- 
ed for keeping, in a great measure depends on the 
proper form and temperatiu'e of the cellars in which 
it is placed. 

Beer i \de at Dorchester, which in general is 
greatly adi; ved, is, for the most part, brewed with 
(;halky-watL which is to be had in most parts of that 
co)mty ; and is the soil is generally chalk, the cellars 
being dug in 'hat dry soil, contribute to the good 
keeping of their drink, it being of a close texture, 
and of a drying quality, so as to dissipate damps; for 
it has been found by experience that damp cellars are 
in;urious to the keeping of liquor, as well as iniurions 
to the casks. 

Water that is natural\y of a hard (quality may be, 
uj I'lWiio degree, softened by exposing it to the air and 



3^4 BREWING. 

sun, and putting into it some pieces of soft cluilk to 
infuse; or, when the water is set on to boil, in order 
to be poured on the inalt, put into it a quantit)- of 
bran, which Avill take oil' some part of its sharpness, 
ajid make it better extract the virtues of the malt. 



SECT. VI. 

Of the Quality of the Malt and Hops most proper 
to be chosen for Brewing, with some necessary 
Observations on the Management of each. 

There are two sorts of malt, the general distinc- 
tion belvveen which is, that the one is high, and the 
other low dried. The former of these, when brewed, 
produces a liquor of a deep brown colour; and the 
other, which is the low dried, will produce a liquor of 
a pale colour. The first is dried in such a manner as 
rather to be scorched than dried, and is much less 
wholesome than the pale mall. It has likewise been 
found by experience, that brown malt, although it 
may be well brewed, will sooner turn sharp than the 
pale ; from whence, among other reasons, the latter is 
entitled to pre-eminence. 

We have farther proofs of this distinction from 
various people, but particularly one : — A gentleman, 
who has made the Art of Brewing his study for many 
years, and who gives his opinion and knowledge in 
words to this purpose, says, brown malt makes the 
best drink when it is brewed with a course river ^vater, 
such as that of the Thames about London ; and that 
likewise being brewed with such water makes very 
good ale ; but that it will not keep above six months 
without turning stale, even thougli he allows fourteen 
bushels lo the hogshead. He adds, that he has tried 
the higli-drieil malt to brew beer with for 1-veeping and 
hopped it accordingly; and yet he could never brew it 
so as to drink soft and meilosv like that brewed with 
pale malt. There is, he says, an acid quality in the 
high-dried malt, which occasions those who drink it to 



BREWING 335 

he i^i'eatly troubled with tli.it disorder called the heart 
burn. 

What we have here said witli respect to malt, refers 
only to that made of barley ; for wheat-malt, pea-malt, 
or high coloured liquor, will keep some yeai's, and 
driuk soft and smooth, b :i tliey are very subject to 
have the lla\'Oiir of mum. 

Malt high dried should not be used in brewing till 
it has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it will 
then yield mucli stronger drink than from the same 
quantity ground but a short time before it is used. 
On the conti'ary, pale malt, which has not received 
much of the hre, must not remain ground above a 
week before it is used. 

With respect to hops, the newest are by far the best. 
They will, indeed, remain very good for two years, 
but after that they begin to decay, and lose their fla- 
vour, unless great quantities are kept together, in 
which case they will keep good much longer than in 
small quantities. In order the better to preserve them, 
they should be kept m a very dry place, contrary to 
the practice of those who deal in them, who making 
self-interest their first consideration, keep them as 
damp as they can to increase their weight. 

It will happen, in the course of time, that hops will 
grow stale, decayed, and lose their natural bitterness ; 
but this defect may be removed, by imbagging them, 
and sprinkhug tliem with aloes and water. 

From what has been said, it is evident that every 
one of the particulars mentioned should be judiciously 
chosen before yo;i commence brewing, ctherwise you 
will sustain a loss, which .will be aggravated by your 
labours being in vain. It is likewise to be observ^ed, 
t'lat the yeast or barm with which you work your 
lifjuor, must be well considered, for otherwise, even by 
that alone, a good brewing may be totally destroyed. 
Sie always particularly careful that yon are provided 
with every necessary article previous to your com- 
mencing the business of brewing; for if the wort waits 
•or any thing that shoulil be immediately at hand, it 
will be attended wit!i \er7 had consequences. 



3JG BREWING. 

SKCT. VII. 

The Process, or Practical Part of Breioing. 

IIavincj, in (he |>rec('iliii<i; sections, fully explained 
tilt' neccssarv j)rec-antions to be taken previons to tlie 
rommencemcnt of this very important bnsiness, Ave 
shall now proceed to give a concise detail of every 
thing that is necessary to be f)bserved and attended to 
in the regnlar process of it, from the malt being lirst 
malted, to the liquor being t»n-ned olf for the cellar. 

Your utensils being all properly cleansed and scald- 
ed, your malt ground, your water in the copper boil- 
ing, and vom- })enstatf well set, you must then proceed 
to mash, by putting a snflicient quantity of boiling wa- 
ter into your tub, in which it nuist stand until the 
greater j)art of the steam is gone off, or till you can 
see your own shadow in it. It will be then necessary 
that one person should ])our the malt gently in, while 
another is carefully stirring it; for it is equally essential 
that the same care should be observed when the mash 
is thin as when thick. This being effectually done, 
and having a sufficient reserve of malt to cover the 
mash, to prevent evaporation, you may cover your tub 
\\'\l\\ sacks, <5ec. and leave your malt three hours to 
<teep, which will be a proper time for the extraction 
(<f its virtues. 

iJefire you let the mash run, be careful to be pre- 
|)ari'd with a ])ail to catch the hrst Hush, as that is 
generally thickish, and another pail to be applied while 
you return the hrst on the mash, and so on for two or 
three times, or, at least, till it runs fnie. 

By this time, your coppe'r should be boiling, and a 
convenient tub placed close to your mash-tub. Let 
into it through your spout half the quantity of boiling 
water you mean to use for drawing off vour best wort; 
after whicli you must instantly turn the tap to fill up 
again, which, with a proper attention to the fire, will 
boil in due time. During such time, you must slop 
the mash with this hot wai(>r out of the conv«jnient 
til), in iiK.drrate fi'-Mntitirs, ev.-rv eight or ten minutes 



Bin: WING. 3'31 

till the whole is consumed ; and tlien let olV the re- 
maining quantity, which ^\i\\ be boiling hot, to the 
hiiishing process for strong beer. 

Ha\ iiig proceeded thus far, iill your copper, and let 
it boil as quick as possible for the second mash, Avhe- 
ther you intend it either lor ale or small beer. Being 
thus tar prepared, let oil" the remaining quantity ol' 
water into your tub, as you did for the strong beer ; 
but if you would have small beer besides, you must 
act accordingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due 
time, and letting it into the tub as before. 

With respect to the quantity of malt, twenty-four 
bushels- will make two hogsheads of as good strong beer 
as any person would wish to drink, as also two hogs- 
heads of very decent ale. The strong beer made from 
this quantity of malt should be kept two or three 
years before it is tapped, and the ale never less than 
one. If your masli is only for one hogshead, it should 
be two hoius in running off; if for two hogsheads, two 
hours and a lialf; and for any greater quantity, three 
hours. 

Particular attention must be paid to the time of 
steeping your mashes. Strong beer must be allowed 
three hours ; ale, one hour ; and, if you draw^ small 
beer after, half an hour. By this mode of proceeding, 
your boilings will regularly talie place of each other, 
which will greatly expedite the business. Be careful, 
in the course of mashing, that it is thoroughly stirred 
from the bottom, and es})ecially round the muck-basket, 
for, being well shaken, it will prevent a stagnation of 
the whole body of the mash. Tins last process de- 
mands peculiar attention, for w ithout it your beer will 
certainly be foxed, and, at best, will have a very dis- 
agreeable flavour. 

In the preparation for boiling, the greatest care must 
be taken to put the hops in with the hrst wort, or it 
will char in a few minutes. As soon as the copper is 
full enough, make a good lire under it; but be careful 
in filling it to leave room enough for boiling. Quick 
boiling is part of the business that requires very par 



|53^J IJRE^VING. 

liciil.ir altcntioii. Croat (caution sliould likewise be 
observed wIrmj tlie liqu«)r begins to swell in waves in 
tlie copper, if you ha\ e no attendant, be particular 
attentive to its motions; and being j^rovided with an 
iron rod of a proper lengtli, crooked at one end, and 
iajT'T^ed at the otlier, tiien with the crook voii are ena- 
bled to open the furnace, or copper-door, and with 
the other ( nd j)ush in tlie damper witl;out stirring fronj 
yom station; but on the approach of the first swell 
you will have sijllicier.t time to proportion your fire, ;is 
care should be taken that it is not too fierce. When 
the boil is properly got under, you rnay increase the 
fire so that it may boil briskly. 

In order to ascertain the proper time the liquor 
should boil, you may make use of the following ex- 
pedient : take a clean copper bowl disli, dip out some 
of the liquor, and when you discover a working, and 
the hops sinking, then conclude it to be sufficiently 
boiled. Long and slow boiling is not only pernicious, 
but it likewise \vastes the liquor; for the slower itboih 
the lower it drops and singes to your copper; whereas, 
quick l)oi!ing has a cop.trary effect. K.ssence of malt 
is extracted by length of boiling, by which you can 
make it to the thickness of honey or treacle. In some 
parts of Yorkshire tliey value their liquor for its 
great strength, by its atl'ecting the brain for two or 
three days after intoxication. This is the effect of long 
boiling; for in that county they boil liquor for three 
hours; and wiuit is still worse, Avhen it sinks in the 
copper, from tbe waste in boiling, they every now and 
then add a little fresh >\ort, wliich, without doubt, must 
produce stjtgjiation, aiul, consequently, impurities. 

When your licnior is properly boiled, be sure to tra- 
verse a small quantity of it over all the coolers so as 
to gvt a j)roj)er (piantity cold immediately to set to 
work; but if (he airiness of your brewhouse is not suf- 
ficient to expedit a ([uantity soon, you must traverse 
a second (p.iantity over the coolers, and then Ivt itinu:) 
sliallow tubs. Put these iiilo any passage w here there 
is a Ihorougb. (h-a.fl of :ur. but na here no rjiiu or othe? 



BREtVING. 339 

wet can get to it. Then let off' the quantity of two 
baring- tubsfuU from the first one, the second and liiird 
coolers, which may be soon got cold, to be ready lor a 
speedy working, and then the remaining part that is in 
your copper may be cpiite let out into tiie lirst cooler. 
In the mean time mend the lire, and also attend to tlie 
hops, to make a clear passage through the strainer. 

Having proceeded thus far, as soon as the liquor is 
done running, return to your business of pumping; but 
be careful to remember, that, when you have got four 
or five pails full, you then return all the hops into the 
copper for the ale. 

IJy this time the small quantity of liquor traversed 
over your coolers being sufficiently cooled, you must 
proceed to set your liquor to work, tlie manner of doing 
which is as follows : 

Take four quarts of barm, and divide half of it into 
small vessels, such as clean bowls, basins, or mugs, add- 
ing thereto an equal quantity of wort, which should be 
almost cold. As soon as it ferments to the top of the 
vessel, put it into two pails, and when that works to 
the top, put one into a baring- tub, and the other into 
another. When you have half a baring-tub full toge- 
ther, you may put the like quantity to each of them, 
and then co\er them over, until it comes to a fine white 
head. This may be perfectly completed in three hours, 
and then put those two quantities into the working 
guile. You may now add as much wort as you have 
got ready ; for, if the w^eather is open, you cannot Avork 
it too cold. If you brew in cold frosty weatiier, keep 
the l)rew house warm : but never add hot wort to keep 
the liquor to a blood heat, that being a bad maxim ; 
for hot wort put to cold, as well as cold to hot, is so 
intem])erafe in its nature, that it stagnates the proper 
operation of the barm. 

Be particularly careful that your barm be not from 
foxed beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in 
its T\o"king; for in that case it is likely to carry v»ith it 
till' contagion. If your barm be flat, and you cannot 

procure that which is new, the method of recovering 

29 



IJ'lO BREWING. 

ts \vorkin<; i>, by putting to it a pint of warm sweet 
wort, of vour lirst Icltiiig ulV, the heat to be about lialf 
the degree of iiiilk-u arm . then give the vessel tlial 
eontains it a shaive, antl it will soon gatiier strengtJi, 
and be lit for use. 

With res])eet to tlie quantity of hops necessary to ])e 
used, rememl)er that half a j)ound of good hops is sufli- 
eient for a bushel of inalt. 

The last, and nio^st sim])le operation in the business 
of brewing is, that of tunning,, the general methods 
of doing wb'Vh are, either by having it carried into 
the cellar on men's shoulders, or conveying it thither 
by mearis of leathern pipes commonly used for that 
purpose. 

Your casks being perfectly clean, sweet and dry, and 
placed on the stand ready to receive the liquor, first 
skim oft" the top l)arm, then proceed to fill your casks 
quite full, and imniediately bung and peg them close. 
Bore a hole Avith a tap-borer near the summit of the 
stave at the same distance from the top, as the lower 
tap-hole is from the bottom, for working through thai 
upper hole, which is a clean and more eft'ectual method 
than working it over the cask ; for, by the above me- 
thod, being so closely confined, it soon sets itself into a 
convulsive motion of working, and forces itself fine, 
provided you attend to the filling of yom' casks five or 
six times a day. This ought to be carefully attended 
to, for, by too long an omission, it begins to settle, and 
being afterwards disturbed, it raises a sharp fermen- 
tation, which produces an incessant workingof a spu- 
rious froth that may continue for some weeks, and, 
after all, gi\e your beer a disagreeable taste. 

One material caution necessary to be kept in remem- 
brance is this : that however careful you may be in at- 
tending t") all the preceding particulars, yet if your 
casks are not kept in good order, still the brewing may 
be spoiled. New casks are apt to gi\ e liquor a bad 
laste, if they are not ^^ell scalded and seasoned several 
days successively before they are used ; and old casks, if 
they stand any time out of use, are :\r.t to grow musty 



i 



uifEhiNo. 341 

Having thus gone through the practical part of brew- 
ing, and brought the liquor from the mash-tub to the 
cask, ^vc shall now proceed to 

SFXl. VIII. 

Containing the proper Management of Malt Liquors, 
ivith some necessary Observations on the Whole. 

In order to keep strong beer in a proper state of pre- 
servation, remember, that when once the vessel is 
broached, regard must be paid to the time in which it 
may be expended ; for, if there happens to be a quick 
draught for it, then it will last good to the very bottom ; 
but if there is likely to be but a slow draught, then do 
not draw off" quite half before you bottle it, otherwise 
it will grow Hat, dead, or sour. 

In proportion to the quantity of liquor which is en- 
closed in one cask, so will it be a shorter or longer 
time in ripening. A vessel, which contains two hogs- 
heads of beer, will require twice as much time to per- 
fect itself as one of a hogshead ; and it is found, by ex- 
perience, that no vessel should be used for strong beer 
(which is intended to be kept) less than a hogshead, 
as one of that quantity, if* it is tit to draw in a year, 
will have body enough to support it for two, three, 
or four years, provided it has a sufficient strength 
of malt and hops, which is the case with Dorchester 
beer. 

With respect to the management of small beer, the 
first consideration should be to make it tolerably good 
in quality, which, in \arious instances, will be found 
truly economical; for if it is not good, servants, for 
whom it is principally calculated, will be feeble m 
summer time, incapable of strong work, and subject 
to various disorders. Besides, when the beer is bad. 
a great deal will be thrown away; whereas, on the 
contrary, good wholesome drink will be valued, and 
consequently taken care of It is advisable therefore, 
where there is a sood ccllarinj!^, to brew a stock of 



'342 BREWING. 

small beer in March or October, or in l^oth months, to 
bo kept, if possible, in hogsheads. 

The beer brewed in r>Farch should not be tapped 
till October, nor that brewed in October till the March 
following; having tins regard to the qe.antity, that 
a family, of the same number of working people, will 
drink at least one third more in summer than in 
winter. 

In order to fine beer, some people, vs ho brew a\ ith 
high dried barley malt, put a bag, containing about 
three pints of wheat into every hogshead of liquor, 
which has had the desired eflect, and made the beer 
drink soft and mellow. Otliers again, liave put about 
three pints of wheat-malt into a hogsiiead, which has 
produced the like effect. 

But all malt liqnors, however well they may be 
brewed, may be spoiled by bad cellaring; l3e subject 
to ferment in the cask, and consequently tnrn thick 
and sour. When this happens to be the case, the best 
way of bringing the liquor to itself is, to open the bung- 
hole of the cask for two or three days ; and if that does 
not stop the fermentation, then jnit in about two or 
three pounds of oyster shells, Avashed, dried well in an 
oven, and then beaten to a fine powder. After you 
have pnt it in stir it a little, and it Avill soon settle 
the liquor, make it fine, and take oif the sharp taste. 
When you find this efi'ected, draw it oft' into another 
vessel, and put a small bag of wheat, or wheat-malt 
into it, in proportion to the size of the vessel. It 
sometimes occurs, that such fermentations Avill happen 
in liquor from a change of weather, if it is in a bad cel- 
lar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itself, and 
grow mellows 

In .some country places remote from principal towns, 
it is a practice to dip whisks into yeast, then beat it 
well, and hang up the whisks, with the yeast in them, 
to dry; and if there be no brewing till two months 
aiterwards, the beating and stirring one of the whisks 
in new wort aaIU soon raise a working or fermentation. 
It IS a rule, tb it all licpior should be worked well in 



BREWING. <Ji3 

the tun, before it is put into the vessel, otherwise it 
will not easily grow line. Some follow the rule of 
beating down the yeast pretty often while it is in tlie 
tun, and keep it there working for tvvo (n- three days, 
observing to put it into the vessel just vrlicn the yeast 
begins to fall. Tiiis liquor is in general very line, 
whereas, on the contrary, that which is put into tlie 
vessel soon after it is brewed will be several months 
before it comes to a proper state of perfection. 

We have before ta!i:en notice of the season for brew 
ing malt liquors to keep. But it may not be improper 
further to observe, that if the cellars are subject to the 
heat of the sun, or warm summer air, it will be best 
to brew in October, tluit the liquor may have time to 
digest before the warm season comes on ; and if cel- 
lars are subject to damp, and to receive water, the best 
time will be to brew in March. Some experienced 
brewers always choose to brew with the pale malt in 
March, and the brown in October; supposing, that tlie 
pale malt, being made with a less degree of lire than 
the other, wants the summer sun to ripen it; and so, 
on the contrary, the brown, liaving had a larger share 
of the lire to dry it, is more capable of defen.ding itself 
against the cold of the winter season. 

All that remains further to be said relative to the 
management of malt liquors, we shall preserve in 

SECT. IX. 

Containing the proper Method of bottling Malt 
Liquors. 

xVs a necessary preparation for executing this busi- 
ness properly, great attention must be paid to your 
bottles, \\hich must first l)e well cleaned and dried; 
for wet bottles will make the liquor turn mouldy or 
mothery, as it is called ; and by wet bottles .-i great 
deal of good beer is frequently spoiled. Thou.gli tlit? 
bottles may be clean and dry, yet, if the corks ar*^ not 
new and sound, the liquor will be still liat)le to bo 
damaged; for. if the air can get into tlie bottles, the 
2<)* 



344 BREWING. 

liquor Avill grow flat, and never rise. Many wlio have 
flattered themselves tiiey knew how to be saving, by 
using old corks on tiiis occasion, have spoiled as much 
liquor as stood them in tour or live pounds, only for 
want of laying out three or four sliiliings. If bottles 
are corked as they should be, it will be diflicult to draw 
the cork without a screw; and to secure the drav.ing 
of the cork without breaking, the screw ought to go 
through the cork, and then the air must necessarily Ihid 
a passage where the screw has passed. If a cork had 
once been in a bottle, though it has not been drawn 
with a screw, yet that cork will turn musty as soon as 
exposed to the air, and will conununicate its ill flavour 
to the bottle in which it is next [)ut, and spoil the liquor 
that way. In the choice of corks, take those that are 
soft and clear from specks. You may also observe, in 
the bottling of liquor, that the top and middle of the 
hogshead are the strongest, and will sooner rise in 
the bottles than the bottom. When yon begin to 
bottle a vessel of any liquor, be sure not to leave it 
till all is completed, otherwise it will have dilTerent 
tastes. 

If you tind a vessel of liquor begins to gi'ow flat 
whilst it is in common draught, bottle it, and into every 
bottle put a piece of loaf sugar of about the size of a 
w^alnut, wliich will make it rise and come to itself: 
and, to forward its ripening, you may set some bottles 
in hay in a w^arm place; but straw^ will not assist its 
ripening. 

If you sliould have the opportunity of brewing a 
good stock of small beer in March and October, some 
of it may be bottled at the end of six months, putting 
into every bottle a lump of loaf sugar ; which, in the 
summer, will make it a very pleasant and refreshing 
drink. Or if you happen to brew in summer, and 
arc desirous of biisk small beer, as soon as it is done 
working, bottle it as before directed. 

Where your cellars happen not to be properly calcu- 
lated for the preservation of your beer, you may use 
%he following expedient • Sink holes in the ground, put 



B REAVING. 345 

into them large oil-jars, and fill up the eartli close about 
the sides. One of the jars will hold about two dozen 
bottler;, and will keep the liquor in proper order ; bur 
rare must be taken that the tops of the jars are kept 
close covered. In winter time, when the \\ eather is 
frosty, shut up all the lights or windows of your cellars, 
and cover them clo^e with horse-dung, which will keep 
your beer in a very proper and temperate state. 

We shall close this section and chapter with that 
information, which, if properly attended to, may be 
found, at times, of the highest convenience and utility. 

To Preserve Yeast. 

If you ^vish to preserve a large stock of yeast, which 
will keep and be of use for several months, either for 
brewing, or to make bread or cakes, you must follow 
the.se directions. When you have plenty of yeast, and 
are apprehensive of a future scarcity, take a quantity 
of it, stir and work it well with a whisk, until it be- 
comes liquid and thin. Then get a large wooden platter, 
cooler or tub, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay 
a thin layer of yeast on the tub, and tin-n the mouth 
downw-ards, that no dust may fall upon it, but so that 
the air may get under to dry it. When that coat is 
very dry, then lay on another, and so on till you have 
a sufficient quantity, even two or three inches thick, 
always taking care that the yeast is very dry in the 
tub before you lay any more on, and this will keep 
good for several months. When you have occasion to 
use this yeast, cut a piece otf, and lay it into warm 
water; then stir it together, and it will be fit for use. 
If it is for brewing, take a large liandful of birch tied 
together, dip it into the yeast, and hang it up to dry. 
In this manner yon may do as many as you please; 
but take care no dust comes to it. When your beer is 
fit to set to work, thrown in one of these, and it will 
make it w)rk as wel. as if jou had made fresh yeast. 

No. 15. 2 X 



34f. 



CHAPTER XXX. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING POULTRY, f^i. 

THERE arc various reasons why the experienced 
and prudent housekeeper .should be properly acquaint- 
ed with this necessary preparation to the Art of 
Cookery. In London every article is generally trussed 
by tlio pouKrrer of whom it is bought ; but it frequent- 
ly happens that, either from inexperience or negligence 
of tiie servants, and want of knowledge in the cook, 
the article appears on the table with disgrace. Another 
very substantifd reason for the cook having this know 
ledge is, that the families in which they serve are fre- 
quentlv in counties where there are no poulterers, and 
consequently they are under the necessity of killing 
and trussing their own poultry. To be prepared, 
tlierefore, for the execution of this business, we recom- 
mend a proper attention to tlie following general rules 
be careful that all the stubs are perfectly taken out; 
and when yoii draw any kind of poultry, you must be 
very particular to avoid breaking the gall, for should 
that happen, no means can be used to take away tliat 
bitterness, which will totally destroy tlie natural and 
proper taste of the article dressed. Great care should 
likewise be taken that you do not break the gut join- 
ing to the gizzard ; for, should this happen, the inside 
will be gritty, and the whole spoiled. These are to be 
attended to as general matters. We shall proceed to 
particulars, begiiming with 

Turkeys. 

Having properly picked your turkey, break the leg 
bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings from 
the thigh, ihr w hich jnirpose you must hang it on a 
hook flistened against the wall. Cut off the neck close 
to the hack ; but be careful to leave the crop skin suffi- 
ciently long to turn over the ba.'k. Then proceed to 
take out the crop, and loosen the liver and gut at tlie 
throat inid witJi your middle fmger. Then cut off the 



TRUSSING POULTRY. 34*7 

vent, and take out the gut. Fnll out tlie gizzard with 
a crooked, sharp pointed iron, and the liver will soon 
follow; but be caretVil not to break the gal!. Wipe 
the inside perfectly clean with a wet cloth; having 
done which, cut the breast-bone through on each side 
close to the back, and draw tlie legs close to the crops. 
Then put a cloth on the bi-east, and beat the high bone 
down with a rolling-pin till it lies Hat. If the turkey 
is to be trussed for boiling, cut the legs oif; then put 
your middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the 
legs, and put them under the apron of the tm-key. 
Put a skewer into the joint of the wing and the middle 
joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the 
other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be 
put in the pinions; but be careful first to open the 
gizzard and take out the filth, and the gall of the liver 
Then turn the small end of the pinion on the back, 
and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep 
them in their places. If the turkey is to be roasted, 
ieave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the wing, 
tuck the legs close np, and put the ske^ver through 
the middle of the legs and body. On the other side, 
put another skewer in at the sniall part of the leg. 
Put it close on the outside of t!ic sidesman, and put 
the skewer through, and the same on the other side. 
Put the liver and gizzard bet^veen the pinions, and 
turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, 
close above the pinions, another skewer through the 
body of the turkey. 

If turkey-poults, they must be trussed as follow : 
take the neck from the head and body, but do not re- 
niove the necK skin. They are drawn in the same 
manner as a turkey. Put a skewer through the joint 
of the pinion, tuck the legs close np, run the skewer 
through the middle ©f the leg, through the body, and 
so on the other siiie. Cut off the under part of the 
bill, twist the skin of the neck round, and put the head 
on the point of the skewer, with the bill- end forwards. 
Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, and the 
legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each 



343 TRUSSING 

side. Pa^s the skewer llirough all, and cut off the 
toe-nailf?. It is very eonimon to lard them on the 
breast. Tlie liver avid gizzard may or may not be 
used, as you like?, 

Foivls. 
When you have properly picked your firvvls, cut oil 
the neck close to the back. Then take out tlie crop, 
and with your middle fm<^er loosen the hver and other 
matters. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat 
the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin. If your fo^yI 
is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck 
them down close to the legs. Put your finger into 
the inside, and raise the skin of tlie legs; then cut a 
hole in the top of the skin, and put the legs inider. 
Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the 
middle of the leg close to it, pnt the skewer through 
the middle of the leg, and throngh the body; and then 
do the same on the other side. Having opened the 
gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the li\er. 
Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinion, turn the 
points on the back, and tie a string over the tops of the 
legs to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl 
is to be roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the 
pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put 
the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through 
the body, and do the same on the other side. Put an- 
other skewer in the small of the leg, and through the 
sidesman; do the same on the other side, and then 
put another through the skin of the feet. Yon must 
not forget to cut off the nails of the feet. 

Chickens. 
With respect to picking and drawing, they nmsl 
be done in the same manner as fowls. If they are to 
be boiled, cut off the nails, give ttie sinews a nich on 
each side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and 
then peel the rump. Draw the skin tight over the legs, 
put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring 
the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer throngh 
the middle of the legs and through the body, and d > 



POULTRY. 34<9 

the same on the other side. Clean t!ie gizzard, and 
take out th: gall in tlie liver; pr.t tiicni into the pinions, 
and turn the points on the back, if your chickens are 
to be roasted, cnt off the feet, put a skewer in the first 
ioint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg 
close, llun the skewer througli the middle of the leg, 
and thi'ough the body, and do the saaie on the other 
side*. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the 
legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the 
skewe through. Having cleaned the liver and giz- 
zard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the 
back, and pull the breast skin over the neck. 

Geese. 

Having picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut 
the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the first joint. 
Then cut off the neck almost close to the back ; but 
leave the skin of the neck long enough to turn over 
the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the 
end. With your middle finger loosen the liver and 
other matters at the breast end, and cut it open be- 
tween the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw 
out all the entrails, excepting the soul. Wipe it out 
clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breast bone flat 
with a rolling-pin. Put a skew^er into the wing, and 
draw the legs close up. Put the skewer through the 
middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same 
on the other side. Put another skewer in the small 
of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it 
through, and do the same on the other side. Cutoff 
the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for 
the passage of the rump, as by that means it will much 
better keep in the seasoning. 

Ducks are trussed in the same manner, except that 
the feet must be left on, and tiu'ned close to the legs. 

Pigeons. 

When you have picked them, and cut off the neck 
close to the back, then take out the crop, cut off the 
vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leavr 



350 TRUSSING 

tlie liver for ;i pigeon has no gall. If tlicy are to be 
roasted, ciit otV tho toes, cut a slil in one of the legs, 
and put t! c other through it. Draw the leg tight to 
Lhe pinion, put a skewer tin'ougli the pinions, legs, juid 
body, and with tlie handle of the knife break the breast 
Hat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, 
and turn the points on the ]>ack. If you intend to make 
ci pie of tliem, you must cut the feet oil" at the joint, 
turn the legs, and stick them in the sides close to the 
pinions. If they are to be stewed or boiled, they must 
be done in the same manner. 

Wild Fowl. 

Having picked them clean, cut off the neck close 
to the back, and with your middle hnger loosen the 
liver and guts next tlie breast. Cut off the pinions at 
the first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the 
rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly 
with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails,- 
and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in 
the pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run 
the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pin- 
ion. Fh'st cut off the vent, and then put the rump 
through it. The directions here given are to be fol- 
low^ed in trussing every kind of w^ild fowl. 

Fhcrisants and Partridges. 

Having picked them very clean, cut a sht at the 
back of the neck, take out ihe crop, and loosen the 
liver and gut next the breavSt v.ith your fore-hnger, 
then cut off tlie vent and draw them. Cut off the 
pinion at the lirst joint, and wipe out the inside with 
the pinion you have cut oil'. Beat the breast bone Hat 
witii a roriing-|)in, pui a skewer in the })inion, and brin<; 
tiu" tnid;]!(' of the legs close. Then run the skewer 
thfovigh the legs, body, and the other pinion, twist 
tlie head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the 
bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the 
sidesman, and p^;t Ibe loi^s close ori each side the apr-.m, 
nnd thei' \' \\\ I'li;' s!vt'\'(tT (iiro'Lc'i all. If von ^vould 



POULTRY. 351 

wish to make the pheasant (if it is a cock) have a plea- 
sing appearauc(3 on the table, leave the beautiful fea- 
thers on the head, and cover tb.eni gently with paper 
ro prevent their being injured by the heat of the live 
You may likewise save the long feathers in the tail to 
stick in the rump wlien roasted. If tiiey are for boil 
itii^, |)ut the legs in tlie same m;mncr as in trussing a 
foul. 

All kinds of moor game must l)e triissed in the same 
manner. 

Woodcocks and Snijjes. 

As these birds are remarkably tender to pick, espe- 
cially if they should not happen to be quite fresh, the 
greatest care must be taken how you handle tiiem ; for 
even the heat of the hand will sometimes take off the 
skin, which will totally destroy the beautiful appear- 
ance of the bird. Having picked them clean, cut the 
pinions of the first joint, and with the handle of a knife 
beat the breast-bone Hat. Turn the legs close to the 
thighs, and tie them together at the joints. 5*ut the 
thigh close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pin- 
ions, and run it through the thighs, body, and the 
other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, 
and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the 
bill close to the breast. Remember, that these birds 
must never be drawn. 

Larks. 

When you have picked them properly, cutolFtheii 
heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat tho 
breast- bone Hat, and turn tlie feet close to the legs, 
and put one into the other. Draw^ out the gizzard, 
and run a skeu'er through the middle of the bodies. 
Tic the skewer fast to the spit when yon p^t them 
down to roast. Wheat ears, and other small birds, 
•nust be done in the same manner. 

Haines. 

Having cut off the four legs at the first joint, laise 
Ihe skin of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. 
Leave the tail whole draw tlie skin over the back, 
no 



3b2 TRUSSING POULTRY. 

and slip out the fore-logs. Cut the skhi off the neck 
and head; but take care to loa\'e the cars on, and 
mind to skin them. Take out tiie liver, lights, d:c. 
and be sure to draw the gut out of the vent. Cut the 
sinews that lie imder the hind-legs, bring them up to 
the fore-legs, put a skewer through the hind-leg, then 
through the fore-leg under the joint, run it tlirough the 
body, and do the same on the other side. Put another 
skewer through the thick part of the hind-legs and 
body, put the head between the shoidders, and run a 
skewer through to keep it in its place. Put a skewer 
in each ear to make them stand erect, and tie a string 
round the middle of the body over the legs to keep 
them in their place. A young fawn must be trussed 
just in the same manner, except that the ears must be 
cut off. 

Rabbits must be cased much in (he same manner 
as hares, only observing to cut off tlie ears close to the 
head. Cut open the vent, and slit the legs about an 
inch up on each side of the rump. Make the hind-legs 
lie flat, and bring the ends to the fore-legs. Put a 
skewer into the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and 
through the body. Bring the head round, and put it 
on the skewer. Ifyouwantto roast two together, 
truss them at full length with six skewers run through 
them both, so that they may be properly fastened on 
the spit. 



^ ^a.jiiv \r ii.A;-» y\jT 







/d-^l./ JA^/ 




^^aMrM>u/ 




H'ltttf 



t'^' ^^^lofw 



ART OF CARVING. 



NOTHIX^i can be more disagieeable to a person who is placed 
b< the head of a table, and whose business it is to pay the necessary 
honours to guests invited, than to be defective in not being properly 
able to carve the ditferent articles provided. From the want ol 
knowledge in this particular, it must naturally become no less painful 
to the person who undertakes the task, than uncomfortable to those 
who are waiting for the compliment of being served. Abilities and 
dexterity in this art are striking qualifications in the eyes of every 
company, and are material instruments of forming the necessary and 
polite graces of the table. 

The instructions here laid down by words, are materially enliven- 
ed by the representations of the respective articles described, so that 
the young and inexperienced may, by proper attention to the descrip- 
tion, and reference to the plates, scon make themselves proficients 
in this useful and polite art. 

We shall commence the subject with describing the method of 
carving 

A Roast Foivl. 

In the plate the fowl is placed in the centre, and is represented as 
lying on its side, with one of the legs, wings, and neck-bone, taken 
off. Whether the fowl is roaslcd or boiled, it must be cut uj) in the 
same manner. A roasted fowl is sent to table nearly in the sanie 
manner as a pheasant, excepting that the [)heasant has the head 
tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the head cut off 
before it is dressed. In a boiled fowl (which is represented in the 
same plate) the legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly ; but, 
previous to its being sent to table, the skewers are withdrawn. The 
most convenient method of cutting up a fowl is to lay it on your 
plate, and, as you separate the joints, m the line n, h, d, put them 
into the dish. . 

The legs, wing-;, and merry-thouijht being removed, the next thinc^ 
is to cut olfthc neck-bones. This is done by putting in the knife at 
{T, and passing it under the long broad part of the bone in the line ff; h, 
then lifting it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the 
bone, which cleaves to the breast-bone. All the parts being thus 
separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back, by cut- 
ting through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down 
to the vent or tail. Then lay the back upwards on your plate, fix 
your fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife in the 
Sue h, c, c, and pressing it down, lift up the tail, or lower part of the 

2T 



.i54 CARVING. 

hack, and it will readily *1\\ ide with the help of your knife in the line 
/;, e, r. In the next place, lay the lower part of the back upwards in 
your plate, with the rump from you, and cut off the sidc-boncs, (or 
sidesmen, as they arc {feudally culled,) by forcing the knife through 
the rump-bone in the line f',y', when your fowl will be completely 
cut up. 

Boiled Find, 
^V^E have before observed, that a boiled fowl i.s cut up in the same 
manner as one roasted, hi the representation of this the fowl is com- 
plete, whereas in that part of the other it is in part dissected. Those 
parts, which are generally considered as the most prime, are the 
wings, breast, and merry-thought, and next to these the neck-bones, 
and sidesmen. The legs of boiled fowls are more tender than those 
that are roasted ; but every part of a cliicken is good and juicy. As 
he thigh bones of a chicken are wcry tender, and easily broken with 
the teeth, the gristles and marrow render them very delicate. In the 
joiled fowl the leg should be separated from the drum-stick, at the 
joint, which is easily done, if the knife is introduced into the hollow, 
and the thigh-bone turned back from the leg-bone. 

Partridge. 

The Partridge is here represented as just taken from the spit; but 
before it is served up, the skewers must be withdrawn. It is cut up 
in the same manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the 
lines ^/, i, and the merry-thought in the line c. d. The prime parts 
of a partridge are, the wings, breast, and merry-thought. The wing 
is considered as the best, and the tip of it reckoned the most delicate 
morsel of the whole. 

Pigeons. 

Here are the representations of two, the one with the back upper- 
most, and the other with the breast. — That with the back uppermost 
is marked No. 1. and that with the breast No. 2. Pigeons are some- 
times cut up in the same manner as chickens. But as the lower 
part, with the thigh, is in general most preferred, and as, from its 
small size, half a one is not too much for mrst appetites, they are 
seldom carved now, otherwise than by fixing the fork at the point a, 
entering the knife just before it, and dividing the pigeon into two, 
cutting away in the lines a, h, and a, r, No. 1, at the same time bring- 
ing the knife out at the back, in the direction a, Ir, and (i, c, No. 2. 

A Pheasant. 
In the representation here given, the bird appears in a propel 
etate for the spit, with the head tucked under one of the wings. 
When laid in the dish, the skewers drawn, and the bird carried to 
table, it must be carved as follows : fix your fork on that part of the 
brc;ast where the two dots are marked, by which means you will have 
a full conunand of the bird, and can turn it as you think proper. 
Slice down the breast in the lines '/, l>, and then proceed to take ofT 
the leg on one side, in the direction d, c, or in the circular dotted 



CARVING , 35? 

line b, d. This done, cut off" the whig on tlie same side, in the line 
r, (I. When you have sejjarated the leg and wing on one side, do 
the same on the other, and then cut ofT, or separate from tlie breast- 
bone, on each side of the breast, the parts you before sUced or cut 
down. Be very attentive in taking off the wing. Cut it in the 
notch n, for if you cut too near the neck, as at g, you will find vour- 
self interrupted by the neck-bone, from whence the wing must be 
separated. Having done this, cut off the merry-thouglit in the line 
f, g, by passing the knife under it towards tlie neck. With respecL 
to the remaining parts, they are to be cut up in the same manner as 
directed for a roast fowl. The parts most admired in a pheasant are, 
first, the breast, then the wings, and next the merry-thought. 

A Goose. 

Let the neck-end lie before you, and begin by cuttmg two or 
three long slices on each side the breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the 
bone. Cut these slices from the bone, then take off the leg, turning 
the goose up on one side, putting the fork through the small end ot 
the leg bone, and pressing it close to the body, which, when the knife 
has entered at rl, will easily raise the joint. Then pass the knife 
under the leg in the direction rl, e. If the leg hangs to the carcase, 
at the point f, turn it back with the fork, and, if the goose is young, 
it will easily separate. Having removed the leg, proceed to take off 
the wing, by passing the fork through the small end of the pinion, 
pressing it close to the body, and entering the knife at the notch c, 
and passing it under the wing in the direction c, d. This is a very 
nice thing to hit, and can only be acquired by practice. When you 
have taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the 
other. Then cut off the apron in the liney, f, g^ having done which, 
take off the merry-thought in the line /, h. All the other parts are to 
be taken off in the same manner as directed for the fowl. A goose 
is seldom quite dissected, unless the company is very large, in which 
case the above method must be pursued. 

The parts of a goose most esteemed are, the slices from the 
breast; the fleshy part of the wing, which may be divided from the 
pinion ; the thigh-bone, (or drum-stick as it is called,) the pinion, and 
the side-bones. If sage and onions are put into the body of the goose, 
(which is by most approved of,) when you have cut off the limbs, 
draw it out with a spoon at the place from whence the apron is taken, 
rind mix it with the gravy, which should first be poured boiling hot 
into the body of the goose. Some people are particularly fond of the 
rump, which, after being nicked with a knife, is peppered and salted, 
and then broiled till it is of a nice light brown; and this is distin- 
guished by the epithet of r/ devil. The same is likewise done by the 
ruiTw- of a turkey. 

Haunch of Venison. 

First cut it across down the bone, in the line b, c, a, then turn the 

dish with the end d, towards you, put in the point of the knife at c, 

and cut ft down as deep as you can in the direction r, d, so that the 

two strokes will then form the resemblance of the letter T. Having 

30* 



556 CAKviNc;. 

cut it thu3, you may cut as many slices ai are necessary, ace rding 
to the number of the company, cutliu;; tliem cither on the right or 
left. As the fat lies deeper on the lott between d and a, those who 
are fond of fat, (as is the case with rt^ost admirers of venison,) the best 
flavoured and fattest slices will be found on the left of the line r, d, 
supposing the end tl turned towards you. In cutting the slices, re- 
member that they must not be either too thick or too thin. ^Vith 
each slice of lean add a proper proportion of fiit, and put a suiricient 
quantity of gravy into each plate. Currant-jelly should alwa_ j be on 
the table for those who choose it. Indeed this is generally used by 
most. 

A Fore-Quarter of Lamb. 

This joint is always roasted, and when it comes to table, before 
you can help any one, you must separate the shoulder from the breast 
and ribs, (or what is by some called the coast,) by passing the knife 
under, in the direction c, g, c/, e. The shoulder, being then taken 
off, the juice of a lemon, or Seville orange, should be squeezed upon 
the part it was taken from, a little salt added, and the shoulder re- 
placed. The gristly part must (hen be separated from the ribs in (he 
line f, g, and then all the preparatory business to serving will be 
done. The ribs are generally most esteemed, and one, two, or more 
may be easily separated from the rest, in the line a, b : but to those 
who prefer the gristly par(, a piece or two may be cut off in the lines 
h, i, &c. If you should have a fore-quarter of grass lamb that runs 
large, the shoulder, when cut off, must be put into another dish, and 
carved in the same manner as a shoulder of muKon. 

A Pig. 

A Piu IS seldom sent whole to table, but is usually cut up by the 
cook, who takes off (he head, spli(s the body down the back, and 
garnishes the dish with the chops and ear^. 

Before you help any one at table, first separate the shoulders I'rom 
the carcase, and then the legs, according to the direction given by 
the dotted line r, fi, r. The most delicate part of a pig is that about 
the neck, which may be cut off in the line /", g. The next best parts 
are the ribs, which may be divided in (he line a. b, &c. and (he o(hers 
are pieces cut from the legs and shoulders. Indeed (he bones of a 
pig are li((le else (han grislle, so (hat it may be cut in any part with- 
out (he least difficulty. It produces such a variety of delicate bits, 
that the fancies of most may be readily gratified. 

Shoulder of Mutton. 

This is a very fine joint, and by many preferred to (he leg, it being 
very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and producing many nice bits. 
The figure No. 1, represents it as laid in the dish wi(h the back up- 
permost. When it is first cut, it should be in the hollow part of it in 
the direction r/, b, and (he knife should be passed deep to the bone. 
The gravy will then run fast into the dish, (he part will immediately 
cpen, and many fine slices will be readily cut from it. The prima 



CAUVING. 357 

pait c: she lut lies on the outer edge, and is tt. be cut out in thin slices 
ill the direction c f. If many are at table, and the hallow part cut in 
the lino a, h, is •aten, some very good and delicate slices may be cut 
out on each side the ridge ot' the blade-bone, in the direction c, rl. 
The line between these two dotted lines, is that in the direction of 
which the edge, or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be cut 
across. 

No. 2 represents the under-side, where there are two parts very 
full of gravy, and such as many prefer to the upper-side. One is a 
deep cut in the direction g, //, accompanied with fat, and the other all 
lean, in a line from / to /,-. The parts above the shaidi are coarse 
and dry ; but yet some prefer this to the rich and more juicy parts. 

Ji Saddle uf Mutton. 

This is by some called a chine of mutton, and consists of the two 
loins together, the back-bone running down the middle of the tail. 
When you cuve it you must cut a long slice in either of the fleshy 
parts, on the side of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. There is 
seldom any great length of tail left on, but if it is sent up with the tail, 
many will be fond of it, and it may be easily divided into several 
pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, which are about an 
inch apart. 

A Cod's Head. 

Fisii in general requires very little carving, the fleshy parts being 
those principally esteemed. A cod's head and shoulders, when ia 
season, and properly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome dish. 
When cut, it should be done with a spoon fish-trowel, and the parts 
about t'ne back-bone on the shoulders 'ate ihe most firm and best. 
Take ofTa piece quite down to the bone, in the dnection a, b, c, <•/, 
putting in the spoon at '/, r, and with each slice offish give a piece 
of the 'ound, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the 
meat oT which is thin, and a little darker coloured than the body of 
the fish itself, this may be got by passing a knife or spool underneath, 
in Ihe direction '/, f. About the head are many delicate parts, some 
fine, kernels, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly parts lie 
a!)i)tit the jaw bcjnes, and the firm parts within the head. Some are 
fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewise may be got, 
bv putting a spoon into the mouth, in t'ne direction of the line r. 

A Piece of Boiled Salmon. 
TiiK fattest and richest part of salmon is the belly ; it is therefore 
customary to give to those who like both, a thin slice of each; the 
one cut out of the belly in the direction r, 'I, the other out of the beck 
in the line a, h. Most people who are fond of salmon generally 1 ke 
the skin, so that the slices must be cut thin with the skin on. 

A Mackarel. 
Slit the fish all along the back in the line '/, r, b, and fake ofTlha 
whole side, as far as the line A r, not too near the head, as the meal 



358 CARVING. 

above tlie gills is (^'encrally black, and ill flavoured. The roe of a male 
fish is soft, but that of the female is hard, and full nf small cgija. 

A CaJfs Head. 
In carving this, begin by cutting the flesh quite along the cheek 
bone, in the direction r, 6, from whence several handsome slices may 
be taken. In the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of 
the throat-sweet-brcad, which may bo cut into, in the line r, r/, and 
which is esteemed the best part in the head. Many like the eye, 
which is to be cut from i'.s socket r/, by forcing the point of the knife 
down to the bottom of one edge of the socket, and cutting quite 
round, keeping the point of the knife slanting towards the middle, so 
as to separate the meat from the bone. The palate is also reckoned 
by some very delicate : it lies on the imder side of the roof of the 
mouth ; is a wrinkled, white, thick skin, and may be easily separated 
from the bone by a knife, by raising tb.e head with your left hand. 
There is also some nice tender bits on the under side, covering the 
under jaw, and some delicately gristly fat to be pared off about the 
ear, ^. In the upper-jaw is the large tooth behind, which, having se- 
veral cells, and being full of jelly, is called the sweet-tooth ; but its 
delicacy is more in the name than any thing else. When yon serve 
any person with a slice of the head, you must inquire whether they 
choose to have any of the tongue and brains, which are generiiHy 
served up in a separate dish. A slice from the thick part of the 
tongue, near the root, is the best. 

Leg of Mutton. 

A LEG of wether IMutton, which is by far the best flavoured, may 
be readily known by the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above 
the letters r/, *'. This joiiif, whether boiled or roasted, is carved in 
the same manner. The person who does this business should turn 
the joint towards him as it here lies, the shank to the left hand ; then 
holding it steady with his fork, he should cut it deep on the fleshy 
part, in the hollow of the thigh, quite to the bone, in the direction 
11, b. Then will he cut it right through the kernel of fat called the 
p'>/;f''.v p//'. nf which many are particularly fond. The most juicy 
parts of the leg are in the thick part of it, from the line «, !>, upward, 
towards <■ ; but many prefer the drier part, about the shar.k or 
knuckle, which some call the venison part, from its eating so short ; 
but this is certainly the coarsest part of the joint. The fat lies 
chiefly on the ridges e, r, and is to be cut in the direction c,f. In 
order to cut out what is by some called the crainp-bone, and by others 
the gentleman's bone, you must take hold of tiie shank-bone witii 
your left hand, and cutting down to the thigh-bone at the point <■/, 
then passing the kuife under t!ie cramp-bone, in the direction d, r, ii 
may easily be cut out. 

A Ham. 

A \i\n is cut two ways, either across in the line h, r, or in the 'Cir- 
cular line in the middle, taking out a small t^iece as at a, and calling 
thin slices in a circular direction, thus cnlargmg it by degrees. Thia 



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CAKVING. 



359 



last method is, to preserve tiie gravy and keep it moist, which ia thus 
prevented from runniiig out. 

Piece of S''loiii of Beef. 
As a whole sirloin is too large for families in general, so we have 
here only r(j)rosL>nted a part, either of wiveh must be carved in the 
eaine maimer. It is drawn as standing up in the dish, in order to show 
the inside, or upper part ; but wlien sent to table, it is always laid 
down, so tliat tiio part described by the letter r, lies close on the 
dish. Tlio part r, J, then lies uppermost, and the line a, b, under- 
neath. The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer, and of a 
closer texture, than the fleshy part underneath, which is by far the 
most tender, and of course preferred by many. To those who like 
the upper side, the outside slice should be first cut off, quite down to 
the bone, in the direction r, 'L Some people, however, instead of 
beginning to carve at either end, cut it in the middle of the most 
leshy part. For thtise who prefer the inside, several slices may be 
^ut in the direction of the line a, li, pressing the knife down to the 
bone. But wherever the slices are cut they must be of a moderate 
substance, neitiier too thick nor too thin. 

Edge-hone of Beef. 
Tiis outside of this joint is generally injured in its flavour from 
the water in which it is boiled; a thick slice must therefore be cut 
off, the whole length of the joint, beginning at ", and cutting it all 
the way even and through the whole surface, from n to b. The soft 
fat, which resembles marrow, lies on the back below the letter d, 
and the firm fat must be cut in thin horizontal slices at the points c ; 
but as some people like the soft, and some the lirm fat, it is neces- 
sary to a-k tlie company which they prefer. The upper part, as it 
is generally placed in the dish, is the handsomest, fullest of gravy, 
most tender, antl enriched with fat ; but there are some who prefer 
a slice fr m the under-side, though it is lean and dry. The ske(Ver 
that keeps the niciit properly together when boiling is here shown at 
(I. This should be drao.n out before it is served up ; or, if it is ne- 
cessary to leave the skewer in, it should be a silver one. 

Brisket of Beef 

This is a part always boiled, and must be cut in the direction a, b, 
quite down to the bone, aft r having cut ofTthe outside, or first slice, 
which must be cut |)relty tiiick. The fat cut with this slice is a firm, 
gristly fat, but a softer f.it is found underneath for those who pre- 
fer .t. 

Breast of Veal. 

A breast of veal must be cut across quite through, dividing thft 
gristles from the rib-bonos : this is called cutting the brisket from the 
ribs. The brisket may be cut into pieces as wanted ; for some pre- 
fer this part to the ribs. There requires no great direction how to 
separate the ribs, since nothing more is required than to put the 
knife in at the top between any two, and continue downwards till 



360 CARVING. 

they are separated. Reinumbcr to give a piece of the sweetbread 
to every one you liulp, as that is reckoned particularly delicate. 

Fillet of Veal. 

This part of the calf is the same as that called ihe biiltuck iii tli< 
ox. Many peoole think the outside slice of a fillet of veal a delicacy, 
because it is most savoury ; hut as some think otherwise, the ques- 
tion should be asked before any one is helped. If no one chooses 
the (irst slice, lay il in the dish, and the second cut \\ill be exceeding 
white and delicate ; but take care to cut it even and close to (he 
bone. A fillet of veal is always stuffed under the skirt or flap, with 
a pudding, or lorcemeat. This you must cut deep into, in a line 
with the surface of the fillet, and take out a thin slice. This, and a 
thin slice of fat cut from the skirt, must be given to each person 
at table. 

Spare/ ib of Pork. 

This is carved by cutting out slices in the thick part at the bottom 

'' the bones. When the fleshy part is all cut away, the bones, which 

u,e esteemed very sweet picking, may be easily separated. I^ew 

people admire the gravy of pork, it being too strong for most 

stomachs. 

Jiahbits. 

To luilacr a rabbit, the back must be turned downward, and the 
apron divided from the belly. This done, slip your knife between 
the kidneys, loosening the flesh on each side. Then turn the belly, 
cut the back crossways between the wings, and draw your knife 
down both sides of the back-bone, dividing the sides and legs from 
the back. Observe not to pull the leg too violently from the bone, 
when you open the side ; but with great exactness lay opea the sides 
from scut to shoulder, and then put the legs together. 

Woodcocks. 

To tliigh a woodcock, you must raise the legs and wings in the 
Siamc manner as you 4J0 a fowl, only open the head for the brains. 
In like manner you tliigk curlews, plovers, or snipes, using no other 
sauce than salt. 

JSIallards or Ducks. 

To tinbracf a mallard or duck, first raise the pinions and legs, but 
do not cut them ofl*. Then raise the merry-thought from the breast, 
and lace it down both sides with your knife. 

Buttock of Beef 

This part is always boiled, and requires little directions as to the 
rarving of it. A thick slice should be first taken ofl" all round it. 
When you come to the juicy and prime part of it, you must be careful 
to cut it even, that it may have a graceful figure, should it be brPM^bi 
lo table cold the next day. 



THE NEW 

ria.rviii.ir receipt-book 



(Herman method of Clnnfi/ing and Preserving .Fresh Biit.er. 

A VALUABLE article, the original communication of an ingenious 
traveller, who resided many years in Germany, " The peculiar ad- 
vantage of clarified butter," says this gentleman, " though but little 
known in England, is unequalled for most culinary purposes, for fry- 
ing, and for general use in long sea-voyages, where no fresh butter 
Is to be had. Indeed this purified butter is equal to the best virgin 
oils of Florence, Aix, or Lucca, for frying in perfection. At Vienna, 
and in many other parts of Germany, it is sold in all the shops. The 
best is purified at the dairies, during the cheapest season, and sent 
to market in barrels and tubs ; it is then clarified. Set a large clean 
tinned copper vessel on a trivet, over a charcoal fire ; and put in the 
new butter, before it has taken any ill taste, but not in large portions 
at a time. With the quantity of about fifty pounds, add a large 
onion peeled and cut crossway. The whole must be closely v.atched, 
Lnd kept skimming the moment it begins to boil ; and the fire then 
lackened, that it may only simmer for five minutes ; after which, if 
t cannot be suddenly removed, the fire to be immedialely extinguish- 
■d. The onion then taken out, the butter to be left standing till every 
mpurity sinks to the bottom ; as all that has not risen to the skimmer 
lever fails doing. Large tin canisters, stone jars, or wooden ves- 
ols made air-tight, holding about fifty pounds each, should receive 
he liquid butter, and be kept closely covered up for use. This but- 
er should be constantly taken out as it is wanted, with a wooden 
poon ; neither the hand, nor any metal, ever suffered to touch it." 

Qxieen Elizabcth^s Cordial Electuary. 

Boil a pint of the best honey ; and, having carefully taken off 
ill the scum, put into the clarified liquid a bundle of hyssop which 
las been well bruised, previously to tying it up, and let them boil to- 
gether till the honey tastes strongly of the hyssop. Then strain out 
the honey very hard ; and, putting into if a quarter of an ounce eacn of 
powdered liquorice root and aniseed, half that quantity of pulverized 
elecampane and angelica roots, and one pennyweight each of finely 
beaten pepper and ginger, let the whole boil together a short time, 
being well stirred all the while. After which, pour it into a gallipot, 
or a small jar, and continue stirring till it is quite cold. Keep it co- 
r«red up for use ; and, whenever troubled with straitness at the sto- 
mach, or shortness of breath, take some of the electuary on a brui- 
sed stick of liquorice, which will speedily afford relief. This is 
said to have been Queen Elizabeth's favourite remedy for all oppres- 
sion at tne sioinacn and shortness of breath, w ith which complaints 
her majesty had been much afHirted ; 5^he lived till seventy-three 
years of age. 



4 THK Ni;\V KA««LI 

Genuine i'V/flz-'i- lialsuin 

Pgt lour ounces ofsarsaparilhi cut in short pieces, two ounces of 
Cliina root sliced thin, and an ounce of Virginian snake-ueed cut 
small, with one quart ol" spirits of wine, in a two quart bottle. Set 
it in the sun, or any equal degree of heat, shaking it two or three 
tiiiies a day, till the s|)irit be tinctured of a line golden yellow. Then 
riear oifthe infusioii into another bottle ; and, putting in eight ounces 
:>r giMTi guaicum, set it in the sun, or other similar heat ; shaking it 
vtrry often, till all the gimi be dissolved, except the dregs, which will 
yonerally be about ten or twelve days. It must now be a second time 
cleared from the dregs ; and, having received an ounce of Peruvian 
balsam, be well shaken, and again placed in the sun for two days ; 
after which, an ounce of balm of Gilead being added, it is to be once 
more shaken together, and finally set in the sun for fourteen days, 
when it will become quite fit for use, and keep many years. The'.e 
were, formerly, scarcely any complaints, either external or internal, 
for which this admirable balsam was not considered as an effectual 
remedy. It has, in truth, many virtues, when i)roperly made ; but, 
as a mere vulnerary, for common flesh wounds, the simj)ler and 
cheaper balsams, sold under the names of Friar's IJalsain, Turling- 
ton's balsam, and the Ti-aumatic Balsam of the Loiidon Dispensatory, 
are usually efficacious. Neither of these, however, nor any of the 
oilier compound balsams, or restorative drops, formed on the basis 
of this true Friar's balsam, are so well adapted for internal use ; and 
some of them, as commonly manufactured for sale, are quite unfit 
for any such purpose. The dose of genuine Friar's balsam, for 
consumptions, or any inward ulcer, &c. is about half a table spoon- 
ful, on a lump of sugar, or in any liquid vehicle, once or twice a day, 
according to the urgency of the case, using moderate exercise while 
in the habit of taking it. In any soreness of the stomach, and for 
some coughs, twenty or thirty drops occasionally taken, often give 
complete relief; and, in almost every weakness or debility, they may 
be advantageously resorted to, as well as by persons afflicted with 
scorbutic complaints, and other taints or impurities of the blood. 

Excellent Lozenges for the Heart hnrn. 

Take calcined oyster shells, as found on the sea-coast, where tbey 
are so blanched by time as to appear, both within and without, of the 
whiteness of mother of pearl ; dry them uell by ho fire, and then 
heat and sift them as fine as possible. In half a ])ound of this pow- 
der mix half a poimd of loaf sugar well beaten and sifted ; and wot 
it with a spoonful or two of milk and water, so as to form a very stifl 
paste. Then mould the whole into neat lozenges, of any fornti 
or size, and bake tliem very dry in so slack an oven as not to dis- 
colour them ; this will be effected after every thing else is drawn. 
These lozenges so efrectuallv dcsiroy that acidify in the stomach 
which causes the heart-burn, iis not only to prevent the di^a::reeable 
sensation it occasions, but greatly io ]>romote digestion. Their pow- 
er in neutralizing acids may he easily tried, by dissolving one of them 
in a irlass of the shar|>est vinegar. 



KECKirr-BUOK. 5 

Decoction oj the Bettrds of Leeks, for the Stone o) d GraveL 

CvT olFa large handful of the bcaids of leeks ; and "Jut them in 
!( jtot or |)i|)kni witli two quart.-i of water, covered closely up, and to 
l.i- kept simmering till the liquor is reduced to a quart ; then to be 
poured oft', and drank every morning, noon, and evening, about the 
tiiird part of a pint each time. IJalf the quantity, or less, may be 
sutiicient for children, according to their respective ages, and the vio- 
leiire of the disease. The most desperate condition of this painful 
disorder has frequently been cured by this seemingly-simple remedy 
iu little more than a month. It is best to keep making it fresh every 
two or three days, which indeed is the case with most vegetable de- 
coctions. 

Instant Relief for a Pain and Lax State of the Bowels. 

Take twelve drops of laudanum in half a gill of spirituous cin- 
namon-water; or, if that cannot be immediately had, in the best 
brandy. This will seldom fail to give instant relief; but, should it 
so fail in the first instance, it may be repeated in about an hour. 

The true Daffifs Elixir. 

The popular medicine sold under this name is differently made by 
different venders. The following, however, is considered as the ge- 
nuine receipt for making it. — Take five ounces of aniseeds, three 
ounces of fennel-seeds, four ounces of parsley-seeds, six ounces of 
Spanish liquorice, five ounces of senna, one ounce of rhubarb, three 
ounces of elecampane-root, seven ounces of jalap, twenty-one 
drachms of saff'ron, six ounces of manna, two pounds of raisins, a 
quarter of an ounce of cochineal, and two gallons of brandy. Stone the 
raisins, slice the roots, and bruise the jalap. Then mix the whole to- 
gether ; and, after letting them stand close covered for fifteen days, 
strain out the elixir. So favourite a remedy has Daffy's elixir been 
for all colicky pains, during the last hundred years, that many fa- 
milies have been enriched by its preparation and sale ; a few of whom 
there is reason to believe, have used not half the ingredients above 
enumerated. The cheap stuff", commonly sold as Daffy's elixir, is 
little more than an infusion of aniseeds, liquorice, and jalap, in the 
coarsest and most fiery malt spirit, lowered with common water. 

Infallible Remedy for the Ague. 

jMix a q\iarter of an ounce each of finely powdered Peruvian bar*:, 
grains of paradise, and long pepper, in a quarter of a pound of trea 
ere ; of which mixture, t .ke a third part immediately as the cold fii 
commences, ^va^hing it cown with half a quartern of the best Frer.cn 
brandy. As the cold fit goes off, and the fever approaches, take a 
third part, with the like quantity of brandy ; and, on the following 
morning, fasting, swallow the remainder, and the same quantity of 
brandy as before. This excellent electuary, which is said never to 
tail, perlecfly cured an afflicted person, after being most grievously 
tormented for the greater part of four years, having almost every 
fit accompanied by delirium, during which period mnumerablo othe» 



O TMK NKW K\..iiL.f 

remedies had been tried in vniii. The person fn m whom it was 
obtained, declared ibat be bud cured many bundrcd [tersons, and ne- 
ver mot witb but a single instance wbere tbe tbree doses did not irn- 
iiKidialely cflect a cure, and even tbcn a second tbree completely 
prevailed. To cbildren under nine years of age, only balflbe above 
quantities must be given. 

Bayleifs Patent Cakes for Liquid Blacking. 

This blacking bas been tbe scource of an ample fortune to tbe 
patentee, tbe celebrated Mr. Bayley, of Cockspur-strcet, Cbaring- 
cross, wbose exclusive rigbt bas lately expired. It is made, accord- 
ing to the specilication in the patent office, with one part of the 
gummous juice which issues from the slirub called goat's thorn, du- 
ring the months of June, July, and August ; four parts of river- 
water ; two j)arts of neat's-foot, or some other softening and lubri- 
cating oil ; two |)arts of a deep blue colour, prepared from iron and 
copper ; and four parts of brown sugar candy. Tbe water is then 
evaporated till the composition becomes of a proper consistence, 
when it is formed into cakes of such a size as to produce, when 
dissolved in hot water, a pint of liquid blacking. 

An Incomparahh Fumigation, or T^apour^fur a Sore Throat, 

Take a pint of vinegar, and an ounce of myrrh ; boil them well 
together about half an hour, and then pour tbe liquid into a basin. 
Place over tbe basin the large part of a funnel which fits it ; and, 
the small end being taken into tbe mouth of tlie patient, the fume 
will be inhaled, and descend to the throat. It must be used as 
hot as it can possibly be borne ; and should be renewed every quar- 
ter of an hour, till a cure is effected This excellent remedy will 
seldom or never fail, if resolutely persisted in, only for a day or 
two, and sometimes a very few hours, in the most dangerous state 
of either an inflammatory or putrid sore throat, or even a quinsy. 

Dr. Fullar's Vapour for a (Quinsy. 

TaivK powdered pepper, one ounce ; milk, a quart ; and boil them 
to a pint and a half. Put the whole into a glass bottle with a small 
neck, and let the vapour be received as liot as can be endured 
with open mouth. " This euporiston," says that learned pbysican, 
" more powerfully than any gargle whatsoever, attenuates, melts 
down, and draws fortii, lough phlegm ; whicb., by obstructing the 
glands and sj)ongy flesh, and hindoriug the free passa<re of blood 
imd humours through them, occasions the inflauimatiuu and tumour ; 
md, therefore, it more eftectually takes off" tiiis perilous distemper 
than auy of them." This, it is tis be remarked, is only recommend- 
ed for a quinsy. It afTords good professional autliority, however, 
f >r tlic preferable use of such vaporous inhalements over common 
gargles and other medicines, in dangerous complaints of the throat, 
'lillli-. &c. 



RKCElPT-noOK. 4 

Fine lied Ink. 
lic.iL four ottices of best i;i~!pings of Hriizil-wood, and one ounce 
ea< li of crysta.o cf tartar and powdered alutn in a quart of the 
clcaiest rivcr-watcr, till half the fluid be evaporated. While it is 
yet sufficieutly warm, dissolve in it an ounce each of double-relined 
sugar, and the wliitest gum arabic. This rine ink is said to preserve 
its lively red hue much longer than any other known preparation for 
the same purpose. The common red ink, which is certainly far 
cheaper, and will do very well for most occasions, is made by 
infusing four ounces of J3razil-wood raspings with two drachms of 
powdered alum, in a pint each of vinegar and rain-water, for two or 
three days, and afterward boiling them over a moderate fire till a 
third part of the fluid has evaporated. It is then to stand two or 
three days ; and, being filtered through blottmg-paper, to :>" pre- 
served in closely-corked bottles for use. 

Method of Cleansing and Polishing Rusty Steel. 
After, well oiling the rusty parts of the steel, let it remain two 
or three days in that state, then wipe it dry with clean rags, and po- 
lish with emery or pumice-stone, on hard wood. Frequently, how- 
ever, a little unshtcked lime, finely powdered, will be sufficient, after 
the oil is cleaned off. Where a very high degree of polish is re- 
quisite, it will be most effectually obtained by using a paste com- 
posed of iinely levigated blood-stone and spirits of wine. Bright 
bars, however, are admirably cleaned in a few minutes, by using 
a small portion of fine corn emery, and afterward finishing with 
flour of emery or rotten-stone ; all of which may be had at any 
ironmonger's. This last very simple method will, perhaps, render any 
other superfluous. 

A fine Balsamic Elixir for confirmed Coughs and Consumptions. 
Take a pint of the finest old rum, two ounces of balsam ot 
Tolu, an ounce and a half of Strasburg turpentine, an ounce 
of powdered extract of Catechu, formerly called Japan earth, 
and half an ounce each of gum guaiacum and balsam of copavia. 
Mix them well together in the bottle ; and keep it near the 
fire, closely corked, for ten days, frequently well shaking it du- 
rmg that time. Afterwards let it stand two days to settle, and pour 
ofl' the clear for use. Half a pint of rum may then be poured over 
the dregs ; and, being treated for twelve days in the same manner 
as t!ie first, will produce more eli.vir, and equally good. The dose 
n)av be from fifty to a hundred, or even two hundred drops, acc;ird- 
infT to tlie urgency of the case, taken twice or thrice a day in 
a wine glass of water. 

Admiral Gascoigne''s Tincture of ithuharh. 
Take half an ounce each of powdered rhubarb, myrrh, cochineal, 
and hierapicra, and put them in a bottle with one quart of the best 
double-distilled aniseed water. When it has stood four days, 
it is fit' for immediate use . and may be taken, a small wins- 
Has3 at time, for any pain? in the s'omach or bowels. In th« 



8 TMR NKW <^AM1I,Y 

valuable CO ..ection whence Ihis is extracted, is tlie following me- 
inorandiim — " There is not a heltcr receipt in the world !" 

German Cure for a Consumption. 

Take a pound of pure honey, and let it boil gently in a stewpan ; 
then, having washed, scraped clean, and finely grated with a sharp 
grater, two large sticks of fresii horse-radish, stir into the honey 
as much as you possibly can. It must remain in a boiling state about 
five minutes, but stirred so as not to burn ; after which, put it into 
small earthen pots, or ajar, and keep it covered ii[) for use. Two or 
three table spoonsful a day, or more, according to the strength of 
the patient, and some time persisted in, is said to perform wonders, 
even where there is a confirmed phthisis pulmonalis, or consumption 
of the lungs. It is also serviceable in all coughs where the lung8 
are greatly affected. 

Easy and effectual Cure for fVens. 

Put a quantity of salt and water into a saucepan, and boil it four 
or five minutes ; with which, while tolerably hot, bathe the entire 
surface of the wen, however large ; and continue so to do, even 
after it is cold. Every time, before applying it, stir up the salt de- 
posited at the bottom of the basin, and incorporate it again with the 
water. In this manner the wen must be rubbed well over, at least 
ten or twelve times every twenty-four hours ; and, frequently in less 
than a fortnight, a small discharge takes place, without any 
pain, which a gentle pressure soon assists to empty the whole con- 
tents. In particular instances, it is necessary to continue the appli- 
cation several weeks, or even months : but it is said always finally 
to prevail, where resolutely persisted in, and that without occasioning 
pain or inconvenience of any kind, there being not the smallest pre- 
vious notice of the discharge. A person who had, for many years, 
been an object of attraction in the streets of London, from having 
a most enormous wen hanging on his neck and breast, being sudden- 
ly seen, with astonishment, completely divested of it, was asked 
how he had lost it, without the appearance of any scar or other di-s- 
figurement ; when he declared, that he had been happily relieved of 
his incumbrance, in a very few months, by simply rubbing it with 
the old rusty fat and brine of bacon. This undoubted fact may serve 
as a hint, should the still simpler preparation of salt and water ever 
seem likely to prove insufficiently powerful. 

Genuine Lozenges for the Files, as used ??i the West Indies, 
and other warm climates. 

Take four ounces of fine powdered loaf sugar, two ounces of flour 
of sulphur, and a sufficient quantity of mucilage of gum tacamahaca 
dissolved in red rose water to form the whole into a paste for lozen- 
ges. Having made it up in lozenges of the desired form, dry them 
before the fire, or in an oven after every thing has been drawn. Take, 
of these lozenges, about the weight of a drachm daily. This is a 
mos valuable medicine for that disagreeable and dreadful complaint; 



KECEIPT-BOOK. 9 

which prevails much, and is a peculiarly grievous and even danger- 
ous disease in the West India Islands, as well as in most other hoi 
-climates. It is, however, generally found (ompletely cfiicacious 
even in those regions. 

Easy Alcthod of cleaning Paper Hangings. 

Cut into eight half-quarters a quartern loaf two days old ; it must 
neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having 
blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of a 
good pair of bellows, begin at (he top of the room., holding ihe crust 
in the. hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half 
a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is complete- 
ly cleaned all round. Then go again round, with the like sweeping 
stroke downward, always commencing each successive course a lit- 
tle higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be 
finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently 
make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution iiiust 
be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt clean- 
ing it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, 
must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all 
necessary. 

Sir John HilVs Specific for the Scurvy. 

Sir John's own description of this excellent remedy will convey 
its virtues. " There is in the hands of one person only a medicine 
of very great efficacy in the cure of the scurvy, leprosy, and other 
desperate cutaneous disorders. Its effect is certain ; but it is kept 
at so exorbitant a price, that only persons of fortune can have the 
advantage of it. 

" A gentleman of great worth and goodness applied some months 
since to the person who possesses it, in favour of two daughters of a 
country clergyman. He did not desire it should be given, hut re- 
quested it at any moderate price. He was refused. A boKle of the 
medicine was afterward procured, and put into my hands to exa- 
mine. It appeared to me, on many trials, to be an infusion of the root 
of the common great water-dock, and nothing else. I have made an 
infusion of that root, which perfectly agrees with it in taste, smell, 
and colour, and, what is more important, in virtues. 

" This is no modern invention ; the plant was long since known 
and celebrated : it is the famous lUiUnniita (intiqiionnn rein of au- 
thors, concerning which such wonders arc recorded in the cure of 
scurvies ; but, like many other English plants, it has long been neg- 
lected. 

" I beg you to make this public for the service of those whom the 
common remedies have failed to cure, and whose fortunes do not 
aift)rd their gomg to the person hitherto possessed of the secret for 
redress. The method of infusion and decoction both will answer 
better than that by infusion alone, and what I have directed to several 
who have found great benefit fioiu it, is made thus : 

" Weigh half a pound of the fresh root of great water-dock, cut 
it into thin slices, put it i:i a stone jar, and poi:r upon it a jralhin o'" 



TlIK NF.W FAMILY 

boiling water, cover it up, and let it stand twcnty-fonr hours : then 
put the whole into a saucepan, and boil it about cif^ht minutes. After 
this let it stand to be quite cold, then sliain it (-fl"\vilhout squeezing. 
Driniv a hult'|)int basin of this twice a-day, avoid high seasoned food) 
and use moderate exercise. 

" The great good I have seen from fhis makes rnc desirous thai 
all may know of it v.ho want it. 

" I am, Sir, your humble servant, 

"John Hill." 

Russian Method of preserving Green Fens for If inter. 

Put into a kettle of boiling hot water any quantity of fresh-shelle- 
green peas : and, aftc letting them just boil up, pour them into ;. 
colander. When the liquor has drained away, empty them into a 
large thick cloth, cover them over with another, make them quite dry, 
set them once or twice in a cool oven, to harden a little ; after which 
put the peas into paper bags, and hang them up in the kitchen for 
use. To prepare them, when wanted, they are first well soaked 
for an hour or more ; and then boiled in cold water, with a few sprigs 
of mint, and a little butter. Green peas arc sometimes kept in Eng- 
land, by scalding and drying alone, without putting them in an oven ; 
they are afterward bottled like gooseberries or damsons covered by 
clarified suet, closed up with cork and resin, and either buried in the 
earth or kept in a cool cellar ; being boiled, when wanted, till quite 
tender, with mint, butter, and sugar. This last article, at least, is 
certainly an improvement on the Russian method. A dish of green 
peas, thus prepared, has sometimes agreeably surpiised friends at a 
Christmas dinner. 

Admirable Wash for the Hair, said to Thicken its Growth 
better than ]3car''s Grease. 

Take two ounces each of rosemary, maidenhair, southernwood, 
myrtle berries, and hazel bark ; and burn them to ashes on a clean 
hearth, or in an oven : with these ashes make a strong ley, with 
which wash the hair at the roots everyday, and keep it cut short. 
This lixivium, or wash, it is said, will destroy the worm at the root ; 
and prove far more effectual than bear's grease or pomatum, which 
rather feed than destroy that unsuspected enemy to the hair. 
Excellent Remedy for Sivellcd Legs and a Relaxed Stomach. 
Take six ounces of the common bitter infusion, consisting of gen« 
tian root and outer rind of Seville orange, with or without coriander 
seeds ; one ounce of tincture of senna ; and a drachm of compound 
spirits of lavender. Mix them together, and take four spoonsful 
every other night on going to bed. To prevent swelled legs from 
breaking, make a decoction of marshniallow leaves, rue, camomile, 
and southernwood, boiled in a quart of ale or stale beer ; and foment 
them with flannels wrung out of the liquor, as hot as can be borne 
without scalding, throe or four times a day. After bathing, anoint 
them with a little ointment of marshmallows ; and should they even 
be broke, only cover the holes with drv lint, while bathing or foment^ 



RECF.lPT-llOOK. 



11 



.ng ihe legs, and afterwaicls dress them with the ointment, and take 
u. httle cooling pliys-e, 

Fiiie Raspberry Vinegar. 
Tills excellent article in domestic management is both grateful to 
the palate, and a very cfFectual remedy lor com[)laints in the chest. 
It is made, at very little expense, in the Ibllowing manner : Pour 
three pints of the best white-wine vinegar over a po md and a half 
of fine red raspberries, in a stone jar or china bowl, for neither gla- 
zed earthenware nor any metal must be used : the next day, strain 
the liquor over a like quantity of fresh raspberries ; and the day 
following do the same. Then drain the liquid as much as possible 
without pressing the fruit ; and pass it tlirough a cotton bag previously 
Vv'etted with plain vinegar, merely for preventing waste, into a stone 
jar, with a pound of loaf sugar in large lumps to every pint of the 
vinegar. As soon as the sugar is melted, stir the liquor, and put the 
jar into a saucepan of water, to simmer for some time ; skim it 
carefully ; and, when cold, bottle it for use. A large spoonful, in a 
small tumbler of water, with a very little sugar, makes a most plea- 
sant and refreshing beverage, either for invalids or persons in health. 

Genuine TurJingion^s Balsam. 

Tins is a very good vulnerary balsam for common uses ; and may 
be safely taken internally, where the genuine friar's balsam is not at 
hand. The receipt for making the true Turlington's balsam, or 
drops, is as follows : Take an ounce of the Peruvian balsam ; two 
ounces of the best liquid storax ; three ounces of gum Benjamin, 
impregnated with almonds ; and half an ounce each of the best aloes, 
myrrh, frankincense, angelica roots, and the flowers of St. John's 
wort. Beat all these ingredients in a mortar, and put them into a 
large glass bottle ; adding a pint and a quarter of the best spirits 
of wine. Let the bottle stand by the kitchen fire, or in the chimney 
corner, two days and nifjlits ; then decant it ofl^, in small bottles well 
corked and sealed, to be kept ready for use. The same quantity 
of spirits of wine poured on the ingredients, well shaken up, and pla- 
ced near the fire, or in some other warm situation, about six or 
eight days and nights, will serve for slight occasions, on being 
bottled in a similar manner. 

Cephalic Snuff. 

Take half an ounce each of sage, rosemary, lilies of the valley, 
and the tops of sweet marjorum, with a drachm each of asarabacca 
root, lavender flowers, and nutmeg. Reduce the whole composition 
tO a fine pow-der ; and take it like common snufl", as often as may be 
necessaiy for the relief of the head, &c. There are many more pow- 
ernd cephalic snuffs, for particular medicinal purposes, l)ut few so 
generally useful, agreeable, and innocent, to be used at pleasure. 

Cheap and excellent Composition for preserving JVeathcr- 
Boarding, Paling, and all other Works liable to be injured 
by the Weather. 
liiME, it is well ko'vn, however well b n-nf, will soon become 

^ticked by exposure in the oj)en air, or even if confined in a situa* 



12 THK NKW FAMILY 

tion not remarkably dry, so as to crumble of itself iriic •_>owcler. 
Tliis is culled air-sluckod lime, in contraiiistiuclion to that which is 
shick«:d ia the usual way by being mixed with water. For the purpose 
of making the present usefid composition to preserve all sorts of 
wood Work exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather, lake three 
parts of this air-slacked lime, two of wood ashes, and one of fine 
sand ; pass them through a fine sieve, and add as much linseed oil 
to the composition as will bring it to a proper consistence for working 
with a painter's brusli. As particular care must be taken to mix it 
perfectly, it should be ground on a stone slab with a proper muller, 
in the same manner as painters grind their white lead, &c. but, 
where these conveniences are not at hand, the ingredients may be 
mixed in a largo pan, and well beaten up with a wooden spatula. 
Two coats of this composition being necessary, the first may be 
rather thin ; but the second should be as thick as it can conveniently 
be worked. This most excellent composition for preserving wood 
when exposed to the injuries of the weather, is highly preferable to 
the customary method of laying on tar and ochre. It is, indeed, every 
way better calculated for the purpose, being totally impenetrable 
by water ; and, so far from being liable to injury by the action of the 
weather or heat of the sun, that the latter, though such a powerful 
enemy to tar and ochred palings, &c. even hardens, and conse- 
quently increases the durability of, the present proposed composition, 
which forms an article of public utility not only much cheaper than 
paint, but prodigiously more lasting. 

Art of making Brillau's incomparable Liijuid for changing 
the Colour of the Hair, 4'C. 

This is said to be the best liquid in the world for making the hair 
curl, as well as for changing that which is disagreeably sandy to a 
very pleasing colour. The method of preparing it is as follows : 
Take two ounces of scrapings of lead, an ounce of hartshorn shav- 
ings, a quarter of an ounce of litharge of gold, and a drachm of 
camphor ; put them into a pint of soft water, and let them boil for 
half an hour. When cold and fine, pour the liquid off, and add to it 
a drachm each of the sugar of lead and loscmary flowers, lioil these 
up together ; pour ofl' the liquid ; and, when fine, it is fit for im- 
mediate use. 

Dutch Method of extracting beautiful Colours from Floioers, 
Leaves, Hoots, S^-c 

Takk the flowers, loaves, or roots, whatever quantity wished, and 
bruise them nearly to a pulp ; then, putting it into a glazed earthen 
vessel, pour filtered water sufricient to cover it, adding a table spoon- 
ful of a strong solution of piu"e pot-ash to every pint of water. After 
boiling, in a proper vessel, the whole over a mooerate fire till the li- 
quor has obviously imbibed as much of the colour as can possibly 
be obtained from the pulp, decant the fluid part through a cloth or 
blotting paper, and gradually drop into it a solution of alum, which 
precipitates the colouring matter to the bottom. Having seemed the 



RECEIPT-BOOK . 13 

powder, continue to wash it in several fresh waters, and, a: ..ength, 
Altering it again through blotting-paper, dry the remaining pjwder ; 
from which prepare the finest pigments, for water colours, by tritu- 
ration on marble, with elurified gum-water, and then form them int«» 
cakes, cones, &(;. for sale. A fine violet colour is in this mannei 
prepared by the Dutch from that flower ; the most delicately rosa- 
ceous red, from the small French rose and other beautiful red roses ; 
and a most brilliant azure, from the blossoms of the corn blue-bottle. 

Excellent Remedy for the Dropsy. 
Take sixteen large nutmegs, eleven spoonsful of broom ashca 
dried and burnt in an oven, an ounce and a half of bruised mustard- 
seed, and a handful of scraped horse-radish ; put the whole into a 
gallon of strong mountain wine, and let it stand three or four days. 
A gill, or half a pint, according to the urgency of the disease and 
strength of the patient, is to be drank every morning fasting, taking 
nothing else for an hour or two after. 

Another powerful Remedy fur the Dropsy. 
Take a sufficient quantity of pelitory of the wall, put it in pump 
water, and let it simmer over the fire till reduced to half its quantity, 
then add honey to make it into a good sjriip, of which take two-thirds 
to one-third of a glass of Geneva, two or three times in a day till re- 
lieved. This actually cured the Editor's mother, after her legs had 
burst and discharged water several times ; and the cure was so ef- 
fectual, that she never had that sad disorder afterwards. 

Of the fining of Malt ZAquors. 

It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which it seldom 
fails to do in due time, if rightly brewed and worked ; but as disap- 
pointments sometimes happen, it will be necessary to know what to 
do in such cas^. 

Ivory shavings boiled in the wort, or hartshorn shavings put into 
the cask just before it is bunged down, will do much towards fining 
and keeping the liquor from growing stale. 

Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fining all sort? 
of liquors ; first beat it well with a hammer or mallet, and lay it in a 
pail, and then draw off about two gallons of the liquor, to be fined 
upon it, and let it soak two or three days ; and when it is soft enough 
to mix with the liquor, take a whisk, and stir it about till it is ail of 
a ferment, and white froth ; and frequently add the wiiites and shells 
of about a dozen eg;^?, which beat in with it, and put all together into 
the cask : then with a clean mopstick, or some such thing, stir the 
whole together ; and then lay a cloth or piece of paper over the bung 
hole, till the ferment is over, and then bung it up close : in a fcv^ 
days it will fall fine. 

But if it is wanted to fine only a small quantity, take half an ounce 
of unslacked lime, and put it into a pint of water, and stir it well to- 
gether, and let it stand for two or three hours, or till the lime settle 
to the bottom ; then pom* the water ofl'clear, and throw away the sedi- 
ment ; then take half an ounce of insinglass cut small, and boil it ir. 



14 



rut: NKU FAMILY 



the lime water till it uissolvcs ; ihm lot it cool, anJ pour it i |o the 
vessel, &c. 

To make Kldrrbcrry Jleer, or Kbulum. 

Take a hogshead of the first and strong wort, and boil in the satna 
one bushel of picked oldcrherries, full ripe ; strain olF, and when cold, 
work the liquor in the hogshead, and not in any open tun or tub ; 
and, after it has lain in the cask a'jout a year, bottle it ; and it will be 
a most rich drink, which they call Klnjluin ; and has often been pre- 
ferred to port wine, for its pleasant taste and healthful quality. 

N. B. There is no occasion for the use of sugar in tliis operation ; 
because the wort has strength and sweetness enough in itself to an- 
swer that end ; but there should be an infusion of hops added to the 
liquor, by way of preserv^ation and relish. 

Some likewise hang a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel 
While cbulum may be made with pale malt and white elderberries. 

Easy method of Drying and Preserving Currants in Bunches 
Bkat well up the whites of eggs, or a lit?le gum arabic dissolved 
in water ; and, after dipping in the bunches, and letting thera get a 
little dry, roll them in finely powdered loaf sugar. Lay them on a 
sieve in a stove to dry ; and keep turning them, and adding sugar 
till they become perfectly dried. JNot only red, white, and black 
currants, but even grapes in bunches, may be thus dried and p^-e- 
served. They should be carefully kept dry, in boxes neatly hned with 
paper. 

Dr. Stoughion^s celebrated Stomachic Elixir. 
Pare off the thin yellow rinds of six large Seville oranges, and 
put them in a quart bottle, with an ounce of gentian root scraped 
and sUced, and half a drachm of cochineal. Four over these ingre- 
dients a pint of the best brandy ; shake the bottle well, several times, 
during that and the following day ; let it stand two days more to set- 
tle, and clear it off into bottles for use. Take one or two tea-spoons- 
ful morning and afternoon in a glass of wine, or even in a cup of 
tea. This is an elegant but simple preparation, little differing from 
the compound tincture of gentian either of the London or Edinburgh 
Dispensatories ; the former adding half an ounce of canella alba, 
(white cinnamon,) and the latter only substituting for the cochineal 
of Stoughton, half an ounce of husked and bruised seeds of the 
lesser cardamom. In deciding on their respective merits, it should 
seem, that Stnughton's elixir has the advantage in simplicity, and, 
perhaps, altogether as a general and elegant stoma('hic. Indpfd, 
for some particidar intentions, both the Jjondnn and Edinburgh c./ui- 
positions may have their respective claims to preference : i;i a 
cold stomach, the cardamom might be useful ; and, in a laxative ha- 
bit, the canella all)a. As a family medicine, however, to be at all 
times safely resorted to, there is no need to hesitate recommending 
Dr. Stoughton's elixir. 

Cure for a Fimphd Face. 
Take an ounce each of liver of sulphur, roche-alum, and common 
salt ; and two drachms each of sugar-candy and spermaceti. Foucd 



HECLIPT-BOCK. 15 

and sift these articles ; then put the whole into a quart bottle, and 
add half a pint of brandy, three ounces of white lily water, and the 
oame quantity of pure spring water. Shake it well together, and 
keep it for use. With this liquid, the face is to be freely and trequent. y 
bathed ; rcniemboring always tirst to shake tl)e bottle, and, on going 
to bed, lay all over the face linen which has been dipped in it. In 
ten or twelve days at farthest, it is said a perfect cure will be effected 
of this >ery unpleasant complaint, as nothing in this composition can 
poscibiy prove prejudicial. 

Curious method ofscj^arating Gold or Silver from Lace, with- 
out hurning it. 
Cut in pieces the gold or silver lace intended to be divested of 
any thing but the pure metal ; tie it up tightly in linen, and boil it in 
soap ley, till the size appear considerably diminished : then take the 
cloth out of the liquid ; and, after repeatedly rinsing it in cold water, 
beat it well with a mallet, to extract all the alkaline particles. On 
opening the linen, to the great astonishment of those who have never 
before witnessed the process, the metallic part will be found pure and 
undiminished, in all its natural brightness, without a single thread. 

Permanent lied Ink for marking Linen. 

This useful preparation, \\hich was contrived by the late learned 
and ingenious Dr. Smellie of Edinburgh, who was originally a printer 
in that city, may be used cither with types, a hair pencil, or even 
with a pen : take half an ounce of vermilion, and a drachm of salt 
of steel; let them be finely levigated with linseed oil, to the thick- 
ness or limpidity required for the occasion. This has not only a 
very good appearance ; but will, it is said, be found perfectly to re- 
sist the effects of acids, as well as of all alkaline leys. It may be 
made of other colours, by s'.ibstituting the proper articles instead of 
vermilion. 

Portable Balls for taking out Spots from Clothes. 

Spots of grease, &c. are in general easily removed from woollen 
cloth of all descriptions by means of portable balls prepared in the 
following manner : Take fuller's earth, dried so as to crumble into 
pow der, and moisten it well with lemon juice ; then add a small 
quantity of pure pulverised pearl-ashes, and work vip (he whole into 
a thick paste. Roll this paste into small balls, let them completely 
dry in the heat of tlie sun, and they are then fit for immediate use. 
The manner of using them is, by moistening with water the spots on 
the cloth, nibbing the ball over them, and leaving it to dry in the sun . 
when, on washing (he spots with common water, and often with 
brushing alone, (he spots instantly disappear. 

^'Jrt of preparing a neivly-discovcrcd Permanent Green Pigment, 
both for Oil and Water Colours. 

A GREEN colour, at once bcautifid and durable, discovered by the 
ingenious M. Kinnman, meml)er of the Swedish Academy. The pro* 
cess by which it b produ'^*'' '^ 'l^us descriii'^'i • Dissolve, in »qua 



TH !•: N K\V K V VII I, Y 



fMlis, a sinall quantity ot* zinc ; mi. I, i.i a |:ia-i(;^i.i, /<omc stronjlji 
C'Alcitied cobalt : each solution to be inuLJe in u Uirleienl vessel, and 
to remain till the iesj)ectivc litjuids be completely saturated. Whea 
they are both ready, w.'<\ one part of the former with two parts of 
the latter; and, havinjr prepared a hot and clarilied solution of pot- 
u.^ii, |)our in a quantity exactly e([nal to the whol'^ of both the other 
solutions, for the pur|):;je of precipitating the mixture. After it has 
liiibsided, the fluid part should be decanted, and the sediment evapo- 
rated to dryness over the fire, till it assumes a green colour. It is 
nacessary, however, that it should be repeatedly washed with filtered 
waier, before it can be used ; but, tliis being etlected, it becomes lit 
for both oil and water colours, as it is sufficiently fixed to withstand 
all the etiects of the air and the sun ; which the inventor fully ascer- 
tained, by an experience of more than ten years. By means of this 
[)reparation, also the ingenious inventor adds, that painters may re a- 
drly combine their yellow and ultramarine, so as to form a most 
beautiful and permanent green. 

Stewed Oysters in French Bolls. 

Take any quantity of oysters, and wash them in their own liquor. 
Then, straining it, put it in again with them, and add a little salt, 
ground pepper, beaten mace, and grated nutmeg. Let them stew 
a little together, and thicken them up with a great deal of butter. 
In the mean time, cut the tops oil' a few French rolls, and take out 
sufficient crumb to admit some of the oysters, which must be tilled 
in boiling hot, and set over a stove, or chafing-dish of coals, till they 
are quite hot through ; filling them up with more liquor, or some hot 
gravy, as the former soaks in. When they are sufficiently moistened, 
serve them up in the manner of puddings. 

Dr. Anderson''s admirable Improvement on the common Mode 
of salting Butter. 

This ingenious gentleman, in his celebrated Recreations, first 
published the following directions for an improved mode of preserv- 
ing salt butter ; which he had experienced as not only more ellec- 
tually to preserve it from any taint of rancidity than the general old 
method of using common salt only, but also to make it look better, 
and taste sweeter, richer, and more marrowy, than if it had been 
cured with common salt alone. Take of the best common salt, two 
parts ; of saltpetre, one part ; and of sugar, one part ; beating them 
up together, so that they may be conipletely blended. To every pound 
of the butter add an oimcc of this composition, mix it well in the 
mass, and close it up for use. IJutter thus prepared will keep good 
for throe years, and caimot be distinguished from what has been re- 
ceaily salted. It may be necessary to remark, indeed, that butter cu- 
r d in the above excellent manner, does not taste well till if has stood 
at least two or three weeks. Dr. Anderson is of ojtinion that such 
butter woulJ keep during tlie longest voyages, if it could be so stow- 
ed as not to melt by heat < " climate, and thus occasion the salta 10 
■epwate. 



RKcni' i-i!onK. 17 

JMethod of expeditiously Futtcmnsr Chickens. 
Among the many silly prejudices which exist in England againsl 
the more general use of rice, :s tliat of reinarlsing its total unfitness 
for feeding fowls. This may he true enough, if it he given them 
in so hard a state as to pass without dissolution ; hut, perhaps, there 
is scarcely any thing which will sooner fatten the most delicate 
chickens than this very article, when it is properly prepared : 'J'ake, 
for (hat purpose, a quantity of ri: e, and grind or pound it into a fine 
llour ; mix sufficient for present use with milk and a little coarse 
sugar; stir the whole well over the hre, till it makes a thick paste ; 
and feed the chickens, in the day-time only, hy putting as much of 
it as they can eat, hul no more, into the troughs, belonging to their 
coops. It must he eaten while warm ; a.id, if they have also beer 
to drink, they will soon grow very fat. A mixture of oatmeal and 
treacle, combined till it crumbles, is said to fo'^m a food for chickens, 
of whicji they are so lond, and with which they thrive so rapidly, 
that at the end of two months tliey become as large as the generality 
of t\ill-grown fowls fed in the common way. 

f^ord Orford^s curious method of Feeding Corp in Ponds. 

Makk a gallon of barley meal, three poimds of chalk, and a suf- 
ficient quantity of fine clay, into a very stiff paste ; put it into a net, 
and place it so as to hang about a foot from the bottom of the water. 
When the carp have sucked away all but the clay, supply them with 
more made up in the same manner ; and, in three weeks or a monthi 
they will be fouml exceedingly fat. 

Dr. Fuller^s Chemical Snuff for the lJead-.,^che, Palsy, and 
Drowsy Distempers. 

Mkdicinal snuffs, or errhines, are chiefly to be used in the morn- 
ing ; but, if needful, at any other time also. " They draw," Dr. 
Fuller observes, " out of the head and nose, abundance of water, 
nmcus, and viscid phlegm, and are pertinently prescribed against 
such illnesses of the head as are caused by tough clammy matter, 
and have been of long continuance and contumacious ; such as 
gravative head-ache, palsy, and drowsy distempers." He particu- 
larly reconmiends. for tiiese purposes, a snuff made in the follow- 
ing manner: Take half a scruple of turbith mineral, half a drachm 
of [)Owdered liquorice, a scruple of nutmeg, and two drops of oil of 
rosemary ; make them all into a fine powder, and snuff up into the 
nose a very small quantity. This is so wonderfully powerful, that 
it brings off thin lymj)ha as if it raised a salivation through the nose, 
so plentifully and streamingly, that no person could have imagined 
who had never seen its elfects. He advises, therefore, that it should 
not be ot\en repeated, without snuffing up at'ter it a little warm milk 
or oil, to prevent any soreness by iVetting the membrane of the 
ii.>-^''-ils. 

Speedy Remedy for a Bruised Eye. 

lioiL a handful of hyssop leaves in a little water, till they are 
quite tender : th*"" :^"t them up in linen, apply it hot to the eye, tie 



IS THK NKW lAMILY 

It on tightly at bcd-tiiiic, and tlio eye will next day be well. Thia 
receipt is taken from a laiHC and valuable collection ttiat lo.inerly 
belonged to the fanuly t)!" the Karl ol' Shaftcsbiny ; and it is therein 
asstiited, that '' a man, wlrj had his thigii teiribly bruised by the kick 
of a horse, was cured in a few hours, only by a poultice of the leaves o( 
hyssop, cut or tninced very small, and beaten up with unsalted butter. 
Culpepper in his herbal asserts the same resi)ecling the virtues of 
hyssop. 

StoLiach Plaster for a Cuugh. 

Taick bees' wax, Burgundy pitch, and rosin, each an ounce ; melt 
them together in a clean pipkin, and then stir in three (juarters of an 
ounce of connnon turpentine, and half an ounce of oil of mace. 
Spread it on a piece ot slieep's leather, grate some nutmeg over the 
whole plaster, and apply it quite warm to the region of the stomach. 

Oil of Brown Paper, for Burns. 

Take a piece of the thickest coarse brown paper, and dip it in tho 
^ost salad oil ; then set the paper on the fire, and carefully preserve 
all the oil that dro|)S for use. This is said to be an admirable remedy 
for all sorts of burns. Oil of writing paper, collected in a similar man- 
ner, is often recommended for the tooth-ache. 

Liquid for removing Spots of Grea.te, Pitch, or Oil, from 
iVooUen Cloth. 

In a pint of spring water dissolve an ounce of pure pearl-ash ; 
adding, to the solution, a lemon cut in small slices. This being pro- 
perly mixed, and kept in a warm state for two days, the whole must 
be strained, and the clear liquid kept in a bottle for use. A little of 
this liquid being poured on the stained part, is said instantaneously to 
remove all spots of grease, pitch, or oil; and the moment they disap- 
pear, the cloth is to be washed in clear water. 

Method of taking out Ink Spots j. 'n JFoollen, Linen, and 

Silk. 

To lake spots of mli out ot woollen, they must first be rubbed 
with a composition, consisting of the white of an egg, and a few 
drops of oil of vitriol, properly incorporated : next, immediately 
washed with pure water ; and, lastly, have the parts smoothed, in the 
direction of the nap, with a piece of flannel or white woollen cloth. 
From linen, ink spots may be removed, by immediately dropping 
plentifully on them, while wet with the ink, the tallow from a lighted 
candle, and letting it remain on a kw days before washing the linen : 
this is also said to take the stains of red-port out of linen. Itdi spots 
on silk require to be well rubbed with the ashes of w ormwood and 
strong distilled vinegar, and to be afterwards cleansed with soap- 
water. When ink is once dried on linen, the spot is to be taken out 
by rubbing it well with a piece of lemon, and then using a hot iroi/ 
till the ink totally disappears. If a lemon be " In half, the lint>ii 
where spotted pressed down over it ti" the jui.j. jiehelrates thronj>i). 



RECf.IPT-Bt>JK. 19 

and tlie hot iron thoii placed on the hncn, the spot will isnmediatel;^ 
give way, and soon entirely vaiii.-li. 

Ink Stains tikcn out of Alahogany. 

Put a few drops of spirit of sea-salt, or oil of vitiiol, in a tea- 
spconfu! of water, and touch the stain or spot with a feather ; anci, 
on the ink disappearing, rub it over witli a lag veiled in cold water, 
or there will he a white mark not easily ctlaced. 

Red Miociure for giving a fine. Colour (o JMahoginuj Furniture. 

Stains of ink beii!<f first removed by the metliod above described, 
wash the tables or other mahogany furniture with vinegar, and then 
rub them all over svith a red mixture made in the following manner : 
Put into a pint of cold-drawn linseed oil four pennyworth of alkanet 
root, and two pennyworth of rose-pink ; stir them well together in 
any earthen vessel, and let them remain all night, when the mixture*, 
being again well stirred, will be immediately fit for use. AN hen it 
has been left an hour on the furniture, it may be rubbed ofi'till bright 
with linen cloths ; and will soon have a beautiful colour, as well as 
a glossy appearance. 

Mr. Jayne's Patent Method of preserving Eggs. 

Various have been the expedients by which good housewives 
have endeavoured to preserve eggs. They have, in turns, been kept 
in salt, in flour, and in bran ; they have been scalded in hot water, 
and deposited at the bottom of a cold running stream ; they have 
been steeped in vinegar, and they have been bathed with oil. None 
of these expedients, however, seem to be universally approved, 
though each has had its respective advocates, and been warmly re- 
commended to attention. In the year 1791, a patent was obtained 
by Mr. Vi'illiam Jayne, tor his newly-invented composition calculiited 
to preserve eggs. The specification of Mr. Jayne, whose patent 
expired of course in the year 1S05, directs that, for preparing his 
composition, a Winchester bushel of quick or unslaeked lime, two 
pounds of common salt, and half a poiuid of cream of tartar, should 
be incorporated with such a quantity of con'.m( li water as may re- 
duce the mixtin-e to a stiUe of consistence in which an egg will float 
with its top above the surface. In this liquid the eggs are lo be 
constantly kept fi>r use , and the patentee asserts, that they will thus 
certainly be preserved perfectly sound for at least two years. 

Chinese Mode of rendering nil Sorts of Cloth, and evoi AIns- 
lin, fVatcr-Proof 

By the following very simple process for making cloth w ater-nroot", it 
IS asserted that the Chinese render not only all the strongest cloths but 
even the most open muslins, impenetrable to the heaviest showers 
of rain ; nor yet, as it is said, will this composition fill up the in- 
terstices of tii« fiuet-t iawn, or in the slightest degree injure the 
most brilliant colours. The composition to which these valuable 
qualities are imputed, is merely a solution of half an ounce >-^f white 



20 



THK NEW FAMILY 



wiix in a pint of spirits of turpentine. In a suflficicnt cpiantity of tho 
mixture, made '.villi these materials, immerse tlie articles intended 
t(5 be rendered water-proof, and then hanj^ tliem in tiie open air till 
they l)econie perfectly dry. This is all the process necessary for 
accomplishing so desirat)le a )nrpose ; against which, however, 
may be objected, perlia|)s, the expense, and un|)!easant scent, of 
the turpentine spirits : the latter objection may be remedied by 
using equal parts of spirits of wine and oil of wormwood, a n^ixturc 
of which is said to dissi[)ate the smell of turpentine ; but the former, 
it is not to be denied, must necessarily be, at the same time, in 
some degree, augmented. It has lately been attempted, in f^ngland, 
to render the use of water-proof cloth general. 

Scautiful newly-discovered Golden Yellow Dye, for Silks, 
Cotton, Sf-c. 

This fine, lively, and durable yellow dye, has recently been dis- 
covered by M. Lasteyrie, who thus describes the process by which 
it is obtained from the shaggy spunk, or boletus hirsutus of Linna'us ; 
a species of mushroom, or fungus, growing chiefly on apple or wal- 
nut trees. This vegetable substance is replete with colouring mat- 
ter, which nuist be expressed by pounding in a mortar ; after which 
the liquid thus acquired is to be boiled about a quarter of an hour. 
Six pints of water may be well tinged for dying, by a single ounce 
of the expressed fluid. This being strained, the silk, cotton, &c. 
intended to be dyed, must be immersed and boiled in it for about 
fifteen or twenty minutes ; when fine silk, in particular, if it be after- 
wards passed through S')ft soap water, will appear of a bright golden 
yellow hue, equal in lustre to that of the silk hitherto i!n[)orted from 
China, at a great expense, for imitating gold embroidery. In short, 
every sort of stufl" retains a fine yellow colour; but it is, of course, 
less bright on linen and cotton. Nor is the use of this vegetable 
substance confined to dying ; since it has been ascertained that 
/he yellow extract which it yields is applicable to the purposes of 
painting, both in oil and in water colours. 

Curious J\lcthod of Breeding an innumerahJe Qanntity of the 
beautiful Gold and Silcvr Fi.'ih. 

TiiK curious process by which this is to be ea.>ily efl'ected, may 
be in general applied, on a larger scale, to the breeding, in equal 
profusion, most of our esculent fresh- water fish. It is, simply, as 
follows : Get a large deep cistern or vat, of any dimensions, but one 
of about four feet diameter, and nearly the same height or depth, 
will very well answer the purpose ; then take a quantity of birch, or 
small faggot wood, which has been previously soaked some time in 
a stream, sj)ring, or pond, so as to have lost all power o'" discolour- 
ing or giving any farther taste to fresh water, and lay this wood all 
along the bottom, to the thickness of about a foot, in some parts at 
least, having large stones on the top to keep it from rising or motion. 
Ueing thus certain that neither the vat nor the birch can spoil the 



BECEIPT-BOOK. 2J 

Wiitor, lunirly fill it with the best soft water froin a river or pn:u\ 
Siicii us liiere can be ao doubt that tiA\ will be al)li: to li\L' in. '1 he 
val, it is to Le observed, must be placed in the opeu air, but not in a toe 
cold or exposed situation ; and the breeding is to commence in the 
•.pring, w hen the tish are lull, and just ready to spawn. Choose, as 
breeders, four hard-roed or females, and only one soft-roed mileher 
or male. Put the five, with all possible care not to hurt them, into 
the vat ; feeding them occasionally, by throwing in a few crumbs of 
bread, or some other trifling food, but in no other way disturbing them. 
When they appear quite tlnn, or sholten as it is termed, they must be 
quietly taken out with a small net, so as by no means to disturb the 
spawn, and entirely kept away ; as they would, if allowed to remain, 
(such is the nature of these and most other fish,) soon devour the 
greatest part of the spawn and small fry, suffering little or none ever 
to reach maturity. The vat must not be disturbed during the whole 
summer ; only, as the water decreases, a little fresh must from time 
to time be as gently as possible poured in, to supply the deficiency. 
In the course of the summer, the vivified roes will be hatched, and 
the water perceived swarming with a minute fry ; fully sufficient to 
stock a large piece of water, if not devoured by other fish, or the 
several buds which make fish their prey. By this method, myriads 
of those beautiful fish may be easily bred ; and, consequently, be- 
come very common. At present, it is true, though originally intro- 
duced from the East Indies, of which, as well as of China, the gold 
fish, or cyprinus auratus of Linnaeus, is a native, it is still chiefly 
kept in glass globular vessels for ornament. It has, however, within 
these few years, been sufficiently ascertained, that these fishes 
thrive and propagate in ponds, or other reservoirs of water ; where 
ti?ey are said to acquire a nuich larger growth, and come to greater 
perfection, than in the oriental countries. 

Syruj) of Red Cabbage, as prepared m France, 

Cut and wash a large red cabbage, put it into a pot covered with 
water, and let it simmer three or four hours over a moderate fire, till 
there only remains about a pint of liquor ; then strain it through a 
sieve, pressing the cabbage forcibly to get all the juice ; let the liquor 
stand some hours to settle, and pour off' the clear. Put a pound of 
Narbonne honey into a saucepan, over a stove, w ith a glass of w ater ; 
.ind keep skimming it all the time it is boiling, till it be completely 
clarified. Then put in the cabbage juice, and make the whole boil 
to the consistence of a syrup ; which is always to be known, by ta- 
kinf a little of it on one finger, and finding that, on its being rubbed 
a'l-ainst the next, it forms a thread which does not instantly break. 
This syrup is regarded in France as a most excellent fortifier of the 
breast. It is undoubtedly a good pectoral syrup, very pleasant, not 
at all expensive, and easily made. A decoction of red cabbage, 
even in England, by some eminent physicians, has been frequently 
recommended for softening acrimonious humours ii\ disorders of the 
breast, and also in hoarseness. 



22 THE NEW FAMILY 

Boluses for t/ic Jihcumatisin and Coat actions of the Joint* 

Bruise four cloves of garlic with two drachms ofgutn ammonia' 
and make them into six boluses with sjjring water. lake one every 
mornLiig and evening, drinking plentiluUy of sassafras lea, at least 
twice a day, while using this medicine. '1 his is ^aid to he a most 
elfectual remedy for the ilu;Lnnatisni,and equally good in contractions 
of the joints. 

Pill for an Jlching Hollow Tooth. 

Take half a grain each of opium and yellow sub-sulphate of quick- 
silver, formerly called tnrpeth mineral ; make them into a pill, and 
place it in the hollow of the tooth some hours before bed-time, wWn 
a small piece of wax over the top, when it is said never to fail efiect- 
iuT a complete cure. It was originally communicated, with many 
other medical receipts, by a learaed physician at York. 

Tea for the Gout. 
Take the leaves of carduus benedictus, or the holy thistle, with a 
sufficient proportion of angelica leaves to make it palatable, but not 
much of either at a time, and drink half a pint of this infusion made 
like common tea, rather weak, constantly every morning for twelve 
months. This is said to have alone relieved several persons who were 
almost crippled with the gout. The leaves of the blessed thistle, in 
strong decoction, are generally agreed to be beneficial where there 
is a loss of appetite, or the stomach has been impaired by irregulari- 
ties ; and, whether an infusion be made in cold or warm water, it 
occasions, if drank freely, a copious perspiration, and greatly pro- 
motes the secretions. The dried leaf, which may be used for making 
the tea recommended, loses much of that forbidding flavour always 
possessed by the fresh plant ; and v. hich occasions it to be some- 
times emjdoyed in strong decoctions, cither as an emetic, or as the 
auxiliary of an emetic. 

Infallible Powder for Shortness of Breath. 

This excellent remedy for shortness of breath is particularly re- 
commended to young ladies. The powder is thus directed to be 
made : Take an ounce each of carraway seeds and anniseeds, half 
an ounce of liquorice, a large nutmeg, a:i ounce of prepared steel 
and two ounces of double-refined sugar ; reduce the whole into ;. 
very fine powder, and take as much as will lie on a shilling every 
morning fasting, and the same quantity at five in the afternoon. It 
will be requisite to use exercise while taking this medicine, which 
generally very soon effects a cure. "Where any invincible i)rrjudice 
against the use of steel exists in the mind, the medicine may be 
tried without it ; it will even then frequently afiord relief. 

Excellent Wash fur J\^nmljcd or Tremhling Hands 
Thesk disagreeable complaints arc said to be soon remedied by 
the very simple expedient of frequently washing the hands so aflecl- 
ed in a strong decoction of wo'^nvood and mustard seed; to b« 
stra'ned, and used when coKl. 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 23 

Mustard }] hey, for a Pahij and JS^ervous Disorders. 

Tc;:n l.'ulf a pint of boiling iniili, by pulling in a table-spooniiil of 
made iiHistard. Slriiin the whty tVoiii the cuni, Lhicugh ii .sieve, and 
drink it in bed. This will give a generoua and glowing warmth, the 
whey thus convoying the mustard into the constitution. Dr. .Sie[)hen 
Ilules says, that he knew a woman, who liad a great degree of numb- 
ness all over her, re.narkably relieved with two doses only, and nun- 
lions several instances where it has done good in nervous cases, and 
in palsy, greatly abating the malady and prolonging life. 

Ingenious French Vegetative Liquid fcr making Bulbous Hoots 
Jloicer beautifuUii in ornamental Glasses, without Earth, du- 
ring the U' inter Season. 

Dissolve, gradually, in a glazed earthen or glass vessel, three 
ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of common salt, and half an ounce 
of salt of tartar, with a pint of rain water. AVhen the solution is 
com[)leted, add half an ounce of loaf sugar; filter the whole through 
a bag or blotting pa|)er, and keep it bottled for use. Into each flower- 
glass, filled with rain or river water, are to be put eight or ten drops 
of this liquid. The glasses must be kept constantly full, and the 
water renewed every tenth or twelfth day at farthest ; to which must 
always be added the requisite number of drops of the vegetative li- 
quor. To ensure complete success, however, the glasses ought to 
stand on a mantle or chimney-piece where a fire is regularly kept in 
cold weather. The fibres of the roots must of course always im- 
bibe the liquid ; and, uith proper management, a fine succession of 
flowers may be kept up during the most rigorous seasons ; such as 
crocuses of dilTerent colours, tulips, hyacinths, snow-drops, &c. 

vlrt of Extracting the inest Carmine Poirder from Clippings 
of Scarlet Cloth. 

That incomparable crimson colour, called carmine, which so 
beautifully particij'ates in the most delicate tints of scarlet and of 
purple, is so verv expensive, tliat miniature painters are often induced 
to substitute fi)r carmine a composition of lake ; by the foHouing |)ro- 
cess, however, it is credibly asserted, that a better carmine riuiy wilh 
certainty be niaiuifa<tiued than much of what is imported from France, 
'lake five or six gallons of the purest water, and dissolve in it a 
suflicient quantity of pot-ash to make a strong ley. After having 
filtered the solution, put it in a brass pot, and boil in it a pound of 
the clean shreds or clipfdngs of the finest scarlet broad clnib dyed in 
grain, till they have entirely lost their colour ; then squeeze the shreds, 
and pass all the ley through a flannel bag. Dissolve two poinids of 
aluui in a proper quantity of water, and add this solution to the ley ; 
f !:r them well together, and (he whole will becoirie rather thick. It 
i ; then to be repassed through the flannel bag, and the liquor viil tun 
out clear; but, if it be at all tinged, it is again to be boiled, with the 
addition of a small (piantily of dissolved alum, and passed throj^h 



24 



TIIK NKVV FAl\Ill/f 



llie ba;f a third time, when all the carmine will b( left behind «'"r.-»sh 
water is then to be poured repeatedly into the bag, till all tl e alum 
is washed away : after which the colour must be dried, so fes to 
prevent any dust from settling on it ; and, being previously reduced 
to an impalpable powder, on glass or marble, it will be immediately 
fit for use. 

Sahstitute for J^erdigrcase, in producing a fine Black Dye 
without Injury to Cloth, Sfc. 

As verdigrease, though generally combined with logwood foj 
dying black, is extremely apt to corrode the texture of the cloth, &c. 
the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and 
Commerce, in the Adelphi, rewarded Mr. Cleg for his discovery of a 
substitute in dying that colour. For this purpose, equal parts of 
pot-ash, or any other strong alkaline salt, and vitriol of copper, are 
to be separately dissolved, and the two solutions gradually mixed. 
If the vitriol be sufficiently saturated, the water on the surface will 
become transparent on adding a ^g\v drops of the alkaline solution ; 
but, if not, it will produce a blue colour, so that no pot-ash should 
be added till a com.plete saturation be efTected. These proportions 
of vitriol and alkaline salt will be equivalent to a similar quantity of 
verdigrease ; and, on being combined with decoctions of logwood, 
in the same manner as verdigrease, will impart a fine black dve, 
which is by no means |)rejudicial to the" texture of cloth, hats, or 
other articles, so often rotted by pernicious black dyes. 

Artificial Musk. 

The mode of making artificial musk, which is often used in Ger- 
many for that expensive odorous drug, is simply as follows : Add, to 
one drachm of oil of amber, by small portions at a time, four times 
the quantity of nitrous acid, commonly called aqua-fortis ; carefully 
.stirring them together with a glass rod all the time, and continuing 
so to do till the whole be converted into a yellow resin, possessing 
the smell of musk in great perfection. It must, of course, be kept 
closely stopped up, like real musk ; and may sometimes supply the 
place of that high-priced article, not forgetting the nature of its chief 
ingredient. 

JVonderful but easy mid. effectual Method of rendering all Sorts 
of Paper Fire-Fro of 

This astonishing effect is produced by a most simple process. 
It is only necessary, whether the paper be plain, written, or printed 
on, or even marbled, stained, on painted for hangings, to immerse it 
in a strong solution of alum-water, and then thoroughly dry it, when 
it will immediately become fire proof. This experiment is readily 
ascertained, by holding a slip of paper thus prepared over a candle. 
Some paper, liowever, will require to imbibe more of the solution 
than it may receive by a single immersion ; in which case, the 
operation of dipping and drying must be repeated till such paper be- 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 25 

eomes fully satuiaied, when, it is positively asserted, neither the co« 
lour nor quality of me paper will be in the smallest degree affected ; 
but that, on the contrary, both wilt be even improved. 

Bellamy's Patent Methods of making Leather of all Sorts 
IV at er -Proof. 

The patentee and mveator of these nielhods, Mr. John Bellamy, 
makes use of two compositions ; which, according to his specifica- 
tion in the Tatent Office, registered 1794, are as follow : A gallon 
each of nut and poppy oils are to be mixed with three gallons ot 
linseed oil ; or, one gallon of either nut or poppy oil may be added 
to three of that expressed from linseed ; or, two gallons of linseed 
oil may be combined with a pint of nut oil and the like quantity of 
poppy oil. These ingredients, either in the above proportions, or 
such others as may be required by the nature of tlie oils, being mix- 
ed in an iron pot, are to be placed over a gentle fire ; and to each 
gallon of oil must be added a pound of white copperas, sugar of lead, 
colcothar, or any other dryuig substance. ^Yhen (he whole has re- 
mained six or seven hours over such a degree of heat as it will bear 
without rising, till it become sufficiently dry, it is to be taken off, 
and suffered to cool : this first compound is then fit for use. The 
second compound, for the same purpose of rendering all kinds of 
leather water-proof, is thus directed to be made : Take a pound of 
gum resin, half a pound of pitch, and a quarter of a pound each of 
tar and turpentine ; well mix these ingredients with one gallon of the 
oils prepared according to the first method, by gently heating the 
entire mass, and then increasing the fire till the whole be thoroughly 
incorporated. When the oils prepared according to the first method, 
or the gums according to the second, are sufficiently cool, either is 
to be rubbed into the leather with a brush dipped in the respective 
composition ; and the thoroughly-impregnated leather being stretched 
on an even board, the superfluous matter is to be removed from its 
surface. Sole leather, and other thick substances, are to be first 
gently warmed : and, after being fully saturated with the composition, 
and properly dried in a warm place, they are ready for use. 

Genuine Receipt for making the Invahiahle Cordial Liquor 
called Vespetro. recommended by the king of France's Physi- 
cians at Jllontpellier. 

Tins truly excellent and agreeable cordial, which comes thtis 
sanctioned to the world, is recommended for all complaints in the 
stomach, indigestion, sickness, colic, obstructions, stitches of the 
side, spasms in the breast, diseases of the kidneys, strangury, gra- 
vel, oppression of the spleen, loathing, vertigo, rlieumatism, short- 
ness of breath, &c. The following are the genuine instructions for 
making it: Take a thick glass or stone bottle which will hold consider- 
ably more than two English quarts, and put in it two Paris pints, 
being equal to about two English quarts, of the best brandy; adding 
the following seeds, first grossly pounded in a mortar ; two drachms 
i( rjngelica se» js, one ounce of coriander seeds, aiid a large pinch 



26 



TRK NKW KAMI 



of pugil each of fennel seeds aii.i aimisccd-i. Then squeeze in the 
juice of two fresh lci!ioii><, j)iiiliriir in also llie/r rinds ; add a pound 
of loaf siigai ; and, well .-haliinii; tiic? !)oll!e frcm time to lime, let the 
whole infuse live days. After this, to ren<icr the li(;nor clearer, pass 
it lhr<yi.j;h a cotton ha^, or filtering p:i|)er, and bottle it np, carefully 
and closely corked. To he taken, a sn all cordial glass at a time, 
more or less fretjiiently, according;; to circnni.'tances. A tahle- 
S|>oonfnl taken l\rAy or live successive mornings, is said to kill the 
worms in children ; iind, on rubbing with iltul sniall quantify the 
nose and temples fasting, it i? a preservative of the person so using 
it ai^ainst the ill eil'ects of damp or unwholesome air. In short, this 
licpior will abundantly satisfy all who may have occasion to use it } 
and a gentleman having been long alHicted 'with an hepatic flux, 
which gave him eontinntd torment, the use of this liquor carried it 
oiY, and completely cured him. 

Incomparable Method of Saldna; .nlcai, as adopted i\j the late 
Empress of liusaia. 

The following method of salting meat is asserted to have been 
uscu by the great empress Catharine, in her household establishment, 
with the utmost success : Boil together, over a gentle fire, six pounds 
of common salt, two pounds of pov.dered loaf sugar, three ounces of 
saltpetre, and three gallons of spring water. Carefully skim it while 
boiling; and, when quite cold, pour it over the meat, every part of 
which must be covered with the brine. In this pickle, it is said, the 
meat will not only keep for rnaiiy months, but the hardest and 
toughest beef will thus be rendered as mellov,- anrl tender as the flesh 
of a yoiing fowl; wliile either beef, |)ork, or even mutton, will have 
a fine flavour imparted by it. In warm weather, however, the blood 
must be expressed from, the n)eat, and the whole well rubbed over 
with fine salt, before it is imn)ersed in the liquor. Young pork should 
not be left longer than three or four days in this pickle, as it will then 
be quite sufficiently softened : but hams, intended tor drying, may 
remain a fortnight before they are hussgup; when they should be 
rubbed with pollard, and closely covered with paper bags, to prevent 
their being fly-blov.n. Though this pickle is, at first, somewhat 
more expensive than common brine, (as it may be again used, on 
being boiled with additional water and the other ingredients,) ii is far 
from being, on the whole, importantly more dear ; whilst it seems to 
promise advantages which most people would be happy to pinchase 
at a much higher price. 

Electuary for the Rheumatism., by Dr. Brookes. 

Take conserve of orange peel, two ounces ; cinnabar of antunonv 
levigated, half an tiunce ; gum guiacum in powder, one ounce ; ^^ in 
ter's bark in powder, three drachms ; syrup of orange peel sufticient 
to make an electuary. The dose three drachms, morning and 
cvenjnj'. 



Kr.ci:»rT-i!0()K 27 

Art of making the best Black Ink Powder. 

Infuse a quurfor ofa pound of fineiy powdered nut galls in three 
pints of rain or river water; expo.sing it, occasionally well stirred, 
ti» a moderate degree of warmth fur a few days, till the colouring 
matter seems fully extracted : then fdter the solution into a vessel 
slightly covered, and place it in the open air tor several weeks : when, 
on removing the mouldy skin from the top, which has gradually been 
formed, it must be carefully collected, have hot water poured ovei 
it, undergo another filtration, and then be evaporated to dryness. 
Thus will be produced a gray crystalline salt, called the acid salt of 
galls, and which is the essential basis of black ink. On triturating 
a single drachm of this salt with an equal quantity of vitriol of iron, 
and about a pennyweight of the driest gum arabic, a composition 
will be obtained which afTords an excellent black ink, merely on 
being dissolved in warm water. 

Genuine Syrvp for Coughs, Sjjitting of Blood, §-c 

Tiijs excellent remedy for such frequently very alarming symp- 
toms, cannot be made too public. " He must," says the learned ajid 
liberal Dr. Fuller, " be a mere stranger in physic, who is not ac- 
quainted with this most noble syrup, and how mightily it succours 
those who cough up blood." It is thus made : Take six ounces of 
comfrey roots, and twelve handsful of plantain leaves : cut and beat 
tftem well ; strain out the juice ; and, with an equal weight of sugar, 
boil it up to a syrup. 

V^ast advantages of Baking instead of Boiling Beet-Hoot. 

The beet-root too forcibly intrudes it-elf on the improved sagacity 
of mankind to be entirely neglected, as a source of cheap and salu. 
Drious food. The late Dr. Lettsom, some {ew years since, took 
uncommon pains to recommend a variety of one species of this 
genus, the German mangel-wurzel, or famine-root, under the ap- 
pellation of the root of scarcity, or large white beet-root, as an ar- 
ticle worthy of being universally cultivated. The time, however, 
seems not yet arrived for the full value of even the more attractive 
red species to be generally known and duly appreciated ; so that his 
philanthropic design may be said to have hitherto failed. In speak- 
ing of the beet-root generally, the red beet-root, therefore, is to be 
considered as alone designated ; and we are about to ofter a few 
hints for bringing its modest and humble merits into a little more 
deserved estimation. The rich saccharine juice of the beet-root is, 
in a great degree, lost, and the root itself rendered, at once, less 
nutritious by the adventitious watery weakness which it is made to 
imbibe, as well as by parting with the native gelatinous syrup, of 
which it is thus forcibly deprived. It is, therefore, most strongly 
recommended to adopt the mode of baking beet«roots, instead of 
boiling them, for general use ; when they will, unquestionably, be 
found to afTord a very delicious and most wholesome food. This is 
not ollered as an untried novelty ; neet-roots are universally baked 



28 TIJE NEW li'AMILT 

all over the continent of Europe ; tuid, in Italy ?articularly, they 
arc carried about, warm from the oven, twice a day, like hot loaves, 
&c. ill London. They are there purchased by all ranks of people, 
and niTord to many thousands, with bread and a little salt only, a very 
satisfactory meal. 

Remedy for fVind in the Veins. 

This stale of the veins, though always visible on (he slightest in- 
spection, often escapes any notice, though it leads to many disorders. 
The following remedy may be taken \vitli advantage whenever they 
appear iu a suspicious stale : Take equal quantities of powdered 
liquorice, carraway seeds, and sugar candy : to which add a third 
part of rhubarb, and the like quantity of cream of tartar, both finely 
pulverized. Of this mixture, take a tea-spoonful three or four times 
a day ; either by itself, or in a glass of wine. It should be continued 
about a week ; and, being gently laxative, it cools the blood, eases 
pains, and relieves and prevents many disorders. 

Best Method of 7naking Sage Cheese. 

Take the tops of young red sage ; and, having pressed the juice 
from them i)y beating in a mortar, do the same with the leaves of spin- 
age, and then mix the two juices together. After putting the rennet 
to the milk, pour in some of this juice, regulating the quantity by (he 
degree of colour and taste it is intended to give the cheese. As 
the curd appears, break it gently, and in an equal manner; then, 
emptying it into a cheese vat, let it be a little pressed, in order to make 
it eat mellow. Having stood for about seven hours, salt and turn it 
daily for foiu* or five weeks, when it will be fit for (he table. The 
spinage, besides improving the flavour and correcting ihe bitterness 
of the sage, w'\\\ give it a much moVe pleasing colour than can be ob- 
tained from sage alone. 

Sijrup of Ginger. 

An agreeauie and moderately aromatic syrup, impregnated with 
the flavour and medicinal virtues of ginger, is thus prepared : Ma- 
cerate an ounce and a half of beaten ginger in a quart of boilinj; 
water, closely covered up, fur twenty-four hours : then, straining off 
the infusion, make it intn a syrup, by adding at least two parts of 
fine loaf sfigar, dissolved and boiled up in a hot water bath. 

Wonderful Power of ihe Turkish Glue, or Jlrmeninn Cemcnty 
with the Jlrt of making it. 

TiiF, jewellers in Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, according 
to Mr. Eton, formerly a consul, and author of the Survey of the 
Turkish Empire, have a singular method of ornamenting watch- 
cases, &c. with diamonds and other precious stones, by simply glu- 
ing or cementing tTiem. The stone is set in silver or gold, and the 
other part of the metal made flat to correspond with the part to which 
it is to be fixed ; it is then warmed gently, and has the gJue applied, 
which is so very strong, I'ha the parts con?cnte(* never separate. This 



RECEiPT-BC :x. 29 

glue, which will strongly unite bits of glass, and even polished steel, 
and may of coarse be applied to a vast variety of ustl'iil purposes, 
is thus nude: Dissolve tive or six bits of gum nmstich, each the 
size of a large pea, in as much spirits of wine as will sufl'ice to ren- 
der it liquid : and, in another vessel, dissolve as much isinglass, pre- 
viously a little swelled or softened in water, though none of the 
water must be used, in French brandy or good rum, as will make a 
two-ounce phial of very strong glue : adding two small bits of gum 
galbanum, or ammoniacun), which must be rvdibcd or ground till 
they arc dissolved. Then mix the whole with a sufiicient heat. 
Keep the glue in a pliial stopped close, and, when it is to be used, 
set the bottle in hot or boiling water. JMr. Eton observes, that some 
persons have, in England, prepared and sold this composition under 
the name of Armenian Cement ; but it is much too thin, and the 
quantity of mastich in it too small : it must, this gentleman adds, be 
like strong carpenters' glue. This certainly is cue of the most 
valual)!e known cements in the world. Nor is it at all improbable, 
that a plan, said to have been invented in France or Germany, for 
making up clothes, &c. by uniting cloth without sewing, in some at- 
tempt founded on the use of this very cement ; with what ultimate 
success, we must leave time to develope. In the mean while, there 
can be no sort of doubt, that much may be eflected by ingenious 
applications of so powerful an agent. 

Fahiahle Secret in preparing Foil for Diamonds, and other 
jirecious Stones, as used by the Armenian Jewellers. 

The method of preparing the rich foils in which the Armenian 
jewellers set precious stones, particularly diamonds, to much advan- 
tage, and which, under roses or half-brilliants, is most remarkably 
beautiful, and not subject to t?irnish, is generally kept as a great se- 
cret ; and such foils, Mr. Eton assures us, sells' at Constantinople 
for from half to three-quarters of a dollar each. The mode of pre- 
paring them is extremely simple. An agate is cut, and highly po- 
lished, of ihe shape desired ; a cavity of about its own size is next 
f)rmed in a block of lead, and over this cavity is placed a bit of tin, 
the thickness of strong brown paper, scraped very bright. The 
agate is then placcd'on the lin, over the cavity, and stiuck with a 
mallet; when the beautiful polish which the tin instantly receives, is 
scarcely to be imagined by those who have never seen it. 

Easy method of Dying Cotton u'ith J\Iadder, as practised at 

Smyrna. 

Cotton, at Smyrna, Mr. Eton tells us, is dyed with madder in 
the following manner : The cotton is boiiuJ in common olive oil, 
and then in mild alkali; being thus cleaned, it will take the mad- 
der dye : and this is the fine colour so greatly admired in Smyrna 
cotton-yarn. " I have heard," adds this gentleman, " that the sum 
of live th >usand pounds was given in England for this secret !" It is 
doubtless, a secret in pre|)aring cottons, and perhaps otlser articles. 
for iue reception of a particular dye, very well worth knowing 



50 THK NEW FAMU.T 

The Duchess of Mnrlhoroiiff^h's admirable JVaterfor Thicktit 
iiicr thp. JIiiii\ and to prevent its falling oJJ\ 

Tins iHDst rxc(!ll(!iit u'litoi- fi)r tlio li;iir is produced in the .oUow- 
iii;,' iiuiMner : r'istil, as cool and slowly as possible, two pounds ol 
honey, a handful of rosemary, and twelve handsful of the curlings 
or tendrils of grape-vines, infused in a gallon of new milk, from which 
about two quirts tif the water will be obtained. 

Celebrated French Worm Medicine for Dog 

This medicine has the reputation of effectually killing and ex- 
pelling the worms with which dogs are often so grievously tor- 
mented, and which, probably, may be one grand cause of their 
running mad. It is thus made : Take, for one dose, which generally 
proves suiRcicnt, two drachms ea^i of juice of wormwood, aloes, 
and staves-acre, the two last powdered as small as possible; with 
one drachm each of pounded burnt hartshorn and sul()hur. Mix 
the whole together in nut oil, to the quantity of aboi-* half a glass, 
which must be given to the dog for a dose. If at all necessary, 
another dose may be given a day or tv.o after. 

Superior Use of the celebrated German Tinder, and great Im- 
portance of its being universally adopted. 

On the continent of Europe, every traveller, sportsman, &c. car- 
ries constantly this tinder about him, which is conveniently portable, 
and resembles a piece of soft and very thick tanned leather, of elas- 
tic substance, and a sort of velvet surface on the upj)er part. It is, 
in fact, a large fungus, commonly called punk, which grows at the 
roots of old trees, where it spreads t» a considerable size. This 
substance is dressed, l;ammered, and otherwise manufactured for 
the pin-pose, into this appearance, and, being dried, forms the true 
German tinder at all times ready for use, and far less liable to be- 
come damp than English tinder. The manner of using it is by 
tearing off a small bit, which will serve several times, and holding it 
at the edge of the flint, which is smote by the steel, instead of the 
steel by the flint. In this the Germans are so expert, and can so 
well rely on their tinder, that they will engage to light it at a single 
stroke, and, indeed, seldom fail to do so. The tinder being thua 
kindled, may be placed in a pipe of tobacco, or extinguished iii- 
sfantlv between the finger and thumb, after lighting a match for this 
or any other purpose. It is always kept in a pouch or box, with a 
flint, steel, and short German matches ; and few persons are much 
from home without carrying them constantly in their pockets. If the 
German tinder were to be manufactured in England, many poo' 
persons might bo employed in collecting the puidv, which is nov/ 
suffered to rot without utility ; and, could it be brou^dit entirely tc 
prevent the destruction of rags for tinder, a quantity far exceeding 
what may be generally imagined, il might pr 3 X' llic means of creoll)i 
ass'sting the manufacture of paper. 



KFCF.IPT-ROOIC. •) i 

To make a Powder, by which ijini ratty write with water. 

BiiuiSK (0 powder ;i liarKlful of galls, h:ilf a:i ounce of vitriol, an 
ounce of gwn atabic atid gum sandrick. Mingle thetu iinely sifted 
together, then rub your paper with a little of it laid upon cotton 
wool; an J, having smootiied it, take water, and write upon the pa- 
per ; thci. suffering it to dry, it will bo black. 

Turkish Method of Filtering Water by Ascension. 

The process is this : They make two wells, from five to '.en feet, 
or any other depth, at a small distance from each other, witi'' a com- 
munication between the two at their bottoms. The separation is of 
clay well beaten, or other substances impenetrable by water. IJ"oth 
wells are then filled with sand and gravel. The opening of the well 
mto which the water to be filtered runs, is made somewhat higher 
than that into wliich it is to ascend ; nor does the sand of this latter 
approach the brim, where there is either sufficient room left for all 
the filtered water, or it is drawn oif by a spout run into a vessel 
piacedfor that purpose. The greater the difference is between the 
height of the two wells, the faster the water filters ; but the less it is, 
the better it operates, provided a sufficient quantity of water be sup- 
plied by it for the intended purpose. This, Mr. Kton observes, may 
be practised in a cask, tub, jar, or other vessel, and would be use- 
ful on board of ships : t'ae water being conveyed to the bottom by a 
pipe, and the lower end having in it a sponge, or the pipe might be 
filled with coarse sand. It is evident, that all such particles as, by 
their gravity, are carried down w filtration by descent, will not rise 
with the water in filtration by ascension. From this account, it 
should seem, that the principle of filtration by ascent, considered 
as a new discovery by so;ne ingenious Europeans, has been long 
known to the Turks. 

Mr. Peacock'' s Patent Alachine for Purifying and Filtering the 
foulest icaier. 

The utility of filtering machines, in the different processes of 
brewing, distillery, and dying, as well as that of making bread, and 
all other domestic arts, is sufTicien'.ly obvious. The filtering ma- 
chin(5 of Mr. Peacock has been contrived and composed with a com- 
bination of skill and simplicity which is seldom witnessed. The 
turbid fluid is poure-d into a vessel, with layers of sifted gravel or 
small pebbles, in different gradations of size, at the botton, and con- 
nected somewhat like the Turkish filtering wells, with a similar 
vessel, with like strata or layers, in progressive degrees of fineness, 
through which the water, however foul, on its entrance into the first 
vessef, now rises clear and pure in this. Had Mr. Peacock, who is 
one of the first architects in the world, been a poor or a mercenary 
man, this invention mi ;ht have obtained him a large fortune : but, 
being neither one nor the other, though this gentleman secured his 
ri'i^ht by patent, and he was only 3 )licitou3 of its being adopted 
from phiUjuthrr 5 mjtivos, ad hn probably lost more monej 



32 'HF, NF.W FAMILY 

tl»;m he has gained by t.ie invention. Wlien its use hccomes 6a\y 
appreciated, some future maniifacfnrer of Mr. Peacock's filtering 
macliines mny probably reap the advantage. A specimen of his 
niacliine is deposited in Guildhall, London, and, tiiough capable of 
yielding a conslp^t an*.' pure stream of three hinidred gallons in 
twenty-four hours, it does not occupy more room than a common 
large drip or filtering stone, with all its accompanying apparatus : 
that nothing may be wanting to its |)erfectioti, it is easily cleansed, 
though seldom necessary, in the sliort space of a single minute. 
Nothing, therefore, is easier than for brewers, distillers, dyers, <Vc. 
who are so inclined, to liavc all their water filtered by means of Mr. 
Peacock's invention, vhich is capable of being extended to any 
magnitude, at an expense which cannot be the smallest object to 
the generality of persons concerned in those respective manufac- 
tories. This invention, could it be brought into general use, might 
be considered as a blessing to the nation. At sea, if the strata may be 
so fixed as not to be too much disturbed or deranged by the sh p's 
motion, which seems very possible, the use of such a machine must 
be so great, that no vessel ought to sail without one. A little char- 
coal, from its antiseptic quality, might perhaps be introduced with 
advantage among the strata ot gravel. The want i)f filtered water 
gives rise to more nephritic complaints than is imagined. 

JManagemcnt of Coffee in France. 

Those who wish to have excellent coffee, in France, roa^ii it every 
day as it is used : they even say, that it should be roasted, ground, 
infused, and drunk, in the space of two hours ; and assert that, if 
these processes be longer in succeeding eacli otl.cr, the cofiee loses 
much of that volatile spirit which constitutes all its agreeable flavour 
The quantity commonly used is an ounce to five cups of sprmg wa- 
ter, to produce four of good and clear coffee. In the mean time, it is 
usual (0 throw their coffee grounds into a vessel, boil them half an 
hour, and leave them to settle : this infusion so well serves for a 
third part of the coftee in powder, that in a cofiee-pot of fourteen 
cups of pure spring water, which should have three ounces to be 
good, two ounces with this i:ifusion will be of equal strength and good- 
ness. The operation of boiling tlie grounds is performed, in large 
coffee-houses, five or six times every day. This is the common 
way of making coftee throughout France, where it is generally drank 
with sugar and cream ; while, at difiercnt coffee-houses, and in par- 
ticular families, vanilla, isinglass, and other ingredicnis, are also in- 
troduced, as they have lately been in England. The French, beside 
breakfasting often on coftee, usually drink two cups about half an 
hour alter dinner, to hasten digestion, or abate the fumes of wine 
and liqueurs when they have been taken to exceed the bounds of ne- 
cessity. 

^lii invahiahh, thovgh cJcdvJy and easily made Mixture, for 
effectually destroying those noisome J^^ennin Bugs. 

Mix half a pint of spirts of turpenfne and iialf a pint of best 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 33 

rectified spirits of wine in a strong bottle, and add in small pieces 
about halfan ounce of camphire, wliich will dissolve in a i'cw minutes. 
Shake the niixtvue well together ; and, with a sponge or bni.'-h dip- 
ped in it, well wet the bed and furniture where ihe vermin ^jreed. 
This will infallibly destroy both them and iheir nits, though thev 
swarm. The dust, however, should be well brushed from the bed- 
stead and furniture, to prevent, from such carelessness, any stain. 
If that precaution is attended to, there will be no danger ol" soiling 
ihe richest silk or damask. 

On touching a live bug with only the tip of a jiiu put iiilo t!ic mix- 
ture, the insect will be instaii-(!y deprived of existence, and should 
any bugs happen to appear after using tlie mixture, it will only be 
from not wetting the linen, iS:c. of the bed ; the foldings or linings 
of the curtains near the rings or the joints, or holes in and about the 
bed or head-board, in which places the vermin nestle and breed ; so 
that those parts being well wetted with niore of the mixture, which 
dries as fast as it is used, and pouring it into the joints and holes, 
where the sponge and brush cannot reach, it will never liiil totally 
to destroy them. 

The smell of this mixture, tliough powcrfid, is extremely whole- 
some, and to many persons very agreeable. It exhales, however, in 
two or three days. 

Only one caution is iieccssaiy ; but that is important. The mix- 
ture must be well shaken when used ; but rieiur applied by candle- 
light, lest the spirits, being attracted by the flare of the candle, might 
cause a conflagration. 

Grand Ptisan, or Diet Drink of Health and Lovgeviti/, by a 
celebrated Freiuh Physician, uho lived nearly a hundred and 
twenty years. 

Thi: famous inventor of this admirable p.r<iIongcr of human exist- 
ence was Monsieur De Samte Cathaiine ; who, by taking it himself 
for a fortnight, three times a year, before winter, toward Easter, and 
during the greatest heats of summer, lived to the age of nearly an 
hundred and twenty years. This ptisan is proi:ouncrd useful to all 
sorts of persons : if they are ill, to cure them ; if well, to preserve 
them in health. It is even good for infants ; and, above all, excel- 
lent for old peoi>Ie. An intinitudc of facts altt-st its wonderful ef- 
fects. It is thus directed to be prepared : Take about a quart of the 
best-sifted and well-washed oats, and a small handfvd of wild succory 
roots newly drawn out of the earth ; boil them gently in six quarts 
of river water for three-quarters of an hour, and then add half an 
ounce of crystal mineral, and three or four spoonsful of the best 
honey, or a quarter of a pound of it in weight. Let the whole now 
boil half an hour longer; then strain it through linen, put the liquid 
n an earthen vessel, and leave it covered to cool. For persons of a 
bilious habit, only half the quantity of honey should be used, as the 
eweetness has a tendency to increase the bile. Two good glasses 
of this ptisan should be drardc every morning fasting, without eating 
my thing for some houi-s : and the same quantity three liours aftcj 



34 



THE NKW FAMILY 



dinner. This course must be condiiued for lourteeu days, without 
bleeding or conlineineiit, or lakinu broth, uew-hiid eggs, or any olhei 
piulicndar diet, but in all respects livisig as usual. The weak and 
iiilirm*nccd only take a single glass, and they will not fail to feel the 
jiood elfect. It is natural that persops who are too gross and costive 
should commence with some previous purgative ; after which thie 
remedy will prove more etficacious. This ptisan is easy to take, 
and pleasant in its operations ; not occasioning any griping pains or 
other disagreeable sensations : at the same time, it perfectly cleanses 
till! reins, is very diuretic, greatly promoi.es expectoration ; purges 
the brain ; cleanses the lungs, the liver, and the spfeen ; expels pu- 
trid aiii! ma'ignant humours, all pain tVom t!;e litad, gravel, and even 
stone when newly formed j cures tertian and quiirtan agues, how- 
ever inveterate ; all colics and pleurisies ; the itch, blotches, and 
other foul eruptions ; and, in short, every kind of heaviness, lassi- 
tude, and general debility. It rouses the senses, clears the sight, 
excites appetite, and gives rest and sleep. It refreshes, feeds, and 
conveys perfect health ; and even seems still sensibly operating, 
and doing good, for a month or two after it has been taken. It is, 
beside all this, very nourishing. Instead of weakening, as is the 
case with the greater part of other remedies, it absolutely strengthens : 
and, during the dog-days an<l greatest heats of summer, when medi- 
cines in general are subject to become dangerous, and even fatal, 
this is in fact more salutary than at any other season. It might, in- 
deed, be taken every day without doing the smallest injury ; (he 
party taking care, during intensely cold weather, to keep constanlly 
warm. To attain long life, it will perhaps be sufficient to take it for 
a fortnight once or twice in the year ; if once only, dining the great 
heats, as the best season for its use. This panegyric, however 
great, is translated almost verbatim from a most reypectable French 
author. It is undoubtedly an excellent medicine. 

Curious and Simple Manner of Keeping Apricots, Peac/us, 
JVectarincs. Plums, ^'C. and even Figs, fresh all the Year. 

For this small but excellent article, we arc indebted to no less a 
person than the celebrated Monsieur Lemery, one of the first che- 
mists France ever produced : Beat well up together equal quantities 
of honey and common water, pour it into an earthen vessel, put in 
the fruits all freshly gathered, and cover them up quite close. When 
any of the fruit is taken out, wash it in cold water, and it is Hi foi 
nnmediate use. 

Genuine Windsor Soap. 

To make this famous soap for washing the hands, shaving, tVe. 
uothing more is necessary, than to slice the best white soap as thin 
as possible, melt it in a stesv-pan over a slow fire, scent it well wilh 
oil of carraway, and then pour it into a frame or mould made IV,. 
that purpose, or a small drawer, adapted in size and form to (be 
quantity. When it iias stood three or four days in a dry situation, 
cut it into square pieces, and it is ready for use. By this sim[)le 
mode, substituting any more favourite scent for tha of carraway, aii 



UECEIPT-BOOK. 35 

persons ina} tait t.i3mselves with a good perfumed soap at (he tiiosi 
trifling expense. Shaving-boxes may be at once filled with the 
melted soap, instea*. nf a mould. 

irt of Dying or Staining Leniher Gloves, to resemble the 
beautiful York Tan, Limerick Dye, fyc. 

These dilTeront pleasing h'.ies of yellow hio.wn or tan colour, i:re 
readily imparted to leather gloves by the following simple process : 
Steep saflron in boiling hot soft water for about twelve hours : then 
having slightly sewed up the tops of the gloves, to prevent the dye 
from staining the insides, wet them over with a sponge or soft brush 
dipped into the liquid. The quantity of saffron, as well as of 
water, will of course depend on how much dye may be wanted ; 
and their relative proportions, or the depth of colour required. A 
common tea-cup will contain sufficient in quantity for a single pair 
of gloves. 

Art of tn a king Phosphoric Tapers or Matches. 

In a tubular piece of glass four inches long, and a single line 
only internal diameter, closed at one end, put a small bit of phos- 
phorus ; and pushing it to the extremity, introduce a taper covered 
slightly with wax, to fill up the rest of the tube, which must be her- 
metically sealed ; when plunging the other end into boiling water, 
the phosphorus melts, and adheres to the taper or match. A line 
is usually marked on the glass with a flint, at about one-third the 
length of the tube, where it is to be broken when the taper is wanted 
for use ; which being then briskly drawn out, will be found complete- 
ly lighted by the phosphorus. 

Easy Method of preparing Vhosphoric Bottles. 

Heat a common glass phial, by fixing it in a ladleful of sand ; 
then, putting in two or three minute bits of phosphorus, stir them 
about with a piece of red-hot iron wire, till the j)hosphorus is all 
spread over and adheres to the internal surfiice of the bottle, where 
it will form a reddish coating. When, by repeated introductions of 
the heated wire, this is com[)letely effected, the l>ottle is to remain 
open a quarter of an hour, and then be corked for use. One end of 
a common match being put into a bottle thus prepared, on touching 
the phosphorus, and being suddenly drawn out,- will be with certainty 
liilhted. As there can be no particular danger of accidental fire 
from the use of these bottles; and, wiih reasonable care in using 
them, and keeping them closely stopped, a single bottle would last 
a considerable time, and might, were the demand general, be replen- 
ished at a most triding expewse : it may, possiltly, in the hands of 
somo ingenious and enterprising person, be finally made to super- 
sede the tinder-box, that dreadful consumer of rags, and consequent 
enemy to the manuficture of paper. I'hos; horus is one of those 
grand discoveries of modern times, the chici utilities of which seera 
to he reserved for ? *'uUire and wiser age. 



.*J6 THK NKW lAMILY 

Sj)ecificalions of Lord William Murray'' s Patent jor extracting 
Starch from Horse Chesnvts. 

The jjatent for ihis ustTul invention and discovery is dated March 
8, 179C ; of course the exclusive privilege of extracting starch from 
horse chesnuts in llie following manner was confined to the patentee 
till the expiration of fourteen years. We shall present our curious 
readers \\iv.\ the mode of preparing this starch in his lordship's own 
words, extracted frou. the specification in the Patent Office : " I first 
take the horse chesnuts out of the outnard green prickly husks ; 
and then, either by hand, with a knife or other tool, or else with a 
mill adapted for that purpose, I very carefully pare off the brown 
rind : being particular not to leave the smallest speck, and to entirely 
eradicate the sprout or growth. I next take the ruits, and rasp, grate, 
or grind, them line into wafer : either by hand, or by a mill adapted 
for that purpose. The pulp, which is thereby formed in that water, 
I wash as clean as possii)le through a coarse hair sieve ; and then, 
again, through a still finer ; constantly adding clean water, to pre- 
vent any starch from adhering to the pulp. The last process is, to 
put it, with a large quantity of water, about four gallons to a pound 
of starch, through a fine gauze, muslin, or lawn, so as entirely to 
clear it of all bran, or other impurities. As soon as it settles, I pour 
off the water, and then mix it up with clean ; repeating this opcralion 
till it no longer imparts any green, yellow, or other colour, to the 
water. I then drain it off, till nearly dry ; and set it to bake, either 
in the usual mode of baking starch, or else spread out before a brisk 
fire ; being very attentive to stir it frequently, to prevent its horning ; 
that is to say, turning to a paste or jelly, which, on being dried, turns 
hard like horn. The whole process shoidd be conducted as quick 
as possible. The utility of this invention requires no comment 
Should it come into general use, not only a vast consumption or 
wheat flour must be saved ; but, from the necessity of planting more 
chesnut trees, for the sake of a fruit hilherto considered as of no 
sort of value, much of that excellent and beaulifLd wood will be pro- 
duced for the many purjjoses to which it is applicable. 

Patent Potato Composition to he used instead of Yeast. 

For this ingenious contrivance, which introduces polatos as a 
aort of leaven for making wheaten bread, a patent was (jbtained by 
the inventor, Mr. Richard Tillycr Blunt, in the year 17S7; which, 
of course, is now expired. The following is the process for this 
purpose, as described by Mr. Blunt in his specification : To make 
a yeast gallon of this composition, such yeast gallon containing 
eight beer quarts, boil in conunon water eight pounds of potatos 
as for eating ; bruise them perfectly smooth ; and mix with them 
while warm, two ounces of honey, or any other sweet, and one beer 
quart of common yeast. For making bread, mix three beer pints 
of the above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm wafer 
m making the bread. The water . : be warmer in winter than in 
nummer, and the co Mposition to be ised in a few hours after it is 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 37 

Giado : and, as soon as the sponge, or the laixture of the composi- 
tion with the (lour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should be 
made, and put in the oven. 

Britannic Elastic f!uin. 

For the invention of this curious and „seful composition, a i)aten( 
was obtained, in the year 17S1, by Mr. Albert Angel : who describe? 
it, in his specification, as being very serviceable and useful in the 
several branches of portrait and house painting, by making the co- 
lours durable and free from peeling ; as of great utility in gilding, 
painting, penciling, and staining of silks, calicos, &c. and in dress- 
ing silk, linen, and cotton, in the loom, instead of gum or paste, 
so as to strengthen the threads of the finest cottons ; as excellent 
for beautifying and fixing the colours on paper, equal to that done 
in India ; as of the greatest use for rendering the clay, or composi- 
tion, used in modeling, suHiciently supple, and preventing its drying 
too fast ; and, lastly, not less eftectual in causing a transparency of 
colours fit for china and earthen ware, so as to stand baking or burn- 
ing. This Britannic gum is stated to be prepared in the following 
very simple manner : Put into an iron kettle, and melt down to- 
gether, till the mixture become this composition or elastic gum, a 
gallon of linseed or nut oil, a pound ot" yellow or bleached bees' 
wax, six pounds of glue or size, a quarter of a [)Ound of verdigreasc, 
a quarter of a pound of litharge, a'ld two quarts of spring or ram 
water. 

JVest India Bitters, or Ant'i- Bilious Drops. 

Thk following is said to have been T )usaint's, late Emperor of 
Flayti, celebrated bitters, called by him anti-bilious drops, and used 
generally throughout the West India islands : Take three drachms 
of Seville orange peel ; two drachms of gentian root ; one drachm 
each of cardamoms, grains of paradise, and gallengals ; half a drachm 
each of nutmeg and cloves ; one scruple each of saffron and cochi- 
neal ; and half a handful each of camomile flowers and Roman 
wormwood. Infuse the whole in two quarts of brandy, rum, or 
Madeira v/inc ; and, after it has stood some time, pour oif what is 
clear, and add to the ingredients a quart more of either liquor, though 
brandy is considered as best for the purpose. This, too, having re- 
mained a somewhat longer time, and been occasionally shaken, may 
be in like manner poured off for use. 'I\vo tea-spoonsful, or some- 
what less, are directed to be taken, an hour before dinner, in half a 
glass of wine. 

Oxymel of Garlic for Asthmatic Complaints, Rheumatism, fyc. 

N a general sense, oxymels are any compositions of honey and 
vinegar boiled to the consistence of a syrup. Simple oxymel, for 
example, is merely clarified honey melted in an equal weight of wa- 
ter, with the addition of as much vinegar as water, boiled to the con- 
sistence of a syrup, and even this, taken about half an ounce at a 
time, is said to att?nuate gross h'i"ic "s, carry awav slimy matter, 



38 



THE NKW fAMILT 



open old stoppages and oljstructions of the It ngs, and remove 
phlegm, with whatever else occasions shortness cf breath. In the 
humid asthnu', for promoling expectoration and the fluid cecretions, 
&c. the oxymel of garlic seems to stand in still higher estimation 
with the faculty It is thus made: Boil, in a pint of vinegar, half an 
ounce of cleansed carraway and sweet fennel seeds, for about a 
quarter of an hour ; then take it off the fne, slice in three ounces o( 
garlic, and cover it closely up. As .;oon as it becomes cold, the li- 
quor must be strained and expressed ; and mixed, by the heat of a 
water bath, with a pound and a quarter of clarified honey, to a pro- 
per syrupy consistence. A tea-spoonful or two of this oxymel, taken 
occasionally, particularly night and morning, will scarcely ever fail 
of proving beneficial to all persons afflicted with an asthma. It is also 
frequently serviceable in rheumatic complaints, especially when as- 
sisted by warm embrocations. 

The Honourable J\lr. Charles IJamilton^s Method of TtiaJiino 
Grape fiines, fully equal to Champaio-n and Old Hock, from 
the jPruit of his beautiful Vineyard at Paints Hill, in Surry, 
England. 

The vineyard belonging to Pain's Hill, one of the finest country 
residences in the united kingdom, is situated on the south side of 
a gentle hill, the soil being gravelly sand. It is planted entirely w ith 
two sorts of Burgundy grapes : the Avcrnat, which is the most de- 
licate and tender ; and the miller's grape, originally so named frora 
the powdered whiteness on the leaves in the spring, called in Eng- 
land the Black cluster or Burgundy grape. We shall give, in the 
Honourable Mr. Hamilton's own words, his valuable account of the 
process pursued, and its successful effect : " The first year I attempt- 
ed to make wine in the usual way, by treading the grapes ; then let- 
ting them ferment in the vat till all the husks and impurities formed 
a thick crust at the top, the boiling ceased, and the clear wine w as 
drawn ofl* from the bottom. This essay did not answer. The wine 
was so very harsh and austere, that I despaired of ever making rea 
wine fit to drink ; but, through that harshness, I perceived a flavour 
something like that of small French white wines, which made me 
hope I should succeed better with white wine. 'I hat experimeiit 
succeeded far beyond my most sanguine expectations, for, the very 
first year I made white wine, it nearly resenibled the flavour of 
Champaign ; and, in two or three years more, as the wjuq grew stron- 
ger, to my great amazement, my wine had a finer flavour than ihe 
best Cham])aign I ever tasted. The first running was as clear as 
spiiits ; the second running was (pildc per drix, or partridge-eye .co- 
lour ; and both sparkled and creamed in the glass like Champaign. 
It would be endless to mention how many good judges of wine wera 
deceived by my wine, and thought it su[ierior to any Champaign they 
had ever dratdc. Even the Duke de ]\Iirepolx preferred it to any 
other wine. But, such is the prejudice of some people against any 
thing of English growth, I generally foimd it most prudent not to de 
clare where it grew till after they passe J their verdict on it. Thp 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 



39 



(Surest proof [ can give of its excellence is, that I have sold it to win© 
merchants for fifty guineas a hojf.shcad ; and one wine tnerciiant, to 
whom [ sold five liundred pounds worth at one time, assured me he 
sold some of the best of it from seven shillings and sixpence to ten 
shillings per bottle. After many yoar.-i experience, the best method 
1 found of managing it was this : I let the grapes hang, till they had 
got a'.l the maturity the season would give them ; then they were 
carefully cut off with scissors, and brought home to the wine barn 
in small quantities to prevent their breaking or pressing one another. 
The:i, they were all picked olFthe stalks, and all the mouldering or 
green ones discarded, before they were committed to the press ; 
where they were aJl pressed in a few hours after they were gathered. 
Much would run from them, before the press squeezed them, from 
their own weight on one another. This running was as clear as 
water, and as sweet as syrup ; and all of the first pressing, and part 
of the second, continued white : the other pressings grew reddish, 
and were not mixed with the best. As fast as the juice run from the 
press into a large receiver, it was put into the hogsheads, and closely 
bunged up. In a few hours, one woold hear the fermentation begin ; 
which would soon burst the casks, if not guarded again by hooping 
them strongly with iron, and securing them in strong wooden 
frames, and the heads with wedges. In the heii;ht of the fermen- 
tation, I have frequently seen the wine oozing through the pores of 
the staves. These hogsheads were left all the depth of winter 
in the cold barn, to have the benefit of the frost. When the fermen- 
tation was over, which was easily discovered by the cessation of the 
noise and oozing, (but, to be more certain, the pegging the cask 
showed when it would be quite clear,) then it was racked off into 
clean hogsheads, and cariied to the vaults, before any warmth of 
weather could raise a second fermentation. In March the hogsiieads 
were examined. If they were not quite fine, they were fined down 
with common fish glue or isinglass, in the usual manner ; those 
which were fine of themselves were not fined down. All were bot- 
tled about the end of March ; and, in about six weeks more, would 
be in perfect order for drinking, and would be in their prime for above 
one year : but, the second year, the flavour would abate ; and would 
gradually decline, till it lost all flavour and sweetness. Some, 
lliat I kept sixteen years, became so like Old Hock, that it might 
pass for such to one who was iKJt a perfect connoisseur. The only 
art I ever used to it was, putting three pounds of white sugar-candy 
to some of the hogsheads, when the wine was first tunned from the 
!^ress ; in order to conform to a rage tliut prevailed, to drink none but 
very sweet Champaign.'' In the astonishing success of this pro- 
cess, we see demonstrated how little assistance from art is required 
by nature, provided that little be judiciously ap^died. 

drt of Extracting Spots of Grease, Tallow, Oil, S/c. from Fc- 
luable Books, Prints, and Papers of all Sorts, without thi 
smallest Injury to the. Printing or JVriting. 

The frequencj of such accidents as spot with grease valuabUi 



40 THE NEW FAMILY 

priiifed books, p..ints, ledgers, and other account books, as wcK aa 
letters and wriiirgs of all descriptions, renders the method of rcntoy< 
ing lliem to their pristine purity of appearance an article of no littla 
importance. For this purpose, the following is the exact process : 
Having in readiness some common blotting paper, gently warm the 
si)()lled part of the book, or other article damaged by grease, tallow, 
or oil ; and, as it melts, take u|) as much as possible, by repca'.ed 
applications of fresh bits of the blotting paper. When no more can 
thus be imbibed, dip a small U-ush in the essential oil of well-rectified 
spirit of turpentine heated almost to a boiling state ; and wet with it 
both sides of the paper, which should also be at the same time a lit- 
tle warm. This operation must be repeated till all the grease be ex- 
tracted : when another brush, dipped in highly rectified spirit of wine, 
being passed over the same part, the spot or spots will entirely dis- 
appear, and the paper re-assume its original whiteness, without de- 
triment of any sort to the paper, or any printed or written characters 
previously impressed thereon. 

Blaikie^s Patent Suhstitiite for Gum, in thickening Colours 
for Calico Printers, ^c. 

This useful article is thus described by Mr. Francis Blaikie of 
(xlasgow, the patentee, in his specification : The gum substitute, 
to thicken colours for linen and calico printing, and making up or 
furnishing printers' colour tubs, and which may also be applied to 
several other uses, is prepared by boiling any quantity of flax-seed 
in a sufficient quantity of water, till the whole substance be extract- 
ed ; and, having strained it through a linen or woollen cloth, again 
boiling down the liquor to the consistence of a jelly. This is to be 
kept in a close vessel ; and, for preservation, to have a little stj-ong 
spirits put in, or some sweet oil poured on the top. It might, how- 
ever, be preserved with bitters. The printer, in using this substitute, 
may either put a certain quantity into a gallon of colour, according 
to the nature of it, and the particular kind of work to be done, and 
regulate himself by trial, as is common in using gum, or reduce the 
substitute by boiling it in water to the consistence (hat may be foimd 
requisi-le. 

French JSlethod of Making Garlic Vinegar. 

This, which is one of the favourite French vinegars, is thus sim- 
ply made : Steep an oimce of garlic in two quarts of the best white- 
wine vinegar, wiih a nutmeg soaked and cut in bits, and about a do- 
zen cloves. 

Fine Tarragon Finegar. 

The peculiar and agreeable spicy warmth which this slightly- 
bitter herb, the x\rte;nesia dracuuculus of the Linmean system, com- 
municates to vinegar, makes it much used for that purpose, as well 
as in salads, soups, &c. throughout P^ur /pe. In Spain, and the 
Bouth of France, it g-ows naturally to great perfection; and it 
flourishes in the soil of uv English gardens, where it flowers in 
July, and pr );laces ripe seed ; in autumn. The best way oif making 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 41 

tatTftgon vinegar is, by putting a quantity of the fresh leaves loost-ly 
into ajar, and then filling it up with vinegar to the height first occu- 
pied by the leaves ; if, for example, the jar must be thus apparently 
filled, there will be still room enough for the proper quantity of 
vinegar. After it has thus remained two or three weeks, chiefiy in the 
sun or other warm situation, it may be strained off", and passed through 
a cotton or flannel jelly-bag ; and, if not s jfficiently fine for putting 
up n bottles, is to be citvired in the usual way, cither by means of 
isinglass or a little ahim water. It is commonly kept in large bottles, 
which should be well corked, and placed in a dry situation. As tar- 
ragon is strongly recommended to be eaten with lettuce, this vinegai 
may in some measure supply khe place of the herb : as a corrector 
of coldness, it is also advisable to be used with cucumbers, &c. 
The famous Evelyn says, that tarragon is not only highly cordial, but 
friendly to the head, heart, anc. liver, and a great corrector of the 
weakness of the ventricle. 

Vinegar of Roses. 

This fine and beautiful vinegar is made by pouring the best white 
wine vinegar into a jar or bottle loosely filled with rose leaves, and 
letting it remain and be treated exactly after the same manner as the 
tarragon ; putting, however, into each bottle, a lump of refined sugar. 
Precisely in this way are also to be made vinegars of gilly-flowers, 
elder-flowers, &c. 

Cheap and excellent Blue Colour for Ceilings, ^-c. 
Boil, slowly, for three hours, a pound of blue vitriol, and half a 
pound of the best whiting, in about three quarts of water : stir it 
frequently while boiling, and also on taking it off" the fire. When it 
has stood till quite cold, pour oft' the blue liquor; then mix the cake 
of colour with good size, and use it with a plasterer's brush in the 
same inannty- as white-wash, either for walls or ceilings. 

Composition for cleaning Marble Hearths, Chimney Pieces, 
Jllahastt-', 4t- 
Mix finely pulverized pun)ice stone with verjuice, somewhat more 
than suificieut to rover it ; and, after it has stood an hour or more, 
dip a sponge iu the composition, rub it well over the marble or ala- 
baster which requires cleaning, wash it oft" with warm water, and dry 
it with clean linen or cotton cloths. 

Jlrt of Manvfacturing the fine lied and Yellow Morocco 

Leather, as practised inCrim Tartary. 
The celebrated Tour of Mrs. Guthrie, in Taurida, or the Crimea, 
.ommonly called Crim Tartary, which was made by that lady in 1795 
and 1796, furnishes the particulars of this interesting article. In 
the city of Karasubazar, Mrs. Guthrie informs us, there is an ancient 
manufactory of I>Iorocco leather, v.here great quantity are prepared 
with the skins of the numerous flocks of Tauric goatg. The process 
is thus desci!bed : After steeping the rawhides in cold water foi 
twenty-four hours to free them iVom the blood and othei- impurities 



42 THK NKW KAMII-y 

the flesliy parts arc scrnpcd ofT with projicr iiistnimeiits ; when tiicy 
are macerated for ten days in (old lime water, to loosen the hair, 
which is likewise scraped oH'as clean as possible. Bein;if then soak- 
ed in cold common water for fifteen days, they are trod or worked 
luider foot in a succession of fresli waters ; till, at length, an admix- 
ture of do;i;'s dung being addt;d, they receive a second scraping, and 
are drained of their himiidity. They next proceed to what they de- 
nominate feeding the skins, by steeping them four days in a cold in 
fusion of wheat bran ; and then in a decoction of twenty-eight poimda 
of honey to live pails of water, cooled to the temperature of milk 
from tlie cow. After remaining thus steeped the same period, they 
are put into a vessel with holes at ihe bottom, and pressed till all the 
liquid hits escaped. Lastly, they are steeped, for another four days 
in a sliglit solution of salt and water, one pound only to five pails, 
when the leather is (juite ready for the reception of the dye. A 
strong decoction of Artemisa annua, or southernwood, in the pro- 
portion of four pounds to ten pails of water, seems to be the basis 
of all the different colours which they give to the Morocco in the 
Taurida, Astracan, and the other cities formerly belonging to the 
Turkish empire, where the secret has till now remained. When a 
red colour is required, one pound of powdered cochineal is gradually 
stirred into ten pails of the fine yellow decoction of Artemisa, with 
five or SIX drachms of alum spread on th.e leather, in a proper ves 
scl. They are next worked under foot, in an infusion of oak leaves 
in warm water, till they become supple and soft ; when they are 
finished, by being rinsed in cold water, rubbed over with olive oil, 
and calendered w itii wooden rollers. Yellow Morocco leather is dyed 
with a ctonger decoction of Artemisa, twenty pounds to Mir^ '*''« 
of water ; nothing being added, but two pounds of powdered amn,, 
which is gradually introduced, by half a table spoonful at a ... c. 
Ilach skin is twice stained, previously to the final operations of od- 
ing an-d calendering. It is also necessary to remark, that the skins 
are prepared in a somewhat diflerent mode for the yellow Morocco 
leather, than for the red. Neither honey nor salt is used ; but, in- 
stead of the decoction of honey, immediately after the skins are 
taken out of the wheat bran infusion, they are steeped two days in 
an infusion of oak leaves : after which, they are next rinsed in cold 
water, and thus made ready for staining yellow. Mrs. Guthrie can- 
didly acknowledges, tliat the above is all the certain information 
which she has been able to obtain on this curious subject ; as she 
could by no means depend on the vague reports which she had heard 
relative to the colouring matter added f"or staining the green and blue 
kinds. It may, however, be presumed, that the light, which this 
lady has thrown on the process of dyin; Morocco leather in ge- 
neral, will sufliciently guide our manufa' turers to a judicious search 
after those particular but inferior (bjec' i, which yet remain undis- 
covered. 

Furkish Rouge ; or, Secret of the Seraglio for making an 
admirable Carmine. 
Infuse, for three or four days, ii ■^ bottle of the finest white winp 



KKCK JPT-BOOIC. * 43 

TlDegar, half a pound of FornaHiboiirir Biasil \voc>d, of a golden red 
colour, well pDunded in a mortar. JJoil th<3in together halfan hoi:, 
strain them through linon, and [)lace the h.juid again over the rtrti. 
In the mean time, having dissolved a quarter of a pound of alum in 
a pint of white wine vinegar, mix the two liquids, and stir them wcE 
together with a spatula. The scum which now arises, on being 
carerully taken ofF and gradually dried, will prove a most beautilul 
delicate, and perfectly inuflensive, rouge or carmine. 

Pu"ified Synip of jMolasses. 
In many parts of the continent of Europe, a method has for some 
years been successfully practised, on a large scale, of divesting mo- 
lasses, vulgarly called trea -le, of its peculiar mawkish and unplea- 
sant taste, so as to render it, for many pm'i)oses, little less usel'u] 
and pleasant than sugar. Indeed, unless it be for cordials mi\e(l 
with spices, or in domestic dishes where milk is an ingredient, it may 
very generally be substituted for sugar. The process for thus pre- 
paring it is sufficiently simple, and by no means expensive : Boil 
twelve |>ounds of molasses, with three pounds of coarsely-pounded 
charcoal, in six quarts of water, over a slow fire. After the mixture 
has been stirred together, and sinmiered for at least half an hour, 
decant it into a deep vessel ; and, when the charcoal has subsided, 
pour off the liquid, and again place it over the fire, that the super- 
fluous water may eva])orate, and restore the syrup to about its ori- 
ginal consistence. Thus refined, it will produce twelve pounds of a 
mild and good syrup, proper for use in many articles of food, &;c. 

Art of preparing a fine lied Lake from Dutch JMadder. 

The use of madder, in dying a fine red colour, and also as a first 
tint for several other shades, has long rendered it famous among 
dyers ; and, by the following process, it will afi'ord a permanent lake 
of a fine red, applicable to every purpose of painting : Dissolve two 
ounces of the purest alum in three quarls of dislillod water previously 
boiled in a clean glazed vessel, and again set over the fire. ^Vith- 
draw the solution as soon as it begins to simmer, and add to it two 
ounces of the best Dutch maddci ; then, boiling it up once or twice, 
remove it from the fire, and filtc it tlireugh clean white paper. Let 
the liquor thus filtered stand all .light to subside ; and. next day, 
pour the clear flmd into the glazed vessel, heat it over llie fire, and 
gradually add a strained solution of salt of tartar, till the madder be 
•vbolly precipitated. The mixture nuist now be again filtered, and 
^(»|lin<•• distilled water be poured <>n the red powd<r till the fluid no 
Mifger obtains a saline taste. Nothing more is now net e.>-sary, but 
- dry the lake, which will be of a deep red colour. If two parts of 
madder be \\<v(\ to one of alum, the shade will be still deeper ; and, 
if one j)art of the latter article hf added to four parts of the former, % 
^)eautiful rose rolotu" will be jj»>.'"f*ed. 

Clarified. Goose Grease. 
GoosK ,'^rease is a valuable but neglected artu-fe in most famiMes j 
and, when projierl ".larified, forms a most del'-iate basis for man 



^A ' THE NEW FAMILY 

culinary purposes. This is easily efTected by the .'•oHowing simple 
process : On drawing a goot-e, separate all (he internal fat, and put 
it l)\ in a basin. When the <:o()sc is roasted, carefully preserve the 
dripping separated from (he gravy, &c. which is most ellectually 
done on its getting quite cold. The sooner this is put in a saucepan, 
with the raw fat, accompanied by a small onion having three cloves 
stuck into it, the better. Heing gently simmered, press it with a 
wooden spoon till the whole be melted ; then, having well scummed 
it, pass it through a sieve, into ajar capable of containing whatever 
(pianli(y is likely to be thus added during the season. A moderate 
use of this article will render many dishes inconceivably savoury, 
particularly rice, thick soups, force-meats, &c. It should be served 
out with a wooden spoon ; and, if kept in a cool place, properly co- 
vered, will continue sweet and good the year round. 

Composition fo}- licstoring scorched Linen. 

The fi)llowing composition will be found completely to restore 
linen which has been scorched in ironing, or by hanging too near tne 
fire, &c. accidents that too frequently occur ; and, hitherto, without 
any efiectual remedy : Boil to a good consistency, in half a pint o* 
vinegar, two ounces of fullers' earth, an ounce of hen's dung, nalt' 
an ounce of cake soap, and the juice of two onions. Spread tnis 
composition over the whole of the damaged part ; and, if the scorcn- 
ing were not quite through, and the threads actually consumed, aiter 
sufTering it to dry on, and letting it receive a subsequent good wash- 
ing or two, the place will appear full as white and perfect as any other 
part of the linen. 

Easy French Method to prevent Bacon from becoming Rusty. 

When the bacon has been salted about a fortnight, put it in a box 
the size of the flitches or pieces to be preserved, on a good bedding 
of hay : and wrap each piece round entirely with hay, placing also a 
layer between every two flitches or pieces. The box must, of course, 
he closed, to keep out rats, Ike. In this slate, it w ill continue as good 
as at first, and without (he possibility of getting rusty, for much lon- 
ger than a year, as has frequently been experienced. It must, how- 
ever, be kept in a place free from damp. 

Best Saxon Bine. 

INIix an ounce of the best powdered indigo with ibur ounces of oil 
of vitriol, in a glass body, and digest it for an hour with the heat 
of boiling water, frequently shaking the mixture. Then add three 
quarters of a pint of water ; stir the whole well together ; and, when 
cold, filter i\ This produces a very r'ch deep blue colour ; if wanted 
paler, more water must be added. The heat of boiling water, which 
is sufficient for this operation, can never spoil the colour. By pre- 
viously digesting (he indigo in a large quantity of spirit of wme, dry 
ing it, and then using it as above, a still finer blue may be produced ; 
bu tais is not or ^n judged necessary, except for very fine paintings. 



RECEIPT-BOOK 



45 



/%« Reverend Mr. Cartwrighfs Account of the Wonderfv^ 

Ejjicacy of Yea.it in the Cure of Putrid Diseases. 
The foiiowing account of the Reverend Mr. Cartwright's first 
discover)', and subsequent experience, of the good effects of ad- 
ministering yeast in putrid sore throats, fevers, &c. cannot be too 
generally made known : — " Several years ago," says this gentleman, 
for we shall transcribe verbatim his own highly interesting narrative, 
" I went to reside at Brampton, a very populous village near Ches- 
tertield. I had not been there many months before a putrid fever broke 
out among us ; and, finding by far the greater number of my new 
parishioners much too poor to afford themselves medical assistance, 
I undertook, by the help of such books on the subject of medicine 
as were in my possession, to prescribe for them. I early attended a 
boy about fourteen years of age, who was attacked by this fever ; he 
h:ul not been ill many days, before the symptoms were unequivocally 
putrid. I then administered bark, wine, and such other remedies as 
my books directed. My exertions, however, were of no avail : his 
disorder grew every day more untraclable and malignant, so that 1 
was m hourly expectation of his dissolution. Being under the abso- 
lute necessity of taking a journey, before Iset off I went to see him, 
as 1 thought for the last time ; and I prepared his parents for the 
event of his death, which I considered as inevitable ; reconciling 
them, in the best manner I was able, to a loss which I knew they 
wouid teel severely. While I was in conversation on this distressing 
subject with his mother, I observed, in a corner of the room, a small 
tub of wort working. The sight brought to my recollection an ex- 
perunent I had somewhere met with, of a piece of putrid meat 
being made sweet by suspending it over a tub of wort in the act of 
fermentation. The idea instantly flashed into my mind, that thi 
yeast might correct the putrid natme of this disease : and I instantly 
gave him two large spoonsful, telling the mother, if she found her 
son better, to repeat this dose every three hours. I then set out on 
my journey. On my return, after a few days, I anxiously inquired 
about the boy, and was informed he had recovered. I could not re- 
press my curiosity. Though I was greatly fatigued with my journev, 
and night was come on, I went directly to where he lived ; which 
was three miles off, in a wild part of the moors. The boy himself 
opened the door ; looked sui-])risingly well ; and told me, that ho 
felt better from the instant he took the yeast. After I left Brampton, 
F lived in Leicestershire ; and, my parishioners being there few and 
op\ilcnt, I dropped entirely my medical character, and would not 
even prescribe for any of my own family. One of my domestics 
fulling ill, accordingly the apothecary was sent for. The servant's 
complaint was a violent fever ; which, in its progress, became putrid. 
Having great reliance, and deservedly, on the apothecary's penetra- 
tion and judgment, the man was left solely to his management. His 
disorder, however, kept daily gaining ground : till, at length, the 
apothecary considered him in very great danger. At last, finding 
every effort to be of service to him baffled, he told me, he consi- 
dered it as a lost case ; for, in his opinion, the man could not survive 



/If) 



THE SEW FAMILY 



four and twenty hours. On tlie apotliecary thus giving hirn up, 1 
determined to try the efiecis of yciist, and gave him two large tea- 
Hpoonsful. In fifteen minutes from taking it, liis pul^e, tliough still 
feeble, began to gel composed and full ; and, in tliirly-two minutes 
from taking tiie yeast, he was^hle to get up from his bed, and walk 
in his room. At the expiration of the second hour, I gave him a 
basin of sago, with a good deal of lemon wine, and ginger in it, and 
he ate it with appetite. In another hour, I repealed the yeast ; an 
lour afterward, 1 ga-'e him the bark ; and, the next hour, he had 
food. He had, next, another dose of yeast ; and then went to bed, 
being nine o'clock. I went to him next morning, at six o'clock ; when 
he told me he had had a good night, and was recovered. I, how- 
ever, repeated his medicine, and he was able to go about his busi- 
ness as usual. A year alter this, as I was riding past a detached 
farm-liouse at the outskirl- of the village, 1 observed the farmer's 
tlaughter standing at the door apparently in great affliction. On in- 
quiring into the cause of her distress, she told me her father was 
dving. I dismounted, and went into the house to see him. I found 
nim in the last stage of a putrid fever ; his tongue was black ; his 
pulse was scarcely perceptible ; and he lay stretched out, like a 
corpse, in a state of drowsy insensibiUty. i immediately procured 
some yeast ; which I diluted with water, and poured down his throat. 
I then left him, with little hope of his recovery. I returned to him 
in about two hours ; and found him sensible, and able to converse. 
I then gave him a dose of bark. He afterward took, at a propei 
interval, some refreshment. I continued with him till he repeated the 
yeast ; and then left him, with directions how to proceed. I called 
on him the next morning at nine o'clock, and found him apparently 
well, walking in his garden. He was an old man, upwards of seventy. 
I have, since, administered the yeast to above fifty persons labour- 
ing under putrid fevers ; and, what is singular, I have not lost one 
patient." Dr. Thornton, whose opportunities have been great, as 
superintending physician of the General Dispensary, including the 
poor of nine parishes in Ijondon, has made frequent trials of yeast. 
In St. Giles's, particularly, among the numerous poor of that crowd- 
ed district, he administers, in putrid diseases, after cleansing the 
first passages, nothing else but two table spoonsful of yeast in some 
porter, every two hours; and, in about fif:y successive cases, not a 
single patient died under this treatment. The following cases are 
selected, from this physician's successful practice, as peculiarly in- 
teresting. As Dr. Thornton was accidentally passing the shop of Mr. 
Ihirford, in Tottenham Court lioad, he heard the shrieks of a mo- 
ther, agonized at seeing her child apparently expire. These alarming 
screams renewed the struggles of the cliild ; and the nurse was, at this 
moment, threatening to take away the child, that it might die in peace. 
The doctor inmiediately got down sonie tartar emetic, which quickly 
acted on the stomach ; and, that operation ended, gave a dose of 
rhubarb, to clear also the intestines. He iheii ordered the child yeasf 
and water every two hours, wiih wine and bark; and, iji tliree days, 
the dying child was up and well The infection had spread to two 



RE'JKlt'T-bOOK. 47 

other persons in the same house. With liii.-?, and another child, the 
putrid fever was attended by swelled glands, which had suppurated, 
and threatened nioitilication : with a robust servant girl, it took the 
torni ot" a putrid sore throat. This girl also had an emetic, and after- 
ward rhubarb, followed by yeast and water every two hours. The 
(irst ellect of the yeast was that of rendering the pulse fuller, and 
ditninishing it fifteen beats a minute : the blackness of her tongue 
soon began to assnu'c a clean and a red appearance ; and, without 
either bark or wine, she was speedily restored to health. In Husband- 
street, a very confined situation near Berwick-street, a malignant 
fever prevailed ; which, within a fortnight, had swept away six per- 
sons from three houses oidy, w hen Dr. '1 hornton was called in, to 
the assistance of a mother, who lay in the same bed with her two 
children. She was delirious ; and violently rejected both food and 
medicine, with which she was, consequently, obliged to be drenched. 
After an emetic and cathartic had been got down each, herself and 
children were all put on the same plan : that is, each was made to 
swallow, every three hours, two-thirds of a glass of fresh porter, 
with two table spoonsful of yeast, and the juice of half a lemon. '1 he 
fvjod given at intervals v>'as the white of eggs, beat uj) with some su- 
gar and water ; the doctor judging that, a* the white of eggs, even 
under the heat of a hen's body during incubation, does not corrupt, 
but actually serves as milk to t!ie embryo in the shell, this was of all 
things least liable to putrefy. Strawberries, being in season, were 
also ordered ; and, with this management alone, she and her little 
family all rapidly recovered. More testimonies might easily be add- 
ed, and from several other respectable practitioners ; but farther 
proofs seem unnecessary to establish the prodigious efficacy of yeast, 
in one of the most fatal class of maladies with which human nature 
is peculiarly subject to be afflicted. Where, indeed, is the family, 
which has not suffered by the dreadful ravages of some putrid disease, 
which, under Providence, a knowledge of this simpJe but potent 
emedy, and for which we are indebted to the Reverend Mr. Cart- 
wright, might happily have prevented ! 

Admirnhle Cement, or JMortar, as made on the Cotsxvold Hills. 

On the Cotswold Hills, in Gloucestershire, where lime is dear, aiwj 
sand not to be had, an excellent mortar Is prepared at a moderate 
price. Invention is seldom more successful than when it is prompted 
by necessity. The scrapings of the public roads over these hills, 
being levigated lime-stone, more or less i;:ipregnated with the dung 
and urine of the animals travelling on them, are found to be a most 
admirable basis for cement. The scrapings are often used for ordi- 
nary walls ; and the general proportion, for even the beet buildings, iy 
not more than one part hme to three of scrapings. Thisriortar, of less 
than ten years standing, has been )bserve'i to possess a stone-like 
tenacity, much firmer than the common stone of the country ; and, 
consequently, much harder than the stones from which either the 
basis or the lime was made. The method of preparing this powerful 
inortar, or cement, is simply by collecting the r'md pcrnpings, slack' 



48 THE NEW FA.MIL/ 

ing the lime, and mi\uig them very thoroughly together ; carefully 
picking out, as the mass is worked over, the stones or other Ibu'iiessrs 
which may have been collected. For stone-work, this is quite tufli- 
cient; for brick- work, it might be necessary to pass the rnaterialu 
(iiroiigh a screen or sieve, previously to their being united, and madi' 
.ip into mortar. Similar scrapings may be collected, wherever hmo 
^tofle is used as a material in making oi repairing roads ; this admi- 
rable mortar can, therefore, readily be prepared, in all such places, 
with very little trouble or expense. 

Ancient British Liquor, called Bragget. 

This once famous old British liquor is still made by a few respec- 
table families, chiefly in Wales ; from one of which we have been 
favoured with an admirable method of preparing it. The original 
AVelsh name is bragod ; from which has been formed that of bragget, 
or braggot, for it is found both ways in the few old dictionaries and 
other books where it occurs, and simply defined as a drink consist- 
ing of honey and spices. Were this correct, it could only be con- 
sidered as the Welsh appellation of mead or metheglin ; but, accord- 
ing to our information, bragget implies a combination of malt liquor 
with honey and spices, the best method of preparing which is as fol- 
lows : Take after the rate of a gallon of water to a pound of honev, 
and stir it till the honey be melted. Then, adding half a handful 
each of rosemary tops, bay-leaves, sweet briar, angelica, balm, 
thyme, or other sweet herbs, with half an ounce of sliced gingc^, 
and a httle nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and a few cloves, boil them 
gently together for nearly half an hour ; scumming it well, till it looks 
tolerably clear. In the mean time, having pre[)ared three gallons of 
the first runnings of strong ale, or sweet wort, mix the two liquids quite 
hot, with all the herbs and spices ; and, stirring them together for 
some time over a fire, but without suffering them to boil, .strain ofl 
the liq\ior, and set it to cool. W^hen it becomes only the warmth of 
new milk, ferment it with good ale yeast ; and, after it nas properly 
worked, tun it up, and hang a bag of bruised spices in the barrel, 
where it is to remain all the time of drawing. It is generally drank 
from the cask ; but may be bottled, like other liquors, any time after 
it has entirely ceased to hiss in the barrel. A weaker sort of brag 
l^et is sometimes prepared with the third runnings of the ale, a si- 
ler proportion of honey, and the strained spices, &c. with a few . 
herbs ; the second runnings, in that case, being made the family 
These arrangements, however, and other obvious deviations, u 
made according to the taste or inclination of the respective parlies. 

fVonderful effect of Potato Liquid, in Cleaning Silk, IVooI- 
len, and Cotton Furniture or Apparel, c^-c. ivithout Injury 'a 
the Texture or Colour. 

For the communication of (his valuable discovery to (he Society 
for he Enco(nageinent of Arts, IManufactures, and Commerce, in 
ihe Adelplii, February 4, 1805, iMrs. IMorris obtained a premium of 
fifteen guineas from that truly honourable inslitutic s ; in whose 



HECEIPT-BOOK. 



49 



''causae. .ons of that year it is thus rejjuhirly described : Taivo raw 
potatoes, in the stcite they aru taken cm ot" the earth. Wash them 
well : then nib thotii on a grater, over a vessel of clean water, to j 
fine pulp ; [)ass the liquid matter, through a coarse sieve, into anothei 
lub of clear water ; let the mixtirre stand, till the Ihie white par 
tides of the potatoes are precipitated ; then pour the mucilaginous 
liquor from the fecula, and preserve this liquor for use. The article 
to be cleaned should be laid, on a linen cloth, on a table : and, having 
provided a clean sponge, dip the sponge in the potato liquor, and 
apply the spong(! thus wet on the article to be cleaned ; and rub it 
well on with repeated portions of the potato liquor, till the dirt is 
perfectly separated. Then wash the article in clean water several 
times, to remove the loose dirt. It may, afterward, be smoothed o 
dried. Two middle sized potatoes will be sufficient for a pint of 
water. The white fecula, which separates in making the mucilagi- 
nous liquor, will answer the pmpose of tapioca : it will make a use- 
ful and nourishing food with soup or milk, or serve to make starch 
and hair powder. The coarse pulp, which does not pass the sieve, 
is of great use in cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, or 
other coarse goods. The mucilaginous liquor of the potatoes will 
clean all sorts of silk, cotton, or woollen goods, without damaging 
the texture of the article or spoiling the colour. It is also useful in 
cleaning oil paintings, or furniture that is soiled. Dirty painted 
wainscots may be cleaned by wetting a sponge in the liquor, then 
dipping it in a liltle fine clean sand, and afterward rubbing the wains- 
cot therewith. Various experiments were made by Mrs. Morris, in 
the presence of a committee, at the society's house ; and the whole 
process, on fine and coarse goods of different fabrics, was perform- 
ed to their entire satisfaction. This simple but very valuable dis- 
covery may certainly be applied to many other useful purposes, as 
well as those which are here particularly enumerated. 

JVeio method of Clearing Feathers from their Animal Oil. 

Thk process f)r etTecting this usefid purpose, is thus described in 
(he Transactions of the Adelphi Society, who rewarded Mrs. Rich- 
ardson with a premium of twenty guineas for making the discovery : 
Take for (ivcry gallon of clear water, a pound of quick lime. Mix 
Ihem well together; and, when the undissolved lime is precipitated 
in i\ne powder, pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it is 
wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned in another tub, and add to 
thcui a sufiicient quantity of the clear lime-water to cover the fea- 
thers about three inches when well immersed and stirred therein. The 
feathers, when thoroughly moistened, will sink down ; and should re- 
main in the lime-water three or lour days : after which, the foul liquor 
should be separated from the feathers, by laying them on a sieve. The 
feathers should be afterward well washed in clean water, and dried 
on nets, the meshes being about the same firmness as those of cab- 
bage nets. The feathers must, from time to time, be shaken on the 
nets ; and, as they dry, they will fall through the meshes, and are to 
be collected for use. The admission of air will be serviceable in tha 



50 Tn:; nkw f'AMjLf 

drying, and the wliolo process iii.iy ho completed in about three v»eek8« 
'I'lie leathers, after being thus prepared, \\ill want nothing more than 
()e:iling fur use, either as beds, bolsters, pillows, or cushions. So 
eUcctual is this method, and so preferable to the old and common 
way of stoving or baking, that :rn eniinenl dealer having sent to the 
society some bags of foreign feathers, which retained their unplea- 
sant smell after having been stoved the usual period of three days, 
]Mrs. Richardson rendered ihcm perfectly sweet and clean. This is 
a very im[)ortant discovery ; more particularly as the feathers, by not 
being hardened with heat, certainly require less beating. 

Mr. Scbristia7i Grnndi's Restoration or Discovery of the old 
J^enetinn Art of preparing G ronncU for Painting on Pavc^ 
nels, Copper^ or Canvas, &/•: 

This ingenious gentleman, having huig had the honour of being 
employed by the most eminent professors of the line arts in Italy 
and England, and assisted and im[)roved the processes of preparing 
canvases and the pannels, seem.s to have discovered, as far as ex- 
perience can prove, the manner of preparing either canvas, copper, 
or pannel, in the old VenetiuTi stile ; an art which has been long lost, 
and to which it is well known that Titian, Paul Veronese, Bassani, 
and other Venetian masters, owed much of the peculiar harmony, 
brightness, and durability, of their beautiful productions. Mr. Grand* 
naving communicated, for the public benefit, his entire process oi 
feus preparing pannels, canvas, cVc. for artists ; and also made 
other valuable communications with regard to the preparation of oils, 
colours, crayons, &c. for painting and drawing ; was rewarded by 
the Honourable Society in the Adelphi for the encouragement of 
Arts, &c. with tUeir elegant and honourary silver n;edal, as well as 
a pecuniary premium of twenty guhieas. These, tlierefore, in per- 
fect concert with the design of that liberal and truly patriotic institu- 
tion, we shall contribute all in our power to make more generally 
known. Mr. Grandi's method of preparing panricls and canvases 
for painters is thus described : Break, grossly, the bones of sheep's 
trotters, and boil them in water till they are cleared from their grease , 
then putting them into a crucible, calcine tlicjii, and afterward grind 
them to p(»wder. Dry some wheaten flour in a pan, over a slow fire ; 
then make it into a thin paste, adding an equal qu;aility of the pul 
verized hone ashes, and grind the whole mass well together. This 
mixtine forms the ground for the pannel. When the pannel has been 
well pumiced, some of the mixture or ground is io be well rubbed 
on a |iumice stone, that it may be incorporated with the pannel : 
another coat of the composition is next applied, with a brush on the 
paiuiel, where it is suliered to dry, the surface being afterward rubbed 
"over with sand paper. A thin coat of the composition is then ap- 
plied with a brush ; and, if a coloured eround be rcqiiired, a coat or 
two more must be added, so as to complete the absorbent grotmd. 
When a pannel thus prepared is wanted to be painted on, it must be 
rubbed over with a coat oi" raw lint^eed or poppy oil, as drying oil 
would destroy the absorbent quality of the ground ; and the pamtcr'a 



RECKIPT-HeOK 51 

colours shoulJ aisc bo mixed up with the purified oil for r\uinting 
lirreaittr inentioaed. Canvas grounds are prepared by giving them 
a turn coat of the composition, and afterward drying and pumicing 
them ; then giving thcni a second coat, and, lastly, a coat of colour- 
ii!g matter along with the composition. The grounds thus prepared 
do not crack : they may b3 painted in a very short time after being 
laid ; and, from their absorbent quality, allow the business to be pro 
ceeded in with greater facility and better effect than with those pre- 
pared in the usual mode. These valuable qualities have been suf- 
riciently ascertained, and are liberally avowed, by Sir William Beechy 
and other Royal Academicians, whose names are added to Mr. 
Grandi's last communication. 

Method of Purifying the Oil for mixing up Colours. 

Make some of the bone-ashes into paste with a little water, so as 
to form a mass or ball. Put this ball into the fire, and make it red 
hot ; then immerse it, for an hour, in a quantity of raw linseed oil 
sufficient to cover it. When cold, pour the oil into bottles ; add to 
it a little of the bone ashes ; let it stand to settle ; and, in a single 
day, it will be clear, and fit for use. 

Preparation of White, Brown, Yellow, Red, Gray, and Blue 
Black Colours, xchich never Change, and may be used either 
in Oil or Water. 

White is made by calcining the bones of sheep's trotters in a 
clear open fire, till they become a perfect white, which will never 
change. Brown is made from bones in a similar manner, only cal- 
cining from them in a crucible instead of an open fire. Yellow, or 
masticot, by burning a piece of soft brick of a yellowish colour in the 
fire ; grinding a quarter of a pound of flake white with every pound 
of brick: calcining them, as well as grinding them, together ; and, 
afterward, washing the mixture to separate the sand, and letting the 
finer part gradually dry for use. Red, equal in beauty to Indian red, 
by calcining some of the pyrites usually found in coal pits. Gray, 
by calcining together blue slate and bone ashes powdered, grinding 
them together, washing the texture, and gradually drying it. Blue 
Black, by burning vine stalks within a close crucible and in a slow 
fire, till they become a perfect charcoal, which must be well ground 
for use. 

Superior Crayons, of Permanent Colours^ to he applied either 
in Water or Oil. 

These crayons, produced also by Mr. Grandi, are of a quality 
superior to any heretofore in use ; they are fixed, so as to prevent 
their rubbing off the paper when used, and may be applied in water or 
oil. This process of preparing the crayons is thus described : — They 
are made of bone-ash powder mixed with spermaceti, adding the co- 
louring matters. The proper proportion is, three ounces of sperma- 
ceti to a pound of the powder; the .spermaceti to be first dissolved 
in a pint of boiling water ; then thr white bone-a=hes added : a.^d tho 



52 THE NKW KAMII.Y 

nholc to be well ground together, with as much of the respocfiv* 
colo(jring mull or tiS may be necessary for the shade of colour want- 
ed. They arc then to be rolled up in the proper form, and graduai- 
ly dried on a board. 

Prepnraiion of J V kite and Coloured Chalks. 

Ik wiiite chalk be reqiiired to worl '^oft, add a quarter of a pound 
of whiting to a pound of the bone-ash ponder; otherwise, the 
Ijonc-ashes will answer alone. Coloured chalks are prepared bj 
grinding the respective colouring matters with bone-ashes. These 
several communications, relative to the preparation of grounds, oif, 
colours, crayons, and chalks, for painters, were most respectably 
certified to the Society in the Adelphi, by Sir William Beechy, and 
the following other Royal Academicians, &c. Benjamin West, John 
Opie, Martin Archer Shee, James Northcote, 'Ihomas Lawrence, 
Joseph Farrington, Richard Cosway, P. J. De Loulherbourg, Rich- 
ard M. Paye, and Isaac Pocock, Esquires ; who all confirm the 
good qualities of the pannels prepared by Mr. Grandi, and generally 
recommend his colours as useful and permanent. The materials 
are certainly extremely cheap, as well as easy to be procured, and 
none of the processes for preparation are at all difiicult. 

SyrujJ of Damask Rosea. 

The Edinburgh Dispensatory describes syrup of damask roses as 
an agreeable and mild purgative for children, in doses of from half 
to a whole table spoonful. It likewise mentions, that this syrup 
proves gently laxative to adults ; and, with that intention, may be of 
service to costive habits. The method of preparing it, according to 
the London practice, is as follows : — Take seven ounces of the dried 
petals of the damask rose, six pounds of double-refined sugar, and 
four |)ints of boiling distilled water. Macerate the roses in the wa- 
ter for twelve hours, and then strain. Evaporate the strained liquor 
to two pints and a half; and add the sugar, that it may be made a 
syrup. In the Edinburgh practice, it is prepared thus: — Take one 
pound of the fresh petals oi" the damask rose, four pounds of boiling 
water, and three pounds of double-refined sugar. Macerate the 
roses in the water lor twelve hours ; then, to the strained infusion, 
add the sugar, and boil them to a syrup in the usual manner, as di 
reeled for syrup of clove gillyflowers, &c. 

Sijnij) rf Red Roses. 

This, in the Edinburgh Dispensatory, is properly distinguished 
from the syrup of damask roses ; being considered as mildly astrin- 
gent, instead of gently laxative. It seems, however, principally 
valued on account of its beautiful red colour. The manner of pre- 
paring it is almost the same as the Ijondon method of making the 
syrup of damask roses, called simply syrup of roses : — Take peven 
ounces of the dried petals of red roses, six pounds of double-refined 
sugar, and five [)oun(ls (jf boili.ig vi'ater. Macerate the rosea in the 
vater for twelve hours ; then boil a littlf, and strain the liquor : a<ld 



RLCEIPT-BOOK.. 53 

^ it the sugar, and boil again for a little, so as to form a syrup. 
There is, it must be confessed, a marked distinction between the 
London and Edinburgh methods of preparing syrup of roses, luixh 
in favour of the latter's superior discrimination : particularly, as tiie 
damask rose, besides dill'ering essentially in its medicinal effect, has 
its odour almost destroyed by drying ; while the red rose leaves oi 
petals, on the contrary, are well known to gain increased fragrance 
when carefully dried. 

Excellent Sj)ruce Beer. 

The salubrity of spruce beer is universally acknowledged ; and, 
notwithstanding its invincible terebinthine flavour, forms so refreshing 
and lively a summer drink, that it begins to be greatly used. It is, 
in fact, a powerful antiscorbutic : and, as it by no means offends 
the weakest stomach, whatever may be its effect on the palate, it is 
highly entitled to our attention. In situations where the green shoots 
and tops, &c. are easily obtained, it may be brewed immediately 
from them, instead of from the extract ; which, however, is by no 
means to be commonly effected in England, where these trees are 
not remarkably numerous, and are always private property. The 
regular method of brewing spruce beer, as it is at present in the 
best manner prepared, and so highly admired for its excessive brisk- 
i>ess, is as follows : — Pour eight gallons of cold water into a barrel : 
and then, boiling eight gallons more, put that in also ; to this, add 
twelve pounds of molasses, with about half a pound of the essence 
of spruce ; and, on its getting a little cooler, half a pint of good ale 
yeast. The whole being well stirred, or rolled in the barrel,, must 
be left with the bung out for two or three days ; after which, the 
liquor may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and packed in 
saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe and fit for drir.k in a fortnight 
If spruce beer be made immediately from the branvhes or cones, 
they are required to be boiled for two hours ; after which, the liquor 
is to be strained into a barrel, the molasses and yeast are to be added 
to the extract, and to be in all respects treated after the same man- 
ner. Spruce beer is best bottled in stone ; and, from its volatile 
nature, the whole should be immediately drank when the bottle is 
once opened. 

Blackmaii's celebrated Oil Colour Cakes for Jlrtists. 

Thk following is the process, as described in the transactions 
of the Society of Arts : — Take four oimces of the clearest gum mas- 
tich, and a pint of spirits of turpentine ; mix them together in a bottle, 
stirring them frequently till the mastich ue dissolved. Where 
haste is required, some heat may be applied, but the solution is bet- 
ter when made cold. Let the colours be the best which can be 
procured ; taking care that, by washing, Sec. they are brought to the 
rrreatest possible degree of fineness. When the colours are dry, ♦ 
grind them on a hard close stone, for which p>npose porphyry is 
best, in spirits of turpentine, adding a small quantity of tiie mastich 
varnish. Let the colours so ground become again dry ; then pre- 



54 Tt, E NEW f iMlLT 

pare, in the following manner, the composition for forming them into 
cakes : procure some of tlie purest and whitest spermaceti ; melt it, 
in a clean earthen ve.ssel, over a gentle fiie ; and, when fluid, add- 
ing one third its weight of pure poppy oil, stir the whole well to- 
gether. These things being in readiness, place over a frame or 
support the stone on which the colours were ground, with a charcoal 
fne to warm it beneath. This done, grind the colour fine with a 
muiier, on the warm stone ; after which, adding a sufficient quantity 
of the mixture of poppy oil and spermaceti, work the whole to- 
gether with a muller to the proper consistence. Lastly, taking a 
piece of the fit size for the cake intended to be made, roll it into a 
ball, put it into a mould and press it, when the process wilj be com- 
plete. These cakes, on being wanted for use, must be rubbed down 
in poppy or other oil, or in a mixture of spirits of turpentine and oil, 
as rnay best suit the convenience or intention of the artist. 

A curious and useful Glue. 

Take an ounce of isinglass, beat it to shreds, and put it into « 
pint of brandy ; when gradually dissolved, which it soon is with a 
gentle heat, strain the solution through a piece of fine muslin, and 
the glue will be obtained, which is to be kept in a glass closely stop 
ped. On being dissolved, in a moderate heat, it is thin, transparent, 
and almost limpid. When used in the manner of common glue, il 
joins together the parts of wood stronger than the wood itself is 
united : so that the pieces thus joined will break in any other part 
sooner than where they are glued together. It is also remarkable, 
that, if saw-dust, or powdered wood, be made into a ball with this 
glue, the ball will prove solid and elastic ; so that it may be turned 
and used as a bowl, without breaking. As the glue thus made with 
brandy will keep long without corrupting, it is by no means an im- 
proper form to preserve isinglass ready dissolved, for fining wines 
and other purposes. Another use of this curious glue is, that of its 
serving excellently for taking ofi' impressions of medals or coins : 
thus, if a little of it, when melted, be poured thinly on a new guinea, 
&c. so as to cover the whole surface of the piece, and suffered so to 
remain a day or two, till it become thoroughly dry, it will appear hard 
and transparent, like a piece of Muscovy glass, with the impression 
of the guinea in intaglio, as it is denominated, on one side, and in 
relievo on the other. This glue dries into a very strong, tough, and 
transparent substance ; not easily damaged by any thing but equeous 
moisture, which would soon dissolve it. This last reason renders it 
unfit for any use where it would be much exposed to wet or damp 
air. Common gLi., dissolved with linseed oil, is admirably calcu- 
lated to stand the weather ; a secret little known by those who would 
be most benefited by its adoption. 

Korfolk Milk Punch. 

Steep the thin parings of seven lemons, and as many Seville 
oranges, in a pint of brandy, for three days. Then squeeze all tho 
juice of these oranges and lemons into the brandy ; and add three 



RECEIPT-BOOK. OO 

pints of rum, three pints more of brand), and srx pints of water. 
Grate a iiu'uneg into two quarts of milk ; ;ind, having made it boil- 
ing hot, pour it into t!ie above ingredients, cari.fully keeping tha 
whole well stirred till completely mixed ; then add two pounds of 
fine loaf sugar, which must also be well stirred. Let the punch thu3 
made stand twelve hours, then strain it ihrough a flannel bag till it 
appear perfectly bright. It may, probably, require to be thr^e or 
four times strained, according to tie fineness or coarseness ci the 
sugar, and other circumstances. When qiiite clear, thischaiming 
liquor is immediately fit to drink ; or will keep, if bottled, any length 
of time, and in all climates. 

j^rt of making the Curious Sympathetic Ink. 

This curious ink has been long known in the world ; but the man- 
ner of preparing it, and means of procuring the materials, as describ- 
ed in various chemical books, rendered the task too discouraging to 
be often attempted. By the following easy method, however, it is 
readily accomplishable : — Take an ounce and a half of zaffre, which 
may be obtained at any colour-shop, and put it into a glass vessel 
with a narrow and long neck, pouring over it an ounce measur.e of 
strong nitrous acid, diluted with five times the quantity of water. 
Keep it in a warm situation, but not too hot, for about ten or twelve 
hours, and then decant the clearest part of t!ie liquor. Having so 
done, pour nearly as much more diluted nitrous acid on the remam- 
der : which id to continue in the same situation, and for as long a time 
as before, and then be decanted and mixed with what was obtained 
by the first operation. This being done, dissolve m it two ounces of 
common salt, and the sympathetic ink is completely made. The 
property of this ink is, that the writing made witli it, on common pa- 
per, is legible only while the paper is hot and dry ; so tliat, by ex- 
posing 't, alternately, to the ambient air, and to the heat of a fire or 
burning sun, whatever is written may be caused to appear and dis- 
appear at pleasure. The universal knowledge of this secret rather 
diminishes than increases the security of guilt in using it for any im- 
proper purpose; since detection is certain, from the moment suspicion 
takes place, by simply holding every letter or other doubtful paper to 
ilie fire, or in the \rarm rays of the sun. * 

Soft Sealing Wav,for TmjJressing Seals of Ojfice, ^c. 

This sealing wax, \yliich is seldom used for any other purpcse 
than that of receiving the impressions of sea's of office to charters, 
patents, proceedings in chancery, &c. is prepared, when to he iised 
white, c rather uncolnured, by mixing half a pound of bees' wax, an 
O'ince and a half of turpentine, and half an ounce of sweet oil ; and 
carefully boiling them together, tnl the compound becomes of a fit 
consistency for moulding into rolls, cakes, or balls, for use. If colour 
be wanted, it is readily obtained by stirring into the melted mass 
about half an ounce of a proper pigment, as in making the red ol 
other coloured hard sealing wax. 



6G THE NEW FAMILV 

Capital Sugar Vir.igar. 

This useful article of domestic economy might casjy be made in 
the poorest famihcs : — To every quart of spring water put a quarter 
of a pound of the coarsest sugar ; boil them together, and keep skim- 
ming tlio liquor as long as any scum rises. After pouring it into a 
tub or other vessel, let it stand till cool enough to work ; and tiien 
|)lace in it a toast spread with yeast, of a size proportioned to the 
quantity made. Let it ferment a day or two ; then beat the yeast 
into it, put it into acag or barrel with a piece of tile or slate over the 
bung-hole, and place it in a situation where it may best receive the 
heat of the sun. Make it in March, or the beginning of April, and 
it will be fit for use in July or August. If not sour enough, which 
can soldotn happen when properly managed, let it stand a month 
longer before it be bottled off. It may be kept in stone or glass bot- 
tles. During the time of makiufj, it must never be disturbed, after 
the first week or ten days ; and though, in very fine weather, the 
bung-hole would be best left open all day, as it might be fatal to 
leave it open a single night, or exposed to any sudden rain, the great- 
est caution will in that case be necessary. Previously to its being 
bottled, it may be drawn off into a fresh cask ; and, if it fill a large 
barrel, a handful of shred isinglass may be thrown in, or less in pro- 
portion to the quantity : this, after it has stood a ^ew days, will ren- 
der the vinegar fine, when it may be drawn off, or bottled, for use. 
This sugar vinegar, though very strong, may be used in pickling fur 
sea-store or exportation, without being at all lowered ; but for pick- 
les to be eaten in Ilngland it will bear mixing with at least an equal 
quantity of cold spring water. There are few pickles for which this 
vinegai need ever be boiled. Without boihng, it vvill keep walnuts very 
finely, even for the East or West Indies ; but then, as remarked in 
general of pickles for foreign use, it must be unmixed with water. If 
much vinegar be made, so as to require expensive casks, the out- 
sides should alM'iys be painted, for the sake of preserving them from 
the influence of 'he weather, during so many months of exposure to 
sun and rain. 

Excellent Embrocation for the Hooping- Cough. 

All the dreadful consequences of the chin or hooping cough, 
and its commonly tedious duration, may be obviated and shortened 
by the following admirable remedy : — Mix well together half an 
>unce each of spirit of hartshorn and oil of am.ber ; with which plen- 
tifully anoint the palms of the hands, the pit of the stomach, the soles 
of the feet, the arm-pits, and the back bone, every morning and even- 
ing for a month, suffering no water to come near the parts thus an- 
ointed, though the fingers and backs of the hands may be wiped with 
a damp cloth. It should be rubbed in near the fire, and care naturally 
used to prevent afterwards taking cold. It is best to make only the 
above quantity at a time ; because, by frequently opening the bottle, 
much of the virtue will be lost. It should, by rights, be kept in a 
glass-stopper bottle. Indeed, the hartshorn is always thus kept bv 



RECEIPT-BOOK. 57 

the faculty ; and where it forms so large a part of the mixtjire, the 
necessity of preventing its elUuvia from escaping is equally great. 
Tliese precautions taken, and tiie other directions followed, its use 
will seldom fail to be attended with the most complete success: 
frequently in a n:uch shorter time than it is judged prudent to ad- 
vise its being continued, as it can never possibly do the smallest 
injury even to the tenderest infants. 

Speedy Cure for a Sp^c.in. 

Take a large spoonful of lioney, the same quantity of salt, and 
the white of an egg : beat the whole up together incessantly for 
two hours; then let it stand an hour, and anoint the place sprained 
with the oil which will be produced, keeping the part well rolled 
with a good bandage. This is said generally to have enabled per- 
sons with sprained ankles, frequently more tediously cured than 
even a broken limb, and often leaving a pcpetual weakness in the 
joint, to walk in twenty-four hours, entirely free from pain. 

Singular and simple manner of preserving Apples from (he 
effects of frost in JYorth America. 

Apples being produced almost abundantly in North America, 
and forming an article of chief necessity in almost every family, the 
greatest care is constantly taken to protect them from frost at 
the earliest commencement of the winter season ; it being well 
known, that apples, if left unprotected, are inevitably destroyed by 
the first frost which occurs. This desirable object, during their 
long and severe winters, is said to be completely effected, by only 
throwing over them a thin linen cloth before the approach of frost, 
when tlie fruit is never injured, how severe soever the winter may 
happen to prove. Yet apples are there usually kept in a small 
apartment, immediately beneath the roof of the house, which is par- 
ticularly appropriated to that purpose, and where there is never any 
fire. This is a fact so well known, that the Americans are astonish- 
ed it should appear at all wonderful : and ihey have some reason to 
be so, when it is considered that, throughout Germany, the same 
method of preserving fruit is universally practised ; from whence 
probably it made its way to North America. It appears that linen 
cloth only is used for this purpose ; woollen cloth, in particular, 
liaving been experienced to prove ineffectual. There seems abun- 
dant reason to believe, ifiat even potatoes miglit be protected from 
frost by some such simple expedient. This, also, like the preced- 
ing article, to which the principle seems so very analogous, merits 
high consideration; and for the same iniportant reason, its capa- 
bility of conducing to the universal benefit of mankind, and the nu- 
merous animals under our protection. 

Cure for Chilblains. 

Ir, before any inflammation take place, the feet or hands aflfected 
are well washed morning and evening with hot water, or even with 
ctvld water on going 'o bed. i' will gentnllv stop thei prrgress f 



68 



THE NEW FAMILY HCCEtfi-liOUK. 



especially if warm socks or gloves l)e constantly worn ; but, wlieo 
they are acluaily iiiflaniecl, di|) a I'oiir times loliled rag into a mix* 
ture composed of lour ounces ul' spiriis of wine and camphor, and 
one ounce of V^enice treacle ; which must he lied every night on tlip 
chilblains till they quite disappear. With these precautions, they 
will seldom or never be Ibund to ulceraie; or, as it is connnonly 
called, to break : when this hapj)ens, dissolve an ounce of common 
turpentine in the yolk of an egg, and mix it up into a balsam, with 
halt an ounce of lamp black, or even soot, and a drachm of oil or 
spirits of turpentine. Spread this balsam on a plegit of lint large 
enough entirely to cover the ulcer, lie it on with warm cloths over 
the part aflccied ; and renew the dressings every morning and 
evening, which will speedily effect a cure. Soft leather socks, if 
worn before the first approach of winter, in October at farthest, aod 
never suffered to get wet or hard, will generally preserve from chil- 
blains even those who are most subject to be troubled with them. 

Delicate Cream Cheese- 

Take to every quart of new milk a gill of cream, make the mix- 
ture slightly warm, and put into it as little rennet as may be neces- 
sary just to turn it. The curd being come, to use the language 
of the dairy, lay a cloth on the vat or mould, which may be the bot- 
tom of a sieve, but should be the exact size of the intended cheese ; 
then, cutting out the curd with a skimming dish, fill up the mould, 
turn the cloth over it, and leave it to drain. As the curd drains 
and settles, keep filling in n)ore with a gentle pressure, till all the 
whey is out, and there is sufiicient substance for the cheese. It 
must be then turned into a dry cloth, and pressed with a moderate 
weight, not exceeding two pounds. At night, it is to be turned into 
a clean cloth; and, the next morning, very slightly sprinkled with 
fine salt : after which, if sufficiently dry, it may be laid on a bed of 
fresh nettle, strawberry, or ash leaves ; covered over with more i 
and, being shifted and turned twice a day, having the leaves occa- 
sionally renewed, will, in less than a fortnight, be sufficiently ripen- 
ed for eating. If expedition be desirable, the maturity of the cheese 
may be considerably hastened by keepiug it in a warm place, be- 
tween two pewter dishes, and giving it a fresh bed and covering of 
leaves every day. 



Il^^BEX TO 

THE NEW FAMILY RECEIPT-BOOK. 



Page 
German method of Clarify- 
ing and Preserving Fresh 
Butter 3 

Queen Elizabeth's Cordial 

Electuary ib. 

Genuine Friar'a Balsam 4 



Page 

liOzenges for the Heart-burn 4 
Decoction for the Stone and 

Gravel 5 
Instant relief for apain of the 

Bowels il>. 

The true Daffy's Elixir iK 



INDEX. 



59 



Infallible remedy for the Ague 

Bayley's Patent Cakes for 
Liquid Blacking 

Incomparable Fumigation, or 
Vapour for a Sore Throat 

To make Fine Red Ink 

Method of Polishing Rusty 
Steel 

A fine Balsamic Elixir for 
Coughs and Consumptions 

Admiral Gascoigne's Tinc- 
ture of Rheubarb 

German Cure for a Consump- 
tion 

Easy and effectual Cure for 
Wens 

Genuine Lozenges for the 
Piles 

Easy method of cleaning Pa- 
per Hangings 

Sir John Hill's Specific for 
the Scurvy 

Russian method to preserve 
Green Peas for Winter 

Admirable wash for the Hair 

Fine Raspberry Vinegar 

Genuine Turlington's Balsam 

Cephalic Snuff 

An excellent and cheap Com- 
position for Weather Board- 
ing, &c. 

Incomparable Liquid for chang- 
ing the Colour of the Hair 

Dutch method of extracting 
beautiful Colours from 
Flowers 

Excellent remedy for the 
Dropsy 

Another powerful remedy for 
the Dropsy 

Of the fining of Malt Liquors 

To make Elderberry Beer 

An easy method of Drying 
Currants in Bunches 

Dr. Stoughton's celebrated 
Stomachic Elixir 

Cure for a Pimpled Face 

Curious method of separating 
Gold O' Silver ^rom I/ace 



Page! 



Pa2o 



ib. 



5j Permanent Red ,. k for mark- 
l ing Linen 

6 Portable Balls for taking out 

Spots from Clothes 
ib. Art of preparing a newly-dis- 

7 covered Permanent Green 
Pigment both for Oil and 

ib. Water Colours 

Stewed Oysters in French 
ib. Rolls 

Dr. Anderson's admirable 
ib. improvement of Salting 
Butter 

8 Method of Fattening Chick- 

ens 
ib. Lord Orford's curious me- 
thod of feeding Carp in 
ib. Ponds 

Dr. Fuller's Chemical Snuff 
for the Head Ache, Palsy, 
and Drowsy Distempers 
Speedy remedy for a Bruis- 
ed Eye 
Stomach Plaster for a Cough 
Oil of Brown Paper for Burns 
Liquid for removing Spots of 
Grease, Pitch, or Oil from 
Cloth 
To take out Ink Spots from 
Woollen, Linen, and Silk 
Ink Stains taken out of Ma- 
I hogany Furniture 
12lRed Mixture for giving a fine 
Colour to Mahogany Fur- 
I niture 
ib.lMr. Jayne's Patent method 

I of preserving Eggs 
13] Chinese mode of rendering 
I Clotli, and even Muslin, 

Waterproof 
Beautiful newly-discovered 

Golden Yellow Dye 
Curious method of Breeding 

Gold and Silver Fish 
Syrup of Red Cabbage, as 

prepared in France 
Boluses for the Rheumatism 
and Contractions of the 
15 Joints 



15 



ib. 



ib. 



16 



ib. 



17 



ib. 



ib. 

ib. 
18 
ib. 



ib. 



ib. 
19 



ib. 



ib. 



ib. 
20 



21 



22 



60 



INDEX. 



Pill for an Aching Hollow 
Tooth 

Tea for the Gout 

Infallible Powder for Short- 
ness of Breath 

Excellent Wash for Numbed 
or Trembling Hands 

Mustard Whey for a Palsy 
and Nervous Disorders 

Ingenious French Liquid for 
making Bulbous Root^ 
flower beautifully in the 
Winter Season 

Art of Extracting the finest 
Carmine Powder from 
Clippings of Scarlet Cloth 

Substitute for Verdigris in 
producing a fine Black 
Dye without injury to 
Cloth 

Artificial Musk 

Wonderful, but easy and ef- 
fectual method of render- 
ing all sorts of Paper Fire- 
proof 

Bellamy's Patent methods of 
making Leather of all 
Sorts Waterproof 

Genuine Receipt for making 
the Invaluable Cordial Li- 
quor called Vespetro, re- 
commended by the king of 
France's Physicians 

Incomparable method of 
Salting Meat, as adopted 
by the late Empress of 
Russia 

Electuary for the Rheumatism 

Art of making the best Black 
Ink Powder 

Genuine Syrup for Coughs, 
Spitting of Blood, &c. 

Vast advantages of Bakin-g 
instead of Boiling Beet- 
Root 

Remedy for Wind in the Veins 

Best method of making Sage 
Cheese 

Syrup of Ginger 



ib. 



ib. 



ib. 



l^ 



ib. 



ib. 



24 

ib. 



ib. 



Page Pag* 

Wonderful Power of the 
Turkish Gfjue, ■nith the Art 
of making jt ib 

Valuable Seciet in preparing 
Foil for Diamonds 20 

Easy method of Dying Cot- 
ton with Madder ib. 

Admirable Water for Thick- 
enin": the Hair, and to pre- 
vent its falling off" 30 

Celebrated French Worm 
Medicine for Dogs ib. 

Use of the celebrated Ger- 
man Tinder, and its great 
Importance ib. 

To make a Powder, by which 
you may write with water 31 

Turkish method of Filtering 
Water by Ascension. ib. 

Patent Machine for Purifying 
the foulest water ib. 

Management of Coffee in 
France 32 

An invaluable Mixture, for 
effectually destroying Bugs ib. 

Grand Ptisan, or Diet Drink 
of Health and Longevity, 
by a celebrated French 
Physician 

Curious and simple manner of 
keeping Apricots, Peaches, 
Plums, &c. fresh all the 
Year 

Genuine Windsor Soap 

Art of Dying or Staining 
Leather Gloves, to resem- 
ble the beautiful York 
Tan, Limerick Dye, &c. 

Art of making Phosphoric 
Tapers or Matches 

jEasy method of making Phos- 
ib. ' phoric Bottles 

'Specifications of Lord Wil- 
liam Murray's Patent for 
ib. extracting Starch from 
2S Horse Chesnuts 

Patent Potato Composition 
ib. to be used instead of Yeast 
ib. P -itannic Elas'ic Gun» 



ib. 



26 

ib. 



33 



34 

ib. 



35 



ib. 



lb 



36 

ib. 
3* 



INDEX. 



61 



Paiie 



^'est India Bitters, or Anti- 
Bilious Drops 

Oxymel of Garlic for Asth- 
matic complaints, Rheu- 
matism, &U'. 

Method of making Grape 
Wines, fully equal to Cham- 
paign and old Hock 

Art of Extracting Spots of 
Grease, Tallow, Oil, &c. 
from Valuable Books, 
Prints, and Papers of all 
sorts, without injury to the 
Printinjj or Writing 

^{laikie's Patent Substitute 
for Gum, in thickening Co- 
lours for Calico Printers, 
&c. ' 

French method of making 
Garlic Vinegar 

t'lne Tarragon Vinegar 

Vinegar of Roses 

Excellent Blue Colour for 
Ceilings, &c. 

Composition for cleaning 
Marble Hearths, Chimney 
Pieces, Alabaster, <&rc. 

Turkish Rouge ; or admir- 
able Carmine 

Purified Syrup of Molasses 

Art of Preparing a fine Red 
Lake from Dutch Madder 

Clarified Goose Grease 

Composition for Restoring 
Scorched Linen 

Easy method to prevent Ba- 
con from becoming Rusty 

Best Saxon Blue 

Wonderful efficacy of Yeast 
in the cure of Putrid Dis- 
eases 

Admirable Cement, or Mor- 
tar 

Ancient British Liquor, call- 
ed Bragget 

Wonderful efiect of Po at*- 
L^uid, in cleaning Silk 



ib. 



]8 



39 



40 

ib. 
ib. 
41 

ib. 



ib. 

42 
43 

ib. 
ib. 

44 

ib. 
ib. 



45 



47 



48 



Page 

A\ oollen, and Cotton Fur- 
niture or Apparel, &c. 
without injury to the Tex- 
ture or Colour 48 

Method of clearing Feathers 
from their Animal Oil 49 

Sebastian Grandi's Restora- 
tion or Discovery of the 
old Venetian Art of prepar- 
ing Grounds for Painting 
on Pannels, Copper, or 
Canvas, &c. 50 

Method of Purifying the Oil 
for mixing up Colours 51 

Preparation of White, Brown, 
Yellow, Red, Gray, and 
Blue Black Colours, which 
never change, and may 
be used either in Oil or 
Water ib. 

Superior Crayons of peima- 
nent Colours, to be applied 
either in Water or Oil ib. 

Preparation of White and Co- 
loured Chalks 52 

Syrup of Damask Roses ib. 

Syrup of Red Roses ib. 

Excellent Spruce Beer 53 

Blackman's celebrated Oil 
Colour Cakes for Artists ib 

A curious and useful Glue 54 

Norfolk Milk Punch ib. 

Art of making the Curious 
Sympathetic Ink 55 

Soft Sealing W"ax, for Im- 
pressing Seals of Office, 
&c. ib. 

Capital Sugar Vinegar 56 

Excellent Embrocation for 
the Hooping-Cough ib. 

Speedy Cure for a Sprain 57 

Singular and s'mple manner 
of preserving Apples from 
the effects of frost in 
North America ib. 

Cure for Chilblains ib. 

iDelicate Cream Cheese 58 



INDEX 

TO 

ART OF COOKING, Etc. 



CHAPTER I. 

SOUPS and BROTHS, 

Page 
Sojp Vermicelli 
Do. white 
A-la-Reine 
Cressy 
Transparent 
Almond 

Sante, or G-avy 
and Bouille 
Ox Cheek 
Macaroni 
Calf's Head 
Peas 

White Peas 
Green Peas 
Onion 
Milk 

Milk, with Onions 
Rice 

Rice, or Potage du Ris 
Scotch Barley Broth 
Lorrmine 
Maigre 
Giblet 

Hodge Podge 
Cow Heel 



"VV'-ite 

Gravy 

Spring 

Hare 

Partridge 

Cray Fish 

Eel 

Oyster 

Mutton BrotTi 

Beef Broth 

Beef Drink 



12 

13 

ib. 

14 

ib. 

15 

ib. 

16 

ib. 

17 

ib 

18 

ib. 

ib. 

19 

ib. 

20 

ib. 

21 

ib. 

ib. 

22 

23 

ib. 

ib. 

24 

ib. 

25 

ib. 

ib. 

26 

ib. 

ib. 

27 

ib. 



Beef Broth to keep 28 

Veal Broth ib. 

Chicken Broth ib. 

Spring Broth 29 
Plum Porridge to keep • ib. 

Mock Turtle Soup ib. 

Portable Soup 30 

CHAPTER H. 

Section 1. 
BOILING MEAT. 
To dress a Calf's Head 33 
Grass Lamb ib. 
A Ham ib. 
Do. another way ib. 
Ham a-la-Braise 34 
Tongues ib. 
]N cat's Tongue ib. 
Leg of Mutton ib. 
Lamb's Head 35 
Do. another way ib. 
Leg of Lamb 36 
A Haunch, or Neck of Ve- 
nison ib. 
Pickled Pork ib. 
Pig's Pettitoes 37 

Section 2. 
BOILING POULTRY. 

Turkeys 37 

Chickens 38 

Fowls 39 

Rabbits and Ducks ib. 

Pigeons 40 

Geese i^" 

Partridges ib. 

Pheasants • 4- 

ib 



28' Snipes or Woodcocks 



INDEX. 



Section 3. 






Pago 


BOILING FISH. V 


age 


A Stubble rjoose 


60 


Turbct 


42 


Ducks 


ib. 


Uo. another way 
Turbot en Maigre 


ib. 
43 


Pigeons 
Larks 


*1 


Salmon 


ib. 


Rabbits 

Section 3. 


lb. 


Do. whole for a large iompan) 


rib. 




Cod's Head 


ib. 


ROASTING GAME 




Whole Cod 


44 


Pheasants and Partridges 


62 


Salt Cod 


45 


Woodcocks or Snipes 


63 


Cod Sounda 


ib. 


Hares 


ib. 


Soles 


ib. 


Venison 


64 


Trout 


46 


Section 4. 




Pike 


ib. 


ROASTING FISH. 




Carp 

Mullets 

Mackarel 

Mackarel a-la-Bourgeoise 


47 
ib. 
ib. 

48 


To roast Sturgeon 
Roasted en Gras 
Lobsters 


64 
ib. 
ib. 


Herrings 

Flounders, Plaice, Perch, and 


ib. 


CHAPTER IV. 




Dabs 


ib. 


Section 1. 




Eels 


49 


BAKING. 




Sturgeon 


ib. 


BUTCHER'S MEAT 




Turtle 


t 


Rump of Beef a-la-Braise 
Calf's Head 


65 


Court Bouillon 


51 


ib. 






Pigs 


66 


CHAPTER HI. 




A Bullock's or Calf's Heart 


ib 


Section 1. 




Section 2. 




ROASTING IN GENERAL. 


BAKING FISH. 




BUTCHER'S MEAT. 




Cod's Head 


67 


Beef 


53 


Salmon 


ib. 


Mutton and liamb 


ib. 


Carp 


68 


Haunch of Mutton dressed like 


Eels and Lampreys 


ib. 


Venison 


54 


Herrings 


69 


A Fore-quarter of Lamb 
Tongues and Udders 


ib. 


Turbot 


ib. 


ib. 


Pike, with forcemeat 


70 


Veal 


ib. 


Mackarel 


ib. 


Pork 


55 






Sucking Pigs 


66 


CHAPTER V. 




Calf's Head 


57 


BROILING. 




Ham, or Gammon of Bacon 


58 


Section 1. 




Section 2. 




Beef Steaks 


71 


ROASTING POULTRY 




Mutton Steaks 


72 


Turkeys 


58 


Pork Chops 


ib. 


Fowls 


59 


Ox Palates 


ib. 


Chickens 


ib. 


Chickens 


73 


^ een Geese 


60 


Pigeons- 


ib. 



INDEX 



Section 2. 


* 


CHAPTER VIL 




BROILING FISH. 




Section L 




Page 


STEJFING. 




resh Salmon 


74 






Jried Salmon 


ib. 


BUTCHER'S MEAT. 




Cod 


ib. 


Page 


Crimped do. 


75 


Fillet of Veal 


86 


Cod Sounds 


ib. 


Breast of Veal 


ib. 


Trout 


ib. 


Knuckle of Veal 


ib. 


MacUarel 


76 


Neck of Veal 


87 


a-la-Maitre d'llotel 


ib. 


Calf's Head 


ib. 


Haddocks and Whitings 


ib. 


Liver 


88 


Eels 


77 


Rump of Beef 


ib. 


pitch-cocked 


ib. 


Beef Steaks 


ib. 


Herrings 


ib. 


Goblets 


ib. 






Neat's Tongue 


89 






To dress Ox Palates 


ib. 


CHAPTER VL 




Ox Palates forced 


ib. 


O t 




To Marinade Ox Palates 


90 


Skction 1. 








FRYING. 




Section 2. 
STEJFING POULTRY. 




BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Venison 


78 


Turkey en Pain 
Fowls 


90 
ib. 


Veal Cutlets 


ib. 


Chickens 


91 


N eck or Loin of Lamb 


79 


Goose Giblets 


ib. 


Sweetbreads 


ib. 


Ducks 


ib. 


Calf's Brains 


ib. 


with Green Peas 


92 


Beefsteaks 


80 


Pigeons 


ib. 


Ox Tongues 


ib. 


Pheasants 


ib. 


Ox Feet, or Cow-Heel 


ib. 


Partridges 


93 


Tripe 


ib. 


Cucumbers 


ib. 


Sausages 


81 


Peas a,nd Lettuce 


94 


Chickens 


ib. 






Artichoke Bottoms 


ib. 


Section 3. 




Celery 


ib. 


STEIFING FISH. 




Potatoes 


82 


Carp and Tench 


94 


Section 2. 




Barbel 


95 






Small Barbel 


ib. 


FRYING FISR 




Trout 


ib. 


Turbot 


82 


Pike 


ib. 


Carp 


83 


A Fricandeau of Pike 


96 


Tench 


ib. 


Cod 


ib. 


Soles 


84 


Soles, Plaice, and Flounders 


ib. 


Smelts 


ib. 


Lampreys and Eels 


ib. 


Eels 


ib. 


Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray- 




Lamprev* 


85 


Fish 


97 


Mullets* 


ib. 


Oysters 


ib. 


Herring? 


ib. 


Scolloped 


9a 


Oysters 


ib. 


Muscles 





IT 



INDEX. 



CHAPTER VIII. I 

Section 1. I 

ILiSHING JND MINCING. 
BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Page 
Calf's Head 98 

Veal Minced 100 

Mutton Hashed ib. 

Section 2. 
HASHING POULTRY AND 

GAME. 
Turkeys 100 

another way 101 

Fowls ib. 

Chickens ib. 

Partridges or Woodcocks ib. 
Wild Ducks 102 

Hares ib. 

Hare Jugged ib. 

Venison 103 

CHAPTER IX. 

Section 1. 

FRICASSEEING. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT, POUL 
TRY, &c. 

Neat's Tongue 
Sweetbreads White 
Calf's Feet a-la-Carmagot 
Tripe 
Chickens 
Rabbits While 
Brown 



CHAPTER X. 




Section 1. 




RAGOOS. 




BUTCHER'S MEAT 




Breast of Veal 
Neck of Veal 
Sweetbreads Brown 
Calf's Feet 
Pig's Feet and Ears 


P«ge 

109 

110 

ib. 

Ill 

ib. 



Fore-quarter of House Lamb ib. 
Beef 112 

Mutton ib. 



103 

ib. 
104 

ib. 

ib. 
105 

ib. 



Section 2. 



FRICASSEEING FISH, ^c. 
Cod Sounds 105 
Soles 106 
Eels ib. 
Flounders 107 
Skate or Thoraback ib 
Oysters lOS 
Eggs ib 
Eggs with Onions and Mush- 
rooms ib. 
Mushrooms ib. 
Skirrits 109 
Artichoke Bottoms ib. 



Section 2. 




RAGOOS OF POULTRY, VE- 
GETABLES, 8fc. 


A Goose 


113 


Livers of Poultry 

Oysters 

Muscles 


ib. 

114 

ib. 


Mushrooms 


115 


Artichoke Bottoms 


ib. 


Asparagus 
Cucumbers 


ib. 
116 


another way 


ib. 


Cauliflowers 


ib. 


French Beans 


ib. 


Endive or Succory 


117 


Cabbage Force-Maigre 


118 



Asparagus forced in French 

Rolls lb. 

Peas Frangois ib. 



CHAPTER XL 

GRAVIES, CU LIASES, AND 
OTHER SAUCES. 

Gravies 119 

A very rich Gravy ib. 

Brown Gravy 120 

Sauce Italian ib. 

Piquante ib. 
A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos 

and rich Sauces 121 

A Family Cullis ib. 

A Wi^»*« do. 3) 



INDEX. 



A. CulVi3 for Fish 

Ham Sauce 

Essence of Ham 

Sauce for Lamb 

Sauce for any kind of Roast 

Meat 
A White Sauce 
Sauce for most kinds of Fish 

Nonpareil 
Sauce a-la-Menehou 
Egg Sauce 
Bread Sauce 
Anchovy Sauce 
Shrimp Sauce 
Oyster Sauce 
To melt Butter 
Caper Sauce 
Shalot Sauce 



Page! Pagt 

122 Sweetbreads of Veal a-la- 

ib.j Dauphine 134 

123JS\veetbreads en Gordincere ib. 

ib.] Sweetbreads a-!a-daub 135 

■Scotch Collops ib. 

ib. Beef Collops 136 

ib.lBeef a-la-daub ib. 

Beef Tremblent 137 

Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeois ib. 

Beef a-la-mode ib. 

Beefa-la-Royal 138 

Beef Olives.- ib. 

BouiUe Beef 139 

Sirloin of Beef en Epigram ib. 



124 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
125 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
126 

ib. 



Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls ib, 

Gooseberry Sauce 

Fennel Sauce 

Mint Sauce 

A relishing Sauce 

To crisp Parsley 

Sauce for Wild Ducks, Te J, 

&c. 
Pontiff Sauce 
Aspic Sauce 
Forcemeat Balls 
Lemon Pickle 



ib. 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 
ib. 

127 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 

128 



CHAPTER XII. 

MADE DISHES. 

Section 1. 

BUTCHER'S MEAT. 

Bombarded Veal 12S 

Fricandeau of Veal 129 

Veal Olives ib. 

Grenadines of Veal 3Q, 

Veal Cutlets en Papilotes ib. 

Porcupine of a Breast of Veal ib. 
Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bou 

geois 
Calf's Head Surprise 
Calf's Pluck 

Loin of Veal en Epigram 
Pillow of Veal 
Shoulder of Veal a-la-Picd 

montoise 



The inside of a Sirloin of Beef 

forced 140 

A Round of Beef forced ib. 

Beefsteaks rolled 141 

Beef Rump en Matelotte ib. 

BeefEscarlot 142 

Tongue and Udder forced ib. 

Tripe a-la-Kilkenny ib. 

Harrico of Mutton ib. 

Shoulder of Mutton surprised 143 
To dress Umbles of Deer ib. 
Mutton Kebobbed ib. 

Leg of Mutton a-la-haut Gout 144 
Leg of Mutton roasted with 

Oysters ib. 

Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram ib 
Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys ib. 
Mutton Rumps a-Ia Braise 145 
Mutton Chops in Disguise ib. 
A Shoulder of Mutton called 

Hen and Chickens 146 

A Quarter of Lamb forced ib. 

Lamb's Bits ib. 

Lamb a-la-Bechamel 147 

Lamb Chops en Casarole ib. 

Barbacued Pig ib. 

A Pig au Pere Duillet 14S 

A Pig Matelotte 148 

Sheep's Trotters en Gratten 149 



131 

.o.tI Section 2. 

uTl M.-WE DISHES OF POUL- 
133' TRY, ^r. 

I Turkey a-la-daub 149 

ib. i in a hurry 150 



INDEX. 



Page 

Fowls a-la-Braise 150 

forced 151 

mariiiadeJ ib. 

Chickens Chiringrate ib. 

a-la-Biaise 152 

in savoury Jelly 153 

and Tongues ib. j 

Pullets a-la-Sainte Menehout ib.j 

Ducks a-la-Braise 1541 

a-la-Mode ib.j 

a-la-Frangoise I55i 

A Goose a-la-Mode ib. 

marinaded "^56, 

Pigeons Compote ib. 

French Pupton of Pigeons 157 

Pigeons a- la-Braise ib. 

au Poise ib. 

Fricandeau of Pigeons 158 

Pigeons a-la-Daub ib. 

a-la-Soussel 159 

in a Hole ib. 

Jugged Pigeons ib. 

Partridges a-la-Braise 160 

Pheasants a-la-Braise ib. 

Snipes or Woodcocks, in Sur- 

tout 161 
Snipes, with Purslain Leaves ib. 



Broccoli 

Cauliflowers 

Green Peas 

Windsor Beans 

Kidney do. 

Spinach 

Cabbages 

Turnips 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

Potatoes 

Scolloped 
Hops 



Pago 
167 
168 

ib. 
169 

ib. 

ib. 

ib. 
170 

ib 

ib. 

ib. 
.71 

ib. 



Larks a-la-Frangoise 


162 


Florendine Hares 


ib. 


Rabbits 


163 


Jugged Hare 


ib. 


Rabbits Surprised 


ib. 


Rabbits en Casserole 


164 


Macaroni 


ib. 


Amulets 


ib. 


of Asparagus 


165 


Oyster Loaves 


ib. 


Mushroom Loaves 


ib. 


Eggs in Surtout 


ib. 


and Broccoli 


ib. 


Spinach and Eggs 


166 


To make Ramekins 


ib. 



CHAPTER XHL 
VEGETABLES AND ROOTS. 



Asparagus 
Artichokes 



167 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Section 1. 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 

Bread Pudding 171 

Batter do. 173 

Custard do. ib. 

Quaking do. ib. 

Sago do. 174 

Marrow do. ib. 

Biscuit do. ib. 

Almond do. ib. 

Tansy do. ib. 

another way 175 

Herb do. ib. 

Spinach do. ib. 

Cream do. 176 

Hunting do. ib. 

Steak do. ib. 

Calf's Foot do. 177 

Prune do. ib. 

Plum do. ib. 

Hasty do. ib. 

Oatmeal do. 178 

Suet do. ib. 

Veal Suet do. ib. 

Cabbage do. ib. 

A Spoonful do. 179 

White Puddings in Skins ib. 

Apple do. .'b. 

Apple Dumplings ib. 

Suet do. 180 

Raspberry do ib. 

Yeast do. ib. 



INDEX. 



Page 

Norfolk Dumplings 180 

Hard do. 181 

Potato Pudding ib. 

Black do. ib. 

Section 2. 

BAKED PUDDINGS. 

Vermicelli Pudding 182 

Sweetmeat do. ib. 

Orange do. ib. 

Lemon do. 183 

Almond do. ib. 

Rice do. 184 

Millet do. ib. 

Oat do. ib. 

Transparent do. 185 

French Barley do. ib. 

Lady Sunderland's do. A. 

Citron do. 186 

Chesnut do. ib. 

Quince do. ib. 

Cowslip do. 187 

Cheese-curd do. ib. 

Apple do. ib. 

New- Market do. ib. 

A Grateful do. 188 

Carrot do. ib. 

Yorkshire do. ib. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Section 1. 

PIES. 

MEAT PIES. 

Beefsteak Pie 190 

Mutton do. ib. 

A Mutton Pie a-la-Perigord 191 

Veal do. ib. 

A Rich Veal do. ib. 
Lamb or Veal do. in high taste ib. 

Venison Pasty 192 

Olive Pie ib. 

Calf's Head do. 193 

Feet do. ib. 

Swp«*Vead do. 194 

Chesnirp Pork do. ib. 

^evonsnire Squab do ib 



I Section 2. 

\PIES made of POULTRY ^c, 

I Page 

I A Plain Goose Pie 195 

! Duck do. ib. 

iPigeon do. 196 

I Chicken do. ib. 

another way ib. 

Partridge do. 197 

Hare do. ib. 

Rabbit do. ib. 

another way 198 

Fine P-itties ib. 
To make any sort of Timbale 199 

Section 3. 
FRUIT PIES. 

Apple Pie 199 

Tart 200 

Cherry Pie ib. 

Mince Pies 201 
Another Method of making 

Mince Pies ib. 

To make Mincemeat 202 

Orange and Lemon Tarts ib. 

Tart de Moi ib. 

Artichoke Pie ' 203 

Vermicelli do. ib. 

Section 4. 
FISH PIES. 

Eel Pie 203 

Turbot do. 204 

Sole do. ib. 

Flounder do. ib. 

Carp do. 205 

Tench do. ib. 

Trout do. ib. 

Salmon do. 206 

Herring do. ib. 

liObster do. ib. 



CHAPTER XVL 
PANCAKES and FRITTERS. 
Pancakes 207 

Cream Pancakes ib. 

Hire do. ib. 



INDEX. 



Page 

PinK-coloured Pancakes 208 

Clary do. ib. 

Plain Fritters ib. 

Apple Fritters 209 

Water Fritters ib. 

White Fritters ib. 

Hasty Fritters ib. 

Fritters Royal 210 

Tansy Fritters ib. 

Rice do. ib. 

Chicken do. 211 

Bilboquet do. ib. 

Orange do. ib. 

Strawberry do. 212 

Do. another way ib. 

Raspberry Fritters ib. 

Currant do. ib. 

German do. 213 

Almond Fraze ib. 



CHAPTER XVII. 




Skction 1. 




TARTS AND PUFFS 




Raspberry Tart 


214 


Green Almond Tart 


ib. 


Angelica Tarts 


215 


Rhubarb Tarts 


ib. 


Spinach Tarts 


ib. 


Petit Patties 


216 


Orange Tarts 


ib. 


Chocolate Tarts 


ib. 


Section 2. 




PUFFS, Sfc. 




Sugar Puffs 


217 


Lemon Puffs 


ib. 


Almond Puffs 


ib. 


Chocolate Puffs 


ib. 


Curd Puffs 


218 


Wafers 


ib. 



Fine Cheesecakes 


219 


Bread Cheesecakes 


220 


Rice Cheesecakes 


ib. 


Almond Cheesecakes 


ib. 


Do. another way 


lb. 


Lemon Cheesecakes 


22} 


Citron Cheesecakes 


ib. 


Section 2. 




CUSTARDS 




Plain Custards 


221 


Do. another way 


222 


Baked Custards 


ib. 


Rice Custards 


ib. 


Almond Custards 


ib. 


Lemon Custards 


ib 


Orange Custards 


223 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Section 1. 

CHEESECAKES AND CUS- 
TARDS. 
C?zeesecakes 218 

Common Cheesecakes 219 



CHAPTER XIX. 

CAKES, BISCUITS, ^c 

A Common Cake 224 

A rich Seed Cake ib. 

A Pound Cake plain ib. 

Cream Cakes *ib. 
Wedding or Christening Cake 225 

Rice Cakes ib. 

Gingerbread Cakes ib. 

Bath Cakes or Buns 226 

Shrewsbury Cakes ib. 

Portugal Cakes ib. 

Saffron Cakes ib. 

Prussian Cakes 227 

Queen Cakes ib. 

Almond Cakes ib. 

Little Plum Cakes 228 

Ratifia Cakes ib. 

Apricot Cakes ib. 

Orange Cakes 229 

Lemon Cakes ib. 

Currant Calies ib. 

Whigs 230 

Common Biscuits ib. 

Sponge Biscuits ib. 

Spanish Biscuits ib. 

Drop Biscuits 231 

Lemon Biscuits ib. 

Macar oca's iU- 



INDEX. 



ix 





Page 


! 


Pago 


tJ'.een Caps 


231 


Various Fruit, CusUrd Ices, 


Black Caps 


232 


&c. 


241 


Snow Balis 


ib. 


i Raspbsrry Jam 


242 






Strawberry do. 


ib. 






Apricot do. 


ib. 


CHAPTER XX. 




i Gooseberry do. 


ib. 






j Black Currant do. 


243 


Section 1. 




jlceings for Cakci? or various 


THE ART OF CONFEC- 


1 Articles in Confectionary 


ib. 


TIONARY. 




Do. a.iother way 


ib. 


The Method of preparing Su 


- 


Sfxtion 3. 




gars and Colours 
Smooth or Candy Suga 


233 






ib. 


JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. 


Bloom Sugar 


ib. 


Calf's Feet Jelly 


243 


Feathered do. 


ib. 


Hartshorn do. 


244 


Crackled do. 


ib. 


Orange do. 


245 


Carmel do. 


ib. 


Blanc Mange 


ib. 


Red Colour do. 


235 


Jaunmange 


246 


\i\iie do. 


ib. 


Black Currant Jelly 


ib. 


Yellow do. 


ib. 


Riband do. 


247 


Green do 


ib. 


Savoury do. 


ib. 


Devices in Sugar 


ib. 


Common Syllabubs 


248 


Sugar of Roses in various fi- 




Whipt do. 


ib. 


gures 


236 


Solid do. 


ib. 






Lemon do. 


Ik. 


Section 2. 




Everlasting do. 


249 


CREAMS AND JAM'i 




A Hedgehog 


ib. 






Flummery 


250 


Orange Cream 


236 


French do. 


ib. 


Lemon do. 


ib. 


Green Melon in Flummery 


251 


Hartshorn do. 


237 


Solomon's Temple in do. 


ib. 


Burnt do. 


ib, 






another way 


ib. 


Section 4. 




Blanched do. 


ib. 






Cream a-la-Fraiichipane 


238 


PRESERVING FRUIT, 


<5t. 


Whipt Cream 


ib. 


Apricots 


252 


Spanish do. 


ib. 


Peaches 


ib. 


Steeple do. 


ib. 


Quinces 


253 


Barley do. 


239 


Barberries 


ib. 


Pistachio do. 


ib. 


Pine Apples 


254 


Tea do. 


ib. 


Grapes 


ib. 


Coffee do. 


ib. 


Morello Cherries 


255 


Chocolate do. 


240 


Green Codlir.s 


ib. 


another way 


ib. 


Golden Pippms 


ib. 


Pompadour do. 


ib. 


Green-Gage Pluvw 


256 


Ratifia do. 


lb. 


Oranges 


ik. 


Raspberry dc. 


241 


Raspberries 


251 


[ce do. 


ib. 


Strawberries 


a 


No. 25. 


b 







INDEX. 



Page I 

Currants in Bunches 258 

Gooseberries 259| 

Do. in imitation of Hops ib. I 

Damsons 2601 

Walnuts 261 

Cucumbers 2621 

I 

Section 5. 1 

DRYING AND GANDYINCk 

Dried Apricots 263 

Peiches ib. 

Candied Angelica 264 

Green-Gage Plums dried ib. 

Dried Cherries ib. 

Damsons 265 

Candied Cassia ib. 
Lemon and Orange Peels 

Candied ib. 

Candied Ginger ib. 

Horehound 266 

Almond Cake, or 

Gateau Noga ib. 

Candied Rhubarb Cakes ib. 

Compote of Crude Orange 267 

of Apples ib. 

of Pears ib. 

of Quinces ib. 

Orange Chips ib. 

Marmalade 268 

Apricot do. ib. 

Quince do. ib. 

Transparent do. 269 

Burnt Almonds ib. 

Raspberry Paste ib. 

Currant do. 270 

Gooseberry do. ib. 

Skction 6. 



CHAPTER XXI 



PICKLING, 






Page 


Mangoes 


274 


Girkins 


275 


Cucumbers 


276 


in Slices 


ib. 


To keep Cucumbers 


277 


Walnuts 


ib. 


Red Cabbage 


2S0 


Onions 


ib. 


Kidney, or French Beans 


281 


Barberries 


ib. 


Beet Roots 


282 


Radish Pods 


ib. 


Cauliflowers 


ib. 


Artichokes 


283 


Nasturtiums 


ib. 


Mushrooms 


ib. 


Mushroom Catsup 


284 


Powder 


ib. 


Walnut Catsup 


ib. 


Indian Fickle 


285 


Asparagus 


ib. 


Parsley Pickled Green 


286 


Peaches 


ib. 


Golden Pippins 


287 


Grapes 


ib. 


Red Currants 


288 


Caveach or Pickled Macki 


ire] ib. 


Smelts 


289 


Oysters 


ib. 


Anchovies 


290 


Ox Palates 


ib. 



ORNAME^rs IN CONFEC 

riCNARY. 



CHAPTER XX^II. 

COLLARING 
VENISON. 



ARTIFICIAL FRUIT 

A Dish of Snow 
Moonshine 
Floating Islaiu! 
Desert Island 
Chinese Temple 



(Breast of Veal 
[Breast of Mutton 
Beef 
271 'Calf's Head 

ib.lPig 
272[Eels 
273iMackarei 
ib. Salmon 



292 
ib. 

293 

294 
ib. 

295 
ih 
ib 



INDEX. 



CHAPTER XXI 11. 

SKCTIi)N 1. 



'Orange Posset 
I White Caudle 
POTTING MEAT an<l POL'L-jBioun Caudle 

rlir->T- !■> . 



TRY. 
Venison 
Hares 

Marble Veal 
Tongues 
Geese and Fowls 
Beef 
Pigeons 
Woodcocks 



Salmon 
Ijobster 



Section 2. 
FISH. 



CHAPTER XXIY 

CURING nf various Kimh cj 
MEATS, c^c 
Hams 

Ho. various 
Bacon 

Mutton Hams 
Beef do. 
Neat's Tongue 
Hung Beef 
Hunting do. 
Pickled Pork 
Mock Brawn 
Turkey Soused 
To make fine Sausages 
Oxford Sausages 



I'i^SejWhite Wine Whey 
29 6, Water Gruel 
297 1 Barley Gruel 
ib. i-Orgeat Paste 

ib.! ° 

^^^\ CHAPTER XXVH. 

299 1 MADE WINES, ^c 

ib.! Raisin Wine 

An excellent Wine 

Currant Wine 
^j Gooseberry Wine 
^^^1 Mulberry Wine 
'^"^ Raspberry Wine 

I Damson Wine 

I Orange Wine 

liemon W ine 

Grape Wine 
rjr,,,' Cherry Wine 
'^"-' ' Elder W^ine 

Apricot Wine 

Quince Wine 

Blackberry Wine 

Turnip Wine 

Birch Wine 

Rose Wine 

Ginger Wine 

Balm Wine 

Mead Wine 



CHAPTER XXY. 

To keep Green Peas till 

Christmas 
Tc keep Gooseberries 
To keep Mushrooms 
To bottle Damsons 



3031 

ib. 
304 

ib. 
305 

ib. 
306 

ib. 
307j 

'^ Raspberry Brandy 
[Orange Brandy 
j Lemon Brandy 
Black Cherry Brandy 



lb. 



309 
ib. 



Page 
312 
ib. 
ib. 
313 
ib 
ib 
ib. 



314 

ib. 
315 

ib. 
316 

ib. 

ib. 
317 

ib. 
318 

ib. 
319 

ib. 

II). 

e2o 

ib. 
321 

ib. 
322 

ib. 

ib. 
323 

ib. 
324 

ib. 



CHAPTER XXY HI. 

CORDIAL jrATERS. 

.Rose Water 324 

^.^,^ I Lavender Water 325 

'''^•jPeppermint Water ib. 

Surfeit Water ib. 



CHAPTER XXV L 

POSSETS arvl GRUELS. 
Sack Possets 31 1 

Wine Po^et 312 

Ale Posset 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Section 1. 
THE ART OF BREIFING. 

328 



ib. On the Copper, &c. 



Vessels for Brewing 

Skction 3. , 

The Mash-tub, Penstrff, &c. 329 1 

Section 4. i 

Of the proper time of Brew 



Page; Skctiow \ 

327iOf Bjtf ing Ma.t Liquors 
^To PrcLerve Yeast 



CHAPTER XXX. 



ing 



332 



Section 5. 
Water proper for Brewing 

Section 6. 
The Quality of the Malt and 
Hops 

Skction 7. 
The process of Brewing 

Section 8. 

The proper Mf;"vagemcnt of 
"" Lio'--A 341 



^ , i DIR E C TIONS for TR Uf 

' POULTRY, ^c. 

Turkeys 

Fowls 

Chickens 

Geese 
334I Pigeons 

iAVildFowl 



oog; Pheasants avi Partridgor 
I Woodcocks t ad Snipes 



I Larks 
Hares 
Rabbits 



Pig, 

342 
345 



JNG 

346 
348 

ib. 
349 

ib. 
350 

ib. 
351 

ib. 

lb. 



•ca V 



2 195^ 






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